OWNER JDAMG (400E)

[JDAMG]

Finally found a 400E! The journey begins

Found an ad for a 1992 400E (Smoke Silver/ Cream Beige) close to my home and had to check it out. My uncle had one of these when I was a kid and it is my first memory of a Mercedes Benz. After a couple hours of inspection and a hand shake I was the proud new owner. It had some issues, enough for me to tow it down to my parking lot at work instead of driving and for the past couple of months I have been slowly working through it issues. The first and easiest to diagnose was a rough running condition that was solved with distributor caps and rotors. Also corrected the power steering leak with a re seal of the pump and a new hose. Then things got interesting, and leads me to how I ended up on this forum.

When I purchased the car I noticed it did not have a fan shroud, but it didn't really stick in my mind. Little did I know how many hours I would lose to this issue. After finding out that the part was NLA, I began searching forums, even overseas, translating ads from Russia and Japan, emailing and still getting the same response. Granted I work for Mercedes Benz and really should have done my research on the shroud before I pulled the trigger but it was too good of a deal to pass up and I loved the car, so I rolled the dice.

Well that leads me to this past Saturday. I had actually bookmarked a few posts from this forum in the last few months, but did not spend a lot of time reading. I found a post that mentioned the lower fan shroud and that Drew "sheward" had one available. I quickly signed up, sent a pm and put a post in the want to buy section of the forum. Less than 10 minutes later I was on the phone with Drew. We have talked a lot since then and he has saved my project with the fan shroud on its way, also purchased some other goodies from him to have as spares. I can not thank him enough for his helpfulness.

For the last few days I have spent a lot of time reading the 500eboard, and I have learned a lot about this chassis and the m119. So thank you to everyone that contributes and for feeding my excitement as an owner. I cant wait to have all my issues sorted and to make this car a primary driver for me.

I still have some other OEM parts on order from Mercedes, such as new breather/pcv hoses, connectors and clamps as I am having a bit of a smoke issue under deceleration, which I believe it due to a botched repair on the hoses at some point, when they obviously just need to be replaced. I also ordered new valve cover gaskets just in case I have to open things up and inspect if the new hoses don't do the trick. I also need to find a solution for the exhaust as it is rotting away. Hopefully after those issues are resolved I can start working on the minor exterior and interior issues.

Anyway, sorry for such a long post, hopefully I can be a valuable contributor here as well. Here are some pics!

 

[sheward]

Great looking 034 Joe! Looks super clean. Love the Monoblocks. I'm going to look at a 95 parts car that took a front end hit Wednesday. I'll see if I can snag you a jack hole cover and have a look at the exhaust. Keep us posted on your progress.

drew

 

[MB V8]

Nice car, welcome to the forum.

I might have missed it, how many miles on your new ride? What size AMG wheels do you have on the car?

 

[Gatorblue92]

Beautiful car. What size tires are you running on those wheels?

 

[Jlaa]

Smoke Silver with the prefacelift accoutrements.... black impact strips, orange blinkers, etc .... looks better and better to my eye w each passing day!

 

[JDAMG]

Great looking 034 Joe! Looks super clean. Love the Monoblocks. I'm going to look at a 95 parts car that took a front end hit Wednesday. I'll see if I can snag you a jack hole cover and have a look at the exhaust. Keep us posted on your progress.

drew

Thanks Drew!

Nice car, welcome to the forum.

I might have missed it, how many miles on your new ride? What size AMG wheels do you have on the car?

The car is actually a Canadian spec, it shows 255,000 km which is about 158,000 miles. The AMG wheels are 17" staggered which I believe to be from a 208 chassis.

Beautiful car. What size tires are you running on those wheels?

Thanks! They are 225/45/17 on the front and 245/40/17 on the rear.

Smoke Silver with the prefacelift accoutrements.... black impact strips, orange blinkers, etc .... looks better and better to my eye w each passing day!

Thank you! I like the look as well, but have been thinking about the more orange euro spec front blinkers and going to a 500e taillight, or a eurospec OEM taillight.

 

[Jlaa]

Thank you! I like the look as well, but have been thinking about the more orange euro spec front blinkers and going to a 500e taillight, or a eurospec OEM taillight.

The euro spec orange front blinkers are a superior look. Go for it. The 400E and 500E taillights are the same. If you change to the Eurospec version of the tailights, ain’t noone gonna notice the difference (internal side marker/reflector difference)

What DOES look nice to my eye is if you remove the NA spec rear plastic license plate holder and revert to the simpler Euro spec looks. Look at rear photos of Euro 400E/500E and you will see what I mean.

