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HOW-TO: Removing & Replacing 722.3 transmission (W124/M104)
- Thread starter gerryvz
- Start date
neil
Different variants of the transmission have different bolt patterns (also depending on whether the engine is a four, six, eight or twelve-cylinder model.
To get to the two top-most bolts at the top of the transmission, it is best to lower the rear end of the transmission an inch or two by removing the transmission (rear) mount. This allows the powertrain to tip backward on the motor mounts, and opens up a bit more room to access the top-most bolts. On the six-cylinder M104, I didn't find the top-most bolts to be inordinately difficult to reach; however tightening them was overall a bit more difficult than loosening them was.
If I remember correctly, there is one bolt on the driver's side at the top that is above the top-most starter bolt (so it would be at the 11 o'clock position) and there is one that is at the 1 o'clock position on the passenger side. To get at these, it is a very good idea to have a combination of 12-inch and six-inch extensions for a 3/8"-drive ratchet, along with a "wobbly" extension that allows access from an angle.
On my M104, I was successful at getting to all bolts from BELOW the car. I do not know if this is possible on the eight-cylinder M119 models, but I have heard that the top-most bolts can be accessed easier on the V-8s from ABOVE. Perhaps one of our technicians or GSXR can clarify/confirm this. All engine-to-transmission bolts are torqued to around the ~55 Nm level, if I remember correctly, on the M104.
When re-installing the transmission, it is exceedingly important to get things lined up properly. It's best when you get the transmission bell-housing generally aligned with the back of the engine block, to replace the bolts at the "3" and "9" o'clock positions first, and then insert the other bolts. These bolts are easily accessible (one of them on the M104 would be the bottom starter bolt) and easy to tighten. This will mate the two halves of the bell housing and block, and make for insertion of the other bolts easier. Do not tighten/torque the bolts until all have been inserted. I torqued mine down in a more-or-less cross-hatch pattern, not sequentially around the circumference of the bell housing.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Gerry
To get to the two top-most bolts at the top of the transmission, it is best to lower the rear end of the transmission an inch or two by removing the transmission (rear) mount. This allows the powertrain to tip backward on the motor mounts, and opens up a bit more room to access the top-most bolts. On the six-cylinder M104, I didn't find the top-most bolts to be inordinately difficult to reach; however tightening them was overall a bit more difficult than loosening them was.
If I remember correctly, there is one bolt on the driver's side at the top that is above the top-most starter bolt (so it would be at the 11 o'clock position) and there is one that is at the 1 o'clock position on the passenger side. To get at these, it is a very good idea to have a combination of 12-inch and six-inch extensions for a 3/8"-drive ratchet, along with a "wobbly" extension that allows access from an angle.
On my M104, I was successful at getting to all bolts from BELOW the car. I do not know if this is possible on the eight-cylinder M119 models, but I have heard that the top-most bolts can be accessed easier on the V-8s from ABOVE. Perhaps one of our technicians or GSXR can clarify/confirm this. All engine-to-transmission bolts are torqued to around the ~55 Nm level, if I remember correctly, on the M104.
When re-installing the transmission, it is exceedingly important to get things lined up properly. It's best when you get the transmission bell-housing generally aligned with the back of the engine block, to replace the bolts at the "3" and "9" o'clock positions first, and then insert the other bolts. These bolts are easily accessible (one of them on the M104 would be the bottom starter bolt) and easy to tighten. This will mate the two halves of the bell housing and block, and make for insertion of the other bolts easier. Do not tighten/torque the bolts until all have been inserted. I torqued mine down in a more-or-less cross-hatch pattern, not sequentially around the circumference of the bell housing.
Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Gerry
You need two extensions and a swivel in the middle of the two extensions. That gives you one length of extension "straight on" to the bolt for six inches or so, and then the swivel pointing back and at a downward angle with the second (longer) extension attached, and then the ratchet. Also, it makes the job 100% easier if you remove the transmission mount, which allows the transmission to swivel downward an inch or two at the rear, giving easier access. All of the bolts can be accessed from below the car. the top-most bolt on the right side was accessed from the passenger side of the car, and the top-most bolt on the left side from the driver's side below the car.
It's not that horrible to get at, as long as you have the extensions that you need and that critical swivel.
It's probably possible to do it from above as well, but I did not try it as room seemed more limited than from beneath the car.
It's not that horrible to get at, as long as you have the extensions that you need and that critical swivel.
It's probably possible to do it from above as well, but I did not try it as room seemed more limited than from beneath the car.
Gerry, just curious if you were able to break loose these transmission bolts with the 3/8" drive and extensions or did you need to go with a 1/2" drive and extensions due to the torquing tendencies and length involved. I once had to use a 1/2" drive on my starter bolt when I used two log extensions. Maybe the bolt was just overtightened, but the 3/8" extensions just twisted about 90 degrees and wouldn't break it loose.
EDIT:
Disregard. It looks like you used the 3/8" drive.
EDIT:
Disregard. It looks like you used the 3/8" drive.
Yes, I was easily able to use 3/8" ratchet and extensions for the transmission bolts (including the two starter bolts in the bell housing). The torque spec for the transmission-to-block bolts is only 55 Nm, though I realize that when removing them they may be fused/frozen and require more effort. However, I did not have any problem removing them, and this was probably because (in large part) the car had lived in Western and Southern climates, so little surface corrosion and rust exists to glaze bolts and fuse things together through surface corrosion.
Cheers,
Gerry
Cheers,
Gerry
Gerry, firstly thank you for the write-up. I need to remove my transmission again. The first time was to replace the reverse clutches which were going, and a mechanic I'm friendly with told me that if I let it go, it would give me bigger problems later on. I replaced the rear crankshaft seal as a 'while you're there' operation and while it was barely wet, I figured 'just do it, you don't want to go in there again'.
After the joy of putting everything back together again and discovering that I can put parts in a transmission and it'll still move, I noticed oil leaking from the seal that I had replaced. So I've got to do it all over again. Don't think I dislodged the retaining spring on the seal but after seeing the carrier that you replaced with it, I think that things could have dislodged from its original seating. I checked the surface of crankshaft, it's still smooth all the way through so it's not that.
That being said, I need a little help. I also try to replace surrounding things as needed when I'm doing a job and I couldn't find part numbers for the following:
1)Water drain from top of transmission tunnel. Seemed like it was 124 832 00 25 but it doesn't turn up on a search.
2)A/c drains
3) Plastic retaining plug in post #56 (last picture)
4) Transmission flywheel bolts access cover
Also (and this might be the most important) How did you turn the engine for access to the flywheel bolts? This to me (aside from the top bellhousing to block bolt) was the most frustrating part of the job. You barely mentioned it as being a snag so I'm curious to your method. I don't have a single bolt for the crankshaft pulley if there's a change in engines. I have the multiple bolts.
After the joy of putting everything back together again and discovering that I can put parts in a transmission and it'll still move, I noticed oil leaking from the seal that I had replaced. So I've got to do it all over again. Don't think I dislodged the retaining spring on the seal but after seeing the carrier that you replaced with it, I think that things could have dislodged from its original seating. I checked the surface of crankshaft, it's still smooth all the way through so it's not that.
That being said, I need a little help. I also try to replace surrounding things as needed when I'm doing a job and I couldn't find part numbers for the following:
1)Water drain from top of transmission tunnel. Seemed like it was 124 832 00 25 but it doesn't turn up on a search.
2)A/c drains
3) Plastic retaining plug in post #56 (last picture)
4) Transmission flywheel bolts access cover
Also (and this might be the most important) How did you turn the engine for access to the flywheel bolts? This to me (aside from the top bellhousing to block bolt) was the most frustrating part of the job. You barely mentioned it as being a snag so I'm curious to your method. I don't have a single bolt for the crankshaft pulley if there's a change in engines. I have the multiple bolts.
