HOW-TO: Repairing leaking M119 cam advance solenoids / magnets

[gsxr]

Allright, I hope they are not NLA by MB.
Are there things I should take into account when replacing and installing the upgraded armatures ?

It's not easy to do this job with the front head covers mounted. You can't easily get a wrench to hold the flats on the armature because it doesn't poke out of the hole far enough. It can be done, but plan on some headaches. Don't forget to replace the single-use center bolt.

I have a question about replacing these radial shift sealing rings:
I am not very familiar with this procedure but is it a simply draw-out and push-in action ? Should I grease (with oil) the edges of the ones before pulling in ?

Search the forum for details. It's a draw-out / push-in, but similar to the armature, plan on some headaches. I'd install with the outer edge dry.

 

[gerryvz]

There are a several posts on this process here on the forum. It's easier if you remove the entire cover and do it off the car, but it is entirely possible to do it on the car, and folks have posted photos of how they did this.

 

[gsxr]

Gerry has a point. If doing both jobs at the same time, it would be nice to remove the valve covers & front head cover. This simplifies the armature swap AND also the exhaust cam seal replacement. Also - if you have never removed the valve covers, this is a very good idea to inspect all the upper chain rails (assuming they have not been replaced recently0.

If you do this, make sure to only buy OE/Genuine valve cover gaskets (if they are recent, they can be re-used)... new copper seals for the bolts... and use fresh anaerobic sealant for the front head cover AND all bolt threads for the front cover / cam magnet / bolts.

 

[gerryvz]

Here are a couple of illustrated links to it, that I did some years back.

First Link

Second Link

 

[RobertK]

Thanks a lot for all the info. I understand what you are saying. Valve covers have been lifted four years ago. The left one was difficult to put in back in the right way, I remember. De upper plastic chain rails were replaced then.

I have to decide what to do now. It is not really necessary to replace the radial shift sealing rings. No leaks or something. The solonoid magnets are leaking both, that is the real issue I think. Upgrading to the newer ones (119 in the number) is an option, but I understand that this is larger and more extended job to do this in the right way.
I want to drive the car and not only to work on it. Pinpointing, investigate and fixing the issue with the ASR/ABS lights has taken a lot of time and effort for me. Therefore, I choose for re-sealing the current solonoid magnets beside the fact that I know from several threads that the chance for success is not 100%. We will see....This in combination with installing new rotors and caps and insulators (all from Bosch) and not forget: making the extra vents in the caps will hopefully improve the idle- and accerelation problems.

I am considering to buy the upgraded solonoid magnets and the matching armatures from MB and put this on stock for in the future.

 

[gsxr]

Sounds like a good plan. Taking the old solenoids apart is a fair amount of work, but eliminates the hassle of the armature swap, and no need to mess with the valve covers or front head cover. Keep us posted how it turns out!

 

[RobertK]

Of course,
Replacing the rivets is the big challenge. At the moment I have to investigate how to rivete it again (after sealing it internally) and that it is flat.
Only sealing it on the the outside (and not open it) could also give some good results perhaps.

 

[gsxr]

Replacing the rivets is the big challenge. At the moment I have to investigate how to rivete it again (after sealing it internally) and that it is flat.

If using the proper size rivets, this isn't too much of a problem - follow Joe's writeup. If clamped tightly before riveting, there should be no issues with keeping both halves flat / parallel.

Only sealing it on the the outside (and not open it) could also give some good results perhaps.

I've done this with mixed results. It's definitely a Band-Aid. Much preferred to fully remove, disassemble, seal, re-assemble. Also, if you have never removed the cam magnets before, the old sealant is probably toast. And if you have to remove them anyway, might as well do the full Monty.

 

[nocfn]

After a try using koala claw paste, I just decided that the next time I resealed the PS resevoir/shorthose that I would use new bolts/armatures and install new ones. That was about 7-10 years ago without leaking.

 

[RobertK]

Hello,
As I earlier said, I had chosen not to open up the magnets/solonoids for sealing. I have sealed the outside so far I was able to do this. After this I have rebuild everything. I have installed new insulators, rotors en caps (from Bosch).

First test-drive yesterday seemed to be successfull. Everything is fine, no misfiring anymore and during accerelating, there was no hesitation in any case.
The engine pulls very well and everything seems to be normal again.