HOW-TO: Complete W124 Sunroof Refurbishment

[JC220]

Preamble-

Sunroof repair is something many people avoid (myself included until recently) because of fears of complexity and not having the ‘know how’ to tackle it in the first instance. The FSM does contain some PDF’s on the subject but IMO the instructions are not very clear or easy to follow.
As many of our cars are 25+ years old this task is very much overdue and I’m betting 99% of w124’s out there have never had the sunroof properly overhauled like this. Lubrication will be discussed in full – but this DIY will show that lack of lubrication is not the only issue these sunroofs suffer from.

The moving parts can and do (nearly always) fall off inside the mechanism which also jam it up and prevent smooth operation. Applying the specially formulated lubricant- Gleitpaste externally will not help matters much at all as the only proper way to lubricate these roofs is to remove both ‘lift arms’ from inside the mechanism.

The purpose of this DIY is to show clear, pictorial step by instructions on how to completely dismantle, lubricate and service your W124 Sunroof fully and properly. This DIY is applicable to all W124 Saloon models (Not just the E500E) and also C124 Coupe models. I have already done this before on my 1992 500E – this time I am carrying out the refurbishment on my 1994 320CE.

This is not a difficult task and should not be feared. Refurbish, use and enjoy your Sunroof with confidence that you can repair it in your own garage!


Prerequisites before your begin this DIY-

For the purpose of this DIY your sunroof should be somewhat functional. If the Sunroof does not function at all when pressing the switch then you will need to do some basic troubleshooting first including checking the Fuse in the main Fuse Box and that the motor has power. The motor is located in the trunk near the power antenna – the trunk trim liners will need removed to access it.

If the motor can be heard moving when operating the switch but the sunroof does not move – it could be damaged plastic gears in the motor itself or a broken cable / component inside the sunroof.

In the instance of a dead / silent motor you might try using the white plastic nut on the motor itself as a manual override for moving the sunroof. This is a basic first test let you know if the Sunroof will move and the problem lies within the motor or associated circuitry. I have taken spare lift arms from parts cars by using just this white plastic nut and it works just fine – although much slower!

If the motor does work and movement can be heard inside the roof – but the lid stays closed then there are much bigger problems. At the time of writing the only way to repair this is to pull the whole headlining and sunroof cassette complete. I will be repairing such a case on another w124 of mine in a couple months so the additional steps will be detailed in this DIY in due course.



As with all my DIY’S I try to make the instructions clear and to the point. This DIY will be posted in several Parts as I carry out the refurbishment on my CE over the coming week. All aspects will be covered in a stage by stage basis as the DIY continuous with top tips to improve the Sunroof and it’s reliability for many years to come.


These sections will be posted as;

Part 1- Disassembly of the sunroof and removal of both lift arms
Part 2- Removal, cleaning, lubrication and re-fitting the Sunroof Cable
Part 3- Cleaning,Inspection of lift arms and ordering replacement parts
Part 4- Refurbishing the lift arms- assembly tips and lubrication
Part 5- Re-assembly and final adjustments for smooth operation

 

[JC220]

Part 1- Disassembly of the sunroof and removal of both lift arms

Let’s get started!

1: First lay a soft blanket on the rear half of the Roof so you can set the parts back as you remove them. This serves 2x purposes. The parts are fragile and it’s best to not mix them up so it’s easy to place them back as you go to keep everything organised and out of harms way.

2: Next is removal of the fabric trim panel. Begin by rolling the Sunroof 75% back. There are 4x plastic clips to un-pop first. Take a large flat blade screwdriver, insert along side the clip and twist to pop. Repeat on all remaining 3x clips – (refer to the 2nd picture with all 4x clip locations circled Red for clarity)




3: Now roll sunroof lid fully back. Pull the fabric trim panel downwards and forward to clear the clips. Then frontwards and up through the Sunroof opening.