 

[JDAMG]

The euro spec orange front blinkers are a superior look. Go for it. The 400E and 500E taillights are the same. If you change to the Eurospec version of the tailights, ain’t noone gonna notice the difference (internal side marker/reflector difference)

What DOES look nice to my eye is if you remove the NA spec rear plastic license plate holder and revert to the simpler Euro spec looks. Look at rear photos of Euro 400E/500E and you will see what I mean.

Thanks so much for the input! I will check out the license plate holder, and I see what you mean about the taillights.

 

[Jlaa]

Here you go: Rear License Plate Filler Panel - early w124.036 ?

 

[JDAMG]

Here you go: Rear License Plate Filler Panel - early w124.036 ?

Yes! I do prefer that look. Much cleaner. Also forgot to mention in my post about the headlight bezels/doors. Mine are yellowed and cracked. Even my cost at the dealer is expensive to replace these, have seen some aftermarket versions but I prefer to keep everything OEM if possible. So looking for those as well.

 

[Jlaa]

Also forgot to mention in my post about the headlight bezels/doors. Mine are yellowed and cracked. Even my cost at the dealer is expensive to replace these, have seen some aftermarket versions but I prefer to keep everything OEM if possible. So looking for those as well.

Just change out the whole headlamp assembly to the Euro spec versions?

 

[Jlaa]

I also ordered new valve cover gaskets just in case I have to open things up and inspect if the new hoses don't do the trick.

If you replace the valve cover gaskets, make sure you address the plastic timing chain guides and swap the oil tubes from plastic to metal if so fitted.

 

[gsxr]

While you're opening Pandora's box... I *always* drop the lower oil pan on a new M119 purchase, to inspect the pan for chain rail debris. While the pan is off, also replace the level sensor O-ring in the side of the block, this is a common leak and a new O-ring is only a couple bucks. Replacing the entire sender isn't a bad idea but that's ~$50 for OEM. If the rubber sump pickup is fossilized, replace that while you're in there. If there is rail debris, you MUST pull the valve covers for inspection up top.

 

[Jlaa]

While you're opening Pandora's box... I *always* drop the lower oil pan on a new M119 purchase, to inspect the pan for chain rail debris. While the pan is off, also replace the level sensor O-ring in the side of the block, this is a common leak and a new O-ring is only a couple bucks. Replacing the entire sender isn't a bad idea but that's ~$50 for OEM. If the rubber sump pickup is fossilized, replace that while you're in there. If there is rail debris, you MUST pull the valve covers for inspection up top.

While you drop the pan, you can quickly peel back the insulation of the lower wiring harness as it connects to the oil pressure sender. If the wiring is ecojunked, then replace...

 

[Kyiv]

Just change out the whole headlamp assembly to the Euro spec versions?

Depo?

 

[gsxr]

While you drop the pan, you can quickly peel back the insulation of the lower wiring harness as it connects to the oil pressure sender. If the wiring is ecojunked, then replace...

Lower .034 harness is NLA, but Blue Ridge rebuilds them. If the insulation isn't totally falling off, you can leave it alone for now, but watch it closely...

 

[Jlaa]

Lower .034 harness is NLA, but Blue Ridge rebuilds them. If the insulation isn't totally falling off, you can leave it alone for now, but watch it closely...

... and while we are on this topic as you are fussing with wiring harness, when you have the valve covers off, check the upper wiring harness too. If ecojunk then replace. Also check ETA which is right there in between the Vee... specifically the wiring to the ETA. If you have the big pancake connector, you are probably ok. If you have the small pencil connector, it is probably ecojunked, so please consider getting it rebuilt.

 

[JDAMG]

Just change out the whole headlamp assembly to the Euro spec versions?

I am sure I can search, but is this an easy swap, just the headlights? or do i need units with the wipers integrated as well?
I will also check the timing chain guides and oil tubes, I suspect this could also be an issue with my "smoking". I will also be sure to check the wiring harnesses, I believe the upper has already been replaced, but have not checked the lower.

While you're opening Pandora's box... I *always* drop the lower oil pan on a new M119 purchase, to inspect the pan for chain rail debris. While the pan is off, also replace the level sensor O-ring in the side of the block, this is a common leak and a new O-ring is only a couple bucks. Replacing the entire sender isn't a bad idea but that's ~$50 for OEM. If the rubber sump pickup is fossilized, replace that while you're in there. If there is rail debris, you MUST pull the valve covers for inspection up top.

