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Thank you for your kind words Arnt.I'm sorry for the loss of your father, but many thanks for giving us the nice story about the car. I hope you get it sorted without too much hassle. And it's nice to see you back here on the forum again!
I'm happy to be back here too, been reading a lot of threads to catch up.
Had a fuel smell from the boot, I at first thought it was the fuel cans my dad stored there with fuel in them, but the smell didn't go away. So I had a look at the tank level sender unit and here is the culprit:
Removed the sender and cleaned it, it wasn't bad at all, but when its off it's a five minute job. A lot of crud on the nut:
Cleaned it and replaced one of the o-rings, I didn't have the large one at hand:
Assembled and back in the car:
I'll monitor this over a few weeks. But the smell disappeared after an hour or so.
Removed the sender and cleaned it, it wasn't bad at all, but when its off it's a five minute job. A lot of crud on the nut:
Cleaned it and replaced one of the o-rings, I didn't have the large one at hand:
Assembled and back in the car:
I'll monitor this over a few weeks. But the smell disappeared after an hour or so.
Omg there were a lot of old phone and antenna installations in the car, alongside several sound "installations" obviously done by a person who just should have let someone else do it. I've extracted one Nokia phone module, one antenna box for a multiway antenna, meters of Rockford Fosgate boom box cables, pieces of wiring just cut and tucked away.
My dad never cared and just wanted me to leave it until it was in the way, he asked me to remove the aftermarket alarm some years back, and that was a horrible installation too.
I'll either install a Special radio, or my Audio 30 APS that I never sold and have NIB to use. I'm leaning towards the APS even though it's not period correct. But it's just a better sounding unit with CD too. And I can get a Bluetooth module for either of them.
I've also most likely confirmed that it is the AC compressor bearing that's causing the noise. Starting the engine without the belt was telling that it absolutely was an auxilliary, and the bearing in the compressor spins very fast and sounds completely dry. All other rollers etc seem fine. I know I have both spare compressors and bearings, and the AC is cold and working fine, so maybe I'll just replace the bearing.
The ASR delete seems to be a good one with three relays nicely placed etc. I'll get a hold of a ASR off button and place where the fader wheel is, cause that's not in use and I won't reconnect it either.
I think it's H&R springs on the car - they're red right @gsxr ? Maybe I have original springs in my parts bin, I'll have to check. Both rear struts, spheres and front shocks are replaced about 10000 kilometers ago, so they're in great shape. If I don't have springs, I'll buy new ones, the car is way too low for my taste.
Finally I documented all the cosmetic damages I could find, there are some corrosion, bent plastic, bad repairs. Sagging rear bumper, a scrape and dent on the right rear fender flare and bumper etc etc.
My dad never cared and just wanted me to leave it until it was in the way, he asked me to remove the aftermarket alarm some years back, and that was a horrible installation too.
I'll either install a Special radio, or my Audio 30 APS that I never sold and have NIB to use. I'm leaning towards the APS even though it's not period correct. But it's just a better sounding unit with CD too. And I can get a Bluetooth module for either of them.
I've also most likely confirmed that it is the AC compressor bearing that's causing the noise. Starting the engine without the belt was telling that it absolutely was an auxilliary, and the bearing in the compressor spins very fast and sounds completely dry. All other rollers etc seem fine. I know I have both spare compressors and bearings, and the AC is cold and working fine, so maybe I'll just replace the bearing.
The ASR delete seems to be a good one with three relays nicely placed etc. I'll get a hold of a ASR off button and place where the fader wheel is, cause that's not in use and I won't reconnect it either.
I think it's H&R springs on the car - they're red right @gsxr ? Maybe I have original springs in my parts bin, I'll have to check. Both rear struts, spheres and front shocks are replaced about 10000 kilometers ago, so they're in great shape. If I don't have springs, I'll buy new ones, the car is way too low for my taste.
Finally I documented all the cosmetic damages I could find, there are some corrosion, bent plastic, bad repairs. Sagging rear bumper, a scrape and dent on the right rear fender flare and bumper etc etc.
@doolar, check if the 036 springs are still available. I think they might have gone NLA. PM me, as I've seen some for sale recently in Germany (no affiliation).
Nope, H&R typically have dark charcoal gray paint. Not sure what brand are typically painted red. See if you can find any part numbers marked on them.
