Whats the plan on the supersprint? I am interested If you are willing to sell local
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Finally, an update for 2024.
For quite a while now I’ve had a horrendous idling issue when the car was cold. Once warmed up - all fine. The car would misfire, lunge forward and stumble under throttle. I never got clean WOT. I had always thought it might be moisture in the distributor caps as we did have some “wet” weather from time to time in the last few months but my car is always stored indoors - this was my experience driving a 500E in the UK.
I had managed to free myself up this morning and decided to take a look at the car. I had not had a look at the ignition system in circa 4 years or so. Upon initial inspection, all was well. There was a light misting of oil on the left distributor cap so I thought this could be the source of my idling woes. Whilst I’m in there, I thought I would dig deeper into the ignition system - I’ve never changed the rotor arms or ignition coils so a few more screws later the rotor arm was out.
To my shock, the rotor arm is cracked quite badly. That’s not the shocking part - THE PART IS FROM 1996. I do not have records for rotor arm replacement so I do genuinely think this is a part that was installed in this car, nearly 20yrs old. They certainly do not build them like they used to.
At the same time, I decided to replace the insulators, although I did not find any flaws with the originals, also dated 1996. Keeping those. I can only assume when my car was 2yrs old, it received a tune up and new components, potentially due to the owner complaining of misfires caused by moisture in the weather, in Japan.
Luckily I had a BERU rotor arm spare on the shelf (I.e hidden in depths of storage boxes) and I also had a pair of the new brackets to mount the bracket (N.B the newer rotor arms will not mount on the original bracket, unless you modify them), OEM is best.
One rotor arm and two insulators later and I can genuinely say my car has never run as good or as clean as it does now - leading me to the suspicion that I’ve had this issue for quite some time without realising it. These cars are built so well they can hide running issues so well.
I dread to think what would have happened if the rotor arm smashed to pieces in motion. The arm had also loosened bolts over the course of time, meaning it was a disaster waiting to happen - the definition of a ‘hot mess’ and this forum post would be very different if that happened!
I’ve got 2x MB rotor arms on order as well as power steering filter, dust filter, air filters, fuel filter and fluids. Thought I’d get the old girl serviced before the weather becomes unbearable in the Gulf. Enjoy the pics
Bonus : whilst out searching for rotor arms this afternoon (to no avail) I did have the pleasure of spotting two 036’s - a rare sight in 2024!
For quite a while now I’ve had a horrendous idling issue when the car was cold. Once warmed up - all fine. The car would misfire, lunge forward and stumble under throttle. I never got clean WOT. I had always thought it might be moisture in the distributor caps as we did have some “wet” weather from time to time in the last few months but my car is always stored indoors - this was my experience driving a 500E in the UK.
I had managed to free myself up this morning and decided to take a look at the car. I had not had a look at the ignition system in circa 4 years or so. Upon initial inspection, all was well. There was a light misting of oil on the left distributor cap so I thought this could be the source of my idling woes. Whilst I’m in there, I thought I would dig deeper into the ignition system - I’ve never changed the rotor arms or ignition coils so a few more screws later the rotor arm was out.
To my shock, the rotor arm is cracked quite badly. That’s not the shocking part - THE PART IS FROM 1996. I do not have records for rotor arm replacement so I do genuinely think this is a part that was installed in this car, nearly 20yrs old. They certainly do not build them like they used to.
At the same time, I decided to replace the insulators, although I did not find any flaws with the originals, also dated 1996. Keeping those. I can only assume when my car was 2yrs old, it received a tune up and new components, potentially due to the owner complaining of misfires caused by moisture in the weather, in Japan.
Luckily I had a BERU rotor arm spare on the shelf (I.e hidden in depths of storage boxes) and I also had a pair of the new brackets to mount the bracket (N.B the newer rotor arms will not mount on the original bracket, unless you modify them), OEM is best.
One rotor arm and two insulators later and I can genuinely say my car has never run as good or as clean as it does now - leading me to the suspicion that I’ve had this issue for quite some time without realising it. These cars are built so well they can hide running issues so well.
