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FYI Electronic Throttle Actuator (ETA) Rebuild

If the ETA has not yet been rebuilt, that is most likely the root cause of the idling issues. Do you know the age of the ETA (date code), and if it's original?




The instrument cluster is discrete and completely separated from all engine management systems. If you lost all instruments, that indicates a power supply issue - need to inspect/clean all fuse ends/sockets, check battery terminals, maybe the ignition switch, check fuses in the BM/GM, etc. Check the FSM schematics for the instruments if needed. Loss of instruments will not be related to ETA/E-GAS, but the ABS/ASR lights would come on if the module lost power.




124-545-26-32 is correct for an early 500E outside of USA. An alternate number would be 124-545-44-32, this is for later 036 but is interchangeable. I don't know why the North American cars have different E-GAS numbers, how they are different, or if these are interchangeable with ROW modules.



1. I haven't seen that before. Not sure how to clean it. Also don't know if it's affecting the E-GAS functionality or if it's strictly cosmetic.
2. VERY few places repair, or claim to repair, E-GAS modules. Beckmann in USA said they could do it, but cost was over $1k last I checked.
3. eBay would be the primary alternate source, just make sure the seller accepts returns, or better yet has tested the unit and guarantees it's functioning correctly. Some eBay sellers claim a module is good/tested when they've done absolutely nothing to check it.

Before shelling out $$$$ for E-GAS repair/replacement, try sourcing one from a 140 chassis as mentioned previously and see if that magically cures all your woes. Once you confirm the E-GAS is actually faulty, then worry about repair/replacement. I have a NOS unit available but it's for North American cars, I'm not certain what the difference is with ROW.

:gsxrepc:
Thanks for your always valuable thoughts. I'll come back with a more considered reply, but for now I'll flag possible interest in your e-GAS module.
 
If the ETA has not yet been rebuilt, that is most likely the root cause of the idling issues. Do you know the age of the ETA (date code), and if it's original?




The instrument cluster is discrete and completely separated from all engine management systems. If you lost all instruments, that indicates a power supply issue - need to inspect/clean all fuse ends/sockets, check battery terminals, maybe the ignition switch, check fuses in the BM/GM, etc. Check the FSM schematics for the instruments if needed. Loss of instruments will not be related to ETA/E-GAS, but the ABS/ASR lights would come on if the module lost power.




124-545-26-32 is correct for an early 500E outside of USA. An alternate number would be 124-545-44-32, this is for later 036 but is interchangeable. I don't know why the North American cars have different E-GAS numbers, how they are different, or if these are interchangeable with ROW modules.



1. I haven't seen that before. Not sure how to clean it. Also don't know if it's affecting the E-GAS functionality or if it's strictly cosmetic.
2. VERY few places repair, or claim to repair, E-GAS modules. Beckmann in USA said they could do it, but cost was over $1k last I checked.
3. eBay would be the primary alternate source, just make sure the seller accepts returns, or better yet has tested the unit and guarantees it's functioning correctly. Some eBay sellers claim a module is good/tested when they've done absolutely nothing to check it.

Before shelling out $$$$ for E-GAS repair/replacement, try sourcing one from a 140 chassis as mentioned previously and see if that magically cures all your woes. Once you confirm the E-GAS is actually faulty, then worry about repair/replacement. I have a NOS unit available but it's for North American cars, I'm not certain what the difference is with ROW.

:gsxrepc:
My fuller response to your questions and thoughts is:

  1. Age/originality of ETA: I'm not 100% certain but, based on the photo below, Victor at Restore Your Mercedes told me it is correct for the vehicle.
  2. Regarding the loss of instruments, the workshop checked over fuses and other potential causes. Whatever they did solved it for now.
  3. I agree the idling problem is most likely down to the ETA, so will probably pull it and send to Victor for testing and repair once we've eliminated any other problems - hence my current focus on the e-GAS module.
  4. e-Gas module compatibility - this site's Wiki indicates your NOS unit probably would work. The mechanic who looks after the car has a W140 500 so we'll try his e-GAS.
One other thing to note is that recently a unit that I believe is some sort of solenoid, located near the EZL, has started clicking intermittently when the car is stationary - see video linked here: IMG_2150.MOV

When it is silent, the engine will sometimes idle correctly, The moment the clicking starts, the idle jumps to around 1000 rpm and fluctuates. I believe one of the vacuum lines going into this unit comes from the vacuum modulator on the transmission, and the other perhaps goes to the charcoal canister in line with the fuel tank venting. Do folks have any ideas about what might be causing this? I'm currently looking into getting a rebuilt trans from Sun Valley, and am also on the verge of getting every vacuum line replaced as part of fixing this idle issue.