Definitely call a dealer and inquire about availability of stock springs. I've seen mixed information about these going NLA. I believe the rear Limited-specific springs are NLA but there might still be some stock springs available...?
MBCC says yes, maybe, and RevParts sites do not yet show Discontinued. So there is hope!
Front:
Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.
Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).
partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com
Rear:
Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.
Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).
partssearch.mercedes-benz-classic.com
Thank you, PM coming your way!
Nope, H&R typically have dark charcoal gray paint. Not sure what brand are typically painted red. See if you can find any part numbers marked on them.
Definitely call a dealer and inquire about availability of stock springs. I've seen mixed information about these going NLA. I believe the rear Limited-specific springs are NLA but there might still be some stock springs available...?
MBCC says yes, maybe, and RevParts sites do not yet show Discontinued. So there is hope!
Front:
Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.
Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).
Rear:
Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search.
Browse through the Mercedes-Benz Classic Parts Search to see the availability of parts, promotional and newly manufactured parts and order them online (only in Germany).
Ah yes something rings right with Eibach, I think the PO told us that when we bought the car. It's 16 years ago now so things are forgotten...
I'll rummage through all of my stuff, and my fathers too. I would not be surprised to find OE springs for the car among his stuff. I already found tons of MB things that I didn't know he accumulated.
I think the car is silly low, the spare compartment have several dings in it.
First things first though - I need to fix the AC compressor. I hope that I can replace the bearing with the compressor in situ, but I'm not sure it's possible really. If not I'll just replace the compressor, it's just a pity to break a working system.
Alter that I need to find out why the gearbox is lazy on the upshifts and sort it out.
Documenting some of the exterior defects:
Corrosion on roof above windshield
Melt damage of rear bumper due to too short exhaust, unfortunately I never got to fix this for my dad, and he was not convinced until the bumper failed. Also scratches on the bumper
Corrosion close to rear left corner
Minor scratches
Way to big gap
Warped front upper bumper, it's been like this since we bought it and it's only visible when the hood is up, so I'll leave it
Warped chrome piece after theft attempt
Right fender and rear wing damage
Corrosion on roof above windshield
Melt damage of rear bumper due to too short exhaust, unfortunately I never got to fix this for my dad, and he was not convinced until the bumper failed. Also scratches on the bumper
Corrosion close to rear left corner
Minor scratches
Way to big gap
Warped front upper bumper, it's been like this since we bought it and it's only visible when the hood is up, so I'll leave it
Warped chrome piece after theft attempt
Right fender and rear wing damage
Thank you, yea I’ll have a closer look at the damage, I’m considering repairing it. I will not turn this car into a concourse example, but keep it mechanically in top condition and worry less about the exterior. The car are partially repainted etc so it’s a patchwork paint wise.
But I said the same about my E420 and that didn’t go well
Removed the AC compressor clutch and pulley to extract the bearing, and yea it was shot, sounds like a bag of marbles when I spin it. I did not have this bearing in stock, so I've ordered one and it will be with me next week.
Trunk lining and carpet is out for washing and cleaning along the front floor mats - the bottom ones. I'll have before and afters.... after.
Status now waiting for the bearing.
The Audio 30 APS is in, only connected to front and rear speakers, they are replaced with Clarion speakers by the PO. It's fully serviceable for now.
I kept the Glock box from my E420, so it is installed, predrilled holes so that was a quick job.
Trunk lining and carpet is out for washing and cleaning along the front floor mats - the bottom ones. I'll have before and afters.... after.
Status now waiting for the bearing.
The Audio 30 APS is in, only connected to front and rear speakers, they are replaced with Clarion speakers by the PO. It's fully serviceable for now.
I kept the Glock box from my E420, so it is installed, predrilled holes so that was a quick job.
Thomas,
That warpage on the midsection on the front bumper did occure on my exLimited, and the reason was long time storage of the bumper. The bumper was off and put upon a cardboard resting on the corners/ends (as on the enclosed image) which I guess many would do to keep it stable. The bumper remained in storage in that position for several years, and during the summer heat it was sagging and gradually stretched over the midsection. So when I put the car together prior to the sale the bumper missed the fender flares with approx. 20mm++ on both sides! I had to press it in position to line up properly with the fender flares, and after that the midsection became heavily warped like that. I think the only way to straighten it is to cut slots in each bulge, heating & massage, followed by plastic welding the slots again. Even then I don't think it would straighten properly without adding a bracing of some kind on the backside, supposed it is space enough for that.
