jftu105 300E Sportline Project

[jftu105]

Locally, a 1992 300E Sportline shows up. I scheduled to see it tomorrow. Here is the link. It seems that the car runs but the owner, who probably just acquired it, had no clue. He had many repair records of the two prior owners. Anything I should pay attention to in particular?

If I buy it, how difficult to find parts for it? Thanks.

Jftu105

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/pts/d/raleigh-mercedes-benz-e-sportline/6878436696.html

Mercedes Benz 1992-300E Sportline - $1000 (Raleigh NC)​

​

Rare black Sportline Mercedes 300E. 1992. Has chrome AMG Rims. Will sell complete car or part it out. Needs drivers side quarter panel and drivers side headlight. Has the black racing seats, wood in excellent condition. Grill, hood, trunk, great condition. Great parts car, or fixer up.​

 

[sheward]

Nice find. This car should have a Sportline steering wheel, steering box, springs, and swaybars as well as the seats which look unheated. The rest of the car will be identical to any sedan from the era with the same known issues. There should be no problem finding any parts you may need/want. If you decide to part it or pass on it I would be interested.

drew

 

[gsxr]

Nice find. This car should have a Sportline steering wheel, steering box, springs, and swaybars as well as the seats which look unheated. The rest of the car will be identical to any sedan from the era with the same known issues. There should be no problem finding any parts you may need/want. If you decide to part it or pass on it I would be interested.

drew

Yep, what Drew said. Very neat car, shame about the damage. It's worth the asking price for the parts alone. If it runs well, that's a bonus. Don't expect much power from the M103 though.

 

[jftu105]

I will pounce on it tomorrow if the seller actually answers the phone tomorrow. Thanks!!!

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

OK, just got off the phone with the seller. The car is parked less than 10 minutes from my house. He bought the car about 3 years ago. Within 30 days, his car was hit by a truck in front and the insurance company paid him $4900. He used the money to fix the damages with a new front end, new hood, etc. from a mint 300E with a bad transmission by a shop locally. He then drove the car daily for about an year; then, it got hit again. This time it damaged a fender and a headlight. He then parked the car for 18 months. We are going to meet at 3 pm tomorrow. I will bring in a battery to get it started. We will see. As it is only 10 minutes from my house, I think I can have it towed to my house without too much trouble.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Pounced on it! Bought it for $1100.

The seller told me that there was another eager buyer, offering him $1300, but he lived 90 minutes away. The car started up with a few cranks after sitting for 18 months. The idling is smooth. The transmission fluid also looks good. All four tires are flat for sitting too long, but they are AMG wheels. Initially, I told the seller to get $1300 from the other guy and if it does not work out, he can come back to me. Then, I decided to offer him $1100 if he would make the decision right away. He agreed. I have not paid him, but he gave me the keys and the title. The title is in his ex-girl friend's name. So, I will meet with his ex and go through the transaction tomorrow. I have four spare tires to replace the tires.

I decide to offer $100 more because the headlights are the upgraded one from E320, 1994-5. I have two sets of spares. The damages to the driver side fender was very clean. It was torn up at the front edge, without damaging all other places. Other than that, the paint is beautiful and barely any other bady damages. The interior is clean, with no rips to the chairs. The previous owner (before the seller) put in some fancy woofer to the front speakers, kind of bad taste, and they would be restored to the stock look.

Kind of excited to get it. This will be my second car with a good paint once the fender is replaced. We will see if this car ends my thirst for a cabriolet.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

Congrats !!

The BW 124 peanut gallery experts should have plenty of maintenance advice for you.....

 

[jftu105]

Thanks for the maintenance tip.
Just replaced all four tires and brought back the AMG wheels. Will drive the car back tomorrow. Will put it on insurance tonight but I won't get a liscence for it until it is all PRETTY AND READY TO SHOW OFF!

jftu105

 

[Maui]

Congrats. He gave you the keys and title without giving him any money? Sounds like the car was not good luck for him.

 

[ace10]

Congrats. He gave you the keys and title without giving him any money? Sounds like the car was not good luck for him.

The car belongs to the Ex. lol

 

[jftu105]

That was the interesting part. The seller told me that after the 2nd incident when the car got hit by a truck, he felt that he and this car were not compatible. He parked the car, which was 18 months ago. I was surprised by the trust. Of course, I look trustworthy, don't I? I think that he meant to fix the car but perhaps the money got tight and never got to do it.

The title was under the Ex's name. I will give the money to the Ex directly. The whole thing was a bit surreal.

I really don't know if the story of another buyer offering $1300 is true, and this other buyer actually wanted to see the car before 3 pm when we scheduled to meet. The seller told me that he already committed to let me see the car first and declined. The story itslef is worth $100.