I dread to think what would have happened if the rotor arm smashed to pieces in motion. The arm had also loosened bolts over the course of time, meaning it was a disaster waiting to happen - the definition of a ‘hot mess’ and this forum post would be very different if that happened!
I’ve got 2x MB rotor arms on order as well as power steering filter, dust filter, air filters, fuel filter and fluids. Thought I’d get the old girl serviced before the weather becomes unbearable in the Gulf. Enjoy the pics
Bonus : whilst out searching for rotor arms this afternoon (to no avail) I did have the pleasure of spotting two 036’s - a rare sight in 2024!
Those are Bosch (have the Bosch logo).
The silver car was at a garage receiving a service. Supposedly the owner of the car also has a zero-mile E500 Limited in Gulf delivery.
The black car looked very sorry for itself - also outside a mechanics shop but had been dumped outside on the street. Dubai had quite severe weather earlier in the month and it certainly looked like the car had been flooded quite badly during that weather a couple weeks ago.
Correct. OE/Genuine rotors are made by Doduco and have the MB Star logo on them.
Note that the '96' is likely a casting date, i.e. design date... not the manufacture date. Don't think I've ever seen a manufacture date on any M119 rotors?
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Good day all. It’s been a hot minute since the last update. Unfortunately new rotors and caps did not sort out my idling issue, I ended up dropping my car with my friends garage for diagnosis and check up.
It turns out the E GAS module and two ignition cables had gone bad. Not surprising I guess given the extreme temperature here in the gulf region. The purge valve also does not work and charcoal filter bad. The garage fitted a used E GAS and 2x leads, car is running perfect.
Finally all the parts have arrived I’ll be dropping the car off today for the following:
Replace purge valve
Replace charcoal canister
Replace E GAS module
Replace all ignition leads (the MB ones come in parts and need special assembly)
Flush power steering fluid, replace filter
Flush brake fluid
Re-install the passenger side headlight lens, water ingress
Replace pollen filter
Replace fuel filter
Install the S600 avantguard grill because I want to run this one for a while, prefer the modern look
Next update once I get my car back -
It turns out the E GAS module and two ignition cables had gone bad. Not surprising I guess given the extreme temperature here in the gulf region. The purge valve also does not work and charcoal filter bad. The garage fitted a used E GAS and 2x leads, car is running perfect.
Finally all the parts have arrived I’ll be dropping the car off today for the following:
Replace purge valve
Replace charcoal canister
Replace E GAS module
Replace all ignition leads (the MB ones come in parts and need special assembly)
Flush power steering fluid, replace filter
Flush brake fluid
Re-install the passenger side headlight lens, water ingress
Replace pollen filter
Replace fuel filter
Install the S600 avantguard grill because I want to run this one for a while, prefer the modern look
Next update once I get my car back -
I've not received the car back yet but the shop has informed me that the mechanical work has been completed and the car is running great. Unfortunately, this summer killed my original headliner so I have opted to have the headliner replaced with black Alcantara. This is an upgrade I have been wanting to do for a while as the front drivers side of my headliner was giving way and it was only a matter of time until it totally went. At the same time I am getting the grab handles dyed in black because it would look odd if I kept those grey.
I have also had the Rainbow W124 speakers in storage for a very long time now and I also had these fitted at the same time. One of the headlights had been letting in water after a car wash, it seems the headlight lenses I bought brand new from Germany were separating from the plastic frame so these have been split and now re-sealed. Finally, I've had my E500 Limited gear knob fitted to replace the aftermarket one that has been in my car since I bought it.
Next up is the AC - again, this summer has not been kind to my E500 this year and the AC needs looking at sooner rather than later. I have opted to take my car to another shop to get a more detailed diagnosis, if the evaporator is terminal I will probably try a stop weld for now vs. removing the dashboard to replace the part. For this, I've ordered the Super Seal Cliplight 946 which I think works well for R134 systems - hopefully that can plug up any issues, at least for a few years.
