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OWNER Skikar

More progress in details
The restoration of the wood is finished
Some pictures from the company ho restore them
I hope i will get them next week
 

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Lately I had a strange noise from right wheel
Change the wheel bearing today, I hope it will be good.

Also change lower oil pan with new oil level sensor og oil pickup

Change new vacuum modulator light green
The gear shifts is very good and smooth.
 

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I have changed the catalysts with new and center muffler delete
And shorten the exhaust tip 4cm
It's sound great 👍and it's pulls to Rev limiter now
 

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I want to change the subframe bushings but the parts are NLA from Mercedes
The front bushings in the subframe are bad.
Can i use part from other dealer ? or other Mercedes models
Any solution

Nr 47 A1293511442 NLA
Nr 29 A1243509708 NLA
Nr 38 available
Nr 8 available
 

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My car is almost finished
The car have full respray inside and outside
New front windscreen and rear
Refurbished all the wood
Every parts is been cleaned, polished or replaced

I have bought the leather insert from ulrich in Germany, the seats and the steering wheel will be sent to interior shop.
The evo wheels will be sent to wheel shop for dimond cut.
I will order new floor mats for the limited

Here is the result!
 

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I need help with kickdown, do not know where to look for errors anymore

The car pulls to / gears up at about 5500-5600 rpm
I do not feel that it gears down to 2 gears when i floor the pedal
the car does not pull to 6000 rpm

When the gearlever is not in D Its pulls to rev limiter

1-Bowden cable is adjusted and removed slack in cable
(someone has right way to adjust the cable for car with ASR)
2-New oil and filter in gearbox and checked level after driving the car warm. Its at max.
3-checked error codes in engine none.
checked error codes in all systems none
4-Change to new 400 cell catalyst both sides.
5-Kick down switch is new, has check 12v at switch and down to the solonid 12v. is present
6-performed test gear lever in B car does not gear up to 2 gears it holds 1 gear
7-Change to new E60 modulator
the car shifts nicely up and down.
8-Change new NSS switch and adjusted it correctly
9-All the vacuum lines is checked or replaced
10-new shifter bushes
I have take some screen shots from the ECU
 

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Just to clarify - the transmission is upshifting early, at 5500-5600rpm, correct? Are all full-throttle upshifts (1-2, 2-3, and 3-4) at ~5600rpm instead of 6000?

And in position B, it will pull to 6000+ in 1st gear until you move the shifter out of B?

Do you have a spare BM/GM module to test with?
 
Just to clarify - the transmission is upshifting early, at 5500-5600rpm, correct? Are all full-throttle upshifts (1-2, 2-3, and 3-4) at ~5600rpm instead of 6000?
Yes all at about 5600 rpm

And in position B, it will pull to 6000+ in 1st gear until you move the shifter out of B?
Yes

Do you have a spare BM/GM module to test with?
Now I don't have
 
BTW, your LH adaptation values are abnormally low at <0.88 for upper and lower. That has nothing to do with the transmission shifting, just a bit strange. Make sure the vacuum hose is connected to the fuel pressure regulator, and that rail pressure is normal. You can reset adaptation and see if it again drops to <0.88 or not.
 
I will buy used BM module
BM module it's only for E500 1994 w124

I don't know about the valvebody i only change oil and filter
But when I bought the car I have same problem with the kickdown but after changing the catalysts last month its much better now its pull to round 5500 rpm
 
I'm not confident the BM/GM is at fault, but if you can source one at low cost, it's worth a try. The same parts fits all years E500E and 400E/E420.

If the transmission has never upshifted at 6000rpm at full throttle since purchase, you may also want to check the valve body adjustment as shown in that PDF. And, see if there are part numbers on the valvebody to verify it's correct for the transmission...

