HOW-TO: Replacing M119 camshaft oiler tubes

[JC220]

A few members here mentioned that the tubes slighly pop out of place (not the end cap but the tube itself).
AFAIK the Camshaft bridges don't hold the tubes firmly, there is ~2 mm gap between the oil tube tabs and the bottom of the bridge

There is a small gap - but not as much as 2mm. More like 0.8 - 1.0mm.

The small gap does not impact on the sealing of the tubes at all. The oiler tubes and O Rings locate into a machined bore in the head. Thus the O ring can make 100% seal no matter where exactly it is resting in place. Indeed the first time the engine is fired up and under 3+bar oil pressure it is likely they will pop out the small amount and be out against the cam bearing bracket. This small amount of play is likely inbuilt to allow for repeated heat / cooling cycles and thermal expansion. It they made it a tight fit the ears might fracture on the tubes.

For me this small gap is a non-issue.

That was my understanding too. So what did metal tubes changed? It's been about 300 miles since change and the clutter is down by 2/3... You can see from the picture of my valvetrain that aside from conventional oil staining, it's clean - no gunk anywhere. When removing plastic tubes, each drained oil, so I don't think any were plugged up.

@gsxr, @JC220, any educated guesses?

@gerryvz, I sources metal tubes from @J-Sauce back in 2015. He had me o-rings put on them

Ref why you may have noticed an improvement here – the plastic tubes over many years of use and heat cycles could well have changed shape very slightly (where they seal in the head) and / or shrunk a very small amount in size. Combined with what Gerry said about the O rings getting age / heat hardened and possibly flat spotted too both of these occurrences could lead to some oil escaping past the seals and subsequently lowering the oil supply to the hydraulic lifters by a small amount. And given that these oiler tubes are all fed from the same oil gallery if one or more started to lose pressure then all other tube’s pressure could be impacted also. Not 100% convinced on this but it is a possibility. What is more likely is this-

When you remove the plastic oiler tubes they have cooled down. There could be hairline cracks or fissures in one or more of those original plastic tubes that only open up / become visible when at operating temperature and under oil pressure. Whereas the aluminium tubes do not have this weakness. In any event we know that these were changed from aluminium to plastic for cost cutting measures more likely than anything else so best get them changed to enjoy long term reliability.

The seal rings are inexpensive and should always be renewed with genuine parts at any point when removing and installing replacement tubes.

 

[gsxr]

Yup. What Joe said! ^^^

 

[Kyiv]

thanks for your thoughts!

 

[Kyiv]

Did a driver side yesterday and it cured remaining lifter noises - so far. Engine's very quiet now

Again, no popped oilier tubes just like on passenger side.

 

[Rockymtn400e]

Can anyone advise on the popped tubes and if it is safe to drive the vehicle? My 1993 400 with 73k on it just started exhibiting the signs of this, so I have a set of metal Rauch & Spiegel replacements on the way. However, I’m supposed to drop her off for paint correction tomorrow morning about 10 miles away from home. I would assume there are only one or two since it just started the other day from the passenger side cylinder bank.

 

[gerryvz]

It won't hurt anything with some modest use. But don't waste much time in replacing the tubes.

 

[Rockymtn400e]

Thanks Gerry! New tubes should arrive for the weekend so this is the only trip I plan on making in it like this... Should be interesting as I’m waiting on a new rear muffler from Fox, so currently it sounds like an offshore powerboat.

 

[LWB250]

Can anyone advise on the popped tubes and if it is safe to drive the vehicle? My 1993 400 with 73k on it just started exhibiting the signs of this, so I have a set of metal Rauch & Spiegel replacements on the way. However, I’m supposed to drop her off for paint correction tomorrow morning about 10 miles away from home. I would assume there are only one or two since it just started the other day from the passenger side cylinder bank.

You may get some tappet noise at idle. As long as it doesn't continue as you raise RPMs off idle you should be OK for a short time. As Gerry mentioned, I wouldn't let it go for too long.

Dan

 

[gerryvz]

Just came across this video on YouTube, where the dude was replacing the plastic oiler tubes on a late M119 with aluminum tubes. He used URO tubes, sadly. Also he changed out his timing chain top guides, spark plugs and valve cover gaskets as part of the job.

 

[R129 UK]

Just came across this video on YouTube, where the dude was replacing the plastic oiler tubes on a late M119 with aluminum tubes. He used URO tubes, sadly. Also he changed out his timing chain top guides, spark plugs and valve cover gaskets as part of the job.

Using URO sounds like a false economy especially as it was just preventative maintenance. I didn’t catch how much he said he paid for the 16…

I think I may have speed watched that video before.

 

[emerydc8]

I wonder if URO could screw up oiler tubes. Almost seems impossible, but based on past bad experiences with this brand I’ll stick with my 30-year old plastic tubes. Not one has failed so far on my ‘95.

 

[gerryvz]

Well, in the video he did say the URO tubes had burrs that he needed to file down. I think somewhere he said that he paid over $300 for the tubes, I can't remember how much he said he paid but it wasn't insignificant. I'd rather just pay $150 for a set of used factory metal tubes.

 

[emerydc8]

For sure. The video was good though. Doing the caps and valve covers without a torque wrench would make me nervous.

Now I’m wondering if I should replace my upper timing chain guides again since it’s been 15 years for my ‘94 and 12 years for my ‘95. Thoughts?

 

[gerryvz]

The upper chain guides should be fine - let that sleeping dog lie. They don't break like the ones in the ends of the cylinder heads do.

 

[gerryvz]

The upper chain guides should be fine - let that sleeping dog lie. They don't break like the ones in the ends of the cylinder heads do.

If you do remove your valve covers (say, to replace the valve cover gaskets, or check the cams, etc., I would opt to replace the upper chain guides. But I would only do this as a "while in there" repair. These guides aren't under a lot of constant tension or strain. It would be a good idea to order a set (don't forget the little rubber gasket that fits inside, it's cheap, and also the piece that fits toward the rear of the passenger side of the cylinder head) to have on hand for the next time you do remove your valve covers.

 

[emerydc8]

I would opt to replace the upper chain guides. But I would only do this as a "while in there"

Thanks. I think I’ll order the chain guides and parts you mention so when I do have an excuse to pull the valve covers I won’t have to wait for these parts, or hope they are still available.

 

[gsxr]

The "fingered" top clips (119-052-09-16) are the ones which tend to get brittle and break when you touch them. The larger piece that these clip on to, rarely breaks.

Good to have some of the top clips in stock... however, the price has gone nuts at the dealer. These had been $10-$15, last year (2024) these were $25 MSRP, now $45 MSRP, each in March 2025.