I am also tempted to get the alloys refurbished since there is a shop now doing diamond cut wheels with good results. I had this done a few years ago but unfortunately they did an extremely poor job which flaked away the lacquer in no time leaving me with blotchy looking wheels close up. In January 2025 when my car renewal and annual check is due my E500 will need a new set of tyres as I am running 2019 Michelin's and Dubai road & traffic rules stipulate tyres must be no older than 5 years. I have been looking for a new set of wheels to change up the style but can't settle on anything I like in 18" - any suggestions on what might look good on a facelift 500 in Sapphire Black?
Next update once I get the car back and put smiles on it
I have also had the Rainbow W124 speakers in storage for a very long time now and I also had these fitted at the same time. One of the headlights had been letting in water after a car wash, it seems the headlight lenses I bought brand new from Germany were separating from the plastic frame so these have been split and now re-sealed. Finally, I've had my E500 Limited gear knob fitted to replace the aftermarket one that has been in my car since I bought it.
Next up is the AC - again, this summer has not been kind to my E500 this year and the AC needs looking at sooner rather than later. I have opted to take my car to another shop to get a more detailed diagnosis, if the evaporator is terminal I will probably try a stop weld for now vs. removing the dashboard to replace the part. For this, I've ordered the Super Seal Cliplight 946 which I think works well for R134 systems - hopefully that can plug up any issues, at least for a few years.
I am also tempted to get the alloys refurbished since there is a shop now doing diamond cut wheels with good results. I had this done a few years ago but unfortunately they did an extremely poor job which flaked away the lacquer in no time leaving me with blotchy looking wheels close up. In January 2025 when my car renewal and annual check is due my E500 will need a new set of tyres as I am running 2019 Michelin's and Dubai road & traffic rules stipulate tyres must be no older than 5 years. I have been looking for a new set of wheels to change up the style but can't settle on anything I like in 18" - any suggestions on what might look good on a facelift 500 in Sapphire Black?
Next update once I get the car back and put smiles on it
I’ve received my car back and she’s running perfectly. I don’t think I’ve ever had her run this nice.
Due to a change in circumstances I’ll be parting with my E500 soon. If anyone is interested please drop me a PM and I’d be willing to share all details with an interested party.
Due to a change in circumstances I’ll be parting with my E500 soon. If anyone is interested please drop me a PM and I’d be willing to share all details with an interested party.
to that statement.
Happy new year everyone!
I’ve started the new year with a treat right off the bat for my E500, a set of NEEZ Euro 5 alloy wheels shod with 245/40/18 & 275/35/18 front & rear tyres.
I think the suspension needs to come down a little. I’ve got a H&R spring set for the 400E (w/o SLS), does anyone if these will work on my E500 to get the car a little lower? I’ll try to adjust the rear SLS too.
I would like to get the silver arrow brakes fitted upfront too so I’m planning to begin collecting parts for that upgrade.
View attachment 601686d3-bff8-42fb-8dfc-57cd8519bae1.mov
I’ve started the new year with a treat right off the bat for my E500, a set of NEEZ Euro 5 alloy wheels shod with 245/40/18 & 275/35/18 front & rear tyres.
I think the suspension needs to come down a little. I’ve got a H&R spring set for the 400E (w/o SLS), does anyone if these will work on my E500 to get the car a little lower? I’ll try to adjust the rear SLS too.
I would like to get the silver arrow brakes fitted upfront too so I’m planning to begin collecting parts for that upgrade.
View attachment 601686d3-bff8-42fb-8dfc-57cd8519bae1.mov
NOOOO! Don't use the 400E springs.
What is the current ride height, front & rear, measured from wheel center to fender lip?
Do you want both front and rear to come down? Or only the rear?
How much drop do you want?
I think it looks near perfect as-is... just sayin'...
You'll like those when they're fitted.
@e500.org,
Bill, Love those 18” Neez wheels!! It looks great as it sets!! IMOP don’t mess w/ the ride height unless you put in new stock springs. Anything else will compromise the ride quality.
BTW, In your video, what’s the building or structure on the left that looks like a giant tire or donut? Just Curious.