Geico told me that I don't have to put the car on my policy and I am still covered when I drive it back within a grace period.

By the way, the mileage is low, 135xxx miles.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Brought the sportline 1992 back today. The seller drove the car to nearly zero brake pads in all four. The front is basically metal rubbing metal, making big noise when I kept 30 or 25 mph driving back over 3 miles. A few things I notice which need to sort through:

1. The oil pressure, fuel gage, and coolant temperature, not working. Rpm not working either. Speedometer works.

2. All four rotors and brake pads need replacement.

3. Drive side fender replacement

4. Transmission shifts a bit rough, but fast.

5. Engine actually runs smoothly. I added a gallon before driving.

6. Heatlight, drive side, replacement

7. AC fan not running

8. Center Brake light broken

9. Rear passenger side window regulator replacement

10. The engine hood open lever gone, the cable works with a plier.

11. Will do engine oil change, transmission filter/fulid change, fuel filter, air filter, coolant flush, brake hoses, brake fluid, .....

Plus many others, as I go through it. $1100 + $$$, is it worth it?

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

Assuming this is all DIY stuff... should be reasonable to resurrect. Get OE rotors if needed, they don't cost much more than aftermarket... Zimmerperson Z-coat would be my second choice. Most all the stuff you describe is piddly / normal wear & tear.

 

[jftu105]

Thanks for the suggestion. The seller really ran the car to the ground. Did not do anything to address the normal wear and tear stuff. The previous owners probably did better.

Just washed the outside and applied two layers of wax. Really shinning. Lookig closely, there are of course some imperfections. But one, two steps away, the paint looks gorgeous. I never had a car this shinning but also this bad, mechanically. Yes, I can do all those I listed. Alternator regulator is probably out too, because when I turned the key not all lower gauge lights come on. Also vacuumed the inside. Noticed the astray has a bit of cigarette ashes and one cigarette butt. I hate it. After sitting for 18 months, the cigarette smell is not strong, but now I can smell it, however faint. Will do de-odoring. Sprayed some original mouth wash to kill germs. The seats are in nice shape. The arm rest broke. Will find a replacement for it.

Best trick to get rid of cigarette smell?

Well, this is a summer project. I will take my time, one at a time. Order the two front brake rotors and pads first, and hood pad... In fact, ordered $200 parts off FCP. Save $10 with a 5% last minute check out coupon code.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

While washing the sportline, I noticed that the fenders were rolled to accomodate the 17" AMG wheels/tires. Now, even if I find a new fender to replace the driver side one, I have to find a shop to roll it so that it will match the passenger side. I also want to get rid of those tasteless woofer installed over the front door panels.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

Cigarette smoke is best removed with an ozone machine, reasonably priced on Amazon, well worth the investment. May take multiple treatments. Google for more tips & tricks such as using baking soda or coffee grounds (?), and of course generous Febreeze dousing.

Unless the wheel/tire combo sticks out quite a bit further than stock, you may not need to roll the fender lips. What is the width and offset of the wheel, and the tire size? Buying an Eastwood fender roller may be cheaper than paying a shop. Also make sure you don't buy an early fender; the early 124 fenders do not work with the wide side moulding/cladding.

I wouldn't be too quick to lose those custom door panels. With good speakers / amp / head unit, they could sound much better than stock. Depends if you want factory appearance and don't care about sound, or if you want good sound and don't care what it looks like.

EDIT: The ad is still up and it looks like C36 AMG wheels, possibly a square set of 17 x 7.5 ET35. With 225/45/17 tires you should need minimal fender massaging, but fender spacers at the front & rear openings may help. See section C of this document, which is for a similar size with less aggressive offset:
http://www.w124performance.com/docs...el_installation/wheel_install_17x7.5_ET42.pdf

 

[outrbnks]

I decide to offer $100 more because the headlights are the upgraded one from E320, 1994-5. I have two sets of spares.

Kind of excited to get it. This will be my second car with a good paint once the fender is replaced. We will see if this car ends my thirst for a cabriolet.

jftu105

Nice score, just one comment on the headlights, from the one picture of the left front, the good headlight appear to be a Pre-Facelift Euro one, not Facelift 94-95 versions.

If you have spare 94-95 lights, you'll see a curve in the lens (inner top corner), to match the hood of a facelift car.

The one lens I can see, does not have this curve, and it shouldn't.

So if I'm seeing correctly, your spare facelift headlights aren't good spares, and you need to source a Euro Pre-facelift headlight

Here is a link to one example on eBay right now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Merced...217282&hash=item2f0452cf88:g:TZkAAOSwCU1Ypvgd

Nice buy, and good luck

PS: just looked closer at the eBay ad, that is for the lens only, not the entire headlight, and they are calling it a right side.

