OWNER hsumeet (400E)

[Kyiv]

Will 215/55r16 be okay? Or should I stick to the 205/65r16 size,

Original size was 195/65 R15. 205/55 R16 will give you a 0.4% smaller overall wheel+tire diameter, so your speedometer will read just about accurately. A 215/55 R16 is 1.3% larger in diameter, so your speedo will be 1.3% off. With 215/55 R16 you'll have a tad more sidewall, so the ride will be more compliant. Both of these sizes 205/55R16 and 215/55R16 are approved by the German TUV for 400E which is next highest authority that there is, after @gsxr

With your current size of 205/65 R16 your speedo is off by 6+ percent, so you were going close to 130 mph and not 120 mph Aim for V or W speed rated tires

Use this nifty tool to help with visualization Tire Size Calculator - Compare Tire Sizes | Tacoma World

 

[gsxr]

Ditto what kiev said. ^^^

Buy the tires from a shop with a Hunter Road Force balancer, tell them to set it for "best balance" which will put wheel weights inside AND outside.*** Ask the shop to write the RoadForce number on the back of each wheel or tire. Max allowed for passenger cars is 26 lbs, above that you may have vibration. If any are above the limit, the machine can measure for a bent wheel, which is another possibility. If the wheel is straight, the machine will tell the operator to rotate the tire relative to the wheel to help improve the balance.

*** Many tire shops automatically assume you don't want wheel weights visible, and will either set the balancer to only use a single weight in the center of the barrel. A competent shop can set the machine to use adhesive weights placed inside behind the spokes, where they are not visible, but offer a better balance than the single-center-weight method. This is close to, but not quite as good as, weights at both outer edges. All of this won't matter at the 85mph max speeds allowed in USA, but since you are making trips south of the border and cruising at 120, you want it dead smooth.

 

[Kyiv]

Only other problem starting now is that it will cut out sometimes when driving (like limp mode?) and I can hear the fuel pump buzzing pretty loud after driving for a few minutes.

I think your car does not have ASR(?) Check your LH module (fuel injection computer) for leaked capacitors. Good to have spare on hand for troubleshooting. Check "for sale" section, @gerryvz has one for sale or search eBay.

LH Module cross Test and Repair - Capacitor replacement | Electrical, CAN and Wiring

First, I have to say this forum is very good that I didn't seen before. Everyone share know-how and help each other. Some information I got from here and help me a lot. Today, share some information about my LH module repair and cross test with W140 M119 93' LH module. My car is 1992 EURO 500E...

www.500eboard.co

As far the fuel pumps, my replacement Bosch pumps (are 6 years old now) used to, sometimes, make loud buzzing noise. I stopped putting fuel system cleaners and it went away. It's weird. If your pumps look original, likely it's a good idea to replace them just in case. Here's how my pumps would occasionally sound

 

[Kyiv]

Buy the tires from a shop with a Hunter Road Force balancer, tell them to set it for "best balance" which will put wheel weights inside AND outside.*** Ask the shop to write the RoadForce number on the back of each wheel or tire.

I just had an MB dealer put on new tires on the 16x7 Euro wheels. Asked a service advisor to find out what the roardforce number in pounds was for each wheel. Upon picking them up, he informed me that 3 of the wheels took 25 grams to balance, and one took 40 grams.

Came home, wrote him an email, asking again (my accent is bad). Got the same answer about how many grams it took to balance each wheel

Wrote another email, explaining thoroughly what it is I'm actually asking, and SA went dark on me

*Technician used one weight on the inner edge and one on the outer, though

 

[gsxr]

kiev, while I'm not surprised, that is sad... are you certain the dealer has a Road Force balancer?

The amount of weight is not proportional to Road Force numbers, although of course less weight is generally better. I've also had wheels with a lot of weight be perfectly smooth.

 

[Kyiv]

are you certain the dealer has a Road Force balancer?