Bill, Love those 18” Neez wheels!! It looks great as it sets!! IMOP don’t mess w/ the ride height unless you put in new stock springs. Anything else will compromise the ride quality.
BTW, In your video, what’s the building or structure on the left that looks like a giant tire or donut? Just Curious.
Thanks guys - I have decided I will drive the car for a while and see how I go with it. I do recall already having nib-1 spring pads front and rear but I might need to double check that’s indeed the case as I simply cannot remember since I refreshed the entire suspension a few years ago.
I replaced front and rear shocks, springs and all suspension bushes with OEM parts so it’s pretty much factory fresh at all corners.
I’d want the front and rear a touch lower.
The ride quality is simply phenomenal at present so I do not want to comprise that because handling on these cars is so important and I will be daily driving the 500 for the next few months before the brutal summer.
@TerryA that’s the Museum of The Future, probably one of the newer attractions in Dubai.
museumofthefuture.ae
I replaced front and rear shocks, springs and all suspension bushes with OEM parts so it’s pretty much factory fresh at all corners.
I’d want the front and rear a touch lower.
The ride quality is simply phenomenal at present so I do not want to comprise that because handling on these cars is so important and I will be daily driving the 500 for the next few months before the brutal summer.
@TerryA that’s the Museum of The Future, probably one of the newer attractions in Dubai.
Museum of The Future - Future Museum Dubai - Visit Today
Explore the Museum of the Future in Dubai and experience futuristic exhibits. Visit today and immerse yourself in innovative technologies and ideas.
Brief update - since I’m keeping the car I’ve decided to spend 2025 doing a cosmetic refresh on the car. Whilst it’s presentable and I get much enjoyment from staring at my car after parking it, after spending time with Ahmad a few weeks ago, my car really would benefit from finishing off and that includes tidying up some areas of the car that have either worn out over time or I never got around to sorting when I first bought the car. They’ve always bothered me.
I need the help of this board to help me identify part numbers / locate some parts
So a kind of ‘worts and all!’ post being 100% honest about where my car is and where I would like to take it cosmetically… let’s start:
1. Water ingress in the passenger side headlight - this just needs to be resealed / reinstalled
2. Aftermarket grill has never really sat right - could I use my OE frame as I prefer the S600 look?
3. Passenger side door seal - couldn’t identify the right part number for this - also I assume it’s NLA?
4. Roof trim - the seal underneath has deformed, can this be purchased separately or I assume it comes with the trim which is NLA? Either way it also needs new clips as it doesn’t sit flush to the roof.
5. Left side of the bumper is misaligned/hanging down - what could cause this issue?
6. Trunk misaligned - what could cause this?
7. Ariel trim cracking
8. Scratch / chip on quarter
9. Rear door inner trim has shrunk - can these be purchased?
10. Rear parcel shelf first aid kit lid has been modified in the past - I assume I’ll just replace this with a factory part?
11. Body cladding trims chipped, need repainting
12. Wheels need refurbishing back to OE silver and I’ll be installing the Porsche center caps. Are these MB sized center caps? I’ll measure up.
13. Rear bumper trim missing on one side - this is NLA, any other options?
14. SLS bottle discoloured - I’ve got an aftermarket spare I bought on this forum so it might be time to install that now.
15. Bonnet trims fossilized and I believe the parts on the left and right are missing?
16. Japanese toll unit needs carefully removing
17. Sticky residue on the center vent
18. Aftermarket speedometer
19. Steering column trim has shrunk - NLA too?
20. Traction light bulb/ SRS bulb out - I assume these should come on when ignition on position 1? Also, the exterior temp gauge has never displayed the right temp - any ideas?
I would be grateful for everyone’s views on these items / punch list and for any leads on replacement parts.
Thanks for reading!
I need the help of this board to help me identify part numbers / locate some parts
So a kind of ‘worts and all!’ post being 100% honest about where my car is and where I would like to take it cosmetically… let’s start:
1. Water ingress in the passenger side headlight - this just needs to be resealed / reinstalled
2. Aftermarket grill has never really sat right - could I use my OE frame as I prefer the S600 look?
3. Passenger side door seal - couldn’t identify the right part number for this - also I assume it’s NLA?
4. Roof trim - the seal underneath has deformed, can this be purchased separately or I assume it comes with the trim which is NLA? Either way it also needs new clips as it doesn’t sit flush to the roof.
