What’s your best buy DIY garage tools?

[ace10]

Speaking of shelving...

Costco has one ton shelving units on sale this week.

https://www.costco.com/.product.100393028.html?&EMID=B2C_2018_1205_DailyDealsDay6

2X8X7 for $190 delivered. On Backorder.

 

[ace10]

The price of LED lighting continues to decline at a rapid pace.

I ordered (3) more of the small size lights I posted about previously. There are 3 sizes in my installation.

Twelve months ago I paid $95 per, which was a "bulk" price point. The three I ordered today were $73.50 each. And that was the published pricing.

16500 lumens, 110 watts, dimmable, 4000K

Low cost, High quality LED lighting.

Yes, the units are made in China. Yes, I absolutely try to avoid buying China. But there simply isn't anything approaching a cost-effective domestic solution.

View attachment 77997

4000K, which I prefer for general/utility space. Not too blue, not too yellow.
There's about 300,000 lumens in this garage. Fully dimmable via 0-10v combo dimmer units from Legrande Adorne.
The picture shows the lights at ~50%. I had to use two zones due to load limits on the 15A 110v runs.

Lights are mounted on short 3/4" threaded conduit, rather than the chain mounts which are standard. Ceilings are 12' and then 17' in the high bay.

Sourced from this site.
https://www.ledlightingwholesaleinc.com/LED-High-Bays-LED-Low-Bays-s/150.htm

If you call and speak to a Sales Rep they will very likely offer even better pricing.
Thirteen fixtures were right around $1400 shipped, including the optional drop mount brackets.

I didn't know what to expect with lighting this "cheap." I expected DOA units, inconsistent color, and/or poor dimming.
The entire order was perfect. I plan to grab some spares and also retrofit my other garage to these same product line, albeit the smaller units.

Over the past couple years, I've become a complete lighting junkie/geek. I'm all in on LED. One of the best moves I've done is modifying the fluoro lighting in my machine shed to LED tubes. Instant on. And they work in the cold.

 

[nocfn]

nice titles mods....

 

[gsxr]

Over the past couple years, I've become a complete lighting junkie/geek. I'm all in on LED. One of the best moves I've done is modifying the fluoro lighting in my machine shed to LED tubes. Instant on. And they work in the cold.

Ace, what is your favorite LED tube to retrofit into old flourescent fixtures (T8/T12)? It's not much more to get complete LED fixtures of similar size, so I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle to re-wire the old stuff for new tubes.

 

[LWB250]

Ace, what is your favorite LED tube to retrofit into old flourescent fixtures (T8/T12)? It's not much more to get complete LED fixtures of similar size, so I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle to re-wire the old stuff for new tubes.

I may have mentioned this previously, but Costco had a good deal on 4' LED shop light fixtures this time last year, under $20/each. You might want to check and see if they're doing it again. I loaded up on them to replace my fluorescents and I really love them. You can't have enough light when working in the garage...

Dan

 

[gsxr]

Dan, was it these Feets? Looks like $20/ea plus tax with the current sale:
https://www.costco.com/Feit-4'-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-2-pack.product.100410429.html

Interesting comment on the video...

loved them until the lightning strike. Took out all of my LED shop lights and under cabinet LED puck lights. Apparently the voltage surge blew the capacitors because when I restored power the shop lights started smoking! I opened them up and the circuitry was covered with oil.

[video=youtube;ZbvL3HP5RTs]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbvL3HP5RTs[/video]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbvL3HP5RTs

 

[ace10]

Ace, what is your favorite LED tube to retrofit into old flourescent fixtures (T8/T12)? It's not much more to get complete LED fixtures of similar size, so I'm not sure if it's worth the hassle to re-wire the old stuff for new tubes.

The easiest way is to go with the ballast compatible tubes. They're plug and play, but they cost more. And generally aren't offered in a large selection of temps and output. I went that route on the first fixture I converted, and haven't done it since. I still have a stack of Phillips ballast compatible tubes that I never installed. They're fine, but I prefer bypassing and not having that ballast in there sucking up energy.