Hunter's website shows that this dealer has Hunter Elite machine. I think just about everyone of a more or less proper grade nowdays uses Hunter machines. I can't imagine an MB dealer using old-school balancer. I think SA just doesn't know what a Road Force number is and curiosity is not part of his job description

 

[hsumeet]

Oh my I forgot to turn my Waze on otherwise I would've known that my speed was off by that much. I saw an on-ramp and couldn't help myself. Previous owner maybe wasn't the best at upkeep so I'm keeping an eye out for anything else amiss that he replaced.

I'm thinking of ordering these tires:
4-215/55R16 Hankook Ventus V2 concept2 H457 97V XL Tires | eBay
They're budget tires until I can find a way to fit my old Monoblocks from the W208 on there, but hopefully not all too bad.

The shop I go to for my tire mounting and alignment (only things I don't care to do myself) I've trusted with my cars since I first started wrenching. They have the latest Hunter machine and I've never had any problems afterwards with shaking or my car not tracking straight but I will let them know to be very precise with the new baby. And they always give me all the numbers and what they put on each wheel after they've been mounted, balanced, and aligned.

My pumps sound a little more buzzing and louder, if that makes sense? Just never had to pay attention to the sound of pumps before but yes, it can't hurt to get new ones. And I hope it's not the module because I'm incapable of dealing with circuitry. I unfortunately ordered one from eBay that matches my exact part number before I got the full hang of the For Sale section. Still waiting on that and regretting I didn't bombard this forum first...

The painting, correction, and ceramic coating starts next week

I really can't thank y'all enough for all the help and info you've provided. Big turn around from the toxicity I've encountered in the car scene and other forums when someone who doesn't know something about a new platform has questions or concerns about their car. Y'all are the best

 

[Kyiv]

And I hope it's not the module because I'm incapable of dealing with circuitry.

Just open it up - it's easy - and see if any of the 6 capacitors have leaked


You can buy needed capacitors on Amazon or elsewhere on the internet. You need x3 of each, and have a computer repair shop solder them for you. That's what I did. Cost me $40-50 + cost of capacitors

• 100uf / 50V
• 22uf / 50V

By the way, if you put LH module from the 1992 400E (0145451532) into your 93 car, you'll gain about 10 horsepower at the wheels at full throttle. Search the forum for more info

 

[hsumeet]

Just open it up - it's easy - and see if any of the 6 capacitors have leaked
View attachment 125118

You can buy needed capacitors on Amazon or elsewhere on the internet. You need x3 of each, and have a computer repair shop solder them for you. That's what I did. Cost me $40-50 + cost of capacitors

• 100uf / 50V
• 22uf / 50V

By the way, if you put LH module from the 1992 400E (0145451532) into your 93 car, you'll gain about 10 horsepower at the wheels at full throttle. Search the forum for more info

Found one for $125 about 3 hours away from me and I don't think I've ever been this excited for a potential extra 10-15hp

 

[Kyiv]

Found one for $125 about 3 hours away from me and I don't think I've ever been this excited for a potential extra 10-15hp

When you receive and install, make sure to reset its adaptation value so that the LH module starts to adapt to your car from the neutral value. You need a blink code reader for this

To reset LH module :

1. Read and clear all fault codes
2. After display of 1 (No faults present) short the diagnostic plug (pin 8 for 16 pin diagnostic socket, pin 4 for 38 pin diagnostic socket) to ground for 6 to 8 seconds
3. Switch ignition off and wait at least 5 seconds
4. Turn ignition on, wait minimum of 10 seconds then restart engine.

 

[hsumeet]

When you receive and install, make sure to reset its adaptation value so that the LH module starts to adapt to your car from the neutral value. You need a blink code reader for this

To reset LH module :

1. Read and clear all fault codes
2. After display of 1 (No faults present) short the diagnostic plug (pin 8 for 16 pin diagnostic socket, pin 4 for 38 pin diagnostic socket) to ground for 6 to 8 seconds
3. Switch ignition off and wait at least 5 seconds
4. Turn ignition on, wait minimum of 10 seconds then restart engine.

Thank you sir! I would've been lost on so many levels without you. There appears to be another one listed for sale for $140 in Van Nuys, CA with the correct part number provided by Mr. Kiev.