Here's a link to a video of the offending unit:

I have a couple more questions for folks on this thread:
  1. Does anyone have experience of ECU repairs done by Welcome at ECU Repair Centre, your adres for repair of car electronics, like ABS, Cruise Control, Ignitions modules and many other ECU's ? And are there any other European businesses repairing Mercedes ECU modules that you are aware of/can recommend?
  2. Has anyone had Victor at Restore Your Mercedes repair an ETA? If so, could you please share your experience?
 

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  • ETA part no..jpg
    ETA part no..jpg
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Your ETA is dated 1991 per the label (91Mxx). If it's never been rebuilt, it's overdue. Part number is correct for a pre-facelift engine.

Clicking at the "MOT" valve next to the EZL is normal when at operating temperature, this is the purge valve for the carbon canister connected to the fuel system. It's burning off vapors. HOWEVER, the idle should not be affected - something is fishy here. There are only 2 plastic tubes, both 8mm, one from the carbon canister and the other goes to the engine intake. Totally separate from the transmission. IIRC the fitting at the intake manifold should have a restriction inside, if the wrong part is used, that might cause idle issues when the valve cycles (clicks)?

Definitely swap in the W140 E-GAS module and see if there is any change / improvement. If there's no change, your E-GAS may be fine, no need to repair/replace.

:rugby:
 
If you have that corrosion in the module, take a look at the diagnostic port. The pins are fairly prone to corrosion now.
Thanks - another thing to put on the list as we hunt down gremlins.
Your ETA is dated 1991 per the label (91Mxx). If it's never been rebuilt, it's overdue. Part number is correct for a pre-facelift engine.

Clicking at the "MOT" valve next to the EZL is normal when at operating temperature, this is the purge valve for the carbon canister connected to the fuel system. It's burning off vapors. HOWEVER, the idle should not be affected - something is fishy here. There are only 2 plastic tubes, both 8mm, one from the carbon canister and the other goes to the engine intake. Totally separate from the transmission. IIRC the fitting at the intake manifold should have a restriction inside, if the wrong part is used, that might cause idle issues when the valve cycles (clicks)?

Definitely swap in the W140 E-GAS module and see if there is any change / improvement. If there's no change, your E-GAS may be fine, no need to repair/replace.

:rugby:
Thanks Dave.
 
No, but their prices are insane... over $2000 USD (plus shipping) for a reconditioned ETA? At least they apply a shiny new replica label (minus any date code).

:crack:


 
I agree - those prices are super high. But I am interested in their repair service for €440

AH - thank you! I didn't see the repair option. That price is far more reasonable, if they replace the internal components which wear out, and don't just re-wire them.

From reading the description, it sounds like they do NOT proactively replace old components, they only replace them if already failed. Hrmmm. Not crazy about that concept:
We offer testing, repair (rewiring) and cleaning of your throttle valve that has been sent to us.
A separate calculation [GSXR edit- this means additional cost, right?] is made for e.g. the replacement of the clutch solenoid, for the repair of the potentiometer, repair/replacement of the electric motor of M104, M119, M120 throttle valves, replacement of missing components.
IMPORTANT NOTICE: The throttle valve sent to us is subjected to an incoming inspection for repairability. Only then will the repair and return take place.
:duck:

1708716066749.png
 
The feedback pot isone of the more common failure items from my expereince, and that was something I really liked about the guy in Alabama - he replaced the pot or major components of it to return it to like-new operation. That and I believe he road tested them, too.

Dan
 
Guys. Any further updates on a firm that rebuilds the throttle actuator?
Thanks!
 
Guys. Any further updates on a firm that rebuilds the throttle actuator?
Thanks!
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