If the tombstones on your fixtures are in good condition and they're the proper type... non-shunted, then just bypass the ballasts and convert the fixtures. It takes maybe 20-30 minutes for the first one, then maybe 10 going forward. Not including cleaning everything.

In my machine shed, I found maybe 1 in 4 tombstombs were burnt up or cracked. Cheap and quick to R&R.

In terms of tube mfgs, I don't think there's one mfg who is vastly superior than the rest. Unlike bulbs, where SORAA is the shizz.

If you go the new fixture route, and don't like the color or output, then you're kinda stuck. At least with tubes, you can play with all the variables with a much smaller investment of $$ and time.

I'm super picky about color and CRI. I find high-spec tubes to be better than most budget fixtures.

$0.02

 

[ace10]

Dan, was it these Feets? Looks like $20/ea plus tax with the current sale:
https://www.costco.com/Feit-4'-Linkable-LED-Shop-Light-2-pack.product.100410429.html

Feit makes a decent product. I searched for the spec sheet on that fixture but couldn't find it. Was looking for CRI rating. Found a very similar unit on the Feit site, and it was 80 CRI. Which is Low. But that's part of the bargain with a budget fixture.

Higher quality bulbs and tubes are available in the 85-90 range. SORAA's are in the 95 range. There are CRI 99's out there, but clearly that's for professional applications.

 

[gsxr]

Learn somethin' new every day!
https://www.flexfireleds.com/color-rendering-index-cri-and-led-lighting-what-is-cri/

I had been eyeing these to try out, price is down to $100 for a 4-pack. Rated 4800 lumen, 40 watt, 5000k, >85 CRI, pretty good reviews:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QQDPR9/

 

[jftu105]

One of the best tools I have acquired is the offset wrench. I have a 17mm and a 19mm (snapon). The offset tool allows me to put the wrench on a bolt and then attach an extension perpendicular to it. From there, a breakbar can be attached. For so many DIY jobs under the car, such as removing the center link, engine mounts, transmission mount (the top nut is a killer), with limited space, these tools make the job possible.

Another DIY tools for DIY jobs is a liquid sucking tank, modified from a garden sprayer. With it, I can remove the coolant off the reservoir instead of draining it under the radiator. This makes the coolant reuse much easier and I don't create any mess with coolant spills. A tube can be inserted through the reservoir, all the way done to near the bottom of the radiator to remove nearly 3 quarts of coolant, enough for jobs such as replacing hoses. I can also open the radiator hose to suck more coolant out if I need to replace the radiator.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

That reminds me... I picked up a Mityvac MVA6851 Fluid Extractor to replace the turkey basters I've used for years, to siphon small amounts of liquid from the P/S reservoir and brake fluid reservoirs. I got tired of the basters only holding small amounts so I'd have to use it ten times to get all the fluid, and eventually the squeeze bulb leaks. The MityVac works great, holds enough to get all the fluid out in one pull, and is easy to disassemble & clean. Relatively inexpensive too, and uses standard nylon tube that you can buy in bulk for easy replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6851-Fluid-Extractor-x/dp/B00MPQ8RBG

 

[jftu105]

I have several fluid extractors. One is the Topsider, bought for $50, for oil extraction, such as engine oil, transmission fluid, and power steering fluid. Then, I built a liquid extractor out of a garden sprayer for coolant extraction. Finally, I also built a power bleeder out of a garden sprayer for brake fluid replacement. This conversion for brake fluid bleeding is actually easier than converting it for fluid extraction. These DIY tools serve me well over the years to maintain my fleet of four E320, 1994-5. Still hoping to get a cabriolet to make it five! 500E is out of my league.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

One more tool to share. I converted the spokes for bicycle wheels to a tool for removing the instrument cluster. Basically, I attached a piece of wood to the spoke and held it with the end threads. The tool easily goes behind the instrument cluster on one side. Two of them make the pulling so much easier. I had to replace the speedometer and the clock for at least two of my E320.

jftu105

 

[nocfn]

I fabbed similar with metal clothes hanger and flattened the tubular ends about 3' with a dremmel. (not the cleaners type but heavy old fashioned metal)

 

[JC220]

One more tool to share. I converted the spokes for bicycle wheels to a tool for removing the instrument cluster. Basically, I attached a piece of wood to the spoke and held it with the end threads. The tool easily goes behind the instrument cluster on one side. Two of them make the pulling so much easier. I had to replace the speedometer and the clock for at least two of my E320.

jftu105

I got a pair of the MB hooks for that - they are quite cheap actually from a dealer. I paid around 10 - 15 USD roughly IIRC for a pair



+ you feel like GSXR for just a moment

 

[samiam44]

Those off-sets are nice tools.

