HOW TO: Replace Rear Subframe Bushings with Miller Tools

[emerydc8]

GSXR EDIT: Attached factory manual procedure, job 35-040, as PDF file - see bottom of post. Both factory tools referenced in the FSM are NLA. The Klann/Gedore tool, KL-0356 may have been available through 2019-2020, but is absent from their 2022-2023 catalogs, and may be NLA now.

I finally decided to try the Miller tools (9110 and 9111) I had purchased to remove and install the front and rear subframe bushings. I took lots of pictures and only did one side today since I am just recovering from walking pneumonia and it just wore me out with 105-degree temperatures outside. It took about 2.5 hours to do one side and probably an hour of that was just screwing around trying to figure out how the tools would help do the job and what I could use instead after they didn't.

Anyway, first I wanted to share some things I learned about the Miller tools, because there was some uncertainty as to whether they would work on my 124.034 (E420). I understand the 124.036 has a different rear bushing than mine, but I still think you might run into the same problems with the Miller tools -- or the factory tools for that matter, if doing this with the subframe on the vehicle.

The rear tool, which is the Miller 9110 will work to extract the large rear bushing (non-Sportline in my case), but you have to do three things to get it to work. First, as Dave said, you will have to drill out the center of the old bushing and the new bushing just a smidge with a 1/2" drill bit, so the threaded tool will fit through the bushing. Second, when you remove the bushing bolts and drop the subframe on the side you're doing (by lowering the jack under the differential), you are probably not going to be able to get it down low enough to get any of the tools on the upper part, so I had to find two large brass washers about 3.8 mm thick (think those used on the transmission mount crossmember?) and drill them out to 1/2 ". The two washers will fit on the top inside of the old rear bushing and the U-part of the tool goes underneath (unlike the front tool U-part that should go on top, because the rear bushings go in and out from below and the front bushings go in and out from the top). Third, you will need to find a large nut to fit on the threads of the Miller tool., since the Miler 9110 doesn't have a simple nut like the 9111. Having done these three things, I used an impact driver and pulled the rear bushing out effortlessly. As for installing the new bushing, the tool was not as helpful due to the lack of space on top. I couldn't pull the subframe down enough to get any piece of the tool on top, so I used only the bottom cylindrical part of the tool and some jacks to push it in from below, using plenty of NAPA Sil-Glyde as lube. The rear bushing went in effortlessly. GSXR edit: No drilling is required if using the 9110 (silver-color) threaded shaft in place of the 9111 (black-color) shaft. They are different diameters. And, one of the 9110 silver plates can be used in place of the nut+washers described above.

The front tool, which is the Miller 9111 was pretty worthless -- Completely worthless for removing the bushing and partly worthless for installing the new one. When I removed the center bolts and dropped the subframe on mine, the core of the front bushing stayed on the body of the car where the metal sleeve sticks down (the sleeve that the bushing-bolt screws into). The core pulled right out of the bushing as I lowered the differential, leaving me with no easy way to push or pull the bushing out even if the tool did work. I used a hammer and large screw driver to tap and pry around the lip of the bushing and then spray Liquid Wrench in there to loosen things up and get the lip about 1/8" off the base. Then from underneath, I placed the screwdriver in the center of the bushing and rapped in and up with a hammer in a few areas, further loosening it. After doing this for about ten minutes, I moved onto a large crow bar and was able to pry it right out from the top. I did nick the inside of the housing a bit with the screwdriver, but I don't think it did much damage and it didn't interfere with the installation of the new bushing. I tried to use the Miller 9111 tool on installation to draw this bushing up into the housing, but again there was simply no room on top because I couldn't get the subframe any lower, even if I tried to pry it with a large crow bar. [GSXR edit: Removing the exhaust hangers & driveshaft loop should allow the subframe to drop lower.] I ended up using one piece of the Miller tool on top of the bushing (just under the sleeve where the bushing bolt screws in) and just used the jack to carefully raise the differential and press the bushing right in. I did it in small increments to make sure it was going in straight and didn't bend the sleeve. You could probably find a piece of hard steel to do the same thing instead of part of the 9111 tool I used but that piece did fit the bushing quite well.

So, the rear tool (9110) works for extraction, but you have to drill the old and new bushings and have two (I used 3.8mm) thick washers that are drilled with a 1/2" bit. You will also have to find a large nut that matches the threads on the 9110. For installation only the bottom part of the 9110 works and just use jacks to press it in. The front tool (9111) is pretty worthless except for the small piece I sandwiched in between the top of the bushing and the sleeve where the bushing bolt goes. Then I jacked up the differential in small increments and pressed it in. GSXR edit: No drilling is required if using the 9110 (silver-color) threaded shaft in place of the 9111 (black-colored) shaft. They are different diameters.

Since, I am not too adept at using this forum software, I'll try to post the steps and individual pictures I took, but I apologize in advance that it will in no way be to GVZ, GSXR or Lowman's standards. I'm sure they can add things below if they want to clarify anything, especially as it relates to doing this on the 500E which I understand has different rear bushings and a rear self-leveling system that may get in the way.