That warpage on the midsection on the front bumper did occure on my exLimited, and the reason was long time storage of the bumper. The bumper was off and put upon a cardboard resting on the corners/ends (as on the enclosed image) which I guess many would do to keep it stable. The bumper remained in storage in that position for several years, and during the summer heat it was sagging and gradually stretched over the midsection. So when I put the car together prior to the sale the bumper missed the fender flares with approx. 20mm++ on both sides! I had to press it in position to line up properly with the fender flares, and after that the midsection became heavily warped like that. I think the only way to straighten it is to cut slots in each bulge, heating & massage, followed by plastic welding the slots again. Even then I don't think it would straighten properly without adding a bracing of some kind on the backside, supposed it is space enough for that.
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Thank you for that info Arnt!Thomas,
That warpage on the midsection on the front bumper did occure on my exLimited, and the reason was long time storage of the bumper. The bumper was off and put upon a cardboard resting on the corners/ends (as on the enclosed image) which I guess many would do to keep it stable. The bumper remained in storage in that position for several years, and during the summer heat it was sagging and gradually stretched over the midsection. So when I put the car together prior to the sale the bumper missed the fender flares with approx. 20mm++ on both sides! I had to press it in position to line up correctly with the fender flares, and after that the midsection became heavily warped like that. I think the only way is to cut slots in each bulge, straightening by heating & massage, followed by plastic welding the slots again. Even then I don't think it would straighten properly without adding a bracing of some kind on the backside, supposed it is space enough for that.
View attachment 183765
I'll be removing both bumpers to check for corrosion and mount them properly, as good as I can get them.
For starters, I work at a company that specialises in recovery of damage machines of all sorts, mainly fire damages. So I've accumulated a lot of knowledge on how to clean things.
I also have access to chemicals that are not readily available to the public.But in this case, nothing special really. First I wet the carpets lightly, then I spray on a strong soap/degreaser. Let it sit for about 5 mins, then I agitate with a brush. After that I go over them with a pressure washer, with a oscillating nozzle. This turns the degreaser and water into a thick foam, so I let that sit for a few minutes too, then rinse it off with the pressure washer until it slows down in foaming. To rinse the carpet out of all soap and dirt, I put them in a big water tank that we use to rinse in, but if you don't have a tank, use a normal garden hose to rinse and not the pressure washer since it only creates more foam.
Then it's in our drying room, but you can of course just leave them out to dry, it only takes longer.
Collected the bearing today, replaced it and reassembled it all. The car started up and ran beautifully with no horrible sounds. So that's that problem taken care of. Super happy that I could r&r the bearing with the compressor in situ, it was really easy once I removed the fan shroud. I expected to fight the bearing coming of the compressor axle, but I could just pull it out with my hand. The largest fight was removing the c-clip, really tight there and I did not want to bend the radiator fins. Patience and a good mirror did the job.
AC's working perfectly, compressor engages and disengages as intended. I'll do a AC service later, it's not been checked for at least 16 years.
AC's working perfectly, compressor engages and disengages as intended. I'll do a AC service later, it's not been checked for at least 16 years.
Unfortunately I have a gearbox issue, I'm hoping that you guys can help me out to pinpoint the problem.
The car still have a whining/growling noise, it's only heard once I start driving, not at idle in any gear. It seems to originate from the gearbox area, right side, but it's really difficult to pinpoint. If I rev the engine in N there's no noise at all. It follows the engine revs. The gearbox still shifts very late, and is flaring. No hard shifts or any other strange things. The trans fluid level is fine, the fluid is bright red and looks new (I don't know when it was replaced).
What's going on here? Was my dad correct after all and the trans need a rebuild? Or is it something else?
I know I probably should replace the trans fluid and filter first, but I want your opinion first since I have a feeling it's not that simple.
Error codes read (not really transmission related ofc, but still):
pin 6 code 30
pin 7 code 14
There were other codes but these two are the only ones that comes back after I reset them.
This is such a bummer really
Any ideas?