The rubber water drain at the top of the transmission tunnel is a collector from the under-windshield area. The part number for this is 124 830 00 25
Two of these are needed; part number 140 830 01 96. Be sure to get the two clamps for them as well -- part number 126 995 00 46 !!
I am not sure what this number is; I re-used my original retainer. I believe the number may be 126 257 00 40. If it is, MB is indicating that it is no longer available.
This part number is 102 014 00 33
I simply used a 1/2" drive, 27mm socket on the front crankshaft bolt. I used a long handle so that I could reach the handle while underneath the car to turn it. You must always turn the engine clockwise. If you cannot do this, then you should have a "helper" bump-start the car via the key. But I am not familiar with a situation on an M104, M117 or M119 engine whereby you would NOT be able to turn the engine via the front crank bolt.
Wow, thanks for the quick reply. I'll look again at the crankshaft nut. Was almost positive that there wasn't one. This will make it much easier of course. I'll get together my order now for the job. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be asking more but this is very good for now.
God bless you Gerry!
I'm in the middle of a trans swap on our '95 E320 Wagon right now! The trans took a dump starting with losing reverse. Then all forward gears gave out. Having been a helicopter mechanic in the army, I can usually figure stuff out. I had the Trans out and starting to swap the sensors, kick down, neutral safety, etc...when I came across your thread. I'm installing a used trans while I rebuild the original. It's so funny, I have the same jack and everything! And had the same problem with that 3", or so, to get it out from under the car on the jack. The used replacement is on the jack now and I'm installing it tomorrow. I was hoping you had found some magic to fit it back under the car on the Jack but it looks like I'll be muscling it onto the Jack under the car in the morning.
I'm saving your thread for when I reinstall the rebuilt transmission. Your step by step and photos of the "soft" work while the tunnel is clear is awesome.
You didn't happen to post a thread on rebuilding 722.3xx have you?!! No, that would be to perfect!
Thanks again, you're awesome!!!
I'm in the middle of a trans swap on our '95 E320 Wagon right now! The trans took a dump starting with losing reverse. Then all forward gears gave out. Having been a helicopter mechanic in the army, I can usually figure stuff out. I had the Trans out and starting to swap the sensors, kick down, neutral safety, etc...when I came across your thread. I'm installing a used trans while I rebuild the original. It's so funny, I have the same jack and everything! And had the same problem with that 3", or so, to get it out from under the car on the jack. The used replacement is on the jack now and I'm installing it tomorrow. I was hoping you had found some magic to fit it back under the car on the Jack but it looks like I'll be muscling it onto the Jack under the car in the morning.
I'm saving your thread for when I reinstall the rebuilt transmission. Your step by step and photos of the "soft" work while the tunnel is clear is awesome.
You didn't happen to post a thread on rebuilding 722.3xx have you?!! No, that would be to perfect!
Thanks again, you're awesome!!!
We all love Gerry!Thanks so much for the write up and the part numbers!
I'm starting this same swap on a 92 300D with a 722.418 trans, so a few things are different for me but you have the best write-up I've seen for a trans swap on the w124's!
I also loved seeing all the parts you swapped while having the transmission out. That was one of my biggest questions. You've probably saved me many days of waiting on parts.
I'm starting this same swap on a 92 300D with a 722.418 trans, so a few things are different for me but you have the best write-up I've seen for a trans swap on the w124's!
I also loved seeing all the parts you swapped while having the transmission out. That was one of my biggest questions. You've probably saved me many days of waiting on parts.
Thanks guys - I am happy that this write-up has been helpful, for that is its' purpose and the spirit for which I intended to share it .... to be a reference and inspiration for others to do this job. Certainly the job had its small number of challenges and setbacks along the way, but with a "can do" attitude they were all overcome with little difficulty.
