Oh yeah, definitely crunchy plastic now. Thank you @kiev
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OWNER hsumeet (400E)
- Thread starter hsumeet
- Start date
Would that just be me finding things that need replacing on this car?
Finally I have one code on pin 7, 11 blinks. ETA right?
"Fuel safety shut-off signal to LH-SFI control module (N3/1) 23 20.0
Closed throttle recognition signal to LH-SFI control module (N3/1)"
I don't actually know what that means.
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No sir, that is literally the only code that popped up right after the throttle no response issue. I drove around my neighborhood until it happened and then pulled over to check immediately. When I got her home to check again, only 1 blink in Pin 7. The code went away by itself? I'm used to OBD2 telling me exactly what's wrong so this is confusing me like nothing else.
Yessir, switched back to the old one to test it out and same symptoms, same code. Hoping the ETA from @sheward will make everything right again.
Also, idle has begun to pop up and down between 750 and 300.
Lol. No. Just your own space to chart your journeys with this and any of your other cars. Turns into a nice little record of your ownership.Would that just be me finding things that need replacing on this car?
Finally I have one code on pin 7, 11 blinks. ETA right?
"Fuel safety shut-off signal to LH-SFI control module (N3/1) 23 20.0
Closed throttle recognition signal to LH-SFI control module (N3/1)"
I don't actually know what that means.
“C’mon man... we’ve ALLLL got em!”
I just moved 108 posts, which I had to select one after another, repetitiously, to move into a new "OWNER" thread for this car/owner.
I am not sure how a "FOR SALE" thread quickly morphed into an owner thread with 100+ posts, but it is customary protocol on this forum for new owners, if they choose to, to create an "OWNER" thread for their car in the "Owners and their Cars" sub-forum.
It is NOT appropriate to just sloppily turn a FOR SALE thread into an owner thread. That is on the owner of this car, for not creating an owner thread once he actually purchased the car and began diagnosing and fixing any issues he found with it.
I would ask of the members here, and I fear in the worst/most egregious cases that @The Emperor will force-choke offenders, to PLEASE follow protocol and use the forum and thread types for what they are intended for. It is significant extra burden on the management here to have to tediously select post after post, compile and then move them to preserve some semblance of order. It is not fair to those of us who manage this forum, particularly with all of the other work that is done behind the scenes on a daily or near-daily basis to keep the forum up and running.
Thanks.
I am not sure how a "FOR SALE" thread quickly morphed into an owner thread with 100+ posts, but it is customary protocol on this forum for new owners, if they choose to, to create an "OWNER" thread for their car in the "Owners and their Cars" sub-forum.
It is NOT appropriate to just sloppily turn a FOR SALE thread into an owner thread. That is on the owner of this car, for not creating an owner thread once he actually purchased the car and began diagnosing and fixing any issues he found with it.
I would ask of the members here, and I fear in the worst/most egregious cases that @The Emperor will force-choke offenders, to PLEASE follow protocol and use the forum and thread types for what they are intended for. It is significant extra burden on the management here to have to tediously select post after post, compile and then move them to preserve some semblance of order. It is not fair to those of us who manage this forum, particularly with all of the other work that is done behind the scenes on a daily or near-daily basis to keep the forum up and running.
Thanks.
The saga continued. Last night I drove the car for over 200 miles with the problem coming on and off while trying not to doo doo in my pants thinking about being stuck on backcountry roads. I was able to pull codes 2, 6, and 11 this time, all from Pin 7.
From Rick's provided PDF for his code reader:
From Rick's provided PDF for his code reader:
- 2 - Cruise control/idle speed control module
- 6 - Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch
- 11 - Fuel safety shut-off to LH-SFI control module
This isn't enough. You must record a video of self-flagellation and post it here. For an example of a proper way to self-flagellate, search YouTube.Thank you so much @gerryvz and I apologize profusely for not following the laws of the land
I wish I hadn't searched that. My YouTube recommendations will never be the same again.