Okay adding those items to my list for when I get it in the shop. The oil pickup could also be a suspect with my smoking issue I suppose?

 

[JDAMG]

Okay so here is the shop list/ plan of attack and parts ordered thus far.

• Install new fan shroud complete
• Turn transmission ½ forward (have been adjusting slightly)
• Replace all breather hoses on top of engine
• Check ETA between Vee, the wiring to the ETA (pancake connector?)
• Drop lower oil pan, check for chain rail debris
• Replace level sensor o- ring in the side of block
• Rubber sump pickup? Replace If needed
• If rail debris, must inspect under valve covers
• Replace timing chain guides
• Oil tubes if plastic replace to metal
• Check both upper and lower wiring harnesses
• Body clips on front doors
• Replace mirror rubber

Parts List ordered:

Lower and upper fan shroud
Timing chain guides
Breather hoses, clamps and connectors
Body clips
Level sensor interior o ring seal in lower pan
Lower oil pan gasket
Oil tubes under valve covers
Mirror rubber
Rubber sump pick up sleeve with screen

 

[Jlaa]

• Check ETA between Vee, the wiring to the ETA (pancake connector?)

These are from @gsxr's www.w124performance.com website, but since I have an allergic reaction to his ls -al or dir style of user-interface, I just mirrored everything locally --- which explains me uploading these images from @gsxr.

 

[gsxr]

Converting to Euro-spec headlamps requires either deleting the wipers, or sourcing Euro wipers. Problem is, the Euro wiper blades are NLA and used parts are getting really scarce. Installing / painting a blank panel after deleting the wipers is the easy way out. Depo lights (Taiwan) are ok, and very inexpensive, but it would be nice to source Bosch or Hella if possible. Either way, apply Lamin-X film to the glass lenses - cheap insurance.

Plastic oil tubes, if one fails, results in a loud ticking noise at idle. The only source for metal tubes is aftermarket, or used factory tubes. IMO this is low priority, but if you have the time and $$$ while you're in there, great. Your 1992 model MIGHT have metal tubes already, so stick a flashlight into the oil fill hole and check.

The oil tubes, sump pickup, and chain rails will have absolutely no effect on smoking. If you are getting blue smoke out the exhaust, it COULD be something related to the PCV system (hoses from valve covers to intake manifold), or the valve cover baffles. If the smoke persists after replacing the PCV hoses, you may have something weird going on with valve stem seals, or other oddities. Pull all the spark plugs and see if any are significantly more oily than the others - note that some oil on the plug theads is normal, you're looking at the insulator.

Also, your 1992 car should have the large "pancake" connector on the ETA. The wiring is USUALLY fine on these, but the ETA can still have internal parts that fail or wear out. You haven't mentioned if your car has optional ASR, but if so, a bad ETA can cause limp mode. If the ETA has a later date code it's probably fine, for now.

 

[JDAMG]

Converting to Euro-spec headlamps requires either deleting the wipers, or sourcing Euro wipers. Problem is, the Euro wiper blades are NLA and used parts are getting really scarce. Installing / painting a blank panel after deleting the wipers is the easy way out. Depo lights (Taiwan) are ok, and very inexpensive, but it would be nice to source Bosch or Hella if possible. Either way, apply Lamin-X film to the glass lenses - cheap insurance.

Plastic oil tubes, if one fails, results in a loud ticking noise at idle. The only source for metal tubes is aftermarket, or used factory tubes. IMO this is low priority, but if you have the time and $$$ while you're in there, great. Your 1992 model MIGHT have metal tubes already, so stick a flashlight into the oil fill hole and check.

The oil tubes, sump pickup, and chain rails will have absolutely no effect on smoking. If you are getting blue smoke out the exhaust, it COULD be something related to the PCV system (hoses from valve covers to intake manifold), or the valve cover baffles. If the smoke persists after replacing the PCV hoses, you may have something weird going on with valve stem seals, or other oddities. Pull all the spark plugs and see if any are significantly more oily than the others - note that some oil on the plug theads is normal, you're looking at the insulator.

Also, your 1992 car should have the large "pancake" connector on the ETA. The wiring is USUALLY fine on these, but the ETA can still have internal parts that fail or wear out. You haven't mentioned if your car has optional ASR, but if so, a bad ETA can cause limp mode. If the ETA has a later date code it's probably fine, for now.

