HOW-TO: Replacing W124 interior headlight switch

[RicardoD]

Moderator's note: Another fully illustrated HOW-TO on headlight switch replacement can be found at post #55 of this thread. You can reference that HOW-TO at this link.



My 1994 E500 headlight switch started getting finicky, sometimes stuck, and telling me it needs to be replaced. There is a fantastic HOW-TO at Pelican Parts:

LINK HERE: Mercedes-Benz W124 Headlight Switch Replacement | 1986-1995 E-Class | Pelican Parts DIY Maintenance Article

A couple of notes (some un-needed steps):

- I did NOT need to remove my lower kick panel​

- I did NOT need to disconnect the parking brake release cable from the handle​

​

Headlight switch part number: 000-545-62-04 (it was $62 at mboemparts.com as of spring 2018. Edit: now $58 in April 2024, list price $72.)

Tools: 8mm socket, phillips head screw driver, 24mm socket or needle nose pliers, plastic interior trim removal pry bar.

This is a straight forward job, just take your time. My switch lasted 168k miles and I think I will never be replacing this switch again.

In case Pelican Parts link does not work at some time in the future I have attached a PDF of the instructions and photos.

 

[gsxr]

Thanks for the write-up, Ricardo! I've had this switch fail on multiple cars. I had been replacing them with used switches from P+P ($10 or so) but after a couple of those failed again, now I'm only buying new. Well worth it at $60.

 

[Klink]

That switch is also a frequent cause of false or intermittent bulb failure warning lamp illumination. Once that switch starts to feel funny, replace it, or you can be stranded at night without headlamps. Manipulation of the switch won't always get them to turn on once it fully fails...

 

[nocfn]

Ignition switch too

 

[gerryvz]

Just a quick note of clarification on this: this thread is not a real "HOW-TO" because it only IDENTIFIES an issue and discusses the replacement, and describes an overview of things, but does not actually have a photographically and textually documented step-by-step HOW-TO procedure.

Linking to other sites' procedures is not an appropriate way to do a HOW-TO on this site. Our value-add is the actual in-depth walk-through of the job, along with the commentary. We do our own processes, organically, and provide our own information, photos and text. We strive to make our HOW-TO content superior and more in-depth to other sites' content.

I have no issue with using other sites' HOW-TO information (which often doesn't directly apply to E500E-specific jobs), but they should not be exclusively used and represented as a HOW-TO here. They are fine to use as a follow-on post or as supplemental -- but never primary -- material.

Thanks
Gerry

 

[RicardoD]

Makes sense Gerry. Feel free to retitle or relocate to a different forum. I just want a landing spot for anyone that is searching for headlight switch on this forum.

 

[Jlaa]

Thanks for relaying this procedure Ricardo. My headlight switch broke over the weekend. The switch still conducts electricity but the detents feel really "mushy". Car has 66K miles on it.

 

[Jlaa]

I replaced the switch with a new $61 one from Naperville MB. As with Ricardo, I did not need to remove the lower kick panel nor the parking release cable. Now the new switch is in and everything is back to normal --- automobile-dom's highest effort finger strength headlight switch is back! Note --- the old switch was feeling mushy, and when I shake the old switch, I can hear plastic pieces rattling around.

 

[RicardoD]

Awesome! Hard to believe the effort on the new switch but feels properly German overbuilt!

 

[gsxr]

Photos of the inside of a busted one are below.

 

[Jlaa]

Mine had clearly seen better days.

 

[IBNR]

Just did this job today, nice and easy and the new headlight switch works and feels great...as others have noted, no need to remove the lower kick panel or disconnect the parking brake release. I didn't bother taking apart the old switch; it rattles like a toy maraca so I'm sure it was in at least as bad shape as the others pictured here!

Anyway, this is probably a long-shot but does anyone know where I could get a replacement for the tiny little light bulb that goes into the black connector socket that attaches to the top of the white plastic backing of the headlight switch indicator trim surround (see Step/Figure 7 in the Pelican Parts tutorial Ricardo posted)? Mine has been burnt out forever, and I broke it just now trying to remove it from the socket. The bulb is very, very small with just a glass connector terminal and it appears to be frosted...but I cannot see any numbers or writing on it at all to identify a replacement.