Who is Rick and what PDF is being used? Those codes on pin #7 can have multiple translations; particularly blink code #2.
Use this PDF document, if you don't already have it. Note the codes are different between ASR Pin 7, and non-ASR Pin 7.
Remember to have a new gasket handy for the ETA swap, blue Hylomar for the gasket (and to make a mess every time you accidentally touch the goop while cramming the ETA into the manifold), plus the MAF rubber boot @kiev recommended. I'll add to that, check the three PCV hoses between the ETA and passenger valve cover. They are supposed to be soft rubber. If they feel like plastic... replace all 3, but especially the one attached to the ETA as it's nearly impossible to R&R with the ETA in place. Finally, a flexible-shaft 7mm driver like this will help loosen the MAF boot clamps, assuming the last guy in there oriented the clamps appropriately (forward, facing passenger side).
Here are the part no.s for those three hoses
119 094 71 82
119 094 55 82
119 094 44 82
I found by applying the gasket to the ETA and inserting the bolts the gasket stayed in place vs. positioning the gasket on the manifold where it can be moved or damaged by the edge of the ETA.
drew
119 094 71 82
119 094 55 82
119 094 44 82
I found by applying the gasket to the ETA and inserting the bolts the gasket stayed in place vs. positioning the gasket on the manifold where it can be moved or damaged by the edge of the ETA.
drew
He's the guy I bought the code reader from on eBay, the first one I could find who posted the YouTube on how to use it. Drove another 100 and now only thing popping up again is 11 blinks. What can I check for code 2, wires to NSS?
Sorry I didn't know if I'm allowed to post a link to one of the OTHER forums where that code 2 popped up and they narrowed it down to the wiring for the switch. My wiring seems intact and pliable though so yes I will stick to the ETA first instead of delving into that.
What do you think of the wheels good sir?
I couldn't figure out the part number for the 119 094 55 82 hose, thank you!
No. A one-year sentence is imposed in the Главное управление лагерей (ГУЛАГ) for proper “re-education” and rehabilitation — starting immediately.
Again, with a dozen possibilities for code 2, the other person fixed it with switch wiring... so you've got maybe a an 8% chance of yours being the same? Have you looked at the screenshot I posted yet?
16x8 ET35 (E500E/R129 wheels) can work with proper tire selection, fender rolling, and fender spacers. However ET11 will push the wheel a full inch outward. That is a very aggressive fitment and it will rub unless it's at stock ride height, you never have passengers or cargo, and never corner hard. It's ~15mm further out than anything AMG ever approved for the standard 124 chassis (click here, scroll to bottom).
Don't forget the connecting pieces and clamps. Click here, see post 3 and 6.
Almost guaranteed with 8.0, definitely guaranteed with ET11!!!
Yessir I did read it. I was just jumping ahead of myself thinking that it was wiring issues without having fixed the ETA first. I need to stop doing that. Are there any inexpensive reliable digital code readers out there to help narrow problems like that down? Or is SD the only option?
I was already on the edge for those wheels because every time I looked at them, they didn't look like the wheels they were replicas of. Especially the center cap. This is what the seller says the were replicas of, way off.
I was already on the edge for those wheels because every time I looked at them, they didn't look like the wheels they were replicas of. Especially the center cap. This is what the seller says the were replicas of, way off.
For a digital scanner, SDS (C3 or C4) with HHT-Win support is the only viable option. On the bright side that will work on all MB's through present day, or whatever date the software is anyway. It MUST have HHT-Win support for the 1990's cars though; be careful when shopping.
I almost split my head open on the driveway trying to scrape the ice off the windshield. To cheer myself up I found an empty parking lot to observe the effect of ice on the coefficient of friction. I did not expect this big of a car to have such control and grace while sideways
Throttle body replacement is going as smoothly as I expected it to. By that I mean I've broken most things that were going to break.
This spring was in backward, with the big loop on the linkage and immediately fell off whatever it was attached to. Luckily it didn't go flying. But I cant for the life of me figure out where it attached on the other side now.