It's a drivers side of a LHD car, I would call it a "Left" hand lens, something to make sure of.

Here is another link to a set

https://www.ebay.com/itm/85-89-Merc...071929?hash=item4b62f998b9:g:CVkAAOSwBc5cplzX

 

[jftu105]

Thanks for the heads up with the cigarette smell, fender and the headlight. Too bad, if I need to buy another headlight.

Waiting for parts to arrive and then get brakes fixed up. From there, I will start the real restoration.

By the way, I have a secret solution for cleaning from my classical camera collection days. It is hydrogen perocide mixing equally with house hold amonia. Good for lens, camera keyboard. I will try that first to see if the smell can be eradicated. I am very senstive to cigarette smell, never a smoker (did not inhale) and really hate that smell. It is faint but since I noticed the cigarette butt, I am paranoid about it.

jftu105

 

[JC220]

Congrats on your purchase and it sounds like a very nice project! I love projects like these be sure to post plenty of photos to document bringing it back to good shape

 

[gsxr]

Is the driver headlight assembly damaged beyond repair? Or does it just need a replacement lens? A pair of Depos would be the budget fix.

 

[jftu105]

I will still try to fit the spare headlights I have for E320, 1994-5. I checked the difference. It seems that it is only about the inner edge. For the newer one, it has a curve to accommodate the new grill design, while the old grill is straight down. I will replace both sides with my spare headlights. It might look a bit weir but should be fine as long as the hood can close tight. I might add a bit silicon to prevent water leakage from there.

Just went through the service records of the previous owner. It seems that the 2nd owner bought the car in New Jersey in 2007 at 86892 miles and sold it in 6-27-2015 in North Carolina in my city for $4995 at 117866 miles. He relocated from New Jersey to North Carolina (Smart Move). The third owner, the seller to me at 135060 miles, drove the car for about two years, putting in 18000 miles, with two collisions, and basically ran the car to ground, without any service records, with last 18 months sitting. I am grateful that the sun damage was much during those 18 months, despite global warming.

Among the service records, both front struts were replaced at 99510 miles in 2010 and both lower control arms were replaced too (2010 and 2008). I will check the boots to make sure no cracking. The suspension is so firm that I can hardly push it down, both front and rear. I guess that this is why it is called sportline.

The AC was converted to R134A in 2011.

Also found a reproduced copy of the original sale window sticker (copy). It shows that the original price is $49500 and the sportline option is $2000. I was surprised that the sportline option is only a $2000 option. I guess that over the years, the entire car, except the sportline option depreciated 80%, while the sportline option actually appreciated by at least 100%. A website estimates the current value of this car at $6600. Perhaps, once I get everything in order, it might fetch $5000.

I am going to call the 2nd owner and get some more information out of him, including the question why he had such a bad taste to put that horrible speakers in front (joking).

Tomorrow, I will visit a private junk yard, which has a significant collection W124. No W124 at this moment at any LKQ yards near me. I will try to find a driver side fender at the same paint color.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

You are correct, the 94-95 lights will fit just fine, but will look like the attached pics. Note the hood is not closed in those photos.

I thought all 1992 USA model years already had R-134a from the factory? Is the AC decal on the radiator support red or green?

 

[gerryvz]

My first W124, a 1992 300TE, had R-134a from the factory.

 

[jftu105]

I think this sportline is an early 1992 or late 1991 production car. The last six VIN numbers are 682999. Just checked and indeed it has a red tag, marked as R12. The fitting was converted with an R134A added on top of a R12 fitting at the lower pressure port.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

What is the VIN?

 

[jftu105]

WDBEA30E0NB682999

10/28/1999 sold to the 2nd owner at 68717 miles
10/29/2007 sold to the 3rd owner at 86,892 miles
5-14-2015 sold to the 4th owner at 117xxx miles
5-4-2019 I bought it at 135065 miles

 

[gerryvz]

The car is very definitely a 1992 model, produced and delivered in December 1991. The VIN has a code 802 — indicating it is a 1992 model — as well as a code 952 confirming it is a Sportline model.

Official model year 1992 production would have started in August/Sept 1991, so this car was produced well into the model year.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[2phast]

You are correct, the 94-95 lights will fit just fine, but will look like the attached pics. Note the hood is not closed in those photos.

I thought all 1992 USA model years already had R-134a from the factory? Is the AC decal on the radiator support red or green?

View attachment 82291 View attachment 82292

The W201 was the one exception, even the 93 model still had R12

 

[gerryvz]

From what I can see in the EPC, it does appear that this particular car is an R-12 car.