It's not too much of a problem to "muscle" the transmission back onto the jack while under the car. I'm just an average sized guy and it was not too much effort, though having a second person for this particular aspect of the job would be a tremendous help. Moving the old (and then new) transmission from under and back under the car on a moving blanket makes things easy, because you can just pull the blanket where it needs to be to position the transmission correctly.
Please provide updates on how your installs come along.
Cheers,
Gerry
It's not too much of a problem to "muscle" the transmission back onto the jack while under the car. I'm just an average sized guy and it was not too much effort, though having a second person for this particular aspect of the job would be a tremendous help. Moving the old (and then new) transmission from under and back under the car on a moving blanket makes things easy, because you can just pull the blanket where it needs to be to position the transmission correctly.
Please provide updates on how your installs come along.
Cheers,
Gerry
Gerry, still on this. Finally got around to the last steps of taking the transmission off this weekend. Of course I thought of you when a couple of things presented themselves.
1)Did you do anything with the paper oil pan gasket to block by the carrier? With my thinking, even though it was relatively clean (cleaned it some more of course), even if there's one spec of dirt that finds its way in between the gasket and the oil pan from dislodging the carrier to remove it and the seal, it's not going to seal properly. Can I cut it off (which will make a horseshoe shape almost similar to the upper timing chain cover on the M104 engines) and use a metal to metal sealer to make up the difference or is that too wide a gap for such an application even though the bottom bolts will 'pull' it towards the pan?
2) The Y drain tube atop the transmission that I thought was still in good shape, turned out to be more plastic than rubber with leaves etc dropping through as soon as it came off. That's going on the order list. Wouldn't have even thought of checking it if it wasn't for you.
3) The a/c drain tubes also are getting replaced, and I've tried to find it somewhere but can't. How are they replaced? I saw you said to go inside but don't want to take off more than I have to. Does the whole console have to come off or can it be accessed by removing the carpeting panels?
4) The tunnel insulator that you replaced, I thought I was going to leave alone as mine isn't in that bad shape. However with the work I've been doing, I've been noticing that it's just powdering off whenever it's touched and I generally don't like to know I'm breating that stuff in. Since Mercedes doesn't build things the same way they used to (even on the old parts) How is the material of the new one comparable to the old one? The one on it now(original to car) is fibrous and looks like an insulator where the picture(s) I've seen make the new ones seem like textured cardboard.
5) in post #113, all the parts you told me about were available, although the nla one you told me about did have an old pick date on it, so I think it was leftover/bought out stock the seller had.
1)Did you do anything with the paper oil pan gasket to block by the carrier? With my thinking, even though it was relatively clean (cleaned it some more of course), even if there's one spec of dirt that finds its way in between the gasket and the oil pan from dislodging the carrier to remove it and the seal, it's not going to seal properly. Can I cut it off (which will make a horseshoe shape almost similar to the upper timing chain cover on the M104 engines) and use a metal to metal sealer to make up the difference or is that too wide a gap for such an application even though the bottom bolts will 'pull' it towards the pan?
2) The Y drain tube atop the transmission that I thought was still in good shape, turned out to be more plastic than rubber with leaves etc dropping through as soon as it came off. That's going on the order list. Wouldn't have even thought of checking it if it wasn't for you.
3) The a/c drain tubes also are getting replaced, and I've tried to find it somewhere but can't. How are they replaced? I saw you said to go inside but don't want to take off more than I have to. Does the whole console have to come off or can it be accessed by removing the carpeting panels?
4) The tunnel insulator that you replaced, I thought I was going to leave alone as mine isn't in that bad shape. However with the work I've been doing, I've been noticing that it's just powdering off whenever it's touched and I generally don't like to know I'm breating that stuff in. Since Mercedes doesn't build things the same way they used to (even on the old parts) How is the material of the new one comparable to the old one? The one on it now(original to car) is fibrous and looks like an insulator where the picture(s) I've seen make the new ones seem like textured cardboard.
