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Camshaft Adjuster Magnet leaking
- Thread starter dado95
- Start date
Dave are there any disadvantages to the late style except for the armature and bolt replacement which are dirt cheap by the way? If the 119 solenoids are just as good quality as the 104 ones, I would consider the new and cheaper style as long as there are no disadvantages. I read in your doc that all you have to do is swap the armature and the bolt torque is 5Nm +90 deg. Is that all?
Another little detail:
your PDF shows the late style as :
119 051 0077 not 119 051 0177
and the late style armature as 119 051 0043 not 111-051-00-43
Also the bolt has to be replaced because it cannot be reused, but is there difference in the bolt PN for the late style?
Thanks !
Another little detail:
your PDF shows the late style as :
119 051 0077 not 119 051 0177
and the late style armature as 119 051 0043 not 111-051-00-43
Also the bolt has to be replaced because it cannot be reused, but is there difference in the bolt PN for the late style?
Thanks !
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Ivan, for the record I have not yet done the solenoid swap. But I believe all your info above is correct. You can use the late (cheaper) solenoid with the late armature, and a new bolt. Should all be plug & play... according to the FSM anyway!
Finally got a photo. I need to get a better one, but anyway, you get the idea. This is AFTER sealing the solenoid to the head using the MB anaerobic sealant.
It is a last ditch effort to solve leak scenario #3 mentioned in post #46 above, before buying new solenoids.
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Finally got a photo. I need to get a better one, but anyway, you get the idea. This is AFTER sealing the solenoid to the head using the MB anaerobic sealant.
It is a last ditch effort to solve leak scenario #3 mentioned in post #46 above, before buying new solenoids.
So... Is the externally applied stop-leak stopping the leak?
Yup. Or at least 99%. Replacing the solenoids with new ones would be the preferred fix, but if you have limited time or $$$, this is a decent Band-aid.
I would advise against this, but it's too late now, Doug.
The black stuff is similar to RTV where it acts like glue. I damaged one solenoid removing it from the head thanks to a PO using RTV. The correct anaerobic stuff allows easy removal and won't let dingleberries of squished-out sealant get into the crankcase and oil sump pickup. As long as you don't need to pull the solenoids, you won't need to worry about it... IIRC, your car had new rails & chain installed so it's likely a non-issue for many years.I have used the MB black stuff to seal around the solenoid electrical connector. My only beef with the MB black sealant is that it takes for-ev-er to dry... like a week before it's not tacky anymore. I really dislike that, but otherwise it seems to seal pretty well.
The con vs. the anaerobic is that is becomes brittle, fails and leaks. That happened at the engine rear cover as well as the solenoid(s) for me.
I've had good experience with the black sealant. Most OEMs are using it. It is private labeled as "the right stuff" My Toyota Land Cruiser uses is for the transmission oil pan seal, thermostat gasket and more. It can be installed and filled the same day. I guess even when tacky, it doesn't leak.
I apply a VERY thin coat of the black when sealing machined surfaces. More and you can end up with very undesirable squeeze out (and dingleberries as you put it!)
If I were to remove, I'd probably try to cut it with a thin exacto blade without scratching either metal surface. Yes, it is glue-like.
Doug
I've had good experience with the black sealant. Most OEMs are using it. It is private labeled as "the right stuff" My Toyota Land Cruiser uses is for the transmission oil pan seal, thermostat gasket and more. It can be installed and filled the same day. I guess even when tacky, it doesn't leak.
I apply a VERY thin coat of the black when sealing machined surfaces. More and you can end up with very undesirable squeeze out (and dingleberries as you put it!)
If I were to remove, I'd probably try to cut it with a thin exacto blade without scratching either metal surface. Yes, it is glue-like.
Doug
When I changed the chain rails on my car, I used the Loctite 574 sealant. I coated the solenoids not only on the mating surfaces but also but a thin bead around the outter rim and connector. They still leaked.
Last month when I rebuilt my heads, I used permatex brand anaerobic sealant and gave them the same treatment. They haven't leaked a drop since. The Permatex stuff seems to have a different, more jelly-like consistency and is red-translucent in color. The Loctite stuff, iirc, was neon orange. The best part about the permatex is that it is available at the local O'Reilly Autoparts store for only $10.99 whereas the Loctite was about $20 and online order only (for me).