Lots of ppl buy or make one for doing the top mm bolt. I've got a cheap 17mm, but I was able to find a used SAE set. They are common in the aviation world. It was the magic free- missing one, but it comes on a piece of square stock with snap retainers(aka like keep your sockets on a extension) and it's been a million times handy. It was invalueable doing my W211 suspension and motor mounts and getting everything torqued. Like this:

https://www.zoro.com/proto-socket-set-38-in-dr-9-pc-j5100/i/G2184314/

Other one should be some gear wrenches. I have one 16mm/18 mm which is 18 inches long and perfect. 10mm and 17mm sockets. I've got flex sockets, ultra short, regular, short-deep, deep... never seem to have too many for hard places.

 

[LWB250]

I got a pair of the MB hooks for that - they are quite cheap actually from a dealer. I paid around 10 - 15 USD roughly IIRC for a pair


View attachment 83959
+ you feel like GSXR for just a moment

I did the coat hangar trick for years, and finally broke down and bought a pair of the “official” MB hooks. What a great tool! Not only can you use them for pulling clusters, they’re great for stretching springs, catching stuff that’s in tight spots, etc. I seem to find new uses for them weekly.

Dan

 

[gerryvz]

Yep, the MB hooks with the 140 part number are the way to go, or the GSXR-Uncle-Kent hooks available via gsxrmercedessource.com

 

[ace10]

I had been eyeing these to try out, price is down to $100 for a 4-pack. Rated 4800 lumen, 40 watt, 5000k, >85 CRI, pretty good reviews:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074QQDPR9/

Those fixtures are a decent value, IMO. Provided, you want 5000K. Make sure you're comfortable with that end of the temperature spectrum. I find it very blue. But everyone's preference is different and I've noticed that two people can see a lighting setup and describe it quite differently in terms of temperature.

For cost comparison, you can find equivalent output LED tubes for less $$. Call it 8X$10.

 

[BigWillieStyle]

I got a pair of the MB hooks for that - they are quite cheap actually from a dealer. I paid around 10 - 15 USD roughly IIRC for a pair


View attachment 83959
+ you feel like GSXR for just a moment

MB Hooks look like Taint Ticklers. Just sayin'

Ok I'll stop.

Sent from my MI MAX 2 using Tapatalk

 

[gerryvz]

Uncle Kent Hooks: https://mercedessource.com/store/r1...24-r129-w140-instrument-cluster-removal-tools

Even more expensive than the factory tools !!

I believe these are GSXR-approved.

 

[LWB250]

Uncle Kent Hooks: https://mercedessource.com/store/r1...24-r129-w140-instrument-cluster-removal-tools

Even more expensive than the factory tools !!

I believe these are GSXR-approved.

Well, at least you don't have to pay to watch the video....

Dan

 

[alabbasi]

I think that the Chinese are getting an unfair wrap. I know a few Chinese people and can honestly say that I've never met any who have a half a$$ work ethic, actually it's quite the opposite. If you're seeing lower quality product from China, it's because western European and Americans want to pay rock bottom dollar for their crap and it's not enough for western companies to 1/2 their manufacturing costs by moving their factories to the far east. They want to make it for 1/10th of the cost.

The Chinese , like anybody else will build whatever the consumer wants and if they want a 3/8 metric socket set with sockets ranging from 10mm-21mm for $9.99, they'll make it for you. If you want Snapon or Hazlet quality, they'll do that too as both Hazlet and Snapon has been sourcing from the Far East for years.

