OWNER Skikar

[500AMM]

FYI - in case you have ticking issues in the engine it's a 99,99% chance for a failing oil tube between the hydraulic valve lifters. If you're planning a future upgrade I have a spare set of the early style aluminium oil tubes with new O-rings. Just ping me and I'm sure we agree on an extreme sales price...

 

[Skikar]

I don't have the PN, but do you need a complete IR transmitter unit w/key?
If so it has to be ordered per VIN at the dealer and it is stupidly expensive here in Morepay. You could try to place an order abroad, but for security reasons the dealers normally don't provide keys for cars registered outside their country. You have to document your ownership in any case, and you may need assistence from someone in that country to prove your ID & ownership, and physically place the order and receival of the key as well.

In case the IR key is broken or weared out, you can look at the breakers for a W210 unit. IIRC the early 210 cars use the same key housing, but the electronics/internals may be different, I don't know. I've seen repairs of the electronics on a forum somewhere, but I don't have any links.


View attachment 94714View attachment 94715

Thanks for the attachments of the system

Thank you for your feedback
i need new key case see pictures attached of my key
Ir key is working fine after soldering print plate and synchronization

have checked on ebay ,little unsure of the quality of these

has sent a request to various breakers in Norway

 

[Skikar]

FYI - in case you have ticking issues in the engine it's a 99,99% chance for a failing oil tube between the hydraulic valve lifters. If you're planning a future upgrade I have a spare set of the early style aluminium oil tubes with new O-rings. Just ping me and I'm sure we agree on an extreme sales price...

Hi
I check if my engine has plastic or aluminum tubes
Thanks

 

[gsxr]

Thank you for your feedback
i need new key case see pictures attached of my key

A bit of superglue would fix that case. No need to replace it (yet)...

 

[Skikar]

Today I changed all water temperature sensors.
Change gasket for maf the old one was hard

I cleaned the maf with carburetor cleaner

I found vacuum leak behind the Maf
I have checked every vacuum lines and changed hoses can't find any more leaks

The engine runs much better now.
But still the engine shake a little bit

Can someone can tell what be wrong?

I will make a video and posted later

 

[gsxr]

The engine runs much better now.
But still the engine shake a little bit

Can someone can tell what be wrong?

see post #24 earlier in this thread...

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/skikar.14267/post-198811

 

[Skikar]

Since I bought this car the engine does not have enough power as it should.
has replaced various vacuum hoses in the engine compartment and gearbox.
Replaced all spark plugs (correct specification)
ignition cables, rotor,
ignition cap, insulator and all temp sensors
fuel pressure regulator

Still notice that engine has fault ignition / misfiring
i hear noises from gasoline pump
will order new ones from bosch

The car is weak under acceleration from 100Km / see attached video

engine speed does not go up to 6,000 rpm


I finally ordered code reader from www.mercedescodereader.com/
It will be deliverd next week

unable to upload video file 15 mb get error code is too large

 

[gerryvz]

Symptoms sound to me like you may have a plugged pair of catalytic converters, which are restricting exhaust airflow. The inability to rev up to redline is somewhat of a giveaway on this.

Do a search on the forum for "plugged cat" and see what you come up with. It has happened to several people over the years.

M119 low on power - suggestions? | M119 Engine

Hello all My 500E is quite low on power and I am beginning to think there is something wrong with the engine. I've not had the codes read yet but the PO is a friend of mine (owned it for 8 years) and he said it was not producing near enough power compared to when he owned it. He now owns an...

www.500eboard.co

E500 won't pull past 4000rpm | Troubleshooting and Diagnostics

My 1994 E500 has recently stopped pulling properly between 4000rpm and redline No misfire or stuttering, it just goes flat from 4000rpm; worse in the higher gears. I appear to be getting full throttle and car has recent (correct) spark plugs gapped at 1mm, air filters,fuel filter, rotor arms...

www.500eboard.co

SOLVED: Uneven idle, hesitating when accelerating, power is down (Faulty CKP) | Troubleshooting and Diagnostics