Preparation:

1. Chock front tires.​

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2. Loosen lug bolts on both rear tires.​

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3. Jack up differential with a large jack.​

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4. Place jack stands under both rear jacking points.​

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5. Lower differential jack until car is resting on jack stands, then raise about an inch or two. Check jacks stands for stability (I usually try to knock it off the jack stands with all my weight).​

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6. Remove both rear tires ( you may be able to just remove the side you're doing).​

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7. Remove plastic cover on fuel pumps with 10mm socket (you will need a 1-foot extension and a 10mm deep socket for the rear nut).​

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8. Pull the drain hose on the right side out of the hole, so it is not damaged when lowering the subframe.​

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9, With an impact wrench and 19mm socket, remove the front and rear subframe bushing bolts, only on one side at a time. These will creak badly if you try to do it by hand. Plus they were in there pretty tightly. With an impact wrench there should be little to no creaking noises.​

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10. Lower differential down until the subframe drops away from car. It will hang down about three or four inches.​

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GSXR edit: Also remove rear muffler rubber donut hangers, FSM job step 2. AND, remove the rubber hangers at the catalytic converter to allow additional movement. Remove the 24mm nut for the driveshaft safety bracket, FSM job step 4, only the one side will be accessible. On a 500E, if the 3 muffler bolts are not rusted, just remove the muffler - this isn't possible on a 400E with factory rear muffler that is 1 large piece welded to the resonator.​

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Removing/Installing Rear Bushing:

11. Having pre-drilled the new bushings with a 1/2" drill, you also need to drill out the existing rear bushings as well, so the Miler 9110 tool will fit. GSXR edit: The *rear* bushings should not require drilling, the 9110 (silver-color) tool should fit through without modification. ​

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12. Insert the two large pre-drilled washers (discussed above) in the hole on top of and inside the rear bushing. GSXR edit: One of the 9110 plates can be used instead of a nut with washers, however it is a VERY tight fit. The 9110 plate has a threaded center hole. This will quickly remove both early & late style rear bushings, no prybars required. ​

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13. Use the U-piece of the 9110 on the bottom so it is facing upwards and insert the threaded bolt from below through the large 3.8mm washers and nut that you found to fit the threads of the 9110.​

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14. Use an impact wrench to tighten the threads and the rear bushing should pull right out. If you don't use an impact wrench you will have to hold the nut on top as you tighten the bolt from below. With the impact, I didn't need to do this.​

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15. Clean all surfaces of the bushing housing with brake parts cleaner and Scotch Brite. I also used fine sandpaper on the inside of the bushing housing so it was really smooth for installation. Apply NAPA Sil-Glyde to the inside of the bushing housing as well as the bushing itself.​

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16. Use the round cylindrical part of the 9110 on the bushing and use a jack to press it in from underneath. GSXR edit: If installing late-style bushings, use the 9110 to pull the new bushing into place (no jack required).​

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Removing/Installing Front Bushing:

17. The Miller 9111 tool was worthless for removing the front bushing. You will pretty much have to destroy the old bushing to get it out (my limited experience). Use a hammer and screwdriver to tap around the lip and try to get some space between the lip and bushing housing. Try not to collapse the lip completely. Once you have some space, apply Liquid Wrench liberally and continue to tap around the lip as well as from below and up to loosen the bushing. You should eventually be able to pry the bushing out from the top with a crow bar, especially if the core of the bushing is out. Actually, the fact that the core was out made it easier to get the crow bar in there.​

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18. Clean the bushing housing as before and apply NAPA Sil-Glyde. Place the round flat part of the Miller 9111 tool (see pics) on top of the new bushing, between the bushing and the sleeve where the bushing bolt screws into. Carefully raise the differential in small increments, checking to see that the bushing presses in straight.​

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19. Install new bushing hardware, noting the orientation of the plates, and torque to 70NM.​

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20. Install, the fuel pump cover, re-insert the drain hose, install the tires and lower the car.​

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21. Torque the lug nuts and don't forget to remove the chocks.​

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GSXR edit: If the front bushing will not fully seat using the weight of the vehicle, it will be necessary to use a threaded rod & appropriate plates to pull the bushing tightly into the subframe. I've had the bushing "pop out" 1-2mm or so after pressing in, you can leave the tools in place overnight to clamp it in place, and see if that helps the new bushing remain fully seated when the tools are removed. ALSO, the 9110 (silver-color tool) has a thinner threaded shaft that fits through the front bushing hole, without drilling. ​

Feel free to add to this post. I'm planning to do the other side soon, so I'll share any experiences I have on that.

 

[gerryvz]

OK, Jon, I think this post takes Post of the Month honors.

Thank you very much!

- Gerry

 

[nocfn]

For those who have done both - is this the same for the E500E as in circumstance and procedure?

 

[TerryA]

WOW!! That’s a lotta work!! For me I think it a job I would pay someone else to d

My hat’s off to you Jon.

Can’t wait for the next installment.

 

[sheward]

great post. Thanks for sharing.

drew

 

[LWB250]

This is great!