 

[gerryvz]

There are PLENTY of cases of Chinese companies blatantly stealing other companies’ hard-earned intellectual property (or forcing non-Chinese companies to hand over their IP as a condition of doing business in the Chinese market), and using that to produce cut-rate knock-off faux products.

It’s not about Chinese people, it’s about their business practices, philosophy and corruption.

And even worse, I hold people like the Seeman family, which owns APA/URO Parts, even more accountable because they knowingly and very deliberately sell sub-par junk to price conscious consumers without a care in the world. They contract Chinese firms to create faux parts so the Seeman family can profit and laugh all the way to the bank.

Most consumers don’t know the difference between a quality product and crap, and don’t even bother to think (or care) about where it is made.

I’ll bet that 98% of the members of this forum have a Chinese-made pair of Nike or other sneakers in their closets.

Not me. I refuse to support Chinese companies wherever and whenever I can. Only US-made New Balance, Allen Edmonds and German-Made Birkenstock shoes are found in my closet.

Some things are unavoidable, but I really try to support US companies (think of my Big Ass Fans handheld light vs. the cheap Harbor Fright lights that people so love in the Favorite Tools thread) when I can.

“If it smells like the ‘Fright, get it out of my sight!”

 

[Stevester 500E]

So, if you cook turkey for X-mas dinner, you now have a high capacity turkey baster, effectively, killing two birds with one stone.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MVA6851-Fluid-Extractor-x/dp/B00MPQ8RBG[/URL]

 

[Stevester 500E]

These are great, too bad I only have one....what happened to the other one?
I am still waiting for it to show up somewhere....

I got a pair of the MB hooks for that - they are quite cheap actually from a dealer. I paid around 10 - 15 USD roughly IIRC for a pair


View attachment 83959
+ you feel like GSXR for just a moment

 

[Jlaa]

There are PLENTY of cases of Chinese companies blatantly stealing other companies’ hard-earned intellectual property (or forcing non-Chinese companies to hand over their IP as a condition of doing business in the Chinese market), and using that to produce cut-rate knock-off faux products.

It’s not about Chinese people, it’s about their business practices, philosophy and corruption.

And even worse, I hold people like the Seeman family, which owns APA/URO Parts, even more accountable because they knowingly and very deliberately sell sub-par junk to price conscious consumers without a care in the world. They contract Chinese firms to create faux parts so the Seeman family can profit and laugh all the way to the bank.

Most consumers don’t know the difference between a quality product and crap, and don’t even bother to think (or care) about where it is made.

I’ll bet that 98% of the members of this forum have a Chinese-made pair of Nike or other sneakers in their closets.

Not me. I refuse to support Chinese companies wherever and whenever I can. Only US-made New Balance, Allen Edmonds and German-Made Birkenstock shoes are found in my closet.

Some things are unavoidable, but I really try to support US companies (think of my Big Ass Fans handheld light vs. the cheap Harbor Fright lights that people so love in the Favorite Tools thread) when I can.

“If it smells like the ‘Fright, get it out of my sight!”

I'm 100% American and ethnically Chinese and I refuse to buy "Made in China" food items at my grocery store. However, I buy plenty of "Made in Taiwan" or "Made in HK" food items.
Actually if you spend much time in China, you will find that the Chinese people themselves much prefer foreign brands over local brands (of, say, cars....) because they don't trust local business practices.

The thing where this gets tricky though is if you give the impression that only China "cheats" and that because of China's history of IP theft that all China should be demonized. If you go down that route, that starts to offend Chinese people's sense of pride and history ---- Chinese people will start to bring up times in history where the West exploited and stole from China - i.e. The UK stealing from China via the Opium wars, or The US / Germany / France / etc. raping China from the wars during the Boxer Rebellion.

Anyways - this whole topic is tricky and I try my best to avoid making sweeping generalizations. Kind of.

 

[alabbasi]

I’ll bet that 98% of the members of this forum have a Chinese-made pair of Nike or other sneakers in their closets.

I bet 98% of forum members have a Chinese-made SDS in their closet and are quite happy about it even though it's somebody else's IP

I'm 100% American and ethnically Chinese and I refuse to buy "Made in China" food items at my grocery store. However, I buy plenty of "Made in Taiwan" or "Made in HK" food items.