1992 Engine Computer Mercedes 400

014 545 15 32 READY TO SHIP

X​

557

$140​

Raymer Auto Parts USA-CA(Van-Nuys) Request_Quote 818-458-5662

I hope I did that right.

 

[Kyiv]

@gerryvz, have you already sold 92 LH module with WOT for 400E?

@hsumeet, have you already ordered yours?

 

[gerryvz]

@gerryvz, have you already sold 92 LH module with WOT for 400E?

@hsumeet, have you already ordered yours?

No, I haven't.

 

[gsxr]

Remember that any used module will need to be tested in the car, for the relay-clicking issue. If it clicks, the capacitors will need replacement as @kiev described in prior posts.

 

[Kyiv]

No, I haven't

@hsumeet

 

[hsumeet]

No, I haven't.

Wow I thought someone had said they had bought it. "Good as sold" if I remember then writing. I'm about to turn around from this drive if I could buy it @gerryvz?

 

[gsxr]

Link to Gerry's ad:

FOR SALE - LH Fuel Injection Computer from 1992 400E, $120 shipped | Parts for Sale - **400E / E420 ONLY**

I have for sale an LH computer from a 1992 400E. I installed it in my E500 and it started the car and idled just fine, although I did not drive the car, as a 400E computer in an E500E is not correct. Ideal to have as a spare unit, if you own an early 400E. This LH unit will work fine with ASR...

www.500eboard.co

 

[hsumeet]

Link to Gerry's ad:

FOR SALE - LH Fuel Injection Computer from 1992 400E, $120 shipped | Parts for Sale - **400E / E420 ONLY**

I have for sale an LH computer from a 1992 400E. I installed it in my E500 and it started the car and idled just fine, although I did not drive the car, as a 400E computer in an E500E is not correct. Ideal to have as a spare unit, if you own an early 400E. This LH unit will work fine with ASR...

www.500eboard.co

Thank you!

 

[hsumeet]

Okay so I got a module and before I put it in I decided to open it up and make sure everything looking good. Is everything supposed to be covered in a clear gel like material?

 

[Kyiv]

Okay so I got a module and before I put it in I decided to open it up and make sure everything looking good. Is everything supposed to be covered in a clear gel like material?

yes, that's normal.

 

[LWB250]

Okay so I got a module and before I put it in I decided to open it up and make sure everything looking good. Is everything supposed to be covered in a clear gel like material?

Conformal coating. Sprayed on the board to protect it once it's assembled.

Dan

 

[hsumeet]

I was worried I had been taken for a spin by the import junkers
The butt dyno has been very happy with this module change! Went back to the old module and maybe it's all in my head but didn't feel as peppy.

Since most sense of budget has gone out the window for this car already, I'm going with fresh Bilstein shocks paired with H&R 29659-2 springs. The pairing has been great on the other German in the family.

A lot pricier than I'm used to but I'm also looking at this to mitigate the slight body roll I've been experiencing:

1992-1994 Mercedes-Benz Stabilizer Bar 124-323-72-65 | MB OEM Parts

Please proceed to tear me a new one on my choices

 

[gsxr]

Be careful with the lowering springs. It may end up lower than you want. An alignment is required afterwards, so you'll also want to complete ALL suspension/steering work at the same time, and only pay for one dealer alignment (usually $175-$200). Don't go to the lifetime-alignment places, or anywhere besides the dealer, unless they align dozens of Mercedes every month. Ask about the spreader bar (search the forum), if the shop or dealer doesn't know what you are talking about, walk away.

I wouldn't pay that much for the 500E sway bar. Contact Blue Ridge MB for a set of their custom bars, front & rear. Without SLS, installing the rear bar is much easier. You may want to replace the rear subframe bushings (probably toast, post photos)... and most of the steering links if they aren't recent.

If you want less body roll and/or will be lowering, use Bilstein Sport struts/shocks, or factory Sportline. Also consider factory Sportline springs instead of H&R. Search the forum, maybe chat with @a777fan who is working on this upgrade.