Last month when I rebuilt my heads, I used permatex brand anaerobic sealant and gave them the same treatment. They haven't leaked a drop since. The Permatex stuff seems to have a different, more jelly-like consistency and is red-translucent in color. The Loctite stuff, iirc, was neon orange. The best part about the permatex is that it is available at the local O'Reilly Autoparts store for only $10.99 whereas the Loctite was about $20 and online order only (for me).
Justin, if you used anaerobic sealant and they still leaked, it was almost guaranteed to be leaking between the halves of the solenoid body, not from the anaerobic sealant. I had the same problem, took me a while to discover the true source. Finally figured it out when I had a solenoid off the car, stored vertically, and oil drops formed at the bottom edge... oil from INSIDE the solenoid, leaking from an area that has no sealant applied. That's what my "external RTV bead" fixes. Anaerobic cannot be used as an external bead because it only cures in the absence of air. Sounds like the Permatex is a different formula if it hardens up externally. True anaerobic will remain liquid for a very, very long time.
The orange stuff will eventually dry out, but it won't seal as an external bead, i.e. around the connector. Per the spec sheets, IIRC, it's designed for case sealing purposes only, and needs to be a pretty small gap to seal effectively... under 1mm I believe? Best to use different stuff for the connector (and external circumferential bead) like RTV or the MB Black / Right Stuff.
New original solenoids are expensive (104-050-01-77, $206 list), but you can convert to the late solenoid (119-051-01-77, $104 list) and late armature (111-051-00-43) for under $80 per side from parts.com. I just hate shelling out to replace stuff that still functions perfectly. Wonder if it's possible to weld the solenoid halves along the edge? That would seal 'em up! LOL!
New original solenoids are expensive (104-050-01-77, $206 list), but you can convert to the late solenoid (119-051-01-77, $104 list) and late armature (111-051-00-43) for under $80 per side from parts.com. I just hate shelling out to replace stuff that still functions perfectly. Wonder if it's possible to weld the solenoid halves along the edge? That would seal 'em up! LOL!
Interesting. That explains why mine still leaked. This permatex stuff may have sealed the connector, or maybe the leak was coming from somewhere else all together. I also replaced the camshaft seals and put sealant on the PS bracket bolt which I didn't realize needed sealing last time around. All I know is that now the front of my engine is staying pretty clean 
I am trying to chase down a minor oil leak. I removed the passenger side solenoid and it is leaking around the connector, see photo. I have the Mercedes orange-colored anaerobic sealant and I have ordered the new style solenoid, armature and bolt. Presume I will need to hold the armature with a wrench while removing/installing the bolt. For those that have done this replacement, anything to watch out for?
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No, not really. Just take your time and clean up the face of the camshaft side. The only other thing would be to carefully torque the bolts to spec w/ a torque wrench. IIRC, GVZ's excellent tandem pump repair how to documents the cam solenoid repair procedure in detail.
I've not yet done this "upgrade" but I will be doing it soon. Make sure the sealing surfaces are completely clean, including the bolt hole threads. Don't forget to apply orange sealant to the bolt threads when installing. If possible, wait 24+ hours before starting the engine - extra curing time never hurts.
Replaced old style solenoid which was leaking oil around the connector with late style (119-051-00-77), which requires the late style armature and a new bolt. The armature needs to be held with a wrench while removing the old bolt and likewise when installing the new armature and bolt. Some photos follow:
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I know this is from the beginning of 2016....
While doing the driver's side camshaft magnet ( mine is leaking just a little ), do you need to remove the P/S reservoir??
thank you in advance.
Christophe
While doing the driver's side camshaft magnet ( mine is leaking just a little ), do you need to remove the P/S reservoir??
thank you in advance.
Christophe
Yes you do have to remove the PS reservoir in order to replace the cam magnet on that side. Remember to only use the MB or Loctite anaerobic sealant for fitting the replacement cam magnet.
Are you replacing the magnets or re-sealing the mating surface? More often than not it's the magnet itself which leaks oil- this is a repair solution http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10318 or otherwise fit new MB magnets.
Also some great info on R&R here- post #49
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3902
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I will put a new magnet.
Also do you know the size of the four female Torx fasteners at the bottom of the reservoir?
I don't want to start taking things apart to realize that I don't have the right size tool
thanks
Also do you know the size of the four female Torx fasteners at the bottom of the reservoir?
I don't want to start taking things apart to realize that I don't have the right size tool
thanks
I will put a new magnet.
Also do you know the size of the four female Torx fasteners at the bottom of the reservoir?