4: Remove the 4x screws each side holding the top stainless trim plates. Note the machined screw at the front. Remove both trims and set aside (For the 2x sides).




5: Get inside the car and roll the Sunroof lid fully forward again. Carefully mark the exact location of the brackets and fixing bolts before undoing anything. I use a sharpie and a scribe to mark them. Only the 2x 8mm bolts circled Red need undone both sides – a ratchet spanner is ideal for undoing these. (Do not remove or loosen any other fixings!!)




6: Now you can carefully extract the Sunroof Lid from above and set aside.




7: Next remove the gutter / drip rail. There is a keyway that needs aligned to undo the front clip – refer to picture below. (The Lift arm needs raised to align the slot) Then withdraw and set aside.




8: Back inside the car now start by undoing the 2x 8mm bolts that secure the Cable to the Transport Bridge. Then mark the 3x bolts either side and remove them also. (Note- W124 and C124 models use the exact same Lift Arms - only the bolting locations here change - this is C124 version pictured) Remove Transport bridge and set aside.





9: To facilitate removal of the main parts – the Lift Arms (My name for them!), first a plastic strip needs removed. The Lift arms can be slid forward or backwards to access the 3x screws as pictured and circled below. Then you need to use a screwdriver to un-pop the metal arm as pictured. This metal arm is part of the anti-down draught flap.

ADMIN EDIT: The plastic guides on each side can ONLY be removed on the coupé. These can not be removed on sedans/wagons, without breaking the plastic guide. Also, there are no screws retaining the plastic pieces on the sedan/wagon. It may be possible to remove them if the entire sunroof frame is removed from the sedan/wagon, but they do not have to come out to allow the lift arms to be extracted. Normally there is no need to remove these, except on the coupé, as described in FSM job 77-170, see note on step #5.​

10: Then twist the plastic trim through 90 degrees and remove these strips both sides-

ADMIN EDIT: The See note above - do not try to remove these plastic guides on a sedan (saloon) or wagon (estate/T-model).​

11: Next the Lift arms can be carefully removed from the Sunroof opening-




All parts are now extracted for this stage. You are now around 20 minutes into the job – these are all of the parts set out on the blanket.





Some notes here specific to this car – there were corroded parts which were loose and sitting in the mechanism.



I am replacing the whole lid in this instance with a good used C124 one I have in the correct colour and the whole car is being re-sprayed anyway.



And, as I see time & time again there are pads totally missing from the lift arms.



This is a rare opportunity to have a look into your Roof cavity and check for corrosion – this one is good.



I will address this issue later in the DIY and what you can do to prevent this happening again. Sorry about the quality of the pictures, I am working at night and I did my best to light up the work areas for you to see!


Parts 2 & 3 to be posted tomorrow so stay tuned!

 

[nocfn]

Looking forward to parts 2/3! Excellent work...

 

[darek_u]

Another great write-up coming! Subscribed.

 

[JC220]

Guys- thankyou for the feedback I'm glad you like the DIY!

Part 2- Removal, cleaning, lubrication and re-fitting the Sunroof Cable



This part is a simple task – you need your Gleitpaste for this stage. This is a special Mercedes lubricant designed especially for the Sunroof. Available from your dealer the part number is A0019894651 There is no alternative! This product is also discussed in more detail here


This is the cable position / reference point after the sunroof was taken out-





1: With the ignition on, press the Sunroof switch to the up position. This will push the cable out of the motor in a few seconds – take hold of the cable and manually withdraw it completely out through the sunroof opening




Notice the dirty, semi dry – old grease on the cable itself




2: Clean the cable with brake cleaner aerosol to remove the old grease from all the little notches – and the smooth coating.


3: Place the cable back over the car using a rag to protect the paint from the metal end bracket which will rest on the hood. Using a brush – apply a light, even coating of Gleitpaste to all areas of the cable gradually as you insert / push it back into the guide tube. There will be a point where the cable will stop as it hits the motor gear back in the trunk. Make sure the bracket is kept in flat alignment!