 

[Kyiv]

I have replaced all 10 rear suspension links + 2 rear sway bar links + 4 subframe bushings with borderline amazing results, despite all links being appearing tight and subframe bushings coming out intact. That's just my experience, you mileage may vary.

If your wheel carrier bushings haven't been replaced, they most definitely way overdue. This kit from FCP euro contains 8 of the 10 rear suspension links and x2 carrier bushings. The other 2 links and rear sway bar drop links you can get from Mercedes. This info is just a food for thought. Obviously you decide what gets prioritized

Mercedes Rear Control Arm Kit - Lemforder W124RSKIT

Mercedes Rear Control Arm Kit - Lemforder W124RSKIT

www.fcpeuro.com

 

[Kyiv]

Contact Blue Ridge MB

It's owner(?) is an active forum member here (@jhodg5ck). For phone number just google 'Blue Ridge MB"

 

[hsumeet]

I'm going to hold off on the sway bar and wait to put on the springs until I hear back from Mr. Hodgman. They're not too far away (relatively speaking) and I wouldn't mind a roadtrip to put more miles behind the wheel. I've ordered that kit @kiev suggested and a few other bit and pieces I found to be in unacceptable condition if I want everything to be nice and new (tie rods, subframe bushings, etc.)

I replaced the fuel pumps, after spilling a quarter tank of gas on myself, and the new ones are much quieter.

I thought that would be the last of the worries but while I'm driving the throttle will suddenly cut out. Like I'm accelerating and then I have absolutely nothing. No response from pressing on the go pedal, then like 5% it starts to raise the revs after freaking out and pressing the pedal multiple times, and then suddenly back to normal. I've tried pulling codes after the initial clearing and then driving it around but no more than 1 blinking light on every module. I'm very lost.

Any ideas?

 

[gsxr]

I'm going to hold off on the sway bar and wait to put on the springs until I hear back from Mr. Hodgman. They're not too far away (relatively speaking) and I wouldn't mind a roadtrip to put more miles behind the wheel. I've ordered that kit @kiev suggested and a few other bit and pieces I found to be in unacceptable condition if I want everything to be nice and new (tie rods, subframe bushings, etc.)

If you are doing the rear subframe job, do EVERYTHING. Don't forget the lower wheel carrier joint, and do all four of the main subframe-to-body mounts. OE/OEM preferred, Lemforder is acceptable. The only items I'd consider leaving alone are the diff mounts if they appear ok visually; front is NLA but the W210 mounts may work (see recent posts on this). The rears are a bit of a chore and may require subframe removal.

I replaced the fuel pumps, after spilling a quarter tank of gas on myself, and the new ones are much quieter.

Nice. If you heard a difference, the old ones were on their way out.

I thought that would be the last of the worries but while I'm driving the throttle will suddenly cut out. Like I'm accelerating and then I have absolutely nothing. No response from pressing on the go pedal, then like 5% it starts to raise the revs after freaking out and pressing the pedal multiple times, and then suddenly back to normal. I've tried pulling codes after the initial clearing and then driving it around but no more than 1 blinking light on every module. I'm very lost. Any ideas?

That is odd. Maybe fuel pumps? (kidding!) Seriously, I'm not quite sure since your car is non-ASR. If there is no misfiring and it's just a loss of power that is intermittent, and fuel pumps are new... have you replaced the crank sensor yet? In rare cases, that can cause some truly bizarre behavior, with no fault codes.

Check the date code on the ETA as well. I didn't think the non-ASR ETA would cause throttle issues as you describe though. But all my cars have ASR and I don't have experience with non-ASR symptoms. How often is this happening where there's no power despite pounding the pedal on & off?

 

[hsumeet]

If you are doing the rear subframe job, do EVERYTHING. Don't forget the lower wheel carrier joint, and do all four of the main subframe-to-body mounts. OE/OEM preferred, Lemforder is acceptable. The only items I'd consider leaving alone are the diff mounts if they appear ok visually; front is NLA but the W210 mounts may work (see recent posts on this). The rears are a bit of a chore and may require subframe removal.