5) in post #113, all the parts you told me about were available, although the nla one you told me about did have an old pick date on it, so I think it was leftover/bought out stock the seller had.
Sun Valley warranty is 2yrs, same as MB. It may even include shipping, I don't recall, but they are about half the price as MB. Also, Sun Valley comes with a reman torque converter, whereas MB does not, which leaves you with a guess on that. The MB rebuilt torque converter is $2700, IIRC. So Sun Valley v. MB was (1) half the price; (2) same warranty; and (3) included the torque converter whereas MB did not. For those reasons, I went with Sun Valley. That's what I knew before I made the decision.
What I learned after making the decision is Marc @ Sun Valley is magnificent to work with. He is tireless in his efforts to please the customer, work with your install shop, answer questions re: tuning the transmission, share his knowledge, etc. I didn't gamble on getting the same from MB -- maybe others can speak to that.
Compared to your local shop, unless they do these "all day, every day" (or close), or they're Jono (respect due), I think Sun Valley is the best bet -- every day of the week and twice on Sunday.
My $.02. Cheers,
maw
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MB and SV are both 2 years / unlimited mileage, correct? I'm not positive since I've not purchased from either.
Yes, typo corrected above. Thanks, GSXR.
maw
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Thanks for your replies ... that's good advice to know ... when the need arises ... like you all, the shops that do these all day, every day and ship out a well warrantied and bench tested product are the ones to trust ...
Congrats on the R & R job ...
regards,
garrison
'92 400E
'95 E320
Congrats on the R & R job ...
regards,
garrison
'92 400E
'95 E320
DO NOT cut the gasket !!!!
You have to be EXCEEDINGLY careful when removing that rear main seal carrier NOT to rip the paper gasket. If you do, then you will need to source a new gasket and cut a piece that will fit into the same location as the torn piece. That, or remove the oilpan and replace the entire gasket. I'm sure that using RTV or other sealant has been done (what hasn't been done?) but if I were you, and you did rip that end of the gasket, I'd cut a replacement piece and insert it.
Aye, indeed ... good proactive maintenance that avoids problems down the road. Only really applicable if you plan to keep the car; most people don't bother and that is OK....
It's a HOW-TO that I never got to before I sold the car. However I did have the tubes and provided them to the new owner. The center console side carpet pieces must be removed and then the tubes can be replaced from inside the car. Best to do this while the transmission is out of the car so you can get at the tubes from both above and below when removing and installing.
Again, a good item to replace. I don't think the MB skimped on quality for this piece for the newer ones. I think that heat and age get to them and they just dry out and get fibrous and cardboard-y in texture, before disintegrating. Again, HIGHLY recommended if yours is significantly degraded.
The plastic plug for the bottom of the transmission housing is probably floating around, becuase they are cheap and I'm sure a lot of them got sold and are sitting in parts bins around the country. If there was an issue, I'm sure that Sun Valley Transmission has hundreds of them lying around their shop and they would be happy to sell or send one for cheap. But it sounds like you got one, which is great.
Good luck on the second part of your job. Take your time .... and be persistent. That's all there is to it.
Thanks for the heads up about the gasket. I'm still trying to think about how about it wouldn't be an issue of dirt getting caught/sandwiched in between the gasket and the oil pan but I'm guessing it's not as big a deal as I'm thinking it could be.
One of my last questions though for anyone who might know, is about the crankshaft seal. I replaced it the first time (it not really needing it) as a 'while I'm there' type of measure. It then started to leak a drop or two every time the car would come to a rest (it leaked while running too). Inspecting it when I pulled the transmission off, I pretty much narrowed it to coming from the space between the seal and the crankshaft. When removing the seal, I was expecting to find an 'aha' but there was none. The spring is still in place, the lip is still smooth and not torn or bent. There is no indentation of the crank from wear from the seal.
