Here is the idle speed contact switch, which is a very common item to throw codes.
It has been known to cause issues relating to a rough/stumbling idle. A few folks have replaced their switches to remedy the occasional stumble at idle, but I actually think that the carbon tracks on the resistor plastic piece (from my recent post of the MBCA STAR article) is the real cause of this. In any case, this part can and does go bad, so it's good to have a reference and how-to for it here.
This switch is used with cars that have ASR.
It's sort of a pain in the butt to replace, but is definitely a DIY job. Here is the procedure:
A. Remove the knee bolster
- pull head light switch out with pliers (cover with a cloth so you don't damage switch)
- remove large bolt that holds the trim piece on
- remove trim pieces on both sides of steering wheel (pry up/out from the left most side on both of these)
- remove the 5 bolts under these trim pieces and 3 more on the bottom (8 mm)
- unscrew the parking brake release (3 phillips) and hood release (1 phillips) and detach these two cables
B. Remove black plastic piece above pedals
- remove one 8mm screw
- gently pry the piece out starting along the footwell vent
C. Remove floor mat, then remove accelerator pedal clip by pulling outward (you may also need to remove the carpeting to get to this clip)
D. Disassemble acceleartor linkage
- rotate the accelerator pedal ~200 degrees until it can be removed (1)
- detach spring (2)
- pry off the large clip (3)
- remove retaining clip (4)
- slide the assembly out off the hinge/rod
E. Unplug the idle speed contact switch (follow the cable)
F. Disassemble the plug to route the wires through the accelerator linkage
G. Replace the switch using the appropriate torx driver for the two screws (or a similar regular screw driver if the torx isn't available)
H. Put it all back together
Cheers,
Gerry
GSXR edit: Added screen shot of FSM showing factory identifcation number "S29/3" for this switch. Updated thread title as well.
It has been known to cause issues relating to a rough/stumbling idle. A few folks have replaced their switches to remedy the occasional stumble at idle, but I actually think that the carbon tracks on the resistor plastic piece (from my recent post of the MBCA STAR article) is the real cause of this. In any case, this part can and does go bad, so it's good to have a reference and how-to for it here.
This switch is used with cars that have ASR.
It's sort of a pain in the butt to replace, but is definitely a DIY job. Here is the procedure:
A. Remove the knee bolster
- pull head light switch out with pliers (cover with a cloth so you don't damage switch)
- remove large bolt that holds the trim piece on
- remove trim pieces on both sides of steering wheel (pry up/out from the left most side on both of these)
- remove the 5 bolts under these trim pieces and 3 more on the bottom (8 mm)
- unscrew the parking brake release (3 phillips) and hood release (1 phillips) and detach these two cables
B. Remove black plastic piece above pedals
- remove one 8mm screw
- gently pry the piece out starting along the footwell vent
C. Remove floor mat, then remove accelerator pedal clip by pulling outward (you may also need to remove the carpeting to get to this clip)
D. Disassemble acceleartor linkage
- rotate the accelerator pedal ~200 degrees until it can be removed (1)
- detach spring (2)
- pry off the large clip (3)
- remove retaining clip (4)
- slide the assembly out off the hinge/rod
E. Unplug the idle speed contact switch (follow the cable)
F. Disassemble the plug to route the wires through the accelerator linkage
G. Replace the switch using the appropriate torx driver for the two screws (or a similar regular screw driver if the torx isn't available)
H. Put it all back together
Cheers,
Gerry
GSXR edit: Added screen shot of FSM showing factory identifcation number "S29/3" for this switch. Updated thread title as well.