The car still have a whining/growling noise, it's only heard once I start driving, not at idle in any gear. It seems to originate from the gearbox area, right side, but it's really difficult to pinpoint. If I rev the engine in N there's no noise at all. It follows the engine revs. The gearbox still shifts very late, and is flaring. No hard shifts or any other strange things. The trans fluid level is fine, the fluid is bright red and looks new (I don't know when it was replaced).
What's going on here? Was my dad correct after all and the trans need a rebuild? Or is it something else?
I know I probably should replace the trans fluid and filter first, but I want your opinion first since I have a feeling it's not that simple.
Error codes read (not really transmission related ofc, but still):
pin 6 code 30
pin 7 code 14
There were other codes but these two are the only ones that comes back after I reset them.
This is such a bummer really
Any ideas?
Can you feel any vibration in the gear lever when this noise occurs?
Generally a failing trans is evidenced by a long transition from P or D to R. Many noises can seem like one place and actually another.....like dry worn lower front ball joints worn control arms etc. Removal of your trans pan after you drain and sift the fluids for debris. Remove the valve body when you drop the pan too and see what is what. Plan ahead and get the proper seals for the drain plugs including the torque converter.
Generally a failing trans is evidenced by a long transition from P or D to R. Many noises can seem like one place and actually another.....like dry worn lower front ball joints worn control arms etc. Removal of your trans pan after you drain and sift the fluids for debris. Remove the valve body when you drop the pan too and see what is what. Plan ahead and get the proper seals for the drain plugs including the torque converter.
No vibration in the gear lever, and the transitions between the gears seem fully normal to me, no delays. It all works just as I would expect until I start driving, then the sound starts. It's constant all the way up to 100 km/h, I didn't dare going any faster. Drove it for about 15 minutes, the sound and behavior stayed the same.
I think I have ruled it out, if I while driving put the gearbox in N, the sound will follow the revolution of the engine, not the speed of the car. If I rev in N while rolling, the rev is matched to the throttle pedal. It shouldn't be like that if it was something exiting the transmission is my thinking, but please let me know if I'm wrong - I'm usually a humble man, but even more so now.
I’m w/ Drew on the flex disc and driveshaft support bearing for the growling noise.
Have you checked that the vacuum modulator actually has vacuum? An adjustment to the modulator can possibly fix the flaring.
At the least a fluid & filter change should be done.
OR, Take it to a good Trans Tech and have them service it and go from there.
Good Luck w/ it!
Have you checked that the vacuum modulator actually has vacuum? An adjustment to the modulator can possibly fix the flaring.
At the least a fluid & filter change should be done.
OR, Take it to a good Trans Tech and have them service it and go from there.
Good Luck w/ it!
Is there a good way to check the bearing? And would it really follow the engine revs at speed when in N?
I'll check the vacuum to the modulator too, this sound has kinda thrown me off the most obvious things to do first.
I think I'll take the car out tomorrow and film it so you guys can hear.
To clarify, the noise only occurs in gear while driving AND it follows engine revs, not vehicle speed - correct? If so, I'm guessing it's something with the converter, front/main oil pump, or main shaft bearing. (??)
The shift problems are a separate issue. If all shifts are late (high RPM) you can try adjusting the Bowden cable at the throttle linkage behind the airbox. Small adjustments make a big change in shift RPM, and all shifts are affected equally.
Flaring is likely yet another issue, need to verify the vac modulator is adjusted correctly (should be zero flare at WOT/redline upsfhits), next is checking the B1/K1/K2 springs in the valvebody.
Noise only when driving, follow engine revs not car speed, correct. I even put the car in N while driving, revving the engine while rolling. The sound follows the revs. Once stationary, in P or N, no noise. That's why I thought I'd solved the noise, because the AC compressor bearing were noisy when stationary too, so once I swapped that and started the car, there were no noise. It was not the only noise though...To clarify, the noise only occurs in gear while driving AND it follows engine revs, not vehicle speed - correct? If so, I'm guessing it's something with the converter, front/main oil pump, or main shaft bearing. (??)
The shift problems are a separate issue. If all shifts are late (high RPM) you can try adjusting the Bowden cable at the throttle linkage behind the airbox. Small adjustments make a big change in shift RPM, and all shifts are affected equally.