We've been struggling with doing the subframe bushings on my oldest son's E300D, and this gives us some insight into what a pig of a job it's going to be. We knew it wouldn't be fun, but your writeup and pictures give us a far better idea of what sort of a challenge we're up against.

Thanks!

Dan

 

[gsxr]

Jon, great photos & writeup - thanks! Your experience with the forward bushings coming apart (center portion tearing out) is very common, and as you describe, extracting the shell stuck in the subframe is miserable. Your photo "Preparing to install front" is what I usually do, with a bottle back pressing up from below. Only catch is sometimes it's tight enough that the car will begin to lift off whatever is supporting it.

For those who have done both - is this the same for the E500E as in circumstance and procedure?

Yup.

 

[liviu165]

Never replaced any bushings on a 124, but I did replace all suspension and rear subframe bushings on W/C126. The only comment I would like to make is that instead on using silicone grease I always used with great success a 50/50 solution of water and dish soap. The reason is that after insertion of the bushing, the water+soap dries out and the bushing rubber sticks to the steel like is glued to it.

 

[LWB250]

Never replaced any bushings on a 124, but I did replace all suspension and rear subframe bushings on W/C126. The only comment I would like to make is that instead on using silicone grease I always used with great success a 50/50 solution of water and dish soap. The reason is that after insertion of the bushing, the water+soap dries out and the bushing rubber sticks to the steel like is glued to it.

W126 subframe bushings are a walk in the park compared to the W124. I've done tons of W126 and W123 subframe bushings and they're a piece of cake compared to the W124. You don't even need tools for them.

Dan

 

[liviu165]

I wasn't referring only to subframe bushings, I was referring to all bushings, including rear LCA, front LCA, braking bracing blocks ("dog bones"), basically everything that requires a bushing pressed in.

Anyway, it was a suggestion, not a correction.

 

[Kyiv]

Emerdc8, thanks for sharing this with us! So basically, if one knows what he's doing, it's a 3 hour job for both subframes, correct?I

How many miles on the original bushings?
Do you have a side by side picture of the old and new

 

[emerydc8]

Jon, great photos & writeup - thanks! Your experience with the forward bushings coming apart (center portion tearing out) is very common, and as you describe, extracting the shell stuck in the subframe is miserable. Your photo "Preparing to install front" is what I usually do, with a bottle back pressing up from below. Only catch is sometimes it's tight enough that the car will begin to lift off whatever is supporting it.

You're absolutely right, Dave. I just did the left side and this time instead of the front bushing core tearing off and sticking to the collar, it was fused to the bushing bolt. I had a tough time getting the core off the bolt so I could remove the bolt. As for removing the front bushing, I used the same tools as last time and got a good result.. This time, I was eventually able to get a screwdriver under the bottom inside lip of the front bushing and hammer it up from below (see pics). It popped right out, but I did nick the bushing with a screwdriver in the same place as before. I used lots of PB Blaster and worked my way around the top of the bushing lip, trying to lift it off the bushing base.

I did both front and back as before. The job took about 2.5 hours and probably 45 minutes was used trying to separate the front core from the bushing bolt using a vice grip. It took another 45 minutes to pry the remainder of the front bushing out with a 5-pound sledge and screwdriver/crow bar combination (essential tools!).

Installation was a breeze as before. As I said before, the subframe doesn't drop down too much and there are only a few inches to work with. I could barely get my fingers inside the old rear bushing to insert and hold the large makeshift nut and washers connected to the Miller 9110 removal tool threads. I think the impact driver was a necessity for removing the rear because I didn't have to hold the large nut on top with anything but my fingers. If I had to get a tool on it, I don't know how I could have gotten in there, because there was so little room. Likewise, I could barely sandwich the piece of the Miller 9111 tool between the collar and top of the front bushing to press it in by jacking up the differential.

Anyone doing this job can expect that the hardest part will be dealing with getting the front bushing out. If it's original, it's probably not coming out in one piece! It's a dirty job -- Just expect a mess on the garage floor.

As for using a different lube, I checked the dealer and the original lube is NLA (this was also removed from my order by Naperville). They do have an 8 ounce spray bottle of magic solution that they use now, but they wanted $107. I took a suggestion from GVZ and went with the NAPA SIL-Glyde. I'm glad I did because it worked great! Maybe that's why the bushings pressed in so easily. Hopefully it won't have any adverse effect on the rubber.

 

[emerydc8]

Here's the new bushings and old bushings. Also, here's the Miller 9110 tool for pulling out the large rear bushing (third pic). The original bushings (assuming they've never been replaced) have over 200,000 miles on them.

 

[Kyiv]

Pure orgasm to see that fresh rubber go in. And I do mean it. I think I speak for all of us.

Could you please tell us:

1. How different does the car feel now?
2. Front bushings took a larger beating vs rear (just clarifying)?
3. Please speculate, to the best of your experience/knowledge, assuming "10" is new bushing, "0" no bushing installed, how would YOU rate old bushings (look, feel, etc)

Thanks again for sharing this with us. Pure, high-quality porn (when you're 16, that good!)