5. Left side of the bumper is misaligned/hanging down - what could cause this issue?
6. Trunk misaligned - what could cause this?
7. Ariel trim cracking
8. Scratch / chip on quarter
9. Rear door inner trim has shrunk - can these be purchased?
10. Rear parcel shelf first aid kit lid has been modified in the past - I assume I’ll just replace this with a factory part?
11. Body cladding trims chipped, need repainting
12. Wheels need refurbishing back to OE silver and I’ll be installing the Porsche center caps. Are these MB sized center caps? I’ll measure up.
13. Rear bumper trim missing on one side - this is NLA, any other options?
14. SLS bottle discoloured - I’ve got an aftermarket spare I bought on this forum so it might be time to install that now.
15. Bonnet trims fossilized and I believe the parts on the left and right are missing?
16. Japanese toll unit needs carefully removing
17. Sticky residue on the center vent
18. Aftermarket speedometer
19. Steering column trim has shrunk - NLA too?
20. Traction light bulb/ SRS bulb out - I assume these should come on when ignition on position 1? Also, the exterior temp gauge has never displayed the right temp - any ideas?
I would be grateful for everyone’s views on these items / punch list and for any leads on replacement parts.
Thanks for reading!
Attachments
Bonnet center trim is fossilized, there are reproductions available. The parts on the left and right are present, although the passenger side may have the outer "wing" broken off (can't tell from those photo).
All cluster warning lights should turn on in position 1, and remain on, with the exception of SRS which will turn off after a few seconds.
Steering column plastic trim normally has a piece of fabric trim stuff glued on. Find an equivalent piece and glue that in.
You'll need to test your ambient temperature sensor & gauge per the FSM specs and figure out which component is bad, and replace it. Those are the only 2 items in the circuit.
You'll need a complete speedometer if you want to go back to 260kph, assuming the 300kph faceplate was calibrated correctly (so the odometer reading & speed indicated are both accurate).
Front door rubber seals are still available new from the dealer, but are crazy money. $500 USD list, and in Europe I'm seeing nearly double that. Each.
All cluster warning lights should turn on in position 1, and remain on, with the exception of SRS which will turn off after a few seconds.
Steering column plastic trim normally has a piece of fabric trim stuff glued on. Find an equivalent piece and glue that in.
You'll need to test your ambient temperature sensor & gauge per the FSM specs and figure out which component is bad, and replace it. Those are the only 2 items in the circuit.
You'll need a complete speedometer if you want to go back to 260kph, assuming the 300kph faceplate was calibrated correctly (so the odometer reading & speed indicated are both accurate).
Front door rubber seals are still available new from the dealer, but are crazy money. $500 USD list, and in Europe I'm seeing nearly double that. Each.
Bilal,
Wow! What’s the average summer temperature in Dubai? It looks like you have a lot of heat damage to rubber parts.
Item #6 Trunk Misaligned could probably be fixed w/ NEW Rubber Trunk Stops+ maybe a little adjustment. I replaced mine a while back when I noticed all of the rubber was deteriorated off of the metal.
I paid $58.00 for mine thru MB Naperville for OE but I think @gsxr found some repros for a lot less somewhere.
Wow! What’s the average summer temperature in Dubai? It looks like you have a lot of heat damage to rubber parts.
Item #6 Trunk Misaligned could probably be fixed w/ NEW Rubber Trunk Stops+ maybe a little adjustment. I replaced mine a while back when I noticed all of the rubber was deteriorated off of the metal.
I paid $58.00 for mine thru MB Naperville for OE but I think @gsxr found some repros for a lot less somewhere.
Thanks Terry - summer here reaches 50c+ and very humid.
I thought it could be the stops - how to adjust them exactly - is there an adjustment on the trunk side? I need to check but they were all replaced with MB original parts c. 5yrs ago.
