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OWNER MY911S
- Thread starter MY911S
- Start date
Headlight switch panel icon indicator?
Looks like there's already a bulb in that location
AC vents?
Oh yeah much simpler with all that removed- found this pic online
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From many years ago when I was replacing the upper wiring harness:
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That's part of the NOS system. It's an RPM "window" switch, not related to the glass panes in the doors.
All part of the nitrous kit... if you are selling that, make sure it's complete or the buyer will have a real mess to sort out!
Thank you!
Headlamp switch area illumination?
After the show dived into- actually under the car and replaced Sauce's WALBRO pump and filter and went back to the dual setup.
Then tonight since wife went to bed early replaced all the spark plugs.
Quick question- does it matter what the orientation is of how the metallic piece is clocked relative to the pump outlet - for the fuel line that connects the 2 fuel pumps?
Then tonight since wife went to bed early replaced all the spark plugs.
Quick question- does it matter what the orientation is of how the metallic piece is clocked relative to the pump outlet - for the fuel line that connects the 2 fuel pumps?
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@MY911S,
Was that carshow in the Robinson Helicopters parking lot in Torrance.
BTW, I was in San Pedro w/ my wife Saturday and we ran across a huge car show down by the docks across from the yacht harbor. It was breaking up when we discovered it around 3:30 PM.
Yes it was. Interesting I wonder what the San Pedro event was. I go there a lot. We used to live there and aren't too far away.
Well darn. I got all the bits connected including running next door to pelican for a fuel pump cap nut Part #: 123-990-00-53-MBZ and the proper sized hose clamp size only to start the car and...nothing...doesn't turn over. The pumps aren't making any sound and I measured voltage at the terminals an 0 Volts. I assume that the Walbro pump has the same connections and it should measure 12 V between terminals? Any help appreciated. Might try to check for a short and access the relay and jump it next.
In actuality after watching this I'll video the startup and see if i have sound.
In actuality after watching this I'll video the startup and see if i have sound.
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Do you mean the starter doesn't engage? That's a different issue not related to the fuel pumps. Or do you mean it cranks but won't fire?
The fuel pumps will only run for 2 seconds when the key is turned on. The LH module triggers the relay below the rear seat. Remove the rear passenger seat cushion, you should hear the relay click on/off when the key is turned to position 2.
You can remove the relay and jumper the appropriate sockets to force the pumps to run. Don't mess up and jumper the wrong pins or you could damage the LH module. Only jump from +12V battery (#30) to the fuel pump feed (#87). Diagram at link below.
The fuel pumps will only run for 2 seconds when the key is turned on. The LH module triggers the relay below the rear seat. Remove the rear passenger seat cushion, you should hear the relay click on/off when the key is turned to position 2.
You can remove the relay and jumper the appropriate sockets to force the pumps to run. Don't mess up and jumper the wrong pins or you could damage the LH module. Only jump from +12V battery (#30) to the fuel pump feed (#87). Diagram at link below.
starter is turning over the engine. cranks but wont fire..anymore. it ran right before i replaced the pumps and the plugs. thanks guys i'll try the above. i stuck my phone under the car...didnt seem to hear any pump coming on at all at any time. Mercedes source also does it this way alternatively
oh sorry if i caused confusion - that's not my car---it's just a sample video--that shows what to listen to (pump sound that's working)
Yup, that is for the M120 V12, and yes it is for a 1993-95 S600.
Won't work with an M119 of course...
Any M119 V8 LH module can be used for testing, from any year/model with LH-SFI engine management (through 1995 USA model year).
The M120 V12 modules are designed to only control 6 cylinders (two modules are used to control all 12 cylinders) and these won't work on a V8 engine.
Crawled under the car to install these rubber plugs for the fuel pump terminals that finally arrived. Hopefully I can get the car off the ramps tomorrow.
Got some NIB lenses from Sauceman today so might be ready to put the headlights back on. Still deciding if I sell the existing Euro lights or just assemble and have a spare set.
Also need to figure out what bulbs they take.
Got some NIB lenses from Sauceman today so might be ready to put the headlights back on. Still deciding if I sell the existing Euro lights or just assemble and have a spare set.
Also need to figure out what bulbs they take.
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The plastic arrows are just a visual aid to line up the throttle vs transmission linkages (and, this can be tweaked to fine-tune upshifts/downshifts to your personal preference).
Throttle cable adjustment should NOT have any effect on idle speed! At idle the throttle cable should have zero tension on the linkage and the ETA lever should be fully at rest on the idle stop. Idle RPM is controlled electronically. If adjusted wrong you'll end up with limp mode where the first half of throttle pedal travel does nothing.
I'm not seeing any cracked piece. The plastic arrows are the tips of the metal brackets, see additional red arrows in screencap below.
These plastic tips should be aligned, which they are in your photo. See FSM step 5.1 also.
This is for the transmission control cable adjustment, NOT the throttle linkage to the ETA. Adjust turnbuckle / sliding linkage #2 to increase/decrease shift RPM's, but first you need to get idle speed normal, NOT be in limp mode, and have shift points normal-ish.
These plastic tips should be aligned, which they are in your photo. See FSM step 5.1 also.
This is for the transmission control cable adjustment, NOT the throttle linkage to the ETA. Adjust turnbuckle / sliding linkage #2 to increase/decrease shift RPM's, but first you need to get idle speed normal, NOT be in limp mode, and have shift points normal-ish.
Hmm I thought the arrows were as explained in this video
@gsxr Going back to my picture and the circled area - that black tab that looks to be broken in half is actually not a break? It looks like it. Here's a closeup.
Thanks for fixing the fsm link
@gsxr Going back to my picture and the circled area - that black tab that looks to be broken in half is actually not a break? It looks like it. Here's a closeup.
Thanks for fixing the fsm link
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Nope. That video is for the CIS-E engine, the throttle linkage is COMPLETLEY different vs LH-SFI. Basically nothing in that video applies to the 500E except the little black plastic rectangle he's replacing, which is the same/similar.
Now I think I understand. Those are two separate pieces, you are thinking it is 1 piece broken in half. Move the rearward piece with your finger and it might start to make sense. Those plastic tips should be lined up for the rough adjustment. In the photo, yours look ok, they are lined up within a mm or two? Can't quite tell from the angle of that photo.
Yeah, something in there is a typo / mistake. With the ignition on, if a second person presses the pedal to the floor (not kickdown), the throttle butterfly should be almost fully open.
With the ignition off, you are checking that the bellcrank on the ETA is resting against the WOT stop. This is the important part, at idle the ETA bellcrank must be resting on the idle stop, and at WOT it must rest on the WOT stop.
Phew what a relief. I should have put more faith in German Engineering than to assume that was per design
It's looking better. Car idles, a bit rough at the start, smooths out a little when warm BUT the big thing is shifts properly seemingly now. Drove to the gas station without stalling Thanks for the key tip @gsxr of checking the stops when at idle and the plastic arrows. I had to shorten the rod slightly about 1/8 of an inch.
Thanks for the key tip @gsxr of checking the stops when at idle and the plastic arrows. I had to shorten the rod slightly about 1/8 of an inch.
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Thank you!