4: Now keep a hand on the cable end with even, inwards pressure applied. Reach inside the car with your other hand and press the Sunroof switch backwards (Ignition still on). The motor will ‘grab’ the cable and pull it back in. Make sure and stop the switch about where the cable was before on it’s bracket.




That’s Part 2 complete. You are now roughly 40 minutes total into this DIY.


A note on the Sunroof Cable – refer to the picture below for cable types. (Picture courtesy of W124 Performance)



You will see there is an early ‘candy cane’ cable and a later smooth cable (like the one in my CE). If you had the early type cable it should be replaced with the newer smooth cable.

It is a very good idea to carry out this DIY on a junkyard car first. This will give you some practice but you can also take your own spare pair of lift arms and updated cable from a donor. I find that local Junkyards never take the Sunroof’s apart (They likely don’t know how to!) so I get the spare lift arms and cables basically free. Also the lift arms are very expensive from MB so it’s a good idea to have at least one good spare pair on the shelf for the future.

Part 3 coming later today

 

[Eno]

Great work, congrats, I will do the same in one of mine ‘92 500E’s in the future before painting it.
I have also purchased some small parts for the roof.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[nocfn]

Part two is spot on, good work. For those of you who have the 126 chassis, there is virtually no difference in the sunroof other than part numbers and dimensions. As for the cable, the solid cased cable or new style is preferred and the cost is around $88 usd. On the 126, the white nylon you see in the above pictured is actually spiral wrapped. When the grease dries out due to neglect, the nylon becomes out of shape and contributes to jams as it enters and exits the guide tube. So if you are doing any type of MX on your roof, you see how simple it is to change only the cable. (Thanks JC220 for letting me chime in on this)

 

[JC220]

Part 3- Cleaning, Inspection of lift arms and ordering replacement parts

This section of the DIY concentrates on the main components of the w124 Sunroof. The Lift Arms as I call them. First, some background information on the Lift Arms.

These are the same Part numbers for Saloon and Coupe models- only the bolting location differs on installation.

Left Part Number: 124-782-05-12
Right Part Number: 124-782-06-12

(Note that new Genuine Mercedes Lift arms will come complete with all felt pads pre-installed)


I have noticed a difference in production years of these arms – even though the Part Number did not change. A pair of good used 1992 arms have a small plastic ‘bearing’ or bushing which free-wheels as it moves through the side plastic rails. Pictured below-



The later 1994 arms from my CE did not have this bearing – it appears to have been excluded from later production arms.



I do prefer the early version with the bushing. And since my original 1994 lift arms also had a little corrosion I have decided to swap in the matching pair of 1992 arms.



Note that if you are to change the arms (Either new or used) you must carefully mark the bolt locations on the side brackets before transferring them over. If the brackets are not bolted on at the exactly the same position you will need to use the factory Webasto tools in order to re-align / set the Sunroof lid position in your car.



Picture courtesy of W124 Performance


So for this Part of the DIY: (Standard service with the original lift arms)

1: Remove the old Felt pads from the lift arms and bin




2: Give the arms a good cleaning with hot soapy water. I also use some TFR detergent sprayed on first to help remove any old grease. Carefully articulate the arms and use brushes to get into all the nooks and crannies. Rinse off with clean water and allow to dry.




3: Carefully inspect both arms for any signs of cracking, corrosion or damage. If there is any damage the arm(s) must be replaced.



Note- do not be tempted by cheap new fleabay sunroof arms. They will be poor fitting and not last very long. Plus the felt pads on them are rubber – not felt so they are not OE standard parts.

4: Use a vacuum and a clean rag to clean the Sunroof opening on the car. There will be debris in here and usually some of the old felt pads!



Finally for ordering the parts please refer to the picture below – courtesy of W124 Performance. All part numbers and quantities are detailed thereon.



These little felt pads are very expensive from Mercedes – currently around £126 in the UK just for the pads.