:scratchchin:
 
BTW, your LH adaptation values are abnormally low at <0.88 for upper and lower. That has nothing to do with the transmission shifting, just a bit strange. Make sure the vacuum hose is connected to the fuel pressure regulator, and that rail pressure is normal. You can reset adaptation and see if it again drops to <0.88 or not.
Ok I will check and reset last time I did the reset the value was i think around 11
For upper and lower
LH adaptation i drive the car at least 30 min for the lower part adaptation and idle to be correctly

But I have changed fuel pressure regulator from bosch and new fuel filter and fuel pumps from bosch
 
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Hi,
I have not compared all details, but my engine had this behaviour with a „new“ old alternative EZL. After switching to another EZL, that was gone.
 
Ok I will check and reset last time I did the reset the value was i think around 11
For upper and lower
LH adaptation i drive the at least 30 min for lower part adaptation and idle

But I have changed fuel pressure regulator from bosch and new fuel filter and fuel pumps from bosch
Hi, I would change the EZL and other modules to see if any difference (one by one). They are not expensive and you can resell them on this forum if they do not solve the problem. Easiest way to try and locate the issue.
 
Hi,
I have not compared all details, but my engine had this behaviour with a „new“ old alternative EZL. After switching to another EZL, that was gone.
Nic, do you mean the different EZL affected full-throttle upshifts? What were the part numbers for the original vs current EZL?

:apl:
 
Nic, do you mean the different EZL affected full-throttle upshifts? What were the part numbers for the original vs current EZL?

:apl:
I will look the numbers up this evening. And no, it did not upshift on full load but ran into some kind of a limiter at around 5.500 rpm - before it would upshift. lifting the pedal at this point would also be followed by an upshift. I know that this does not correspond exactly to the problem description, but I cannot imagine the tranny to upshift just 800 rpm early under full load. It does upshift at 6.300 on kick down normally, right?
 
I will look the numbers up this evening. And no, it did not upshift on full load but ran into some kind of a limiter at around 5.500 rpm - before it would upshift. lifting the pedal at this point would also be followed by an upshift. I know that this does not correspond exactly to the problem description, but I cannot imagine the tranny to upshift just 800 rpm early under full load. It does upshift at 6.300 on kick down normally, right?
Interesting... especially since your current engine should be an open-deck block. I don't understand why the 012- EZL would cause a rev limit, but at least the replacement unit fixed the problem.

Normal upshift is 6000rpm at WOT when everything is working normally. With kickdown solenoid unplugged, 1-2 WOT upshift is about 4500-5000 but 2-3 and 3-4 will still be around 6000rpm (easy test, try it and see how it works). 6300rpm is the stock engine RPM limit, but the transmission is programmed to upshift before the rev limiter.


Skikar, to clarify, is your car upshifting normally, just at earlier RPM (5600)? It doesn't hit a rev limiter and "hang" in gear where you have to lift off the gas to make it upshift?

:blink:
 
Skikar, to clarify, is your car upshifting normally, just at earlier RPM (5600)? It doesn't hit a rev limiter and "hang" in gear where you have to lift off the gas to make it upshift?

It's upshifting normal not hanging
I'm not lifting up my foot from the pedal
 
It's upshifting normal not hanging
I'm not lifting up my foot from the pedal
OK - thanks for confirming. Sounds like it's not EZL related, no rev limiter at play. I'm back to either the BM/GM (less likely) or a valve body adjustment (more likely, especially if the VB is not the original).

:scratchchin:
 
I will order new oilfilter and oil tomorrow
And I will take down the oil pan and check the valve body for parts nr
And adjust the screw
 
ok, I am sorry, this is not the same issue, I suppose.
Dumb question: rev gauge is working correctly?😎
EXCELLENT question. I assumed it was, since it will pull to 6000+ in "B" position, but that is also worth checking!
 
You mentioned you adjusted bowden cable and removed slack: do the pointers alingne correctly?
The pointers er almost alignmen
I take some pictures
 

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It's sounding more like a transmission problem... possibly valve body.

The car has always done this since you bought it, correct? Have you ever removed the transmission pan to check the valvebody part numbers and/or change ATF & filter?
 