I don't want to start taking things apart to realize that I don't have the right size tool
thanks
They are E8 torx fittings. What part # is your new Magnet? (Some require additional parts to fit correctly)
I am going to order them next week...
it is the new part : [FONT="]119-051-00-77 ( sensor ) , [/FONT][FONT="]111-051-00-43 ( armature), [/FONT][FONT="]104-990-10-04 ( screw ) and [/FONT][FONT="]002-989-47-20-10 ( sealing ) : all for $126.48 ( including shipping )
the passenger side is not leaking, so I am not replacing it now...
thanks[/FONT]
it is the new part : [FONT="]119-051-00-77 ( sensor ) , [/FONT][FONT="]111-051-00-43 ( armature), [/FONT][FONT="]104-990-10-04 ( screw ) and [/FONT][FONT="]002-989-47-20-10 ( sealing ) : all for $126.48 ( including shipping )
the passenger side is not leaking, so I am not replacing it now...
thanks[/FONT]
quick question : I am also replacing the gasket of the p/s reservoir...does the gasket need some sealant as well or not?
thanks in advance.
christophe
edit : I have deciding to re-seal ( the camshaft magnet ) first instead of replacing and watch if there is still a leak....the leak right now is really minor
thanks in advance.
christophe
edit : I have deciding to re-seal ( the camshaft magnet ) first instead of replacing and watch if there is still a leak....the leak right now is really minor
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Yes, I am actually looking at it right now..... I also saw that you did re-seal the camshaft magnet, so i am going to try that first instead of putting a new one
Bear in mind that the magnet Oil Leaks can be from the magnet itself. Re-sealing the magnet back to the engine housing will not repair a leaking magnet. (Since the oil leaks from the magnet housing edges)
If you check out my Magnet repair DIY linked above in post #71 you will know what I mean.
If you check out my Magnet repair DIY linked above in post #71 you will know what I mean.
Hello all,
I will be replacing my magnetic sensor pretty soon.....
I, however, have a question : Do any of you have use TRUCKTEC camshaft sensor, and do you recommend them??
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...ommand=DWsearch&description=119-051-00-77-INT
Thank you in advance..
christophe
I will be replacing my magnetic sensor pretty soon.....
I, however, have a question : Do any of you have use TRUCKTEC camshaft sensor, and do you recommend them??
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin...ommand=DWsearch&description=119-051-00-77-INT
Thank you in advance..
christophe
Trucktec: NOOOOOOOOOOOO!! Absolutely not. Ever. Only get OE/OEM.
Here's the mfr quality list, note Trucktec's well-deserved position:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1919
Here's the mfr quality list, note Trucktec's well-deserved position:
http://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1919
ok..thanks
Getting the OE then
Getting the OE then
Please do NOT EVER use Trucktec parts on your car. By using these parts, you deface your car and humiliate it by installing garbage onto it.
Here's a very short saga of what happened when I found a small, Trucktec plastic cap installed on a former 124 vehicle that I owned:
Here's a very short saga of what happened when I found a small, Trucktec plastic cap installed on a former 124 vehicle that I owned:
Next I removed the plastic plug in the engine housing, which allows access to the back side of the torque converter. This was for a later step where I would remove the six bolts that hold the torque converter to the engine flywheel.
And when I removed the plug, and turned it over, lo and behold what did I find?!? A "Trucktec" part ... basically the equivalent of a URO part. I raced down my driveway with this highly toxic, faux hot potato part in my hand, and flung it off my property just as far as I could. No wonder my transmission decided to give up the ghost .. it was rejecting that crap part near it. And to think that this $3.00 factory part had been replaced by a cheap, ersatz part. Shiver me timbers !!
View attachment 27696
Never buy Trucktec... its just bad quality..
If the cam adjust solenoid is on that tight... the last muppet mechanic probably did NOT use the correct anaerobic sealant. Sounds like you are learning the hard way what happens with the wrong sealant.
I think you're right.....it looks like there is a grey sealant around the outside, at the top. I think it is RTV !!
RTV is like cement. Worst case you could damage the solenoid during removal and have to replace it. With some careful prying it may come off, but you might need to pull the valve cover and slide a putty knife down there to break the seal.
If it was me and I was renewing the solenoid anyway I would weld a nut and attach a Slide Hammer to the face of the solenoid itself - near an edge and 'thwack' it off that way. Trying to pry it off now is highly likely to damage the sealing face. Granted not everyone has a welder and slide hammer but thought I'd mention anyway. Only way I can think of getting that off without damaging the engine casing IF it won't budge with sharp hits of a deadblow hammer