Part 4 will resume next weekend when I have received the new parts from Germany.

 

[darek_u]

I had quick look at prices and these little buggers are indeed expensive! Is any replacement available? Is it just black felt or there is something special about these pads? I can see that the last part from the picture (p/n 126....) is somewhat different than just flat pad.

 

[JC220]

I had quick look at prices and these little buggers are indeed expensive! Is any replacement available? Is it just black felt or there is something special about these pads? I can see that the last part from the picture (p/n 126....) is somewhat different than just flat pad.

They are made of rubber with a very thin bonded layer of a fleece like material. The original items will be quite worn by now depending on the amount of use the sunroof gets. There are 2x items that don’t usually require replacement however-

124-782-02-30 usually are still in re-useable condition and don’t see much wear at all

140-782-01-38 do not wear at all. These are simply stop ends to create a buffer when the sunroof is fully opened. They will not need replaced unless found to be missing from the arms (I’ve seen a couple cars with one missing)

Unfortunately the other felt pads are required at a minimum when you are in that far and the genuine parts are the only ones to use. But it is depressing how expensive they are! The Gleitpaste is also expensive - around £68 a can but there is no alternative and one can will last a DIY-er virtually forever. The parts in the picture below are what I used for my 500E. You need a good quality super glue, Light Oil and the felt pads as described above.

 

[darek_u]

Thank you very much for the detailed answer. Parts added to the shopping list. The magic Gleitpaste - well, I think I'll use other PFPE based fluorinated lubricant, like DuPont Krytox or Finish Line Extreme Fluoro. I know I can be banned for this statement...

 

[JC220]

The new sunroof pads still haven’t arrived from Mercedes. They will be here in a few days and I complete this DIY

 

[JC220]

Part 4- Refurbishing the lift arms- assembly tips and lubrication
I have now received the new pads – this is what you get for £126



This section is fairly straight forward but quite important too! First lets discuss the lubricants required-

Gleitpaste is specifically formulated by Mercedes for the Sunroof as we know. More specifically it is formulated to be applied to the Felt Pads and allow them to slide freely along the stainless trims / plastic within the mechanism. Gleitpaste will do nothing for inside the metal pins and articulating parts of the lift arms so therefore we need an additional lubricant-

Light Oil- I use a high quality light synthetic oil designed for cycle chains. It is water resistant and non sling so it will get / stay inside all of the pins and plastic bushings of the lift arms. There is a big improvement in the lift arms when oiling them (In terms of smoothness and ease of movement) so you will see it is very important to not skip this step. DO NOT use something like WD40 here as it will evaporate within a few weeks.


This section is in 3 stages-

1: Is to install the new felt pads. This is self explanatory – Superglue helps to ensure these will not fall off easily again within the sunroof.



The longer Felt Pads will first need trimmed down to size – for some reason they are bigger than the slot and will not fit out of the packet.



In particular these pieces MUST be glued into place as they will fall off almost instantly! (Indeed I’ve never removed lift arms with these still in place – very common to go AWOL)



Don’t forget to put the end stop pieces back on – no glue needed for them they are quite secure.




2: Now use the oil and start by locating each of the plastic wheels / bushings. Apply a small amount of Oil and work oil into the bushings by turning them with your fingers until they free up and spin nicely again. There are 4x bushings on the inside of the arm circled red in this picture- (+ the external single one at the front edge)



Apply to each end of all metal pins / joints and move to work the oil in. Finally apply light amounts of oil on the contact faces of the metal moving parts and the slider slot on the side.



Wipe off excess oil.


3: Final stage now is to apply a coat of the Gleitpaste evenly by brush (Acid brushes work best) to all new felt pads.




The lift arms are now refurbished and ready to go back into the car The final part of this DIY to follow this Saturday. (Other adjustments / topics and how to repair a stuck closed sunroof will follow thereafter in due course)

 

[EUROAMG]

Awesome how to thread. Just did the sunroof on the w124 looking forward to the next part..

