HOW-TO: Check W124 steering linkage joints for play

[gsxr]

I forgot to mention - if you can source a tie-rod popper tool similar to the one below, they work really well. No hammering required. Works great for tie rods, but space is very constrained for the drag link... still works, but the steering wheel may have to be turned to the exact position needed for tool clearance. There is a nifty OE drag-link popper but it's NLA and was $$$ when available.

 

[Jlaa]

Here is a video on the tie rods for my 94’ E420.. I used lemf R129 inner and outers swapped onto stock tubes. Went pretty smooth and I was able to get the alignment pretty close for the time being.

How to Change Tie Rods - Mercedes E420 W124

Good video! Are balljoint separators that dangerous if you leave the nut on the balljoint? I cringe when I see hammering.

 

[anderzen]

Not necessarily, but no damage is done to anything that is staying as long as you use the pickle fork properly. If I were removing the joints to be re used for whatever reason then maybe I’d use but don’t see that happening. Pickle forks have just always been a much less violent pop in my experience compared to the separators, Mercedes specific ones are probably good though but never used.

 

[Jlaa]

FYI. OE/Genuine tie rod assemblies purchased in the past 12 months, were all made in Germany by either HEYD or Lemforder, all painted black:

W124, non-V8:​

Left = 124-330-08-03, painted black, made by HEYD​

Right = 124-330-09-03, painted black, made by Lemforder​

​

W124, V8:​

Left = 124-330-20-03, painted black, made by Lemforder​

Right = 129-330-03-03, painted black, made by HEYD​

​

R129:​

Left = 129-330-02-03, painted black, made by HEYD​

Right = 129-330-03-03, painted black, made by HEYD​

Some photos are on my website, I need to get pics of the non-V8 links.



I performed the "squeeze test" on brand-new, Genuine MB, 6-cyl tie rods (listed above, #08 Heyd, #09 Lemforder). Zero vertical play on the new ones, same as the new V8 tie rod ends/assemblies.

FYI - Here is a comparison of a German-made Lemforder 129-330-03-03 vs. a German-made MB (made by HEYD) 129-330-03-03.

1. Lemfs come with new nuts @ the balljoint, the MB HEYD ones do not.
2. Lemfs have a slightly finer finish than the MB HEYDs
3. Lemfs have slightly nicer machining of the rectangular slot, where the tie-rod end screw into, than the MB HEYDs
4. Overall diameter of the main tube is about the same
5. MB HEYDs have a thicker casting on the tie-rod-end - by 3mm (approx 20% thicker casting).
6. Both have zero-vertical play at the balljoints when tested with big-ass-channel locks.

Not sure if any of this means anything, but I submit this info below.

 

[gerryvz]

 

[Jlaa]

A few more MB ones have now arrived at my doorstep to augment my Lemf ones.

 

[Jlaa]

​

R129:​

Left = 129-330-02-03, painted black, made by HEYD​

Right = 129-330-03-03, painted black, made by HEYD​

@gsxr - actually I am not sure I know what the difference is between these two assemblies. Both tie rod ends are threaded the same way. CW on the right end makes the rod-end go out. CW on the left end makes the rod-end go in. . Any ideas?

 

[gsxr]

@gsxr - actually I am not sure I know what the difference is between these two assemblies. Both tie rod ends are threaded the same way. CW on the right end makes the rod-end go out. CW on the left end makes the rod-end go in. . Any ideas?

I think years ago, the left side was painted green. I don't believe there is any mechanical difference. @Klink may know... wherever he is...!