Thanks Dave!Bonnet center trim is fossilized, there are reproductions available. The parts on the left and right are present, although the passenger side may have the outer "wing" broken off (can't tell from those photo).
All cluster warning lights should turn on in position 1, and remain on, with the exception of SRS which will turn off after a few seconds.
Steering column plastic trim normally has a piece of fabric trim stuff glued on. Find an equivalent piece and glue that in.
You'll need to test your ambient temperature sensor & gauge per the FSM specs and figure out which component is bad, and replace it. Those are the only 2 items in the circuit.
You'll need a complete speedometer if you want to go back to 260kph, assuming the 300kph faceplate was calibrated correctly (so the odometer reading & speed indicated are both accurate).
Front door rubber seals are still available new from the dealer, but are crazy money. $500 USD list, and in Europe I'm seeing nearly double that. Each.
I will look out for the bonnet trims as indeed they're completely fossilized, but still intact. It seems there should be pieces left and right or maybe they have just disintegrated from the center trim.
The traction light bulb is the one I need then because indeed SRS goes on/off as it should.
How do I test the temp sensor - can anyone point me towards the directions?
The speedometer reads wrong at current so I think the PO just changed the face plate but never got it calibrated, so I should be able to install an original 260kph one, I'll lookout for one then.
I am surprised the front door rubber seal is available - I will have to look out for one.
The center is foam and is disintegrating. This does not extend all the way to each side.
The thin left & right trims are rubber pieces which are present in your photos, they are not missing.
FSM doc:
If it can‘t be pushed up and tightened down, then the mounting bracket on the bumper is probably. (PN A1248800314).
Guys I’ve been ordering parts. The bonnet foam/hood insulation, door seals, steering wheel column trim, traction light bulb are now all ordered and en route. The rear bumper trim/slat I have seen this with Octoclassic but reading mixed reviews about that shop 
- no other realistic options at present so I might just bite the bullet and order it.
Still a few more parts to collect before my car can go into the shop.
The roof trims are pretty difficult to locate tbh - have checked many sources, found a few used copies but shipping is awkward due to the dimensions and they’re likely to be in similar condition as mine. I might have to leave this for now and just install new clips.
Regarding the ride height, if you see these photos from this morning, after more driving the rear is still a little high. I am not sure if I have Nib 1 spring pads on. If I do - then I can only really go for lowering springs. Will the 400E H&R springs lower the rear? I have these with me.
I’ve also managed to score what I believe is an uber rare E500 Limited decal. I’ve seen this on various E500 Limited over the years, although can’t really find any official data about these emblems. I’m not sure where to mount it - maybe on the passenger side on the dashboard?
- no other realistic options at present so I might just bite the bullet and order it. Still a few more parts to collect before my car can go into the shop.
The roof trims are pretty difficult to locate tbh - have checked many sources, found a few used copies but shipping is awkward due to the dimensions and they’re likely to be in similar condition as mine. I might have to leave this for now and just install new clips.
Regarding the ride height, if you see these photos from this morning, after more driving the rear is still a little high. I am not sure if I have Nib 1 spring pads on. If I do - then I can only really go for lowering springs. Will the 400E H&R springs lower the rear? I have these with me.
I’ve also managed to score what I believe is an uber rare E500 Limited decal. I’ve seen this on various E500 Limited over the years, although can’t really find any official data about these emblems. I’m not sure where to mount it - maybe on the passenger side on the dashboard?
Before messing with springs, make sure to try and adjust the rear SLS turnbuckle slightly, and see if the rear end lowers at all. The SLS will maintain ride height even if you cut stock springs or install lowering springs, you need to do both in order to get a drop.
I'm not sure about the H&R 400E rears springs. Got a part number, and/or measurements for free length, number of coils, and wire diameter (within 0.1mm)?
Hi Bill! About the rear bumper trims, some 2/3 years I obtained some 3 D printed units from, I think, a member of this board. Unfortunately (and unhelpfully!), I can't find any record in my files as to who this might have been - and the board search facility seems to be down at the moment, which might have been able to help me!
Maybe another member can throw some light on who this might have been?