ADMIN EDIT: Final solution, after 1 full year of troubleshooting and replacing parts, was a defective crank sensor. The faulty CKP (crank sensor at rear of engine) was the root cause of the lambda (on/off ratio) malfunction and incorrect mixture. See post #76-#81 (link) for details. The title...

www.500eboard.co

Hanging up/Stumbling at 4000 RPM | M119 Engine

I have been troubleshooting this problem for the past week with no luck. Maybe someone else can throw in some suggestions since I'm running out of ideas. At 45 mph, I can put the car in neutral and rev the engine all the way to redline without any apparent hesitation or stumble. But if I hold...

www.500eboard.co

M119 chokes at 4250 rpm..? - MAS..replaced..EZL replaced.. | M119 Engine

Re: M119 chokes at 4250 rpm..? - MAS..replaced..EZL replaced The valve cover gaskets R&R is quite straight forward. Shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours. The hex bolts towards the firewall are a pain in the arse to get out if you don't have a swivel adapter to remove them. On the...

www.500eboard.co

 

[gsxr]

If the fuel pumps are old, it is a good idea to replace them. Also replace the high pressure fuel hose exiting the filter, if you have not yet done that (safety item).

What is the time in seconds from 0-100kph? Upload videos to YouTube and post a link here.

Does the RPM get to 6000 in any gear, or does it seem to hit a "limiter" at a certain RPM? You might have plugged catalysts as Gerry mentioned, as a test you can remove the exhaust crossover pipe from the left manifold to the passenger side pipe, and see if the problem is cured.

The code reader will be helpful, but will not tell you if the exhaust is plugged. Remember to toss whatever code sheets may come with the reader and only use the PDF from this website, or my website. [Edit: The website selling those code readers "borrowed" the M119 code document which I created in 2008. I emailed them about this...]

 

[Skikar]

Share video fra om my google drive

ttps://drive.google.com/open?id=1SeVr_IgE_tJbBilaRhPb6XJuJvEKd8pZ

VID_20200309_165138.mp4

drive.google.com

 

[Skikar]

VID_20200309_165224.mp4

drive.google.com

 

[Skikar]

Thank you very much for the feedback

I'll have a look next week
the car has only summer tires and the weather is cold possible there is snow coming

 

[Skikar]

On Sunday I filled up the fuel tank on my E500 so I reset the trip counter and I find that it no longer works.
have read on the forum here that gears must be changed

want to know where i can buy this

 

[gsxr]

On Sunday I filled up the fuel tank on my E500 so I reset the trip counter and I find that it no longer works.
have read on the forum here that gears must be changed

want to know where i can buy this

There's a thread on replacing the odometer gears, search for that... will have the info you need. Just be careful to buy the proper gears for European odometers (kph) which I believe are different than USA/UK (mph).

 

[gsxr]

Share video fra om my google drive

That kind of power loss could indeed be from a clogged exhaust. You'll need to do more testing.

It appeared that you lifted off the throttle while RPM's were still increasing. What happens if you give it full throttle (engaging the kickdown switch) from a stop, and leave the pedal floored? Will the RPM's eventually reach 6000 in first gear?

 

[Skikar]

That kind of power loss could indeed be from a clogged exhaust. You'll need to do more testing.

It appeared that you lifted off the throttle while RPM's were still increasing. What happens if you give it full throttle (engaging the kickdown switch) from a stop, and leave the pedal floored? Will the RPM's eventually reach 6000 in first gear?

yes I took off the foot of the accelerator due to traffic on the way home from work.

I feel that kickdown is not working properly im not sure
'i have checked ale the fusees and clean them

i have tried to put the gear lever in B and full throttle it does not gear up and runs all the way up to 6000 rpm

I put the gear lever in B and drove slowly to 3000 rpm the car was in the first gear and took the gear lever out of B to 2 and the gearbox changed gears

 

[Skikar]

There's a thread on replacing the odometer gears, search for that... will have the info you need. Just be careful to buy the proper gears for European odometers (kph) which I believe are different than USA/UK (mph).

Which fits for Euro car km / h

Odometer Gears - Mercedes-Benz - E class (124) 92-1995 Elec.