 

[emerydc8]

1. How different does the car feel now?

It seems to have a better ride. Actually, there really was a "wow" factor here. Before the new bushings, when I hit a bump (especially a speed bump) there was a noise that sounded like something was loose in the trunk or maybe the spare tire was loose. I remember checking to make sure all the tools were secure and I even placed some rags where the spare tire rested on the chassis.​

2. Front bushings took a larger beating vs rear (just clarifying)?

Definitely. The fronts were shot, as you can see. The larger rear bushings seemed to be intact, although they were smashed down and a bit deformed.​

3. Please speculate, to the best of your experience/knowledge, assuming "10" is new bushing, "0" no bushing installed, how would YOU rate old bushings (look, feel, etc)

I'm not sure what you want me to rate on this question. As stated above, both front bushings were shot. Maybe the front cores had already separated in the car and didn't just tear out when I dropped the differential. In this car there now seems to be a better ride and a "wow" factor when going over bumps.. I didn't expect that the bushings were the cause, but that noise I was hearing is now gone. I just ordered bushings for my other E420 from Naperville.​

If you know what you are doing, I would plan on 3-4 hours to do both sides. I wonder how many hours the shop charges on this. I suspect he factory tools were designed to remove and install the bushings with the subframe pulled out of the car because there is no space on top to use them when just dropping one side as I did. Or maybe there's a way to get the subframe to drop lower than I'm not aware of. As I said, the hardest part is getting the front bushings out.

 

[gerryvz]

@emerydc8 / @gsxr

Would removing the rear sub-frame from the car entirely, make it easier and faster to remove all four of the subframe mounts? Jon, do you think that if there was more room, that the Miller tools would both work much better? I've been contemplating a full rear suspension rebuild (I already have all of the parts) and thinking that a removal of the subframe would be the way to go.

Interested in your thoughts!

 

[JC220]

These tools work a lot better with the subframe removed from the car. The rear tool was excellent – it works very quickly and without having to drill anything. I use a little heat to help as well but not necessary at all. The Millar tool is very capable.




For the front ones, mine also had the centres fall out. So I used heat and just pried them out. When I have subframes out I get them shotblasted and Hot Dip Galvanised…. Overkill but corrosion is gone for good that way.

 

[gsxr]

ould removing the rear sub-frame from the car entirely, make it easier and faster to remove all four of the subframe mounts?

It depends. If you are ONLY replacing the subframe mounts, I wouldn't drop the subframe. It's a lot more work. It also means the tools you have MUST be able to full press the bushings in and out via threaded rods + plates, as you cannot use a hydraulic jack against the weight of the chassis to assist.

If you are doing other work at the same time, and/or just want to fully refresh both the subframe and the chassis floor above the subframe, then it may make sense to remove it. It's possible without a lift, but not easy.

These tools work a lot better with the subframe removed from the car. The rear tool was excellent – it works very quickly and without having to drill anything. I use a little heat to help as well but not necessary at all. The Millar tool is very capable.

Jon & Joe, thanks for the confirmation on the Miller tool usage. Since both were designed for different bushings, I was not sure if either would work for both installation and/or removal of the 'standard' 124 bushings. Nice to see they should be helpful for the job, as most of the other aftermarket tools are NLA. The Millers pop up for sale occasionally but they're not cheap anymore. 10 years ago people were practically giving them away, lol.

 

[Kyiv]

3. Please speculate, to the best of your experience/knowledge, assuming "10" is new bushing, "0" no bushing installed, how would YOU rate old bushings (look, feel, etc)

I'm not sure what you want me to rate on this question. As stated above, both front bushings were shot. Maybe the front cores had already separated in the car and didn't just tear out when I dropped the differential.​

I was just wondering if, in the condition your old front sub-frame bushing are, they still provided some "service", or whether it was the same as if you had no bushings installed.

If you are doing other work at the same time, and/or just want to fully refresh both the subframe and the chassis floor above the subframe, then it may make sense to remove it. It's possible without a lift, but not easy.
View attachment 85989

Dave, what would a "refreshing chassis floor above sub-frame" involve? What can you refresh there? Thanks

 

[gsxr]

Dave, what would a "refreshing chassis floor above sub-frame" involve? What can you refresh there? Thanks

I just meant accessing the space above the subframe, for either cleaning, and/or replacing components up there which are otherwise difficult to access with the subframe attached (fuel tank feed hose, top side of differential, sway bar, etc).

 

[emerydc8]

@emerydc8 / @gsxr

Would removing the rear sub-frame from the car entirely, make it easier and faster to remove all four of the subframe mounts? Jon, do you think that if there was more room, that the Miller tools would both work much better? I've been contemplating a full rear suspension rebuild (I already have all of the parts) and thinking that a removal of the subframe would be the way to go.

Interested in your thoughts!

I think it might, but as Dave mentioned you have no weight of the car to use to press the bushings in. There was so little room above the front bushing that I didn't even get a chance to see if the U-piece of the tool would work. Let me take a look at the 9111 tool and see how it fits on the front bushing. Once I realized there was no room up there, I abandoned using the 9111 except for the one piece I used to press the new bushing in using the weight of the car. I don't know how much work is involved in dropping the subframe but I suspect Dave is right -- if you don't have other things to do under there, it is probably better to do the bushings with the subframe on vehicle.