But whoever I got them from, they'd done a good job, as the trims were a very good fit!
Maybe another member can throw some light on who this might have been?
But whoever I got them from, they'd done a good job, as the trims were a very good fit!
@r44raven, you are absolutely right. I bought some replicas from them when I was in Tokyo. From what I could tell back then they do not ship outside of Japan. This might have changed by now.
Had them on my car for a while now and they work perfectly fine.
There is also an outfit in Germany which replicates these items. No idea though if they are any good (no affiliation):
www.kleinanzeigen.de
Had them on my car for a while now and they work perfectly fine.
There is also an outfit in Germany which replicates these items. No idea though if they are any good (no affiliation):
Einlage Mudflap Stoßfänger Mercedes-Benz W124 E500 A1248851623
Wir bieten ihnen hier eine neue Einlage für ihre Mercedes-Benz E500 (W124) Stoßstange. Hergestellt...,Einlage Mudflap Stoßfänger Mercedes-Benz W124 E500 A1248851623 in Niedersachsen - Badbergen
Yeah carbon ceramic discs - can probably purchase a ropey 500 with the money spent on these brakes - all brand new and not refurbishedWhoa. Carbon brakes?
Is the incoming Brabus engine a fresh Brabus build, or an old engine being refreshed for install/upgrade?
Regarding the engine, it’s an old engine being refreshed by Bernard in Germany - has been there for some time.
Not sure Terry - I’ve never owned a car with carbon ceramic rotors. To the untrained eye, they look like micro cracks on the rotor surface. Perhaps another member can chime in?
Yesterday I was at the garage where Tasos is the head mechanic. The primary reason for the visit is I wanted to check out my car in detail via a visual inspection as it had been a while since my E500 had a thorough examination and I wanted to ensure the car was tip-top, particularly going into the summer where the temperatures are beginning to rise.
I snapped a video myself (which are mostly my own observations - I am no mechanic and that is apparent in the video!), nevertheless I thought some of you might find it interesting and it is my own way of documenting how the car looks. At the same time, samples had been taken from the transmission oil, spark plugs checked and other tests performed on bushes etc.
I would also be glad for any of you guys to point out any obvious issues you can see that I may have missed.
The list is not long, but quite important:
In the meantime we will be collating the parts required for the above jobs and once we have all the parts together, I will get the car booked in for the work to be completed.
I snapped a video myself (which are mostly my own observations - I am no mechanic and that is apparent in the video!), nevertheless I thought some of you might find it interesting and it is my own way of documenting how the car looks. At the same time, samples had been taken from the transmission oil, spark plugs checked and other tests performed on bushes etc.
I would also be glad for any of you guys to point out any obvious issues you can see that I may have missed.
The list is not long, but quite important:
- Minor fuel leak from the crush washers on one of the fuel pumps.
- Fuel line (A1244705775, which I think has been superseded with A1244706975 from reading on this forum?) from the fuel pumps up to the fuel tank is visibly cracked and needs replacement - I have never replaced this part so the part in situ could be the original one, I did replace the other fuel hoses as a part of the fuel pump assembly in the past).
- Minor coolant leak from the bottom of the radiator (this is incredibly frustrating as I replaced the radiator around 2-3 yrs ago with a BEHR unit from MB and my car has not done many miles since - this is either a new leak caused by a stone or very minor leak which has been there for a while as I have not seen the level really drop from the coolant reservoir, either way it needs addressing).
- Exhaust blow from one of the exhaust connections between the cat and the muffler, visible black soot can be seen here at the connection.
- Covering (A1248840022) missing which you can see on the video.
- Play in the passenger side front wheel, Tasos mentioned the wheel bearing could be tightened/adjusted and repacked with grease.
- Minor damage to the engine underbody tray (I may need to get this repaired by a fiberglass shop).
- Exhaust rubber mountings showing some very minor cracking.
- Transmission fluid and filter change due.
- Differential fluid change due.
In the meantime we will be collating the parts required for the above jobs and once we have all the parts together, I will get the car booked in for the work to be completed.