Really excellent information! I believe my smoking issue is related to the PCV system. The hoses are all gummed up at the connectors, which looks like someone used some putty like substance to plug a leak at some point, they are all getting replaced. I am hoping it is not a valve stem seal issue or something else, the smoke usually only shows it self after a prolonged period of highway driving followed by a period of deceleration. My guess is a clogged drain or hose.

From visual memory I believe I do have the pancake connector on the ETA. But I will double check. I do have ACR but no issues with it currently, and have not experience limp mode.

I also replaced the spark plugs and did not find anything abnormal.

 

[northNH]

As the conversation has strayed far from 400E’s and ETA’s, this is perhaps a good place and time to wonder aloud:

I have removed the ETA (000 141 7925, dated 11/91, pancake connector) from my 90K mile ’92 ASR 400E parts car that ~8 years ago was reportedly running well on the way to it’s minor front end crunch that immediately and subsequently took it of the road.
Without any exploratory surgery, it’s wiring appears entirely intact, as well as it’s mechanical functioning.

As it has little spare-on-the-shelf value for my ‘94 E420, I wonder what is it’s future...

 

[gsxr]

7h47 15 0k4y. 1 w111 134v3 7h3 m4d 11nux 5k1112 70 7h3 11nux j0ck3y5 wh0 7h1nk 7h47 7h3y 423 7h3 5h17. 1 h4v3 09 5k1112 7h47 p23d473 11nux.

Sadly, I understood that.

As the conversation has strayed far from 400E’s and ETA’s, this is perhaps a good place and time to wonder aloud:

I have removed the ETA (000 141 7925, dated 11/91, pancake connector) from my 90K mile ’92 ASR 400E parts car that ~8 years ago was reportedly running well on the way to it’s minor front end crunch that immediately and subsequently took it of the road.
Without any exploratory surgery, it’s wiring appears entirely intact, as well as it’s mechanical functioning.

As it has little spare-on-the-shelf value for my ‘94 E420, I wonder what is it’s future...

It would be a useful spare for a pre-facelift 034/036 with ASR. Again, despite the wires being OK, internal components can eventually wear out... but it may work fine, if it was still working OK when removed. If you don't plan on owning a pre-facelift ASR 034/036, you could always post it in the classifieds.

 

[JDAMG]

Well 51 of my 53 parts have arrived from Mercedes, waiting on my timing chain "slides". Drew's package with my fan shroud, o2 sensor, and some other goodies will be arriving sometime tomorrow. Looking forward to getting to work.

I guess this is my attempt to get this thread back on track. Or at least speak english instead of Linux.

 

[JDAMG]

All 53 parts have arrived and just checked Fedex and Drew's package is actually scheduled to be delivered tonight ! Like a kid on christmas eve, I wait.

 

[JDAMG]

Got the valve covers off today and found some buildup in the oil drain under the right cover toward the firewall, I believe this will be related to my smoking issue as it is not properly draining/venting. Replacing the oil tubes and the timing chain guides while I am there, no broken pieces on the guides and no blown out oil tubes but figure it to be good maintenance since I am already there. Will be replacing all the breather hoses as well. Hoping for great results. Once step closer to the road.

 

[nocfn]

are you referencing this unit

 

[JDAMG]

are you referencing this unit
View attachment 91083

Yes I am! New one arriving tomorrow. Was excited that one was available! There were actually 2 in my closest PDC. When removed I found that is was not letting any fluid through the unit.

 

[nocfn]

I think it is a common issue upon installing the valve cover. Somewhere in the how to from GVZ he writes about the seperator, or others speak of the install.

 

[Kyiv]

I

are you referencing this unit
View attachment 91083

What is this, how many does one need per bank of cylinders, and - because my arrogance has no limit - what is the part number for 93 400E? I'm planning to do my valve cover gaskets next week. Thanks

 

[gsxr]

Courtesy of IslandMon in a different thread:

Oil separator (plastic part): A1190100062​

Rubber funnel mounted on top of the separator: A1190160181​

Under the passenger side valve cover only. Nothing on the driver side.

 

[JDAMG]

Update:

Got everything closed up today as per my valve covers/ smoking issue. The issue has been solved. Between the new oil separator and the funnel, and all new vacuum hoses up top, the smoking has gone away! I am very happy about this as you would imagine. I also did not change the oil tubes as the existing tubes were metal and none were causing an issue.