 

[JC220]

Awesome how to thread. Just did the sunroof on the w124 looking forward to the next part..

Thankyou for the feedback - I’m glad you found the How-To useful. The next part will be posted tomorrow

 

[JC220]

Part 5- Re-assembly and final adjustments for smooth operation

This is the final section of the DIY which details re-assembling the sunroof and making some adjustments as you go to ensure the lid position is correct when closed and for smooth operation.

The adjustment stages are not 100% required but they are recommended when doing a full rebuild like this. To carry out adjustment you will need some vernier callipers (For centering the panel) and for setting the rear lid height adjustment a pair of regular 6mm drill bits are acceptable. If you have replaced the lift arms, sunroof lid or did not make complete markings of the bolts as you went then additional tools will be needed from Mercedes; (Courtesy of w124 performance)



I could simply say – “assembly is the reverse of removal”- which for the most part is true. However in the following steps I will detail the ‘full’ re-assembly and adjustment steps I would recommend-

1: Lubricate the section of rail pictured below of both sides with a light coating of Gleitpaste. Set the lift arms back in and slide them backwards out of the way



2: Lubricate the channel in the side trims as pictured and re-install.



Make sure the lift arm is correctly seated into the side channels-



3: Re-install the transport bridge and tighten the bolts back to the original markings made before removal



4: Re-install the gutter and don’t forget the little fibre washers first. Apply light oil to these connections



5: Now install the 4x remaining new felt pads onto the sunroof lid. I find it easier to Gleitpaste the back side first of each new felt pad then fit on and Gleitpaste the remaining sides.



6: Fit the MB tools both sides as pictured. (The tools are handed and marked L /R)



7: Set the Sunroof Lid back into place

8: Now to check / adjust the side to side placement of the lid in the opening. Loosen the front most 4x 8mm bolts as pictured (2x per side) Use the callipers to check both gaps and adjust as required before re-tightening the bolts again.



9: Re-fit the top sunroof lid nuts back on to the original markings made on disassembly.



10: Check the rear lid height. Mine was low both sides. Slacken the bolts pictured and lift the lid up to the correct height before re-tightening. This can take several attempts to get just right. Do this on both sides obviously. Then once set- remove the red tools both sides.



11: Now it’s time to fine adjust the sunroof lid front height in the opening. (This must be done now prior to the Stainless trims going back on) One screw as pictured both sides adjusts the front height. Again mine was low here too prior to adjustment.

(Note- I forgot this pic and took it after the trims were installed - it should not be adjusted with the trim plates on!)

12: Slide the lid back to open. Apply a light coating of Gleitpaste to the underside of the top stainless trim as pictured and re-fit the stainless trims both sides.



13: Now lubricate and adjust the front anti draught flap. Lightly oil all of the hinge parts and the top of the trim here-



Then there are 2x adjustment screws. This one adjusts the ‘stand up’ height with the roof open-



And these small screws adjust the flap in the lowered position as the roof is closing the last few inches. I find these always need tweaking to stop the flap rubbing on the lid as it closes.



13: Roll the lid fully closed and make sure both plastic brackets are positioned as shown below-



14: Re-install the fabric liner by inserting from outside. Set it in first – then check inside that the channel lines up before pushing it back in.



Roll the lid forward again about 3 – 4 inches and re-pop on the 4x plastic clips. Check that the fabric liner is correctly attached by using the ‘tilt up’ function of the sunroof. It may take several attempts to get both sides to ‘catch’ on the fabric liner brackets correctly. (It took me 4x goes on this one!)


And that is it! One re-assembled sunroof – and you CAN do it at home. It’s a half day’s tinkering for a DIY’er and highly recommended to do it sooner than later before the sunroof might stop working / jamb given that 99% of w124’s will have never had the felt pads replaced or the sunroof overhauled like this. If your sunroof is making any kind of scraping / groaning noises STOP using it until overhauled.