I'm really scratching my head on this one. Can anyone offer up what I should be looking at? I installed the seal to sit right out the outer edge (flush) of the carrier.
One of my last questions though for anyone who might know, is about the crankshaft seal. I replaced it the first time (it not really needing it) as a 'while I'm there' type of measure. It then started to leak a drop or two every time the car would come to a rest (it leaked while running too). Inspecting it when I pulled the transmission off, I pretty much narrowed it to coming from the space between the seal and the crankshaft. When removing the seal, I was expecting to find an 'aha' but there was none. The spring is still in place, the lip is still smooth and not torn or bent. There is no indentation of the crank from wear from the seal.
I'm really scratching my head on this one. Can anyone offer up what I should be looking at? I installed the seal to sit right out the outer edge (flush) of the carrier.
I didn't worry about any dirt getting in between the gasket and the pan. Not sure how that could really happen. Before you remove, just clean the area up real good with brake cleaner and make sure there's no major dirt for 4-5 inches around the area, and you should be good.
You need to offset the seal by a bit so that it has a fresh purchase on the end of the crank, and you should be good. There is a "repair size" crank seal for the rear that offsets it a few mm ... you should consider getting one of those.
Cheers,
Gerry
You need to offset the seal by a bit so that it has a fresh purchase on the end of the crank, and you should be good. There is a "repair size" crank seal for the rear that offsets it a few mm ... you should consider getting one of those.
Cheers,
Gerry
The carrier is removed and gasket came up from the oil pan when the carrier came off. That's how I realized it was there and not a sealer type gasketing. Area was generally clean but all you need is one speck. I won't mind it as much and will clean it thoroughly before it goes back together.
I don't know about using the repair seal. The seal wasn't leaking before (maybe a little moist around the area, if that) and the car has relatively low miles (127k) and was maintained well by po. No scoring or grooving on crank. Making me scratch my head. I've installed a few crank seals before and this is the only one that has given me problems. I may seat it further in the carrier. Anyways, I have time as this is not my daily driver and might even get a mechanic who knows these cars thoroughly for his two cents on this.
Either way, many thanks for the help (not to mention all the other threads you do that keep me entertained and informed) and I'll let you know what the problem was when this is finished.
I don't know about using the repair seal. The seal wasn't leaking before (maybe a little moist around the area, if that) and the car has relatively low miles (127k) and was maintained well by po. No scoring or grooving on crank. Making me scratch my head. I've installed a few crank seals before and this is the only one that has given me problems. I may seat it further in the carrier. Anyways, I have time as this is not my daily driver and might even get a mechanic who knows these cars thoroughly for his two cents on this.
Either way, many thanks for the help (not to mention all the other threads you do that keep me entertained and informed) and I'll let you know what the problem was when this is finished.
How do you reach the top bolts? Still from under the car?
Correct. On the 124.034/.036 it is easier to access the top 2 bolts from above. I can't take credit for this, Steve Geyer of SG Motorsports gave me this tip and he was 110% correct!
No idea on the M104, never pulled a trans on one of these, but since the engine is longer it may indeed be easier to access them from below.
I'm at this stage today using 3/8 drive extensions. If I use an impact wrench, it just bounces around. Using a socket wrench, I can turn the wrench 90 degrees but the bolt wont budge. Do I need to get 1/2 inch drive extensions that wont twist as much?
Hi, I'm new to the forum and really appreciate all the info here. Incredible. My mechanic just installed a rebuilt trans in my 1993 500E. I purchased it from Adsitco. He got to the final steps and discovered that the rear mount that attaching to the rear housing of the transmission doesn't match up from the old trans to the new trans. Adsitco advised to switch out the old rear housing with the housing on the rebuilt trans and they would continue to honor the warranty. Does it sound right to you who have a lot of experience in this area? Apparently they told my mechanic that Mercedes may have changed this part of the transmission at some point during the production. Should I worry about this "fix"? Attached are a few photos. Thanks.