I still need to install my fan shroud, perform a trans service, replace the 02 sensor, fix my exhaust, replace my mirror rubber, and replace my leaky oil level sensor.

I have added some additional work to my to-do list as well:

Replace hood insulation
Replace coolant reservoir (the metal tube is starting to poke out)
Re-upholster the interior b pillar
Align and balance wheels

Also I am still considering my options for headlights: door replacement, or full euro replacement

I will slowly accomplish these things as the new year comes, but I am very excited to have what seemed to be my biggest issue resolved with the smoking.

 

[JDAMG]

First night in the garage, I removed all of the gunk around the body seal of the trunk and cleaned the fuel door area.

 

[JDAMG]

Another update:

Transmission service has been performed, replaced the coolant tank and flushed the coolant again, installed the new fan shroud and replaced the oil level sensor as it was leaking which required dropping the lower oil pan, so installed a new oil pan gasket as well.

While I was working underneath I noticed a leak from the condenser, ouch, that one hurt even at my cost, but it now has a fresh OEM replacement.

I also had a new custom exhaust installed, was hoping to just replace a section of pipe where it had rotted, but upon further inspection everything after the cats was rotted. Not my first choice but had to do something and OEM was just to cost prohibitive at this time.

I still need to install my new o2 sensor as the car is running a bit rich and I suspect that is the cause.

Also looking at solutions for the stereo, as I would like to have bluetooth capability but I know it is not as simple as replacing the head unit on a 1992.

Still also have a brand new hood pad waiting to be installed when I get the time and an extra set of hands.

As always, any tips are appreciated! Thanks!!

 

[Kyiv]

Also looking at solutions for the stereo, as I would like to have bluetooth capability but I know

This place modifies stock head unit for Bluetooth:

Becker Auto Sound LLC | Sound System Repairs Saddle Brook NJ

201-773-0976 - Find the sound system repair experts for your vehicles at Becker Auto Sound LLC.

www.beckerautosound.com

replaced the oil level sensor as it was leaking

Can just the seals be replaced, keeping the old sensor, with out dropping oil pan?

 

[sheward]

I believe our early head units can be sent to Becker to have them install Bluetooth capability or at least an iPhone port. Do a search for more info on this.
Post some pics of the exhaust system if you get the chance.

drew

 

[sheward]

Kiev saved you the effort.

drew

 

[JDAMG]

This place modifies stock head unit for Bluetooth:

Becker Auto Sound LLC | Sound System Repairs Saddle Brook NJ

201-773-0976 - Find the sound system repair experts for your vehicles at Becker Auto Sound LLC.

www.beckerautosound.com

Thanks!

Can just the seals be replaced, keeping the old sensor, with out dropping oil pan?

It is my understanding that the seals used to be available on their own, but now you need to get the level sensor to get the seals. I replaced the entire sensor with new seals.

 

[gsxr]

The oil level sender O-ring(s) are sold separately, but you must drop the lower pan to access the large O-ring and/or replace the sending unit. If the sender is old or original, replacing the entire assembly is recommended since plastic generally is brittle after 25-30 years in a harsh environment.

The small O-ring on the outer portion is only for the electrical connection, to keep it clean.

 

[vatc5637]

RE: alternative bluetooth headunit if the Becker does not appeal to you, this Continental drops right in, though you might have some wiring to do if the harness has been previously hacked up. I put one ('93) in a few months ago without too much drama and like it very much.

Finally a stereo in my car.My new Continental head unit mounted :)Happy camper | In-Car Entertainment (ICE)

hey there Im so happy today..as i got myself together and mounted up my new Continental head unit. All the original stereo stuff have been taken out of the car at some point,and just speakers and wiring left. So today ..i at least got to put in my head unit,and for now its just the front...

www.500eboard.co

 

[Kyiv]

RE: alternative bluetooth headunit if the Becker does not appeal to you, this Continental drops right in, though you might have some wiring to do if the harness has been previously hacked up. I put one ('93) in a few months ago without too much drama and like it very much.

Finally a stereo in my car.My new Continental head unit mounted :)Happy camper | In-Car Entertainment (ICE)

hey there Im so happy today..as i got myself together and mounted up my new Continental head unit. All the original stereo stuff have been taken out of the car at some point,and just speakers and wiring left. So today ..i at least got to put in my head unit,and for now its just the front...

www.500eboard.co

Is it plug-and-play for pre-facelift cars with Becker 1432?