Nice. If you heard a difference, the old ones were on their way out.



That is odd. Maybe fuel pumps? (kidding!) Seriously, I'm not quite sure since your car is non-ASR. If there is no misfiring and it's just a loss of power that is intermittent, and fuel pumps are new... have you replaced the crank sensor yet? In rare cases, that can cause some truly bizarre behavior, with no fault codes.

Check the date code on the ETA as well. I didn't think the non-ASR ETA would cause throttle issues as you describe though. But all my cars have ASR and I don't have experience with non-ASR symptoms. How often is this happening where there's no power despite pounding the pedal on & off?

Lower wheel carrier joint, added to the list! The diff mounts thankfully still look like they're new. Surprising a lot better than my other cars so I guess I may have lucked out on one thing at least.

I haven't replaced the crank sensor yet but I thought that I would have starting issues in regard to that? It starts up so perfect, idles beautifully, runs perfect for 30-45 minutes and then when I start to think everything is good, intermittent power loss begins.

And once it starts, it happens more frequently until I don't want to risk getting hit if it cuts out mid-pulling out into an intersection. Once I get the throttle back it won't rev past 4500 rpm either. I was thinking some sort of fueling issue, maybe the FPR? But it doesn't have fuel in the line. I wish I could throw you the keys for a week and have at it. Runs so nice before the problem begins

 

[sheward]

I'm not capable of assisting with your power loss issue however when you get it worked out I recommend you make that road trip here to Georgia and visit Johnathans' shop. A smorgasbord for W124 enthusiasts.
I have a non ASR ETA that I can provide cheap should you need.

drew

 

[hsumeet]

I'm not capable of assisting with your power loss issue however when you get it worked out I recommend you make that road trip here to Georgia and visit Johnathans' shop. A smorgasbord for W124 enthusiasts.
I have a non ASR ETA that I can provide cheap should you need.

drew

Thank you Drew! I can't find the date code for the ETA, where exactly should I be looking? The wires all feel nice but knowing my luck they'll still be bad. Wouldn't be bad to have an extra just in case. How do we go about this, PayPal? Not experienced in such things besides google and buying on websites. I can't wait for trips in this car, takes me back to a simpler time. After the 8 hours to get out of Texas I'll be looking forward to meeting with fellow enthusiasts and picking y'alls brains in person

 

[Kyiv]

Lower wheel carrier joint, added to the list!

If you've ordered the control arm kit from the FCP link, then that kit already includes x2 wheel carrier joints (one per reach side). I have a special tool needed to install them and can lend it to you. I also have a special torx wrench needed to install rear suspension links.

Check the date code on the ETA as well

My car is also a 93 without ASR and I believe our throttle bodies are not affected by the biodegradable wiring, unlike ASR ones. I spliced the sheathing on mine some time ago and insulation in wires looked intact


As to the power cutting out after driving for a while. This is only a guessing on my part, but it probably is something electrical. As your car warms up, some electrical part goes out of spec due to a change in temperature. I've only clearly experienced this once - power cutoff for a brief moment (+/- 1 second) at full throttle in the upper RPM, at a freeway speed. The were several other times were I wasn't sure if the power cut off was real or just in my head. I found and replaced leaked capacitors in the LH module and that took care of it. It has been about 2 years ago. However, in your case, same issue occurs in the exact same manner and frequency across 2 different LH modules with intact capacitors (per your inspection), right?

I haven't had an issue with crank sensor, so can't share a personal experience, but after 27 years it's due for a replacement in your and my cases

 

[gsxr]

Thank you Drew! I can't find the date code for the ETA, where exactly should I be looking? The wires all feel nice but knowing my luck they'll still be bad. Wouldn't be bad to have an extra just in case. How do we go about this, PayPal? Not experienced in such things besides google and buying on websites. I can't wait for trips in this car, takes me back to a simpler time. After the 8 hours to get out of Texas I'll be looking forward to meeting with fellow enthusiasts and picking y'alls brains in person

Datecode decoder below. Non-ASR ETA's will have a green label. Pre-facelift ETA's may all have good wiring, but internal components can wear out. Make sure a donor is both non-ASR and also has the matching connector, pre/post facelift connectors are different.