 

[emerydc8]

Hi Gerry. I checked out the fitment of the Miller 9111 on the front bushing. Presuming you had room to install the U-bracket facing downward on top of the front bushing, I think the tool is a perfect fit and should work. It's just an issue of space when doing it on the vehicle.

 

[IslandMon]

When I have subframes out I get them shotblasted and Hot Dip Galvanised…. Overkill but corrosion is gone for good that way.

How much does this cost you? Any issues with bushing fitment with additional thickness of galv coating?

 

[JC220]

How much does this cost you? Any issues with bushing fitment with additional thickness of galv coating?

The shotblasting runs about £30 per frame and the galv is charged by weight of the coating. They weigh the parts coming in and post treatment then tell you how much. That is roughly £15 - £20 per frame with arms.

I request min 140 micron coating so yes I use a drill mounted sanding drum to carefully clean up the bushing slots a little at a time when installing new bushings.

I will not be painting these frames either the galv Is how I will install them. It will outlast the car and any small stone chips will not corrode either due to the nature of galvanising. (The zinc still repels rust on small chips)

 

[Kyiv]

After fighting off my inner demons, today I started to take advantage of Miller 9110 and 9111 tools that @emerydc8 was kind to lend me. I decided to stick to official Mercedes manual (35-040) vs jumping above my rank and completely extracting subframe.

As expected, rear bushing came out in no time and the front one put up a resistance. I was eventually able to extract it with the help of bottle jack pushing up on the bushing's core, while using one of the 9111 pieces to brace subframe against the car body. When it seemed like the core is about to explode, I simply pried a little with a chisel and the front bushing popped out like a Champaign bottle cork in one piece



Both front and rear bushings look good. There were no service records when I bought the car in 2014. Rear suspension links, brake hoses, joint support bushing were clearly original, so unlikely subframe bushings were changed, Thereforehave ones in the picture s below have 130k mi on them. Barely different from new

 

[Kyiv]

Finished the job yesterday. The other side was done swiftly. Took maybe 10 minutes of actual labor to extract both bushings

To extract front one, I used this part of 9111 tool:


Wedged it between subframe and body like so and propped up the bushing from below with a bottle jack, until it looks like it's about to explode. Than a just a little mild prying with a screwdriver and chisel against bushing's metal lip and it comes out by itself under the pressure from below


The other sides bushings looked good as well. I can tell they are prettified, but not much physical deformation after 27.5 years/130k mi. As a bonus, I replaced rear sway bar bushings - while in there.

What a joy to look at the new Mercedes rubber pressed in




Went for brief test-drive. The car felt more composed, even-riding, and more "in one piece" in the rear. I giggled several times .
@linjam, it's worth replacing them after this many years

 

[gsxr]

I haven't replaced subframe bushings since, I think, 2012 or 2013. A good 7-8 years ago. And when Jon posted this thread in 2019, I couldn't remember much. Fast forward to 2021 and I wanted to replace these prior to getting an alignment on my wife's E420. Since it's fresh in my head, and I had some photos, here's some notes & additions to the original writeup. I also edited the first post so new readers won't have to find the new info buried two dozen posts down.

First, to make sure the subframe will drop far enough, disconnect both the rear muffler rubber donut hangers, AND also the rubber hangers at the catalytic converter. DO NOT remove the hanger for the resonator which attaches to the subframe. This should allow adequate clearance. If absolutely necessary, you might need to drop the opposite side sliiightly by loosening one or both bolts a few turns. Don't loosen too much, for obvious reasons. As seen in the photo, it's possible to get a ~4 inch gap, which is adequate to fit the tools as shown.

For the FRONT (smaller) bushings, as Jon noted, tools are almost useless for removal. I put a hydraulic bottle jack underneath and press up as @kiev described in post #26. Once under pressure, the bushing outer shell must be pried out using whatever pry bars / tools you have. Be careful not to tear off the outer edge, or rip the center of the bushing out, otherwise the job will get worse. Nothing new for removal, it's not fun, the worst of either front or rear bushing removal or installation. Once the front bushings are out, the rest of the job is a breeze.

The new info is for installation: The Miller 9111 tool threaded shaft is too thick to fit through the hole in the front bushing. HOWEVER! The Miller 9110 threaded shaft is slightly smaller diameter, and fits perfectly. See photo below. I have found that the front bushing often cannot be pressed in using the weight of the car, the car just starts to lift off the jackstands or whatever is supporting it. When this happens you must use a threaded shaft to force the bushing in place. If you have the 9111 and 9110 tools, use the 9110 (silver) shaft and one silver threaded plate along with the two fitted plates from the 9111. This will press the front bushing into place.