Flaring is likely yet another issue, need to verify the vac modulator is adjusted correctly (should be zero flare at WOT/redline upsfhits), next is checking the B1/K1/K2 springs in the valvebody.
I'll adjust the Bowden, I didn't want to touch anything until I had the chance to drive the car properly, which I did today. But all shifts are late, it starts off in 2nd as intended, then moves to 3rd late, and will not shift into 4th until about 100 km/h. I'm really easy on the throttle too. After the drive I checked fluid level and that was spot on the upper mark after about 15 mins of driving and then idling in P for about two minutes.
Flaring is difficult to assess when the trans is shifting so high up in speed, but I think it does flare. I'll have to re-assess if I can get the shifts to occur normally.
Thomas, against all odds & hopes - but in case you end up rebuilding or replacing the transmission, it's a newly rebuilt 722.370 for sale in Olso. The seller is the unlucky owner of the stolen E60 AMG which I posted about some time ago. Your car do probably have a 722.365, but I think a 722.370 should work without too many tweaks, experts please chime in and confirm/deconfirm!
I've met the seller several times and bought several parts from him as well, so I'll vote for him without hesitation.
The asking is NOK 35.000 - SEK 34.750 - EUR 3.100 and I think that's a fair price, the transmission is practically new.
www.finn.no
I've met the seller several times and bought several parts from him as well, so I'll vote for him without hesitation.
The asking is NOK 35.000 - SEK 34.750 - EUR 3.100 and I think that's a fair price, the transmission is practically new.
Mercedes automat girkasse 722.370 -Nyoverhalt W124 500E E500 | FINN-torget
Selger en Mercedes automat girkasse 722.370, skulle brukes i en W124 500E / E500 v8, men bilen ble stjålet. Girkassen er helt nyoverhalt, fullstendig demontert og skiftet alt av lameller, bremsebånd, pakninger, o-ringer m.m I tillegg ble converter overhalt. Har en del bilder fra overhalingen...
Wow thank you so much for that info - and yea thats probably less than what I'd pay for a restoration of my transmission today in Sweden with hourly tech rates soaring. I only have 6 hours to Oslo too.Thomas, against all odds & hopes - but in case you end up rebuilding or replacing the transmission, it's a newly rebuilt 722.370 for sale in Olso. The seller is the unlucky owner of the stolen E60 AMG which I posted about some time ago. Your car do probably have a 722.365, but I think a 722.370 should work without too many tweaks, experts please chime in and confirm/deconfirm!
I've met the seller several times and bought several parts from him as well, so I'll vote for him without hesitation.
The asking is NOK 35.000 - SEK 34.750 - EUR 3.100 and I think that's a fair price, the transmission is practically new.
Mercedes automat girkasse 722.370 -Nyoverhalt W124 500E E500 | FINN-torget
Selger en Mercedes automat girkasse 722.370, skulle brukes i en W124 500E / E500 v8, men bilen ble stjålet. Girkassen er helt nyoverhalt, fullstendig demontert og skiftet alt av lameller, bremsebånd, pakninger, o-ringer m.m I tillegg ble converter overhalt. Har en del bilder fra overhalingen...
View attachment 184242 View attachment 184243
I still have several more things to rule out and check before knowing I have a bad trans, but this might be a really nice solution.
And yea, the experts need to chime in too about the possibility of using this trans - it's a blind spot in my knowledge of these cars.
Thank you Arnt!
Thank you Dave! There's hope....722.370 is functionally identical to the 722.365, you can interchange them.
The .370 lacks the secondary pump so you can't tow-start the car, but when was the last time you tow-started any Mercedes, let alone an 036?
So here's the plan:
Replace ATF and filter, I have no indication on when it was last done, I can't find any receipt for either ATF or a filter among my dads records (and he kept all receipts in chronological order), so there's a possibility the fluid and filter is very old. It looks and smells perfect, bright red, no burnt smell. But the fluid and filter can be a decade old for all I know, the car sat for many years in storage. Or replaced six months ago. The point is that I don't know. I may waste €200 on this, but I think it is the right thing to do.
I also need to rule out any other accessory for the sound since it follows the revs. Sure, I can't hear it on idle or stationary, but the easiest thing is to drive the car 100 meters or so without the serpentine belt attached. The noise I'm experiencing is on immediately when driving away, so it should be very apparent. I'll start with this prior to replacing the fluid.