Yikes. First thing I would do is check the serial number on the side and verify it's the proper 722.365 or 722.370 transmission which belongs in the E500E.
If so, then it may be possible to swap out the tail section, but it really makes me wonder what else may be incorrect inside.
If so, then it may be possible to swap out the tail section, but it really makes me wonder what else may be incorrect inside.
I am not aware of MB making such a physical change to the externals of the transmission during production. As far as I know, all 722.365 and 722.370 transmissions are externally the same
My best estimation is that this is not the proper 722.365 or .370 transmission for the application. I agree with the @gsxr that you should check the serial number stamped on the outside to confirm that it’s a .365 or .370.
If not, it should be returned and either replaced with the correct unit, or a full refund issued.
also, check your invoice from Adsit to see what it indicates.
My best estimation is that this is not the proper 722.365 or .370 transmission for the application. I agree with the @gsxr that you should check the serial number stamped on the outside to confirm that it’s a .365 or .370.
If not, it should be returned and either replaced with the correct unit, or a full refund issued.
also, check your invoice from Adsit to see what it indicates.
Semi hijack...
Gerry been a while with this transmission, how's it holding up? How many miles on it?
I'm still on my original one, 267K miles and still running strong. Just had the service done to it, last time was 107K miles ago. I get no flare, hesitation, delay, and reverse is still strong. But like death and taxes, the days are numbered...
Also, is Sun Valley still around and do you have a contact you worked with directly?
Gerry been a while with this transmission, how's it holding up? How many miles on it?
I'm still on my original one, 267K miles and still running strong. Just had the service done to it, last time was 107K miles ago. I get no flare, hesitation, delay, and reverse is still strong. But like death and taxes, the days are numbered...
Also, is Sun Valley still around and do you have a contact you worked with directly?
I don't know, as I sold the car a bit after replacing the transmission. The car went to the @gsxr, then to @Maui, and now I think to @Dbreid who is the current owner. So you would have to ask them.
Sun Valley is certainly still in business. Marc there is the owner (and a forum member here, though not active) and would be the primary point of contact. He knows his stuff on the 722.3s.
Cheers,
Gerry
Sun Valley is certainly still in business. Marc there is the owner (and a forum member here, though not active) and would be the primary point of contact. He knows his stuff on the 722.3s.
Cheers,
Gerry
Any update/resolution on this?
Awesome Thanks.
Just want to add the chorus of people thanking you for this awesome documentation, still relevant in 2020! I am halfway through the same project and it has gone very smoothly so far other than wishing I had read a couple of details more closely. One thing to add for the top filler tube bolt. I used a 6mm allen socket but as there is no room for a ratchet handle and used a 6mm box end wrench and an extension to get the bolt loose. Worked like a champ!
Attachments
Does anyone know off the top of their head, what positions the 2 very slightly longer bellhousing bolts are supposed to fit? Not talking about the long starter bolts. One, I think goes into the hole just above the top starter bolt but I can't figure out where the other one goes. Should have paid better attention when removing but did not notice the difference. There is a bracket for the Bowden cable that is held on by the very top bolt but doing a test fit the bolt just seems a tad long.
Possibly at the bottom sump pan? Where the bolts pass through the sump pan and are held with a nut?
OK too much time looking at pictures and videos of M104 engines. I am fairly sure that one of the bolts fits in the hole adjacent to the oil pressure switch. I think this because the hole is deep enough for the bolt to cinch down on the bellhousing and it is the only bolt with white oxidation on it that matches the hole. From various pictures and videos online it looks like the other bolt fits in the hole by the transmission cooler line at around 3 o'clock. The bolt will protrude through the block but will be able to clamp down the bellhousing. Note to self. Take better notes. Posting because if someone like me missed this detail they could easily end up with a couple of bolts not clamping properly.
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