If it breaks a lift arm and won’t open it’s a whole lot of trouble – I will detail that kind of repair in a couple months.

 

[JC220]

Here is a brief video showing this sunroof working after refurbiushment:

Now – I’m off for a

 

[doolar]

Nice work, and thank you for making the how-to.

Enjoy some well earned libations!

 

[JC220]

Nice work, and thank you for making the how-to.

Enjoy some well earned libations!

No problem Thomas & thanks!

If anyone tackles this DIY please do post here

 

[JC220]

Have any members tackled this DIY yet?

I have some more sunroof tinkering planned shortly. This time replacing the lid seal in the CE to allow me to repair a spot of rust right at the edge of the roof sheetmetal. On checking with a spare 124 roof I have its possibe to pull the seal out from above - at least that’s my plan I’ll see how it goes

 

[nocfn]

I have done this all on a c126, and most of it on the w124.

Old seals come out pretty easy using some plastic trim tools. Getting the new one in is challenging due to the newness of the rubber.

 

[sheward]

Looking for some help removing the draftflap at the front of the sunroof opening to aid in cleaning and sunroof seal removal and eventual replacement after paint. Everything else is out. Anyone?


edit: Got it. It pryes out of two clips either end and one in the middle. The flap assembly pryes rearward out of the first clip at the end then upward from the next clip 60mm inward (towards the center and not visible). Center pryes rearward.

drew

 

[JC220]

Looking for some help removing the draftflap at the front of the sunroof opening to aid in cleaning and sunroof seal removal and eventual replacement after paint. Everything else is out. Anyone?


edit: Got it. It simply pryes out of a clip on either end. Use a flat blade screw driver being careful of the plastic receiver "clips" mentioned.

drew

Drew – I have taken some pictures for you of the centre flap fixing. (This is a spare sunroof cassette)



There is also a connection in the centre. Seen in the first 2x pictures. It will be difficult to pry this clip outwards with the sunroof cassette mounted in the car. I would suggest going very gentle with it to avoid breaking anything and see if you can get the centre clip undone...... I have not needed to remove that flap before.

 

[sheward]

Thank You. Your thread saved me hours of scratching my head and likely breaking something.

drew

 

[AJB]

Thank you for the fantastic information and images provided extremely helpful and made very easy to follow and repair my sunroof back to good as new.

 

[JC220]

Thank you for the fantastic information and images provided extremely helpful and made very easy to follow and repair my sunroof back to good as new.

Thanks for the feedback! Glad the DIY helped

 

[davidhaigh1]

This Tutorial belongs in the Gold Star category of articles in this forum. Great photos. Very clearly spelled out. Well done for spending the time so that others can save time.

 

[JC220]

This Tutorial belongs in the Gold Star category of articles in this forum. Great photos. Very clearly spelled out. Well done for spending the time so that others can save time.

Thankyou for the feedback and I'm glad the DIY is proving useful!

I do also now have a donor w124 which I intend to swap the whole sunroof assembly / cassette from to go into my 300E-24 (Due to catastrophic lift arm failure in the 300E-24) I'll post further details on that in due course

 

[garrison]

WOW!! Thank you ... we have 2 124 cars ... both need headliner refurb & a good time to pull maintenance on the sun roof ... terrific photos & write up ...

 

[JC220]

I have 2x w124 parts cars currently and I have been exploring methods of sunroof lid removal if it's inop without requiring fullheadliner and cassette removal.

I have it pretty well dialed in now so next up is my 300E-24 repair I'll post pics and steps of sunroof lid extraction from above without damaging anything

 

[Ertech]

Thanks for the great post
having a little problem I can’t feed the cable back
i push it untill it stops , activate the motor , I hear it but it does not catch
thanks
ERICK

 

[JC220]

Thanks for the great post
having a little problem I can’t feed the cable back
i push it untill it stops , activate the motor , I hear it but it does not catch
thanks
ERICK

No problem!

