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HOW-TO: Solving M119 Stumbling at Ignition Distributor Caps

Well, my price for the OE MB insulators is $125/ea. I'm cheap, but not stupid. I was curious, but by no means was I expecting the Uro part to be as good as Bosch. I was going to test it against the Bosch part and see how long it lasted. I won't touch a Uro mechanical/moving/load bearing part, but this part just needs to block voltage and withstand heat, so the risk is low. Not hard to change either.
The insulators are not something to spend a ton of $$$ on. I believe with all good components, the engine will actually run normally with NO insulator present at all. I need to experiment and test this theory, and post a video if my prediction is accurate. The insulators generally only cause problems when the weird liquid appears on the BACK side (it is not water, it never evaporates). If the insulators are dry on the back, they should not cause misfiring.

Aftermarket Bosch insulators are the same as OE/dealer, btw. No point in paying more for them. These used to be as low as $40 each for Bosch aftermarket. Can't find them now under $80 each.

:spend:
 
Started the car today, the whole left distributor was dead. Engine would not run with right distributor coil unplugged. Swapping left coil made no difference. Spark from coil was very strong. Swapped left rotor to right side, the issue followed the rotor. I looked closer at the rotor, and found that it is an OE MB Beru rotor with star and P/N with 2015 date code. I was kinda surprised it would fail with so few miles. Replacement Bosch rotor is on the way from FCP Euro.
 
Replaced the faulty rotor with a Made in Spain Bosch rotor. The screws are ACTUALLY 3MM NOW!!! I felt pretty good just warming up, But I didn't have time to drive it until yesterday. It's better, but still misfiring and bogging under load under 2500rpm. Idles fine. I'm going to put the new Uro insulator back in and try again. My wife just had a hip replacement, so I don't have much time between assisting her, and taking care of the kids.
 

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