Note, I'm not talking about the little bulb that goes in the tip of the switch and lights up when the rear fog light is on, rather the bulb that goes inside the trim panel itself to illuminate the headlight switch indicator positions...or at least I guess that's what it does, since I can't remember it ever working on my car!

EDIT: FOUND IT IN THE WIKI...THANKS!

 

[gsxr]

Mike the illumination bulb should be p/n 000000-001061 for clear, and p/n 000-825-00-94 for frosted. See EPC group 54, subgroup 395, callout 158. OE bulbs now add suffix -64 to the p/n likely indicating a supplier change.

I think the frosted ones are only used on the dash vent rollers, and are NLA from MB... supercedes to the clear bulb. However, the frosted bulbs are still available aftermarket (Importec has Jahn 22-8875-094 frosted bulbs).

 

[IBNR]

Thanks! I found a pack of 10 of the frosted ones for sale on eBay under the p/n you provided (and as listed in the Wiki) for $11 so I jumped on it...if those end up being wrong for some reason I'll look into the Jahn ones you mention.

 

[Trae]

My headlights (1992 500E) suddenly quit working on low and high beam when selected.

High beam works when stalk is pulled. . .quits working when released. Headlight selector knob feels tight. All copper fuses are good.

Should I order A 000 545 62 04? EPC says it is a light rotary switch.

Knob is A 202 545 00 81, but the current knob feels tight.

 

[nocfn]

is it the original headlight switch? If so, I would trade it out in all of your cars if original. Same concept for several models you own.

 

[Trae]

Ordered switch. . .let you know.

Thanks Louis

 

[M104-AMG]

FWIW, I was tracking down why my RF low-beam headlight circuit and the RF driving-lamps were NOT receiving +12 VDC, even though there was continuity to the proper fuse, and the headlight switch was swapped out with a known working one.

I was ready to run a new wire, consulted the schematic again, and for S&Gs, R&R the bulb-out black box in the fuse box, and everything works again.

neil

 

[Melville]

The switch on my wagon feels very stiff, but the other day it started to feel like it had an extra notch when turning it off. Like it needed a touch extra force to go all the way off. I don't know if the switch is on its last legs, but I ordered a replacement to be safe.

My question is - how easy is this as a DIY job? And not for those people that are actually skilled at DIY. For someone like me. Which, for the experts here, means - how easy would this be for you if you are drunk. And blindfolded. And also you are defusing a ticking time bomb and need to get the job done before it explodes (i.e., before my kids realize I'm working on the car and come to "help").

 

[gsxr]

Replacing the headlight switch is the easy part. The nuisance is removing the trim to access the bolts that attach the knee bolster pad to the dash brackets. Overall not that hard, but you risk breaking some of the plastic retaining tabs on the trim. Any chance you have a local self-service salvage yard where you can practice on a junk car? After the trims are off, you could probably manage either drunk or blindfolded. Both simultaneously would be tougher.

 

[Melville]

... Any chance you have a local self-service salvage yard where you can practice on a junk car?

There are local yards that occasionally have W124s. My problem is time. Lots of things on the to do list, and if I spend time going to the yard to practice, I probably wouldn't get around to doing the job on my own car for so long that I would forget what I did.

 

[gerryvz]

I’d just take the car to Ntrepid’s house and have him do it. That way if/when he breaks any tabs, you can blame him. Problem solved.

There are five LKQ yards in the Baltimore area, and 3-4 of them have 124s at any given time.

 

[Jlaa]

The switch on my wagon feels very stiff, but the other day it started to feel like it had an extra notch when turning it off. Like it needed a touch extra force to go all the way off. I don't know if the switch is on its last legs, but I ordered a replacement to be safe.

My question is - how easy is this as a DIY job? And not for those people that are actually skilled at DIY. For someone like me. Which, for the experts here, means - how easy would this be for you if you are drunk. And blindfolded. And also you are defusing a ticking time bomb and need to get the job done before it explodes (i.e., before my kids realize I'm working on the car and come to "help").

Melville, ignore guys like GSXR and the Honch. Their idea of "relaxing" is something along the lines of dropping the driveshaft. Their opinions are all tainted.

Take it from me --- If I can do it (and I did) - so can you. I'm all thumbs. Every job I do at least 3x. First time, f%$#k up. Second time, more %$#%@#$. Third time, bang on. This applies to even the simplest of jobs, like picking lint from my belly button.

Trust me - headlight switch replacement - You can do it.