For the cable do make sure you have it inserted all the way to the motor by wiggling back and forth some at the point it has stopped.

In addition to that try keeping inward pressure on the cable and have an assistant press the button for you - this should make the motor take up the cable if it is inserted far enough.

Worst case scenario you might have to take the motor off in the trunk- but do check out the above suggestions first

 

[sheward]

I experienced this problem and found a slight gouge or defect in the end of the plastic sheathing covering the cable which prevented the cable from going all the way back to the motor easily. I removed about an inch of the sheathing and this did allow the cable to engage however there is now a slight catch in the smoothness of the operation. I have since purchased a new cable to replace the old one. Check your cable very closely for any defects.

Drew

 

[nocfn]

The replacement cables are encased in a sheath whereas some of the earlier models may have a factory style that is wrapped in a sheath like a candy cane. The heat and time cause the material to become slightly mis-shaped and catch either on the slider guide tube or the rear window guide tube. For less then 100, a new style cable is a good move.

 

[sheward]

Agree. part no. 124 780 13 89 $87.40 from the Classic Center

drew

 

[JC220]

Good points on the cable types guys a photo of both types is in post number 5 of this thread.

It's a great idea to nab spare late type cables at the parts yards since you can usually get them for next to nothing!

 

[Ertech]

Got A new cable and still can’t feed it past the C pillar , ????
Thanks

 

[nocfn]

Are you letting the motor feed it in?

 

[Ertech]

It does not get to the motor it gets stuck after the 2nd turn
1st turn from middle of roof to left
2nd it blocks turning befor it goes down the c pillar
.

 

[nocfn]

Are you certain that the motor was completely closed before you began to let it feed in? Meaning that you press the close switch until you see the catch. Its been a while but the unit draws your cable but it gets stopped at the second turn?

 

[Ertech]

I played so much with the switch not sure if closed position.
What prosedure do I now follow ?
Thanks

 

[nocfn]

Not sure of procedure, but press the switch as if the roof was closing. Then try again. What was the reason for the change anyway, was it a jam?

 

[Ertech]

No I followed this post for a slow roof when cold and was redoing the headliner , I damaged the orignal cable trying to re insert in . So I purchased a new one.

 

[nocfn]

Oiy, did you bend the tube where it bolts to the sunroof capsule removing the headliner? Sorry I dont know unless something broke and is jammed up In the bend.

 

[Ertech]

Finally got the cable in I used a drill at very low speed to push and rotate at the same time it went right in
How do I remove this butterfly piece I already removed the pin not sure if that was necessary thanks guys

 

[nocfn]

fantastic! That butterfly bolts to the transom and that's what pushes/pulls the sliding stuff.

 

[IslandMon]

Ordered all of the pads and alignment tools to get this maintenance done as part of my headliner replacement. MB of Naperville informed me today that the 2 tools (124589182100, 124589172100) and larger felt pads (1247820030) are NLA.

Anyone that has done this, what has the condition of the used large felt pads been upon removal? Should I scour the web for NOS parts, or just apply gleitpaste to the old ones?

 

[TerryA]

JC220 should have all of your answers.

 

[gerryvz]

You may be able to use a 126 or a 140 pad as a substitution.

 

[gerryvz]

Ordered all of the pads and alignment tools to get this maintenance done as part of my headliner replacement. MB of Naperville informed me today that the 2 tools (124589182100, 124589172100) and larger felt pads (1247820030) are NLA.

Anyone that has done this, what has the condition of the used large felt pads been upon removal? Should I scour the web for NOS parts, or just apply gleitpaste to the old ones?

I have checked several sources, including the MB Classic Parts site.

They are showing that all four of the sliding felt parts ARE available

124 782 00 30
124 782 01 30
124 782 02 30
126 782 01 30

The 140 782 01 38 slider part is NOT available.

Try another online dealership.

I will have put an inquiry today into MB Annapolis for all of these part numbers and availability.