I stopped eating Chinese food when I moved to the US but I still go to China Town to eat every time I visit London. It really has the best Chinese food in the world.

 

[Jlaa]

I still go to China Town to eat every time I visit London. It really has the best Chinese food in the world.

You might as well just say BMW is way better than Mercedes-Benz, and that the w124 is about on par with a 1976 Ford Pinto, I mean an Austin Princess.
Everything on Shaftesbury / Leicester / Charing Cross / Rubert is about as good as URO.

 

[alabbasi]

You might as well just say BMW is way better than Mercedes-Benz, and that the w124 is about on par with a 1976 Ford Pinto, I mean an Austin Princess.
Everything on Shaftesbury / Leicester / Charing Cross / Rubert is about as good as URO.

Actually the last time I went was to one in Queensway and had Crispy duck. I've not found crispy duck like that here. I'll blame the cooks, you can blame the duck.

 

[alabbasi]

back on the subject of garage tools. Costco sells some really nice floor jacks. I have this alu steel hybrid jack at the house because it's easier to move around in tight spaces (2 cars, shelves, tools boxes etc) and also have the full steel Arcan 3 ton jack (red one) at the hobby shop. They're both great jacks for the money ($100).

https://www.costco.com/3-Ton-Profes...And-Steel-Service-Jack.product.100222458.html

 

[gerryvz]

I bet 98% of forum members have a Chinese-made SDS in their closet and are quite happy about it even though it's somebody else's IP

I’m sure many do, but it’s probably closer to 5-10% .... and I have not been among them for several years now. Mine is long gone.

 

[Jlaa]

back on the subject of garage tools. Costco sells some really nice floor jacks. I have this alu steel hybrid jack at the house because it's easier to move around in tight spaces (2 cars, shelves, tools boxes etc) and also have the full steel Arcan 3 ton jack (red one) at the hobby shop. They're both great jacks for the money.

https://www.costco.com/3-Ton-Profes...And-Steel-Service-Jack.product.100222458.html

I have this exact same jack!!! I like it a lot. My only criticism is that it still does not get low enough to lift my P-car while using JackPoint JackStand adapters and the rear jacking points. If only it went 1/2" lower....

 

[mikeym]

back on the subject of garage tools. Costco sells some really nice floor jacks. I have this alu steel hybrid jack at the house because it's easier to move around in tight spaces (2 cars, shelves, tools boxes etc) and also have the full steel Arcan 3 ton jack (red one) at the hobby shop. They're both great jacks for the money.

https://www.costco.com/3-Ton-Profes...And-Steel-Service-Jack.product.100222458.html

Bought one 3 years ago and been pretty happy with it. I noticed that some minor changes on the new ones and $20 increase in price.

Did anyone get this one for $1000:
https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5,000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html

 

[mikeym]

You might as well just say BMW is way better than Mercedes-Benz, and that the w124 is about on par with a 1976 Ford Pinto, I mean an Austin Princess.
Everything on Shaftesbury / Leicester / Charing Cross / Rubert is about as good as URO.

This is always the case. Visitors often like a place that locals (or sub-locals) trash. In my trip to London few weeks ago, I though the street food was the best thing. 7 pounds will get you enough food on Brick lane market...Here in Seattle area, $12-$15 is the going price of lunch at a food truck.

 

[alabbasi]

Did anyone get this one:
https://www.costco.com/QuickJack-5,000-LB-Capacity-Portable-Car-Lift.product.100460313.html

I think that if i was to spend $1000, I would buy a full on scissor lift if I was going to get something new. I bought a used challenger 12000lbs 4 post lift for about that and it can lift my Ford 1 ton super duty.
Of course this solution is not for everyone and won't work in a 2 car garage. A scissor lift should work fine.

 

[mikeym]

I think that if i was to spend $1000, I would by a full on scissor jack if I was going to get something new. I bought a used challenger 12000lbs 4 post lift for about that and it can lift my Ford 1 ton super duty.