 

[gerryvz]

Melville, ignore guys like GSXR and the Honch. Their idea of "relaxing" is something along the lines of dropping the driveshaft. Their opinions are all tainted.

Take it from me --- If I can do it (and I did) - so can you. I'm all thumbs. Every job I do at least 3x. First time, f%$#k up. Second time, more %$#%@#$. Third time, bang on. This applies to even the simplest of jobs, like picking lint from my belly button.

Trust me - headlight switch replacement - You can do it.

 

[Jlaa]

Mine had clearly seen better days.

Well this is irritating.

30 months after installing the new headlight switch, the new one has now failed. The failure mode, while not mission critical, is annoying nonetheless. The failure mode is as follows:

Pulling out the knob two-clicks yields rear foglight operation, but the center of the knob lights up only when the position 1 (front parking lamps) is selected. The center of the knob does not light up when position 2 (front headlights) is selected.

GRRRRRRRRRR.......

 

[Kyiv]

Well this is irritating.

30 months after installing the new headlight switch, the new one has now failed. The failure mode, while not mission critical, is annoying nonetheless. The failure mode is as follows:

Pulling out the knob two-clicks yields rear foglight operation, but the center of the knob lights up only when the position 1 (front parking lamps) is selected. The center of the knob does not light up when position 2 (front headlights) is selected.

GRRRRRRRRRR.......

Hey mate! Have you opened up the replacement to the original switch, to see what the cause is in this case?

 

[Kyiv]

Just replaced my original switch which, despite being very crusty, still managed to somehow work, with a new Merc part. I of course expected that new one will be pleasant to turn, but it is still slightly surprising by how pleasant it is.

 

[Jlaa]

Hey mate! Have you opened up the replacement to the original switch, to see what the cause is in this case?

Just replaced my original switch which, despite being very crusty, still managed to somehow work, with a new Merc part. I of course expected that new one will be pleasant to turn, but it is still slightly surprising by how pleasant it is.

Kyiv!!!! It is good to see you posting! I am so relieved.
I opened up the replacement switch and found broken plastic everywhere.

However when I replaced the replacement, I don't think I opened up the replacement^2 ---- I think I stored it away somewhere because everything functioned just fine EXCEPT for the pull-out-2-click-and-you-get-the-illuminated-dot.

 

[Kyiv]

Kyiv!!!! It is good to see you posting! I am so relieved.

Yeah, back to soulless, sterile, Cotco-Walmart, "how are you, good, how are you", drawn-with-a-ruler-like-African-borders, suburban life

 

[Jlaa]

Yeah, back to soulless, sterile, Cotco-Walmart, "how are you, good, how are you", drawn-with-a-ruler-like-African-borders, suburban life

I am sure you have a renewed appreciation for the banality and tediousness of the mundane, humdrum existence that one can only enjoy, and I mean truly enjoy with no sense of irony whatsoever, in the Midwest USA.

 

[_BenzW124]

Just want to hear your opinions with these switches.

Are aftermarket ones (Meyle, URO,etc) a good choice?

I’m considering Meyle switch myself. Has anyone used it before?

Mine has been finicky and sometimes not functioning at all and need to be replaced soon. Thanks ahead!

 

[Jlaa]

Just want to hear your opinions with these switches.

Are aftermarket ones (Meyle, URO,etc) a good choice?

I’m considering Meyle switch myself. Has anyone used it before?

Mine has been finicky and sometimes not functioning at all and need to be replaced soon. Thanks ahead!

Please consider using the OE switch. They aren't hideously expensive. I think most people here would prefer to avoid Meyle and definitely avoid Uro. Good luck!

 

[gerryvz]

I think a new factory switch is like $50-60. I recently bought one but haven't installed it on my car yet. Don't cheap out and go with aftermarket for something like this. You won't be saving that much money.

 

[gsxr]

Are aftermarket ones (Meyle, URO, etc) a good choice? I’m considering Meyle switch myself. Has anyone used it before?

Use any of the above and you'll regret it. Pennywise, pound foolish. Read the link below:

500E / E500 Parts Manufacturer Quality List | Maintenance Documents

Many folks wonder as to which brands (OEM and aftermarket) are good quality and are worthy of purchasing. Here is a listing (subject to change and modification over time) as to which vendors are "safe" to buy from and which ones have "caution" and "do not buy" flags. This list is based on the...

www.500eboard.co

 

[_BenzW124]

Thanks a bunch.
I’ll take your words and get the OE factory one.
I am new to these cars and only refer to this excellent forum for suggestions!