Mercedes-Benz - E class (124) 92-1995 Elec.

www.odometergears.com

Mercedes E500 W124 Odometer Gears Euro for sale | eBay

Get the best deals for Mercedes E500 W124 Odometer Gears Euro at eBay.com. We have a great online selection at the lowest prices with Fast & Free shipping on many items!

www.ebay.com

 

[Skikar]

small update
checked all vacuum hoses in engine compartment can not find fault

checked kickdown switch by throttle pedal found loose lid see pictures
put it in place
I've read that there are two switches at the pedal one kickdown and one more what's the last one for ??


The car is alive its pull

 

[Skikar]

Today's job at the workshop
changed
1.Upper strut bearing both sides
2.Lower support arms on both sides in front
3.Rear gearbox [transmission] mount the old was broken
4.Changed Lambda probe [Oxygen sensor]
5.Replaced fuel filter and fuel pump fuel filter full of orange stuff/petrol

 

[e500.org]

small update
checked all vacuum hoses in engine compartment can not find fault

checked kickdown switch by throttle pedal found loose lid see pictures
put it in place
I've read that there are two switches at the pedal one kickdown and one more what's the last one for ??


The car is alive its pull

View attachment 94898

View attachment 94899

Very good Kashif, so do you mean the "low power" issue is sorted and the car performs as it should?

 

[e500.org]

Today's job at the workshop
changed
1.Upper strut bearing both sides
2.Lower support arms on both sides in front
3.Rear gearbox [transmission] mount the old was broken
4.Changed Lambda probe [Oxygen sensor]
5.Replaced fuel filter and fuel pump fuel filter full of orange stuff/petrol

View attachment 94934View attachment 94935View attachment 94936View attachment 94937View attachment 94938View attachment 94939View attachment 94940View attachment 94941View attachment 94942View attachment 94943View attachment 94944View attachment 94945View attachment 94946View attachment 94947View attachment 94948View attachment 94949View attachment 94950View attachment 94951

Great work, many familiar parts here. I have also decided to renew my fuel pumps (I will also change the hoses) and gearbox mount. Where did you source the lower control arms? My ball joints perform well however the dust boot has come away. I am reluctant to replace at this point however with the dust boot perished this will allow the ingress of dirt and destroy the ball joint. OEM arms for the E500 are $$$ however so putting off this job for now.

 

[gsxr]

Great work, many familiar parts here. I have also decided to renew my fuel pumps (I will also change the hoses) and gearbox mount. Where did you source the lower control arms? My ball joints perform well however the dust boot has come away. I am reluctant to replace at this point however with the dust boot perished this will allow the ingress of dirt and destroy the ball joint. OEM arms for the E500 are $$$ however so putting off this job for now.

The OEM arms are much less expensive in USA than in Europe. I don't know why, but you might save a bundle buying in USA and having them shipped overseas. If there is zero play in the ball joint, AND you are confident that little if any dirt/water has entered the joint, you can probably just install a new boot on the old joint. This is an option if you catch the boot with a small hole or tear, before the boot has completely disintegrated.

None of the aftermarket LCA's have a good reputation for ball joint longevity.

 

[e500.org]

The OEM arms are much less expensive in USA than in Europe. I don't know why, but you might save a bundle buying in USA and having them shipped overseas. If there is zero play in the ball joint, AND you are confident that little if any dirt/water has entered the joint, you can probably just install a new boot on the old joint. This is an option if you catch the boot with a small hole or tear, before the boot has completely disintegrated.

None of the aftermarket LCA's have a good reputation for ball joint longevity.

Installing a new boot is exactly what my mechanic recommended, cheers Dave.

 

[Skikar]

Great work, many familiar parts here. I have also decided to renew my fuel pumps (I will also change the hoses) and gearbox mount. Where did you source the lower control arms? My ball joints perform well however the dust boot has come away. I am reluctant to replace at this point however with the dust boot perished this will allow the ingress of dirt and destroy the ball joint. OEM arms for the E500 are $$$ however so putting off this job for now.