On a related note, I've found that some times, as shown below, the front bushing will not stay seated after pressing it down. When the tools are removed, it would pop up 1.5-2.0mm, leaving a small air gap. The 2 feeler gauges in the photo are something like 1.8mm total, IIRC. Sometimes, leaving the tools clamped overnight (to allow the sliding fluid to evaporate, if not using silicone grease) MAY let the bushing stick in place better. If not, and it pops up a bit as you see in the photos, don't lose sleep over it. The only other way to help prevent this is to make sure the bottom of the hole in the subframe is totally clean, using a small chisel to chip away corrosion. I had the same issue with another car done 8-10 years ago and it's been fine.

Up next - info on the REAR bushings.

 

[RicardoD]

I am sure this has never been done to my car and sounds like a key piece of rubber to replace. So procedure is same for E500E? @Jlaa , we need to have a rear bushing replacement party if I get up the courage to do this once my lift is free of my 964.

 

[gsxr]

I am sure this has never been done to my car and sounds like a key piece of rubber to replace. So procedure is same for E500E? @Jlaa , we need to have a rear bushing replacement party if I get up the courage to do this once my lift is free of my 964.

Ricardo, it's the same procedure for essentially any 124 chassis, although some details might differ slightly on a wagon or cabrio. Having at least the 9111 tool is a huge help. The OE subframe tools are NLA from MB, and sadly the copies are NLA from most aftermarket suppliers as well. I'm not sure if the Klann/Gedore kit is still available or not (and it isn't cheap). Demand must have tapered off and they stopped making them.

 

[gsxr]

For the REAR (larger) bushings, the Miller 9110 is fabulous. I did not realize it was capable of pulling out the stock old-style bushings. @JC220 's photo in post #17 was the clue. Sure enough, using the appropriate plate, it works GREAT. The catch is, the top plate is a very very very tight fit. It was designed for the late-style bushings and doesn't fit well into the top of the early-style. And, even with the subframe dropped as shown in the photos below, it was tricky to get it in place. Once in place with the threaded rod connected, the bushing zips right out with no prying or contributions to the swear jar. The ~3" air gap shown is pretty much the minimum required to make this work.

How did I not know this? In the past I had used pieces of the Klann tool, but the Miller design is actually better (might be more similar to the OE MB tool, now NLA, that cost a small fortune). The 9111 threaded rod fits nicely through the bushings, no issues with drilling. The bushing hole is oversize.

To install STOCK bushings [not the new-style Sportline bushings], I used the weight of the car, with a bottle jack to press them in. These go in much easier than the front/small mounts. I placed a bar across the top, against the chassis post. I used a bottom plate from the Klann but the 9111 piece will work in a pinch. [To install the new-style Sportline bushings, use the complete Miller 9111 tool to pull them in - see photo in post 40 below.]

Note in the photos below that the old bushing was partly collapsed (155kmi), but not entirely collapsed. There is a sizeable air gap at the top nubs to the frame, where there should be almost no gap. And the bottom section was close to the round metal plate, but not quite touching... if totally collapsed, the mount will "sit" on the metal plate. Compare to the new mounts which have no air gap on top and a large air gap on the bottom.


Final tips:

The front bushings are sold as a kit, however it is cheaper to buy the kit contents separately (~$90 for the kit, ~$55 separately, Naperville pricing). The rear bushings are sold separately, with a hardware kit. Again, it's cheaper to buy the hardware separately (~$50 kit, ~$30 separately, Naperville).

DON'T FORGET TO USE A TAP TO CLEAN THE CHASSIS THREADS, BEFORE INSTALLING THE NEW FRONT MOUNT! You can still access the threads on the rear mounts with the new mount installed, but you can't on the fronts. M12 x 1.5, I think. I'll add this to the first post edits.

 

[Jlaa]

I am sure this has never been done to my car and sounds like a key piece of rubber to replace. So procedure is same for E500E? @Jlaa , we need to have a rear bushing replacement party if I get up the courage to do this once my lift is free of my 964.

@RicardoD YES YES YES. If we do your car first (I think yours has a bit more miles on it?) I anticipate it would take us a whole day.... given that it is our first time around. This pig of a job feels like one of those jobs where its easy to get scared and chicken out if one were doing it by themselves, all alone .... but probably much MUCH MUCH easier with psychological and moral support from another person helping both the brain and well as supplying some muscles.



Do you have the fancy MB bushing tools?
Or maybe the Klann tools
Or maybe you have the Miller 9110 and Miller 9111 tools?

If you don't have them, I have the 9110 and 9111. We can use them.

Also make sure you order the right FORWARD bushings:






Following are the SHORT TAB MB BRANDED FORWARD BUSHING 124-351-19-42 which comes in kit 124-350-04-41. Don't use these bushings. (all documented on @gsxr's website) HOWEVER, DO use the bolts and stop plates that come with the kit.









Instead, use the TALL TAB BUSHING BOGE 2-33-001003 which is the same as MB 124-351-15-42 but you must buy FEBI 10154 to get this reboxed BOGE BUSHING. Don't use the stop plates and bolts that come with the Febis (BOGEs). Use the stop plates and bolts that came from MB.