Don't have much room in my semi-city two car low ceiling garage that also serves as laundry room.
Anyways, just ordered it and will see how it goes with E320 and Pig.

 

[BigWillieStyle]

I bet 98% of forum members have a Chinese-made SDS in their closet and are quite happy about it even though it's somebody else's IP

What's an SDS, and why's it in the closet?

Does the "D" stand for Data, Defense, or Dildo?

 

[ace10]

SK Tools is offering 30% off through Dec 17.

"HOLIDAYGEARS30"

It appears to apply to everything and is layered on top of any current markdowns.

 

[gsxr]

What's an SDS, and why's it in the closet?

Star Diagnostic System: https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651

 

[gsxr]

.... and I have not been among them for several years now. Mine [SDS] is long gone.

Uh, Gerry, what are you using now? A genuine SDS or a crystal ball?

Where did this go? https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651

 

[JC220]

Since my knock off Star died an early death and thanks to member E500star (Yuri)- I am now running a genuine / original C3 Mux

 

[gerryvz]

Uh, Gerry, what are you using now? A genuine SDS or a crystal ball?

Where did this go? https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2651

I sold it to a friend in Texas a while back (long before I left the state).

I’ve been using my Trisco PalmScan (for example to get the detailed codes for the NSS replacement).

Gen-u-whine HHT is in the works.

 

[BigWillieStyle]

Thanks gsxr!

This question or rfi is open to anyone, it pertains to electronics and diagnostic tooling.

First Part:

Hardware
1-SDS
2-Xentry

Software:
1-Carsoft - Bootable OS
2-DAS - Workstation Client OS / Terminal

Server:
1-Startek - Data Package

Is this correct/right?

Anyone have a list or link with info regarding Mercedes/Others OEMs default Diagnostic Hardware & Software affliations.

If you Google any of this stuff you get thousands of third-party (Licensed OR Unlicensed) trying to sell their OBD shit.






Sent from my MI MAX 2 using Tapatalk

 

[gsxr]

SDS refers to a hardware & software package. Xentry and DAS are the software components. There is no separate server required. Read the link above discussing the SDS Compact 3, this is what you'd use for all MB's through about 2009 USA model year. If you want full capability on Mercedes, SDS is your only option. Don't waste time investigating anything else.

Carsoft is an aftermarket hardware & software package, you DO NOT want this. It works with many different makes/models but has many limitations when it comes to Mercedes. The early/cheap versions don't work at all on older (pre-OBD-2) MB's.

 

[JC220]

Gen-u-whine HHT is in the works.

HHT? As in the old style handheld device which requires a cassette tape for each model? Or C4? I presume not the latter as a used genuine C4 mux is 2$$$ but good for you if so!

For me - an original C3 Mux is the way to go and works well on most all MB models

 

[gerryvz]

Nothing at all wrong with the HHT !!

The HHT (Hand-Held Tester) is the very best way to go for models with the 38-pin connectors. This would be models through around model year 1999/2000 (DITOG could say the exact model year, bit it could vary by a year or two depending on the chassis).

It is MUCH MUCH faster and more direct than the HHT emulation software found on the C3 and C4 SDS models, which has a lot of overhead. The C3/C4 SDS HHT emulation software is fully functional and identical to the HHT in terms of capabilities, but the bootup, setup and such is more tedious/cumbersome than just firing up the HHT, connecting it and making readings straightaway.

For older cars, such as the C126, the blink codes and their exceedingly limited data sufficient just using a home-made blink code reader.

Which reminds me, I never set up the HFMscan software (despite having the cables and such) for my G-wagen. I will prioritise that as a near-term project. Damn it.

The fact that used HHTs are $1,200 at a minimum tells you that they command a premium and are highly valued by mechanics and DIYers, alike.

The last time I visited DITOG's shop in Boise, this past August, I wanted to "nick" his real-deal HHT....would have if I'd have been able to slip it under my shirt or into my sock.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[LWB250]

For those on a budget, don’t dismiss the SnapOn MGT2500, which can be found on eBay for relatively little $$. I have a bootleg SDS that works great, but when I’m looking at a car out in the field for purchase, for example, dragging all of the hardware required and getting power for the SDS can be a PITA.