I also need to verify all vacuum functions etc, although I don't think that they will contribute to the sound.
If the sound still persists, I'll have a professional look at it, and if the gearbox is deemed broken, I'll take action then, most likely going with the rebuilt box @500AMM recommended me.
Does it sound like a reasonable plan? Have a missed anything obvious?
Replace ATF and filter, I have no indication on when it was last done, I can't find any receipt for either ATF or a filter among my dads records (and he kept all receipts in chronological order), so there's a possibility the fluid and filter is very old. It looks and smells perfect, bright red, no burnt smell. But the fluid and filter can be a decade old for all I know, the car sat for many years in storage. Or replaced six months ago. The point is that I don't know. I may waste €200 on this, but I think it is the right thing to do.
I also need to rule out any other accessory for the sound since it follows the revs. Sure, I can't hear it on idle or stationary, but the easiest thing is to drive the car 100 meters or so without the serpentine belt attached. The noise I'm experiencing is on immediately when driving away, so it should be very apparent. I'll start with this prior to replacing the fluid.
I also need to verify all vacuum functions etc, although I don't think that they will contribute to the sound.
If the sound still persists, I'll have a professional look at it, and if the gearbox is deemed broken, I'll take action then, most likely going with the rebuilt box @500AMM recommended me.
Does it sound like a reasonable plan? Have a missed anything obvious?
Yea she’s a bit not perfect looks wise. Skuffs, misaligned things, repainted bits etc. Fortunately I can make a lot of it better! And enjoy it!
I’ll swap the grill insert shortly, promise.
I did a test today in the garage, standing still, foot on the brake, in D, and then gently gave throttle. This is about the most painful you can do to a torque converter, but no strange sounds from it, so it should be ok. In theory at least. Same with the main pump, it of course spins with the engine and should make the same sound standing still as in motion. There’s no sound from it standing still, not ant idle, not while revving. Again, in theory.
Went through my dad’s documentation (he had receipts in another binder that I missed) and found a receipt on the trans filter and gasket from 2017. He never kept strict records on what he did when, he mostly kept the receipts, so I don’t know if he replaced the trans fluid and filter then.
I’m now even more convinced to keep my regime of keeping records, heck it’s easy to forget what I did a year ago, let alone someone else’s work a decade on.
I’ve got the trans filter, gasket and oil on its way
I’ll swap the grill insert shortly, promise.
I did a test today in the garage, standing still, foot on the brake, in D, and then gently gave throttle. This is about the most painful you can do to a torque converter, but no strange sounds from it, so it should be ok. In theory at least. Same with the main pump, it of course spins with the engine and should make the same sound standing still as in motion. There’s no sound from it standing still, not ant idle, not while revving. Again, in theory.
Went through my dad’s documentation (he had receipts in another binder that I missed) and found a receipt on the trans filter and gasket from 2017. He never kept strict records on what he did when, he mostly kept the receipts, so I don’t know if he replaced the trans fluid and filter then.
I’m now even more convinced to keep my regime of keeping records, heck it’s easy to forget what I did a year ago, let alone someone else’s work a decade on.
I’ve got the trans filter, gasket and oil on its way
Car looks beautiful Thomas! Looking forward to see what you will do to bring it back fully.
I see the car has no headlight wipers. What's the deal with that? Did your dad not like the look of those? To each their own of course, but to my eyes the 036 without wipers doesn't look complete (sorry @TerryA )
I see the car has no headlight wipers. What's the deal with that? Did your dad not like the look of those? To each their own of course, but to my eyes the 036 without wipers doesn't look complete (sorry @TerryA
)
When my dad bought it back in 2008, headlight wiper delete was a thing, same with the Avantgarde grill insert and clear indicators as you can see on my profile picture taken around -08. I have all the parts and will refit it all, but it's not on the top of my list.Car looks beautiful Thomas! Looking forward to see what you will do to bring it back fully.
I see the car has no headlight wipers. What's the deal with that? Did your dad not like the look of those? To each their own of course, but to my eyes the 036 without wipers doesn't look complete (sorry @TerryA
I like the look (and function) of them even though I wont be going out in the winter a lot with this car.Absolutely.