This also snapped so I'm hoping I can attach a vacuum line to join these two pieces together. Is that okay or should I try to find the plastic straw thing from somewhere?
This spring was in backward, with the big loop on the linkage and immediately fell off whatever it was attached to. Luckily it didn't go flying. But I cant for the life of me figure out where it attached on the other side now.
This also snapped so I'm hoping I can attach a vacuum line to join these two pieces together. Is that okay or should I try to find the plastic straw thing from somewhere?
If necessary, patch the vacuum line... goes from rear/lower intake manifold, over to the EZL at the driver fender.
However, it should be replaced with fresh Tecalan (plastic) vacuum line, which is dirt cheap, few bucks per meter. It's not as easy to replace it with the ETA in place.
However, it should be replaced with fresh Tecalan (plastic) vacuum line, which is dirt cheap, few bucks per meter. It's not as easy to replace it with the ETA in place.
If you look in my top end rebuild project in the project journals sub-forum, you will see dozens of photos of the installation of the intake manifold, including plenty of photos on the spring installation and how it is oriented.
Check the following posts in the thread:
Here (disassembly)
Here (assembly)
Check the following posts in the thread:
Here (disassembly)
Here (assembly)
And thank you so much for that breakdown of the whole top end! I'll eventually get to that but always nice to know there's such a clear depiction of ALL the steps
Yeah, that's not accurate... AHAZ and RME claim to be selling "OEM", but it's a Hella (made in Spain) sensor. However the actual OEM of the OE (Genuine MB) sensor is either Bosch or AB Elektronic. Hella is OEM for different parts, like headlights & lenses. This is confusing, and misleading.OE Supplier is Hella for the crank position sensor, at least from AutohausAZ
More info here. Still waiting for kiev to receive his FCP "OEM" sensor...
Hmmm so it's no good? You're right, Spanish made
Attachments
It's not that it's not good. More like, given the importance of this part and weird issues it may cause, MB part (with the star or one ground off) is a safer bet
It isn't necessarily bad, just not "OEM". It's straight aftermarket, non-OEM. I know, this is picking nits, but the difference is that MB had nothing to do with approving the design or materials for the aftermarket item. Hella did whatever they wanted. My gripe is that AHAZ and RME are listing this as "OEM" when it absolutely is not. They may argue the point, but they'd be wrong.Hmmm so it's no good? You're right, Spanish made
If it makes you feel any better, I had 2 of these Spanish Hella CKP's on the shelf as spares, and when the original in one of my cars died (at over 200kmi), I installed the Hella-Spain unit a few weeks ago. Guess I'll find out how it works in the long run.
Normally I consider Hella to be good stuff, but they have been circling the drain over the past number of years, moving production to lower-cost countries. And I think Hella/Behr/Mahle are all in a tryst of some sort. What really concerns me is that the Hella CKP looks visually almost identical the the FAE sensor (click here). So is FAE reboxing Hella, or Hella reboxing FAE?
It's easy to break or crush that Tecalan line when installing the ETA. My SL had a curved rubber connector at the back of the intake which caused the line to push up towards the top of the intake putting it in the way. I changed the connector to a right angle one which kept the routing lower and out of the way.
Also, when harvesting the replacement ETA I had to cut the linkage as the ball socket refused to let go. Before re installing, I found the only way I could remove the old ball in socket fitting was to wash it out several times with brake cleaner. Most seem to come off without much trouble.
drew
Also, when harvesting the replacement ETA I had to cut the linkage as the ball socket refused to let go. Before re installing, I found the only way I could remove the old ball in socket fitting was to wash it out several times with brake cleaner. Most seem to come off without much trouble.
drew
That's exactly how mine was, pushing up towards the top end. Completely shattered while trying to patch it so I just got the plastic line as @gsxr suggested and will try to run it like you did whenever the weather clears up for the delivery people. Central Texas is completely frozen and I don't blame them for not trying to deliver in these conditions.
