The insulators are not something to spend a ton of $$$ on. I believe with all good components, the engine will actually run normally with NO insulator present at all. I need to experiment and test this theory, and post a video if my prediction is accurate. The insulators generally only cause problems when the weird liquid appears on the BACK side (it is not water, it never evaporates). If the insulators are dry on the back, they should not cause misfiring.Well, my price for the OE MB insulators is $125/ea. I'm cheap, but not stupid. I was curious, but by no means was I expecting the Uro part to be as good as Bosch. I was going to test it against the Bosch part and see how long it lasted. I won't touch a Uro mechanical/moving/load bearing part, but this part just needs to block voltage and withstand heat, so the risk is low. Not hard to change either.
Aftermarket Bosch insulators are the same as OE/dealer, btw. No point in paying more for them. These used to be as low as $40 each for Bosch aftermarket. Can't find them now under $80 each.