Yes I have changed oil and filter in may 2020 se pictures se post 110

I have have the same problem since I get the car I don't feel kickdown

Change gear oil and filter
The oil was clean
Change fan belt 96019-d5c3a1dd7cb7652175ef3cb662abaad1.jpg96020-ae6b312d4e125d26523649d817cf9bd4.jpg96021-d60991b2292b9b2ecf0a356816a60908.jpg
 
It's not easy to see the P/N stamped in black on your VB, but it appears to be P/N #140 270 67 07

The 1st gear start VB I bought from member @captruff several years ago has P/N #124 270 69 15 picked from an E420.

'95 E420 VB1.JPG
 
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It's not easy to see the P/N stamped in black on your VB, but it appears to be the same P/N #140 270 67 07 as on the VB I bought from member @captruff several years ago. That is a 1st gear start VB from an E420.
It does look like 140-270-67-07 in the photo in post #241, which is the stock valvebody for a late 500E/E500, and would be correct for an E500 Limited.

1620053523500.png


Arnt, 140-270-67-07 is not a FGS VB. The USA-spec 124.034 FGS VB's all have inked part numbers which start with 124- prefixes. You may want to double-check the number on the VB you purchased. A more definite verification is from the number stamped in the corner of the upper and lower housings. The lower casting is almost always marked "126 13", very late units may be "140 10". The upper casting varies but FGS will be 124-XX, and SGS will be 140-XX. If the photo in your post is the VB you bought, that's a second-gear start VB (sorry!).


EPC screenshot with the 036 VB's:

1620053402183.png
 
I was at the garage today and pull down the oil pan for transmission and the converter
I drained the oil and its was clean

I adjusted the screw 1 turn clockwise
I take some pictures of the parts nr
For valvebody
Is the valvebody right for my car?


But now it's shifting the gears at about 5200 rpm
I noticed the flears little bit
I will adjust the modulator tomorrow
I don't know it's help or not?

I have top up the oil after driving the car 30 min
 

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I was at the garage today and pull down the oil pan for transmission and the converter
I drained the oil and its was clean
I take some pictures of the parts nr
For valvebody
Is the valvebody right for my car
Yes, 140 270 67 07 is the original / correct VB for an E500.


I adjusted the screw 1 turn clockwise?
But now it's shifting the gears at about 5200 rpm
You went in the wrong direction. :(
Clockwise will lower upshift RPM.
Counter-clockwise will increase upshift RPM's.
You'll need to adjust it 1 turn CCW to get back to where it was, then another ~1 turn CCW to increase upshift RPM.



I noticed the flears little bit
I will adjust the modulator tomorrow
I don't know it's help or not?
Flaring, especially at full throttle upshifts, may be reduced by increasing modulator pressure. Turn CW (clockwise) to increase pressure and make the shifts firmer. Try 1 full turn for coarse adjustments, 1/4 turn or less for fine adjustments. As a baseline, set it so that it's just firm enough to have zero flare at WOT upshifts. If needed, tweak slightly for part-throttle upshifts. The modulator affects ALL shifts, if a particular one is not right, that will require changing springs inside the VB for the specific shift.
 
BTW - your vacuum modulator is incorrect. Do you have a record of when it was replaced, and what part number was used? They are color coded by pressure raring, and the bright green one is for lower pressure, for lower-torque engines. Stock 5.0L should be a black modulator, p/n 126-270-91-79 (or, 126-270-43-79).

It appears you may have 126-270-92-79 which is NOT correct for a 5.0L engine. :(

This also might be affecting your upshift RPM's.

I would replace the green modulator first, before you do anything else.

:run:

1620567650071.png


MB126-270-91-79.jpg 1620568024536.png
 
Ok but following this information
Yes, but if you read carefully, that is stating how to cure a transmission upshifting at too HIGH an RPM.

Yours is shifting at too LOW an RPM.

You have the opposite problem, you must turn the adjustment screw in the opposite direction.

:mushroom:

1620568885272.png
 

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