@sheward , is your spare a later-datecode unit?

 

[gsxr]

I haven't replaced the crank sensor yet but I thought that I would have starting issues in regard to that? It starts up so perfect, idles beautifully, runs perfect for 30-45 minutes and then when I start to think everything is good, intermittent power loss begins.

Sooooo.... 99.99% of the time, a failing crank sensor either results in a persistent no-start condition, OR the engine dies just as it warms up to operating temp, and won't re-start until it cools, then dies when warm again (lather, rinse, repeat).

The remaining 0.01% of the time, in what seems to be freak circumstances, a crank sensor can result in some really bizarre behavior including a massive loss of power. Click here for the saga. See post #76-#81 (link) for details. I recently encountered this and it made the car nearly undrivable when the problem randomly occurred. Took me forever to figure it out, too.

And once it starts, it happens more frequently until I don't want to risk getting hit if it cuts out mid-pulling out into an intersection. Once I get the throttle back it won't rev past 4500 rpm either. I was thinking some sort of fueling issue, maybe the FPR? But it doesn't have fuel in the line. I wish I could throw you the keys for a week and have at it. Runs so nice before the problem begins

Won't rev past 4500rpm... that is odd. Are you certain there are no codes? Any change if you move the shifter to 3 or 2 instead of D? If the FPR is original it's cheap insurance, but that typically causes hot start problems when it fails, and/or would show incorrect rail pressures when testing at idle. Pretty likely your 4500rpm limit is not related to the FPR.

 

[sheward]

I have two and I believe they are both later units. I'll check after dinner. I just replaced a faulty ETA in another M119. A 2010 unit with good wire.

drew

 

[gsxr]

I have two and I believe they are both later units. I'll check after dinner. I just replaced a faulty ETA in another M119. A 2010 unit with good wire.

drew

Drew, do you mean you had a 2010 unit with good wiring fail? Or was that the good unit you installed?

I also just replaced one (ASR car) that was causing all sorts of crazy throttle problems, but ZERO fault codes. Old datecode unit with bad wires, but it was the first time I've had one not throw a single code. Replacement late-datecode ETA has cured the problems.

 

[hsumeet]

If you've ordered the control arm kit from the FCP link, then that kit already includes x2 wheel carrier joints (one per reach side). I have a special tool needed to install them and can lend it to you. I also have a special torx wrench needed to install rear suspension links.


My car is also a 93 without ASR and I believe our throttle bodies are not affected by the biodegradable wiring, unlike ASR ones. I spliced the sheathing on mine some time ago and insulation in wires looked intact
View attachment 125548

As to the power cutting out after driving for a while. This is only a guessing on my part, but it probably is something electrical. As your car warms up, some electrical part goes out of spec due to a change in temperature. I've only clearly experienced this once - power cutoff for a brief moment (+/- 1 second) at full throttle in the upper RPM, at a freeway speed. The were several other times were I wasn't sure if the power cut off was real or just in my head. I found and replaced leaked capacitors in the LH module and that took care of it. It has been about 2 years ago. However, in your case, same issue occurs in the exact same manner and frequency across 2 different LH modules with intact capacitors (per your instruction), right?

I haven't had an issue with crank sensor, so can't share a personal experience, but after 27 years it's due for a replacement in your and my cases

Ohhhh since the wheel carrier joint wasn't labeled as such I'm over here searching like a tard. Is the special tool the bushing installer? Because I have that from installing bushings in the other Mercs. And I though I had all the Torx tools by now but is there another one I don't know of?

I've ordered the capacitors you mentioned earlier and hopefully they'll be here by tomorrow so I can have a computer shop install them for me. The WOT module had caps that looked swollen and the original looked like someone already replaced them. I'll try to get a picture of both once I get back from work.

Datecode decoder below. Non-ASR ETA's will have a green label. Pre-facelift ETA's may all have good wiring, but internal components can wear out. Make sure a donor is both non-ASR and also has the matching connector, pre/post facelift connectors are different.