 

[emerydc8]

Excellent write-up, Dave! It never dawned on me at the time to remove the rubber donuts of the exhaust to allow the subframe to drop lower. That would have made the job easier. I agree with your assessment -- the hardest part is removing the small front bushings and that's what will take up most of the time (and cause the most skinned knuckles, swearing, etc.). The rest isn't that bad. Luckily, my bushings didn't start to creep back out like your first job back in 2012/2013.

 

[gsxr]

Just FYI: The Febi 10154 may, possibly, be changing contents to a non-OEM (non-Boge) bushing. I'm not certain though. If you buy the Febi kit, verify the bushings are Boge as shown in in Jlaa's post #31 above. Toss the Febi stop plates (washers), they are junk. I wouldn't use the Febi bolts either but that's optional. You can buy the bolts & stop plates separately from MB. The front MB bolts are yellow plated and have microencapsulated threadlock; rears are gray coated with threadlock.

Pricing below is MSRP. Naperville will be ~26% less. Qty 2 of everything is required:

171-352-00-46 = Front stop plate / large rubber-coated washer, $7.50/ea
914125-012238 = Front bolts, $8/ea

201-352-12-46 = Rear stop plate, $14/ea
201-990-03-04 = Rear bolts, $5.50/ea

 

[gsxr]

Photos in post #30 have been updated / annotated.

 

[dreaming.haze]

Going to be approaching this job in the next coming days and I was curious on two side tool additions.

For a bottle jack, what would be the recommended size / ton rating for this job?
And the second tool addition - Tap and Die set - Does anyone have recommendations for specific brands they've had good luck with? Feels like a long term purchase so I want to make sure I get a solid set.

 

[gsxr]

Bottle jack rating shouldn't be critical for this application, you want one Goldilocks size. Not too big, not too small. Maybe something in the 4-12 ton range? I'd prefer longer stroke over higher rating.

Tap & die... get whatever appears to be good quality AND has a wide range of metric sizes, at least to M12. I got an Irwin-Hansen set years ago but it wasn't cheap, but did have lifetime warranty, and I have yet to break any of those taps or dies. There's a Gearwench kit with lifetime warranty for maybe half the cost, that sure looks tempting. Reviews showing shredded taps on the Neiko scared me away pretty fast.

Amazon.com : metric tap and die set

 

[dreaming.haze]

Agreed on the notion that longer stroke is more important than a 20 ton rating. Not working with that kind of weight. I'll see what northern tool has for sale.

As much as Gear Wrench has some solid equipment here and there, I'm likely going to go with an Irwin set. More expensive, but feels like better reviews + longer lasting. Going to check Lowes selection out here later and see what sets they have.

 

[dionphaneuf]

I'd pay up on the tap and die set. I bought a crappy one thinking it'd be enough for my projects but the quality was so poor as to be unusable. 95% of the tap I'm using said set to fix a thread on a damaged component to save me something like pulling the head, and if the set is crappy and fucks it up I'm in way worse shape than if I bailed. The tolerance of the tools and the quality of the material will scale directly w the cost and is likely what drives the end result.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08N4BWJF1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[dreaming.haze]

After reading this thread multiple times it felt like the front bushings were the ones that would give me the most grief. I had bought a set of rear sportline reproduction bushings from Germany last year and using those in the installation process. So far, I've not been able to get these bushings even close to sitting proper. Any ideas beyond leaving things to sit / replace with normal subframe bushings vs. Sportline reproductions?

 

[gsxr]

Use the complete Miller tool to pull the bushing in, rather than using the bottle jack. See if that helps. I assume the recess in the subframe was clean (it normally is for the rears).

Photo courtesy of W124performance/subframe/bushings:

 

[Kyiv]

After reading this thread multiple times it felt like the front bushings were the ones that would give me the most grief. I had bought a set of sportline reproduction bushings from Germany last year and using those in the installation process. So far, I've not been able to get these bushings even close to sitting proper. Any ideas beyond leaving things to sit / replace with normal subframe bushings vs. Sportline reproductions?

What exactly is your problem? Is there not enough force to sink front subframe bushings into their nests? I had to use your technique of bottle jack and a a prop between to of the nest and the car's structural, so that a bottle jack could sink the bushing all the way...

 

[dreaming.haze]

@gsxr , I tried to wedge in that top piece and didn't have enough room at current droop. Likely need to see what is binding up at current to make more space. The subframe cup itself was clean and the bushing + subframe have lubrication.

@Kyiv - current issue is the rear subframe bushing not wanting to fully seat into the subframe. Even with the weight of the car going against the bottle jack - it is stuck halfway up.

I am going away for the 4th of July weekend, but I'll look into things more this Monday / Tuesday and report back.

 

[gsxr]

Yes, make sure you can lower the subframe enough. Read the notes in earlier posts about what can hang up, and what to watch for (hoses/wires). Per the photo, it is possible with enough lowering, but don't loosen all 4 bolts too much!

And yes, the problem with the bottle jack is that eventually the car runs out of weight. That's when you must use the tool with threaded shaft to force the bushing into place.

 

[JC220]

@gsxr , I tried to wedge in that top piece and didn't have enough room at current droop. Likely need to see what is binding up at current to make more space. The subframe cup itself was clean and the bushing + subframe have lubrication.