I bought lower carrier arms from Denmark / Bosch Carservice I can order for you and send this to you

PRODUCTS | Triscan

triscan.dk

 

[Skikar]

Very good Kashif, so do you mean the "low power" issue is sorted and the car performs as it should?

Hi Bilal
The car has become much better to drive and it pulls but not 100%

 

[Skikar]

Finally i have gotten my code reader today from USA. I bought it from mercedescodereader.com
I have checked fault codes on every available pin
I found:
pin 4 code 1
pin 6 code 1
pin 7 code 1
pin 8 code 9 + 10 + 11+ 12 + 13 + 17 deleted. 11 , 12 and 17 comes back
pin 13 noe blink
pin 14 code lights up constantly
pin 16 code 1
pin 17 code 1
pin 23 code 15
pin 30 code 3 + 4 + 5 +6 and pin 6 and 3 comes back after deleted
pin 31 code 10 . and it comes back after deleted

Can somebody decode the codes. I have cleared most of them, but some of them comes back .

I have taken pictures of my Can/ECU is the right ECU for my car



I have checked the distance between the engine and the lower cross member as shown in the picture measured to about 23 mm Looks like both engine mounts are replaced with original ones

Have also checked if all the ignition cables are properly placed shown in the picture
Battery Cables/terminals cleaned battery terminals and tightened 10 mm cable going to can modules.

Have removed the battery pole and reset all the control units for 15min after that, then idle got better in the park and in the drive and motor pulled much better than before but not 100%

I drove home after work so the car behaved very well but then suddenly it began to chase at idle again

Have checked the production date on the throttle body it is from 1994
I think I have to send to the workshop for inspection and repairs

 

[gerryvz]

Use this @gsxr doc to decode your system.

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/diagnostics/DTC_List_W124_M119.pdf

 

[Skikar]

have taken pictures of my Can/ECU is the right ECU for my car

can somone confirm is the correct ecu for this car
Thanks

 

[gsxr]

Yes, those modules are correct. Of course someone could have changed the EPROM to a "wrong" chip but that is highly unlikely.

 

[Skikar]

Thanks
I hade pull codes from the ecu
Pin base module code 9.11.12.17
It's voltage supply faulty i have checked the fuses all 4 is ok and I checked voltage on the fuse 14.2v at idel

It's the ecu faulty??

Code 17 blower motor??

 

[gsxr]

Are you using the document Gerry linked back in post #77 above? This will tell you what they mean. Screenshot below.

Assuming this is for the Basic Module (BM/GM), pin #8:

Code 9 = looks like power supply issues, possibly bad BM/GM, loose wire at battery, or other wiring issue
Code 11 = See above. Also check blade fuses in the top of the BM/GM.
Code 12 = See above. Also check blade fuses in the top of the BM/GM.
Code 17 = As it says, the blower may be shorted. This won't cause engine operation issues unless the module box overheats, which is unlikely.

 

[Skikar]

Thanks Dave
I have checked battery terminal is not lose and I cleaned it up
I have checked the all the fuses all on module
And I have 12v on bought side of fuses

Do you have wiring diagram for modules in can box

Can this cause low voltage at the air mass sensor?? I get 7 volt?

i have send you personal email with screen shots of live data

 

[gsxr]

Don't forget the positive battery terminal has TWO nuts, the smaller one is a direct feed to the CAN modules.

Can you swap out the GM module for a different one? That would be the first thing I would try.

I'm not sure what normal voltage is at the MAF, it may not be +12v.

Wiring diagrams are buried in the factory manual CD-ROM as PDF files, but they are not easy to decipher (or find in the first place).

 

[Skikar]

I will check thanks for replying

 

[Kyiv]

i have send you personal email with screen shots of live data

Mate, post them here, so we could see any replies from Dave. This could be educational and may help someone in the future

 

[Skikar]

Will do tomorrow

 

[Skikar]

Hi
Can I use these ecu in my car
engine ecu 0155453632 does the engine get more Hk 326HK 480NM ??

what can i pay for something like that package price


With this

 

[gsxr]

The modules (and EZL) in that photo are all correct spares for your car. The 015- ECU does not have WOT enrichment, if that is what you are asking.