And I'm glad the one you sent has a nice and shiny ball. I get frustrated with people that try to patch things up the wrong way and pass the buck on to the next owner. I'm still discovering little things that were either put on wrong or replaced incorrectly. For me it still deserves to be treated like a Mercedes no matter the depreciation.
Fingers crossed that old girl will be up and running sooner than later.
P.S. I'm starting to look for a nice 5.0 motor to put on the side and refurbish. They're so cheap now that it's hard to resist the urge to maybe, possibly, probably do. I've been looking into all the advice given by the forum members here to the people who have done it and it seems much more doable than the GTE swap I just endured. Any advice for or against this route? As always, y'alls expert opinions are very welcome in my novice world.
And happy Valentine's day guys ❤
There are some old threads discussing this in more detail, should have all the info you need... but yes, the swap is 100% plug+play if you use the correct R129 engine, and get the 5.0L computers. However, I would swap the differential first, it's much cheaper & easier, and will make a big difference. If you have 5.0L and no ASR, you may want to also upgrade to Wavetrac which is going to add some $$$. Otherwise you'll get real familiar with the ol' One Wheel Peel.
Yes diffs have been a great way to make my slower cars feel a little faster. Just swapped a 4.1 into my IS300 and it made a world of a difference, with a torsen of course. I was looking at the differentials that could swap in without too much modification and honestly I royally confused myself. Closest I got to figuring that out was 1994 S420 with the 2.82 but no LSD right?
And this type of engine is direct swap? The M119.972 from what I've read from your posts. And I should be able to retrieve a fairly cheap one from a local salvage yard if I can't find one shipped to my house.
One wheel peels are not my favorite but I'll need bigger pockets to look at Wavetrac. Adjusting my driving habits will have to do until then.
92-95 MERCEDES R129 SL500 5.0L M119 119.972 V8 ENGINE MOTOR 130k | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 92-95 MERCEDES R129 SL500 5.0L M119 119.972 V8 ENGINE MOTOR 130k at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
And this type of engine is direct swap? The M119.972 from what I've read from your posts. And I should be able to retrieve a fairly cheap one from a local salvage yard if I can't find one shipped to my house.
One wheel peels are not my favorite but I'll need bigger pockets to look at Wavetrac. Adjusting my driving habits will have to do until then.
BE CAREFUL! You do indeed want a 119.972 engine, but that eBay listing shows a 119.960 CIS-E engine, which is completely different and will not work. The description is wrong and does not match the photos. Get photos of any engine you are considering buying, better yet the engine serial number stamping, before you buy anything.
If you want 2.82 specifically, I think the 140 chassis with 4.2L engine, from 92-94 are acceptable donors... but only *without* ASR. Need to swap the rear cover. Again, get photos before buying, make sure it has the single sensor at the pinion (non-ASR) and a pic of the ratio stamped on the housing.
If you want 2.82 specifically, I think the 140 chassis with 4.2L engine, from 92-94 are acceptable donors... but only *without* ASR. Need to swap the rear cover. Again, get photos before buying, make sure it has the single sensor at the pinion (non-ASR) and a pic of the ratio stamped on the housing.
All these liars on ebay. That's why I think I'll personally go to the junkyard to pick something out. I saw a 500E motor assembly on car-parts.com that looked really nice, in California, but if I don't get to put hands on it I won't believe them. I'm not trying to get stuck with a bigger project than I signed up for.
Which ones would swap over with maybe a 2.65 ratio? The 2.82 sounds like the best option but wouldn't hurt to shop around a bit. The 2.24? is great for highway but the sluggishness off the line isn't ideal. I'm also feeling slightly dyslexic when I'm looking at all these numbers.
Which ones would swap over with maybe a 2.65 ratio? The 2.82 sounds like the best option but wouldn't hurt to shop around a bit. The 2.24? is great for highway but the sluggishness off the line isn't ideal. I'm also feeling slightly dyslexic when I'm looking at all these numbers.