GSXR turned me on to the SnapOn device, which while it doesn’t provide the same depth of coverage SDS does, goes a long way in hitting the high points and is self powered and extremely portable. Engine systems are covered in detail, and it also does the 722.6 transmission parameters, which are really important in judging the condition of a transmission. It doesn’t do a lot of the interior and climate control stuff.

Nearly everything you’ll see on eBay will have the personality keys, cables and software modules for domestic cars. I bought a complete setup for $175, bought a Mercedes cable, software module and personality keys for another maybe $150, and sold off all of the domestic cables and software modules for over $300, so I figure I got mine for close to free.

I love mine and use it far more than my SDS because it’s so convenient.

P.S. - Gerry, I’m a second generation A-E wearer. I was lucky enough to live in Port Washington for 8 years, so the Shoe Bank and Tent Sale were regular hangouts. I think I’ve got about 10 pairs these days...

Dan

 

[JC220]

Nothing at all wrong with the HHT !!

The HHT (Hand-Held Tester) is the very best way to go for models with the 38-pin connectors. This would be models through around model year 1999/2000 (DITOG could say the exact model year, bit it could vary by a year or two depending on the chassis).

It is MUCH MUCH faster and more direct than the HHT emulation software found on the C3 and C4 SDS models, which has a lot of overhead. The C3/C4 SDS HHT emulation software is fully functional and identical to the HHT in terms of capabilities, but the bootup, setup and such is more tedious/cumbersome than just firing up the HHT, connecting it and making readings straightaway.

For older cars, such as the C126, the blink codes and their exceedingly limited data sufficient just using a home-made blink code reader.

Which reminds me, I never set up the HFMscan software (despite having the cables and such) for my G-wagen. I will prioritise that as a near-term project. Damn it.

The fact that used HHTs are $1,200 at a minimum tells you that they command a premium and are highly valued by mechanics and DIYers, alike.

The last time I visited DITOG's shop in Boise, this past August, I wanted to "nick" his real-deal HHT....would have if I'd have been able to slip it under my shirt or into my sock.

Cheers,
Gerry

I think the main drawback of HHT is that you must have a cartridge for car each model so it will work – is that correct? With such a system locating a full set of cartridges could be difficult now. If the HHT device comes with a w124 cartridge for example well be prepared to only diagnose w124's. That is my understanding anyway - correct me if I'm wrong. I did look into it getting one some months back but went away from the idea when I thought more about it and also discussed it with Yuri who has intimate knowledge of all of these units.


In any case for my varied MB fleet Genuine C3 is the best way to go so I can read newer models on Xentry along with any older DAS model. It’s not particularly time consuming to use either in my experience - with a decent solid state drive it boots up and is ready in no time at all. Having ready & full access to WIS and EPC on the same system whilst diagnosing a vehicle is most beneficial for me.


My HFM software days are over. I cannot understand why it won’t connect to pretty much all cars now except my 3.6 converted 124. Not going to worry about it and will just keep using C3 setup instead moving forwards. It could be a cable issue with the HFM maybe but for the time I’ve wasted already trying to revive it - it’s not worth the hassle for me personally just now unfortunately. Maybe I will re-visit next year and see what's up MikeK was always more than helpful

 

[alabbasi]

I have an AST Retriever which is similar to the Trisco that Gerry uses. I prefer it to the SDS which is my last go to device (AST first then Autel DS708 second). The SDS is too rough around the edges and requires a crash cart to use it.

The AST is really handy as it's compact and can get into every system that I've tried to access using the 38 pin connector. It's only shortcoming so far is for clearing the transmission codes on a 722.6. I was able to read transmission codes on my 98 SL500 and identify that I needed a new conductor plate, but was not able to perform a full reset.

It did turn off the light but the transmission was still in limp home mode until I put the Autel on it which successfully cleared the code.

There was an AST retriever for sale in the Dallas CL a couple of weeks ago for $200. It would have been a heck of a deal.

For those on a budget, don’t dismiss the SnapOn MGT2500

This is a Snapon MGT2500 user