 

[dionphaneuf]

I replaced my headlight switch not long after purchasing my car 4 years ago. I recently noticed its knob had some hard to remove schmutz on it so ordered a replacement. I bought a replacement, 202-545-00-81, but it appears different than the original, with a dash instead of an arrow. Did I miss something?

 

[kegmankipp]

Interesting. I’ve never seen the arrow version on any of the 7 124s I’ve owned.

 

[gsxr]

I've seen both, but I don't know what years each was originally delivered with...

 

[Jlaa]

Hmmmmm.... mine is an arrow as well, and the EPC does list 202-545-00-81.

 

[Jlaa]

Hmmmmm.... mine is an arrow as well, and the EPC does list 202-545-00-81.

View attachment 146765

View attachment 146766

FWIW --- I looked up the 126 560SEL. It says 202-545-00-81 supersedes 201-540-01-83. The 202 chassis wasn't around when the 124 was made, but the 201 chassis certainly was. I wonder if the 201-540-01-83 part is the arrow part.



See this vague web reference to the 201 part with an arrow --

 

[dionphaneuf]

I've tried searching for a chevron knob online from a reputable vendor to no avail so I'm going to resort to tidying up one I have or trying to grab one from a pick n pull if I can find one in good shape. It's Chevron only for me.

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Bump. Do I need a new switch if when turning on the headlights and pulling the knob to turn on the fog lights, it just jumps back to the fog light off position? the fog lights go on when I pulled the knob, but as soon as I release it it springs back to position and the fog lights turn off..

 

[gsxr]

Bump. Do I need a new switch if when turning on the headlights and pulling the knob to turn on the fog lights, it just jumps back to the fog light off position? the fog lights go on when I pulled the knob, but as soon as I release it it springs back to position and the fog lights turn off..

Yes - it sounds like a defective headlight switch, if the parking lights or headlights are on, and the fog detent is not working. First I've heard of this failure mode though. Fortunately, new OE switches are not expensive.

1954-2000 Mercedes-Benz Switch 000-545-62-04 | MB OEM Parts

1954-2000 Mercedes-Benz part # 000-545-62-04 - Switch

www.mboemparts.com

 

[ArauzMotoring]

Yes - it sounds like a defective headlight switch, if the parking lights or headlights are on, and the fog detent is not working. First I've heard of this failure mode though. Fortunately, new OE switches are not expensive.

1954-2000 Mercedes-Benz Switch 000-545-62-04 | MB OEM Parts

1954-2000 Mercedes-Benz part # 000-545-62-04 - Switch

www.mboemparts.com

I tried placing a decent sized order on that website and yet, it states they don't ship to my location

 

[gsxr]

I tried placing a decent sized order on that [Naperville] website and yet, it states they don't ship to my location

Huh? You are in Florida, correct? That is bizarre. Try emailing the Naperville parts director, his name is Bob: KrusinskiR@autonation.com

There should also be free shipping on orders over $100 with code: 500EPROMO

 

[gerryvz]

You can try MB of Annapolis, here in Maryland, which is who I use. www.getmercedesparts.com

They will very definitely ship to Florida, and many members in other states here have used them to order parts.

 

[nocfn]

Well it seems that my W124.036 light switch has developed a fail. I no longer get the option to turn on DRL. Just corners, fogs or all iof them. No matter which position I am in other than off, everything is on. So I ordered new switch and it will be here mid-week.

 

[gsxr]

Well it seems that my W124.036 light switch has developed a fail. I no longer get the option to turn on DRL. Just corners, fogs or all iof them. No natter which position I am in other than off, everything is on. So I ordered new swiitch and it will be here mid-week.

Was this old / original? I've had to replace the headlight rotary switch on most of my 124's. It's a pretty common failure. Thankfully these are still available new from the dealer.

 

[nocfn]

Sadly I got naperville saying they cannot deliver to my zip code. About 19k in sales over 14 years. Must be an issue with them.

made typo corrections.....

 

[gsxr]

Sadly I got naper ille saying they cannot deluver to my zip code. About 19k in sales over 14 years. Must be an issue with them.

wait, what?