What is the asking price for the set of modules?

 

[gerryvz]

The reference for all computer modules is here:

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/wiki/?title=500E-and-E500-CAN-Computer-Part-Number-Reference

 

[Skikar]

Sorry for my English
My car is 1994 and the engine power is 320 hk
Can I used this ecu in pictures and get 6 more Hk??

What is WOT enrichment
I don't know about price yet

 

[gsxr]

My car is 1994 and the engine power is 320 hk Can I used this ecu in pictures and get 6 more Hk??

No. Your LH module with 016- part number, and the 015- module for sale in the photos, will both produce the same power.

What is WOT enrichment

Early LH modules go into "open loop" model at full throttle (WOT), which gives a power gain. The USA SAE power ratings were 322hp in 1992, and 315hp in 1993-up, giving the impression there is a 7hp (SAE) difference. However, there were MANY mechanical changes between 1992 and 1993 (USA model years) also partly responsible for the power change, besides the loss of WOT enrichment as of 1993 (again USA). Bottom line, your 1994 vehicle would need a different (older) LH module to get the power gain, which would be more than 7hp / 6hk.

Mechanical changes:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/M119/M119_1993_updates.pdf

Dyno graphs of late engine with early LH module showing 12hp (SAE) gain at the crank, +10hp at the wheels:
https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/fs-1992-euro-lh-module-w-wot-enrichment.540/

 

[Skikar]

Thanks for replying and helping me out

 

[Skikar]

I get the price for all the parts shown in all pictures 1400 dollars

What do you think?

 

[gsxr]

I get the price for all the parts shown in all pictures 1400 dollars

What do you think?

Ouch. That is expensive, IMO. The only rare item in the photo is the E-GAS module, and I don't know what fair market value is because that part number is non-USA. The other stuff can be found for less, search the part numbers on eBay. The BM/GM in particular is very inexpensive.

If the price includes the fuel injectors and ignition coils, that's a small help, but I'd want new coils if you are going to replace them... and the injectors don't often fail.

 

[Skikar]

I agree Dave it's too expensive
Tomorrow I will pull out the modules and check out the wires and voltage

 

[Skikar]

I found this Ecu in usa
Can I used this ecu in my car Euro 1994 model with catalysts system
And get more Hk and gain?

 

[nocfn]

In the usa, yes that would be a small boost to power in a 93-94, but I am sure GSXR will know that for sure if there was a EU change. Not sure it is noticeable, for normal driving for me anyway but I run that model year unit in my 5/1994.

 

[gerryvz]

I found this Ecu in usa
Can I used this ecu in my car Euro 1994 model with catalysts system
And get more Hk and gain?

Again, this reference should tell you what you need to know for the ECUs:

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/wiki/?title=500E-and-E500-CAN-Computer-Part-Number-Reference

That is an early ECU that is appropriate for the 500E/E500, and can be used with the later cars. It has the "WOT" enhancement for the extra power, when used with a later car. As has been said, there is around 10-12 extra HP, but this is only observed/avaialble at Wide-Open-Throttle (hence the WOT), and even then is not really noticeable. You will see zero difference in any day to day driving.

 

[gsxr]

That is an early ECU that is appropriate for the 500E/E500, and can be used with the later cars. It has the "WOT" enhancement for the extra power, when used with a later car. As has been said, there is around 10-12 extra HP, but this is only observed/avaialble at Wide-Open-Throttle (hence the WOT), and even then is not really noticeable. You will see zero difference in any day to day driving.

Ditto what Gerry said: ^^^

Note that if the seller hasn't specifically tested for the clicking fuel pump relay, you'd need to do that, and if it clicks the capacitors need replacement.

 

[Skikar]

Today, several parts came from Germany
Replaced vacuum box (black) automatic transmission. The old one didn't hold on to the vacuum.
After changing the vacuum box it slips into gear

How to adjust this ??




Also replace the Neutral Safety Switch (NSS) and adjusted it correctly in Neutral and 4mm pin



Also change the kick down switch inside the car and check 12v down on the solenoid found 12v
but I cant feel the kick down solenoid clicks
Any solution to this ??