Sludge-fest in the trans pan!
I think it's been a while since the oil and filter got replaced... Now it'll drip a day or so. The filter is VERY rattly, I know that there is a moving baffle in it, but it does not feel right at all, it's very loose and moves side to side too. I'll soon have a new filter to compare with, maybe it' supposed to be like that. Oil still looks ok and smells ok, but that's a lot of sludge:
Top of filter:
I found quite a lot of slack in the throttle cable, so I adjusted that, and did a very tiny adjustment to the Bowden to line the arrows.
I think it's been a while since the oil and filter got replaced... Now it'll drip a day or so. The filter is VERY rattly, I know that there is a moving baffle in it, but it does not feel right at all, it's very loose and moves side to side too. I'll soon have a new filter to compare with, maybe it' supposed to be like that. Oil still looks ok and smells ok, but that's a lot of sludge:
Top of filter:
I found quite a lot of slack in the throttle cable, so I adjusted that, and did a very tiny adjustment to the Bowden to line the arrows.
Get ready with the like and love button at the end of this post
Waiting for the trans oil and filter, so why not do some cosmetics? The "Avantgarde" grill on the 500E has been a sore spot for me, I never really liked them, not even when they were considered a fully normal mod. My father didn't care, he just replace the indicators with orange one's and he was happy with the look.
But for me it screams Wish-tuning, I don't like it at all, so I need to replace it. I've decided not to throw new parts at this car, usually I would buy a new grill insert. But I will try to reuse instead of buying new, and I have a lot of generic 124 parts. Found a complete grill from a 200E that is intact. Very dirty and faded, but let's make it good again!
Grill insert out of the chrome surrounding
Removed chrome strips and a very thorough degreasing, after that treated with a plastic restorer that I've used for ages, Concept Vista. It's only issue is that it leaves a shiny surface, it's meant to be like that if you want a shiny result, and then you just buff it if you want it matte. As you can imagine, buffing a million square holes took a while.
Assembled bar the star. I reused chrome strips, I had a selection to choose from, found a set without dents and polished them. They are still sandblasted, but look really good a meter away. I also cleaned the hardware, I had a ornament badge in good condition that came out really well after cleaning.
And to the result:
Just a reminder on how it looked a few hours ago:
Waiting for the trans oil and filter, so why not do some cosmetics? The "Avantgarde" grill on the 500E has been a sore spot for me, I never really liked them, not even when they were considered a fully normal mod. My father didn't care, he just replace the indicators with orange one's and he was happy with the look.
But for me it screams Wish-tuning, I don't like it at all, so I need to replace it. I've decided not to throw new parts at this car, usually I would buy a new grill insert. But I will try to reuse instead of buying new, and I have a lot of generic 124 parts. Found a complete grill from a 200E that is intact. Very dirty and faded, but let's make it good again!
Grill insert out of the chrome surrounding
Removed chrome strips and a very thorough degreasing, after that treated with a plastic restorer that I've used for ages, Concept Vista. It's only issue is that it leaves a shiny surface, it's meant to be like that if you want a shiny result, and then you just buff it if you want it matte. As you can imagine, buffing a million square holes took a while.
Assembled bar the star. I reused chrome strips, I had a selection to choose from, found a set without dents and polished them. They are still sandblasted, but look really good a meter away. I also cleaned the hardware, I had a ornament badge in good condition that came out really well after cleaning.
And to the result:
Just a reminder on how it looked a few hours ago:
Looks great. The latch pull always mucks up the shiny black (or matte as the case may be). After I installed the grille style, that little tab on the bottom to help elevate left a mark I cannot get out. I eliminated the lifting nub under the pull some, but after I noticed the markings.
I missed that it was a facelift latch pull on the car, so I'll have to get a proper one from the parts car.
I bought a new grille insert for my E420, and it is semi-matte from the factory. And it is not a very dark grey either IIRC.
Luckily they are plentiful, and as long as they're not broken, they are quite easy to get looking good again. The aluminum strips are more difficult though.
I missed the trans pan photos. Arnt is correct, that isn't bad... there is normally a fine layer of swarf at the bottom. I don't see any thick buildup, nor any chunks of friction material. Clean it all up, change filter & fluid, and pull the B1/K1/K2 spring trains to make sure no springs are broken.