2) The fuel feed line from the tank is not fun to replace, the SLS valve blocks access. At least the hose is still available, although it's up to $180 MSRP in USA now. The cracks don't indicate imminent failure, but it would be a good idea to replace this proactively.
3) The coolant leak could be coming from much higher up on the radiator. Locate the exact source. More than once I've found the simple solution was tightening the upper radiator hose clamp. Coolant can travel all the way from the top to the bottom, hiding the source. Either way, the radiator may not need replacement, don't automatically buy a new one. I'd wipe all the residue off, go for a drive, and figure out the highest point you find liquid.
4) The seal at the back of the catalysts will be tricky to replace, because it is insanely difficult to separate the NLA resonator from the NLA catalysts. The other pipe (with internal graphite seal) is a slip joint, and the 2 pipes corrode together. Pray the shop doesn't break either the resonator or the cat pipe trying to separate these 2 items. I would absolutely ignore this exhaust "leak" if it's not audible. Very high risk, very low reward.
6) It is NORMAL to feel play at the wheels when the bearings are adjusted to spec! If there's no play, the bearings are too tight. I hope your tech measures bearing play with a dial gauge. Any other method is inaccurate and invalid. Freaks me out when any tech grabs the wheel and says "oh, there's play, bearings are loose." NOPE. Show me on the dial gauge. MB allows a surprisingly high amount of end play at the bearings.
8) The catalyst rubber hangers are NLA, the minor cracks are not yet affecting functionality. Leave them alone.
The tiny bit of rust on the edge of the LCA bushings is nothing to be concerned about. Bushings look new. Ball joint boots look almost new as well.
Overall everything looks very good underneath!
3) The coolant leak could be coming from much higher up on the radiator. Locate the exact source. More than once I've found the simple solution was tightening the upper radiator hose clamp. Coolant can travel all the way from the top to the bottom, hiding the source. Either way, the radiator may not need replacement, don't automatically buy a new one. I'd wipe all the residue off, go for a drive, and figure out the highest point you find liquid.
4) The seal at the back of the catalysts will be tricky to replace, because it is insanely difficult to separate the NLA resonator from the NLA catalysts. The other pipe (with internal graphite seal) is a slip joint, and the 2 pipes corrode together. Pray the shop doesn't break either the resonator or the cat pipe trying to separate these 2 items. I would absolutely ignore this exhaust "leak" if it's not audible. Very high risk, very low reward.
6) It is NORMAL to feel play at the wheels when the bearings are adjusted to spec! If there's no play, the bearings are too tight. I hope your tech measures bearing play with a dial gauge. Any other method is inaccurate and invalid. Freaks me out when any tech grabs the wheel and says "oh, there's play, bearings are loose." NOPE. Show me on the dial gauge. MB allows a surprisingly high amount of end play at the bearings.
8) The catalyst rubber hangers are NLA, the minor cracks are not yet affecting functionality. Leave them alone.
The tiny bit of rust on the edge of the LCA bushings is nothing to be concerned about. Bushings look new. Ball joint boots look almost new as well.
Overall everything looks very good underneath!
@e500.org - For the Fuel pump washers, I used @Klink 's recommendation of using some of that vibrant green MB wheel bearing grease on those washers when doing two fuel system redos now - no issues with leaks post that (nor where there before, but good peace of mind). PN: A002989005110.
Catalyst rubbers are NLA like Dave mentioned, but a good potential for fit would be: 1074920044 based on this post by Ricardo: Rear exhaust hanger part number help | M119 Engine
Catalyst rubbers are NLA like Dave mentioned, but a good potential for fit would be: 1074920044 based on this post by Ricardo: Rear exhaust hanger part number help | M119 Engine
Yup, what @dreaming.haze said. The fuel leak is from the copper washers. Since I started using @Klink's trick, I've had zero leaks. 
Keep an eye on those front brake pads. The one visible doesn't need replacement yet, but check the other 3 to make sure they aren't thinner.
Keep an eye on those front brake pads. The one visible doesn't need replacement yet, but check the other 3 to make sure they aren't thinner.