 

[northNH]

NOTHING IS

 

[Kyiv]

@northNH, I knew it. I guess I was hoping for some serendipity

 

[JDAMG]

UPDATE:

Finally got some things checked off my list and back to driving the 400E.

The biggest headache was replacing the o2 sensor as it was original or at least very old. After many attempts otherwise, replacement required the exhaust to come completely out of the vehicle, a torch and a lot of time but was finally freed. The bung also required re threading as it was rusted and broken down, fortunately that was a successful operation. The result was a less rich running vehicle with better fuel economy.

I also replaced the radiator hoses as they were starting to deform a bit, most likely from age and reaching some higher temps when I first picked it up while diagnosing some cooling issues.

The last project for now was replacing the shocks and struts. I replaced all four corners with Bilstein B4, based on research this would keep the factory style ride and a reasonable cost. So far, it feels period correct and I am happy with the results.

I have a few more projects on my radar, luckily they seem small in comparison.

1. Reupholstering the interior B pillars
2. Paint correction (will be going to a pro for this)
3. Painting the jack hole covers as mine are a variety of colors
4. Detailing engine bay
5. Paining the wiper arm as it has some surface rust
6. Replacing the coolant overflow line
7. Replacing the AC push buttons as the ac temp scroller doesnt work (luckily it stays on cold)
8. Refitting the lower body cladding with new clips
9. Sourcing and replacing the antenna

As always if anyone has any input on the above please chime in! I have found the DIY for the b pillars and the overflow line.

It has been so enjoyable bringing this car back to life. I once again thank you for all the information provided here on this forum, it is extremely helpful and everyone I have had contact with has been great! Cheers to more projects.

 

[LWB250]

B pillars aren't difficult, but time consuming. Be sure to use the proper 3M contact cement so you're not disappointed in a year or two when they start peeling again.

You might want to consider finding a replacement wiper arm, part number 124 820 43 44, I believe. They are pretty plentiful and you might be able to find a used one with a good finish on it on eBay or elsewhere. Have you checked on a new one? They're about $100 if you want to go that route.

If you replace the coolant overflow line, be sure to use the proper size (metric) hose. A good source for all metric hoses and fasteners is Belmetric and their prices are pretty reasonable. I usually stock up when I order from them to save on shipping.

Ask around here, there are people who scrounge stuff like antennas. If you only need a mast they're easy to replace.

Good luck! Sounds like you're making good progress.

Dan

 

[JDAMG]

It has been a while since I have updated this thread, but as of yesterday I have COVID-19 so I have some extra time on my hands.

Shortly into August I developed a whine in the power steering. I took it into my shop and found the power steering gearbox was puking fluid. The debate took place as to replace or re-seal. The plan was to re-seal but a busier than normal few months at the shop, along with a lack of desire to down a lift for a week led me to nowhere.

Fast forward to December and I had enough waiting, so I contacted Pierre Hedary in Titusville, FL. He is about 45 minutes south of me and he promptly came up to inspect the vehicle. We determined to pull the box and attempt a reseal, as well as me ordering the oil pressure sending unit to fix a minor oil leak.

After the appropriate parts were received I sent the car down to Pierre. Later that day he contacted me to tell me the box was out, but the seal that was leaking was not with my bag of parts, because it was not a listed part on EPC. We found the part number and I overnighted the part, met with Pierre to give it to him and then determined it was still not correct.

The next step was to find a rebuilt box, Pierre pointed me to C and M out in Vegas, we got the box shipped and Pierre put it in immediately. Test drove and I had the vehicle picked back up.

Pierre was great with communication, pricing and was very fair with his time. I was completely satisfied with the repair and the car now drives as it should.

After owning this car for over a year I have started my "OCD" cleaning procedure that every used car I have ever purchased has received. I have about 4 hours into that so far, which included the drivers interior door panel and the center console. LOTS of hours to go!

Also have most of the previous to-do items left from my list in the previous post from July. The car just sat idle since August, but excited to get back on it once I recover from COVID.

Also I am looking for a set of factory wheels to go on this car, I love the look of the monoblocks but I really want to experience this vehicle as it was meant to be from the factory so please let me know if you have something like that, and even better if you want to work out a deal involving the 17" monoblocks that are currently on my car. Thanks!

 

[gerryvz]

Best wishes for a speedy recovery!

 

[JDAMG]

Best wishes for a speedy recovery!

Thank you Gerry

 

[a777fan]

Yes, best wishes for a quick recovery!

Nice looking 400! These machines are quite excellent when you get them back into shape.