@Kyiv - current issue is the rear subframe bushing not wanting to fully seat into the subframe. Even with the weight of the car going against the bottle jack - it is stuck halfway up.

I am going away for the 4th of July weekend, but I'll look into things more this Monday / Tuesday and report back.

Get silicone spray and douse rhe bushing and subframe with it and try pressing again

 

[TerryA]

@dreaming.haze, +1 on the silicon spray or even vasoline. If you haven’t done it already I would be sure to clean out and sand smooth the inside of the bushing receiver cup and then lube both parts up. Be careful what lube you use. Vasoline should not hurt rubber.

I’m just thinking out loud here but;

1) If you can get the wedge above the cup, can’t you get a large “C” clamp in there and just clamp it down? Maybe it would work if you can turn the clamp.

2) Also, I’ve never looked at the bushing is there a hole in the middle that a bolt can fit through? If so I would use a large bolt, nut and washers. If no hole in the receiver cup I would drill one to allow the bolt to go thru. Put the nut on top and wrench it up and in. I’ve used this method on bushings before.

3) Try the bottle jack again with the clean lubed up parts.

4) If no success get the miller tool that gsxr said you need.

Maybe I’ll get shot down on these ideas but take another look.

Good Luck

 

[JC220]

I am just done installing all 4x w140 sunframe bushes with subframe removed from the car.

They are really big bushes and hard to press without the correct tools. Which I did not have so had to improvise with whatever I had!

One thing I did discover is what was causing some of them to get really stuck hard and having to start again was small imperfections in the rubber castings.

It made a huge difference when I used a sanding wheel on grinder and just gently buffed the casting marks off and smoothed some corners. No material removal per say just cleaning it up. They then would press home without binding up hard on the way.

 

[Seangbadee]

@RicardoD YES YES YES. If we do your car first (I think yours has a bit more miles on it?) I anticipate it would take us a whole day.... given that it is our first time around. This pig of a job feels like one of those jobs where its easy to get scared and chicken out if one were doing it by themselves, all alone .... but probably much MUCH MUCH easier with psychological and moral support from another person helping both the brain and well as supplying some muscles.



Do you have the fancy MB bushing tools?
Or maybe the Klann tools
Or maybe you have the Miller 9110 and Miller 9111 tools?

If you don't have them, I have the 9110 and 9111. We can use them.

Also make sure you order the right FORWARD bushings:

View attachment 137554

View attachment 137553


Following are the SHORT TAB MB BRANDED FORWARD BUSHING 124-351-19-42 which comes in kit 124-350-04-41. Don't use these bushings. (all documented on @gsxr's website) HOWEVER, DO use the bolts and stop plates that come with the kit.

View attachment 137556

View attachment 137557

View attachment 137558

View attachment 137559

Instead, use the TALL TAB BUSHING BOGE 2-33-001003 which is the same as MB 124-351-15-42 but you must buy FEBI 10154 to get this reboxed BOGE BUSHING. Don't use the stop plates and bolts that come with the Febis (BOGEs). Use the stop plates and bolts that came from MB.

View attachment 137560

View attachment 137561

View attachment 137562


View attachment 137563

Why do you advice against the repair kit?

 

[dreaming.haze]

Was finally able to find some time yesterday evening to finish off this job. Even with the proper items dropped down to allow for proper "droop" of the subframe, I wasn't able to get the silver top plate in for the rear bushings. With the help of a friend, we went for a drop off the subframe on both sides. This gave us enough room for the silver top plate and both sides in the rear went smoothly post this.

Of course, I thought it would be smooth sailing for the front bushing again, but the core of the bushing decided to separate itself. Ran out of MAP gas trying to heat this up, so a run to Lowes to grab another couple of bottles was in order. With the core being separated, I used a 27mm socket on the end of the bottle jack to push through the hole in the bottom of the subframe and barely grab the bushing on it's way up. Like others, I used the small black piece to be a leverage item once more. After getting everything stressed up, I heated things up real hot and the bushing slid out on it's own without any additional prying. On install, the bottle jack + weight of the car + some prying got the bushings persuaded into place.

For the job itself, I think the Miller units are rather useful for the Rear bushings if you have enough room to fully utilize them. For the front bushings, only a couple of small pieces are actually used. MAP gas is always useful. Even though a bottle jack is more annoying to utilize, for the various pressure application needs - I think it is worthwhile for this job. To have more space for this job, I removed the forward facing suspension arm and let things hang.

Here are the condition of the bushings I took out:

It looks like the pedestrian rear bushings has been installed previously at some point in the cars life.

 

[gsxr]

Note the original Sportline bushings appear the same as pedestrians, but have stiffer rubber (?) and some other minor differences when compared side by side. The ones you installed are a superceded design that is very different. But the ones you removed may have been originals, only way to confirm would be reading the part number off the rubber.

Glad you got all 4 replaced! Fun stuff, eh?

 

[JC220]

I recently replaced w140 subframe bushings - those things are huge and very hard to press. I heated up and burned out the old ones that was easy. But pressing the new ones in was a very tough 4 or 5 hours making up setups to get them pressed home