@sheward , is your spare a later-datecode unit?

View attachment 125550

My numbers have all faded, I could barely see that the label is green. If I had to place a wager, I think that's the problem because of the no throttle response and jerkiness at starting from a stop at times.

Sooooo.... 99.99% of the time, a failing crank sensor either results in a persistent no-start condition, OR the engine dies just as it warms up to operating temp, and won't re-start until it cools, then dies when warm again (lather, rinse, repeat).

The remaining 0.01% of the time, in what seems to be freak circumstances, a crank sensor can result in some really bizarre behavior including a massive loss of power. Click here for the saga. See post #76-#81 (link) for details. I recently encountered this and it made the car nearly undrivable when the problem randomly occurred. Took me forever to figure it out, too.




Won't rev past 4500rpm... that is odd. Are you certain there are no codes? Any change if you move the shifter to 3 or 2 instead of D? If the FPR is original it's cheap insurance, but that typically causes hot start problems when it fails, and/or would show incorrect rail pressures when testing at idle. Pretty likely your 4500rpm limit is not related to the FPR.

Is this the correct CPS? I might as well replace it because it also looks like the original piece and I don't want to risk a no start.

Mercedes Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor - Genuine Mercedes 0021531328

Mercedes Engine Crankshaft Position Sensor - Genuine Mercedes 0021531328

www.fcpeuro.com

I took the car to work because I wanted to test my fixing the odometer and it ran perfectly, besides the constant fear of no power. Got the numbers turning so I can finally keep track of everything. I'll try to pull codes again since it will have run another 100 miles from the last time I cleared them. And I try shifting down into 3 and then 2 when it happened and I was slowing down but nada. Just randomly comes back on power no matter what gear I'm in after mashing the throttle a couple of times. After the first time it cuts out I can't get it to accelerate properly and rev high enough, and the pedal feels like there's no pressure behind it?

I thought I was driving her too hard maybe so I drove nice and gentle. That helped for a little bit but after a loop around the city it happened again on the highway and I had to get out of the way to avoid getting hit. Then suddenly fine again and continued back home. It's never stalled or come to a complete stop, as of yet.

 

[hsumeet]

Or this one?

Mercedes Crankshaft Position Sensor - OE Supplier 0031534928

Mercedes Crankshaft Position Sensor - OE Supplier 0031534928

www.fcpeuro.com

 

[Kyiv]

Is the special tool the bushing installer?

This is the one. SIR Tools M0085 MERCEDES METAL CLAD BUSHING R&R KIT | Tool Discounter

I though I had all the Torx tools by now but is there another one I don't know of?

see post #13. Tools for rear suspension R&R | Brakes, Suspension and Steering

Is this the correct CPS?

Always use XENTRY for correct part#. Reading your thread, I got interested in CPK too

 

[gsxr]

Or this one?

Mercedes Crankshaft Position Sensor - OE Supplier 0031534928

Mercedes Crankshaft Position Sensor - OE Supplier 0031534928

www.fcpeuro.com

That is the correct crank sensor, at the rear. The front one you can ignore, it's for diagnostics only and has no connection to the engine computers.

FCP and AHAZ all show "OEM Supplier" with no brand name for $100 and $65 respectively. RME is selling Hella, made in Spain, for $70. OE is ~$200 discount. (!) I am curious what brand FCP and AHAZ have, and what the COO is...

 

[Kyiv]

Dave, so the one from my post above is a "front" crank sensor? (Part number from FCP link doesn't match XENTRY)

 

[sheward]

Drew, do you mean you had a 2010 unit with good wiring fail? Or was that the good unit you installed?

I also just replaced one (ASR car) that was causing all sorts of crazy throttle problems, but ZERO fault codes. Old datecode unit with bad wires, but it was the first time I've had one not throw a single code. Replacement late-datecode ETA has cured the problems.

Yes, the unit that failed was rebuilt in 2010 by Dan Roden and had good wiring. It was causing uneven idle and limp mode.

drew

 

[gsxr]

Dave, so the one from my post above is a "front" crank sensor? (Part number from FCP link doesn't match XENTRY)

Your Xentry data is correct! See below. 0031534928 or 0031535028.

Mercedes Crankshaft Position Sensor - OE Supplier 0031534928

Mercedes Crankshaft Position Sensor - OE Supplier 0031534928

www.fcpeuro.com

 

[gsxr]

Yes, the unit that failed was rebuilt in 2010 by Dan Roden and had good wiring. It was causing uneven idle and limp mode.

drew

Drew, that is a bummer! How many miles were on it? Would be interesting to send it back to Don for a post-mortem, to find out what internal component failed. I assume it was an original 1992-95 production unit that was rebuilt in 2010 by Don?

 

[sheward]

Thank you Drew! I can't find the date code for the ETA, where exactly should I be looking? The wires all feel nice but knowing my luck they'll still be bad. Wouldn't be bad to have an extra just in case. How do we go about this, PayPal? Not experienced in such things besides google and buying on websites. I can't wait for trips in this car, takes me back to a simpler time. After the 8 hours to get out of Texas I'll be looking forward to meeting with fellow enthusiasts and picking y'alls brains in person

Both of the ETAs I have are early pancake plug style. One has a date code from 1998. The other is illegible. Both came from known properly running cars. If your car has a pancake connector and you decide you want to try an ETA I will send you one for $140.00 shipped. You could also send yours to Dan Roden for rebuilding. I recently read that the cost is a bit under $400.00. Paypal would be fine should you go that route.

drew

 

[sheward]

Drew, that is a bummer! How many miles were on it? Would be interesting to send it back to Don for a post-mortem, to find out what internal component failed. I assume it was an original 1992-95 production unit that was rebuilt in 2010 by Don?

It was on an R129 I purchased recently and working at the time of purchase so nothing lost on my end so to speak. I intend to send it back to Don to be rebuilt as a spare so I'll find out what failed. Difficult to know how many miles were run on it due to incomplete records and a non functioning odometer in the SL.

drew

 

[hsumeet]

This is the one. SIR Tools M0085 MERCEDES METAL CLAD BUSHING R&R KIT | Tool Discounter



see post #13. Tools for rear suspension R&R | Brakes, Suspension and Steering


Always use XENTRY for correct part#. Reading your thread, I got interested in CPK too

View attachment 125555

I didnt want to login to the site from work, but I'd knew you would send me in the right direction @kiev

 

[hsumeet]

Both of the ETAs I have are early pancake plug style. One has a date code from 1998. The other is illegible. Both came from known properly running cars. If your car has a pancake connector and you decide you want to try an ETA I will send you one for $140.00 shipped. You could also send yours to Dan Roden for rebuilding. I recently read that the cost is a bit under $400.00. Paypal would be fine should you go that route.

drew

Sorry for sounding like a moron but what is the pancake style and what other style plug could I possibly have? The more I think about it the more I'm convinced the problem is throttle body related. Thank you @sheward !

 

[sheward]

Not at all. The connector on the end of the ETA that plugs into the car came in two flavors, early and late. Early is a larger round cap or pancake shape about the size of a silver dollar. Late style is a smaller round cylinder about the size of a quarter. If you do a search for "ETA plug" you should find plenty of pics and info.

drew

 

[Kyiv]

what is the pancake style and what other style plug could I possibly have?

See post #5

Good or bad ETA? | Electrical, CAN and Wiring

I have a chance to buy a set of ETA VDO p/n 0001418925 and MAF Bosch p/n 0280214004 at a very reasonable price, both removed from 1994 Euro R129 with M119 engine. I'm pretty sure they will fit .036 car but are they worth of considering as spares? I'm particularly worried about ETA and condition...

www.500eboard.co

If and when you'll be replacing your throttle body, unless previously changed, you'll definitely will need to replace this rubber duct between the MAF and the throttle body, so better have it handy

 

[gsxr]

More photos at the link below. I need to add some pics and more annotations...

http://www.w124performance.com/images/M119/ETA/