Too bad the car was converted to R-134a ... should have left it R-12. With R-12 it will cool and operate much more efficiently. I actually converted my 560SEC **back** to R-12 (it had been converted to 134a prior to my ownership) because it was so miserable in the Texas heat. R-12 transformed it into a new car.

 

[gsxr]

Too bad the car was converted to R-134a ... should have left it R-12. With R-12 it will cool and operate much more efficiently. I actually converted my 560SEC **back** to R-12 (it had been converted to 134a prior to my ownership) because it was so miserable in the Texas heat. R-12 transformed it into a new car.

Gerry is right. If you are not happy with the AC performance, consider converting back to either R-12, or an R-12 replacement. R134a does not work well in the older systems designed for R12, the components are all undersized. The factory R-134a systems in the 400E/500E are excellent.

 

[jftu105]

But, R12 is hard to find and expensive. I am happy with R134a on my E320 1994-5 in North Carolina. We will see. Thanks for the suggestion.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

But, R12 is hard to find and expensive. I am happy with R134a on my E320 1994-5 in North Carolina. We will see. Thanks for the suggestion.

jftu105

R12 is expensive - but may be worth it if the cooling is poor. As I said, the FACTORY systems designed for R-134a are ok (like your E320). They have different components. MB didn't just change the refrigerant, they upgraded other components due to 134a being less efficient and creating more heat to be dissipated. R12 system have different compressors and expansion valves.

There are R-12 alternatives which are much more affordable, that work just as well (or better!) than R-12. AutoFrost, Hot Shot, and Enviro-Safe are a few. These are blends, and are best when used in a leak-free system. If a blend leaks, if you top it off, the mixture gets out of balance. With enough top-offs, the performance may drop off, then the system needs to be evacuated & re-charged.

Anyway - you'll find out soon enough when summer arrives!

 

[gerryvz]

R-12 is EASY to find. Check your local Craigslist, or eBay. All over the place, and it's dramatically come down in price to the point where if you get a good deal it's not much more than 134a.

A 134a E320 (which was DESIGNED for 134a is going to be a FAR CRY better than a converted R-12 car in your climate. Trust me, you are going to be miserable.

 

[gerryvz]

R12 system have different compressors and expansion valves.

That's not correct. R-12 and R-134a systems use the same compressor, at least on many models. At least, the compressors I have replaced on my G320 (134a factory) and 560SEC have been spec'd for BOTH refrigerants. They do come prepped for 134a, just have to be drained and evacuated before use with R-12, but they are the identical unit. This is the Denso unit that I have in my 560SEC.

 

[gsxr]

That's not correct. R-12 and R-134a systems use the same compressor, at least on many models.

I think you are right. The EPC shows a different compressor with an engine number break, but the break point appears to be prior to the R-134a switchover. It's hard to figure out dates from engine numbers without a range of VIN's to experiment with. I know there was some later 124 which used a larger-displacement compressor but I can't recall the details offhand. Thought it was related to 134a, but apparently not.

 

[Bogeyman]

My understanding is the main difference in systems is the condenser. The R-134 systems have a parallel flow condenser which is more efficient.

 

[gsxr]

My understanding is the main difference in systems is the condenser. The R-134 systems have a parallel flow condenser which is more efficient.

I thought so too - but the EPC shows the same condenser for all years, with either R-12 or R-134a. Note the 6-cyl condenser is different than the V8, but no change based on refrigerant.

It may be my imagination but I always found the W124+M119 chassis (all of which have R-134a in USA) to have excellent A/C performance when the system is working properly. On the flip side I had a couple of 6-cyl 124's with factory R-134a (1993 and 1995 model years) and both seemed weaker than their V8 counterparts. I never did pin down the difference. They use different condensers and compressors, but I thought it was due to packaging reasons, not different sizing. Could also be that both of my 6-cyl cars were not performing at peak efficiency though.

 

[Melville]

I thought so too - but the EPC shows the same condenser for all years, with either R-12 or R-134a. Note the 6-cyl condenser is different than the V8, but no change based on refrigerant.

It may be my imagination but I always found the W124+M119 chassis (all of which have R-134a in USA) to have excellent A/C performance when the system is working properly. On the flip side I had a couple of 6-cyl 124's with factory R-134a (1993 and 1995 model years) and both seemed weaker than their V8 counterparts. I never did pin down the difference. They use different condensers and compressors, but I thought it was due to packaging reasons, not different sizing. Could also be that both of my 6-cyl cars were not performing at peak efficiency though.

My E320 wagon blows so cold it can be painful to be in the car! Frostbite! Both my E550 and 500E blow cold at about the same temp - i.e. as cold as a properly functioning AC system should be. But the E320 is REALLY cold.

The blower on my wagon was replaced a few years ago so that might be it. I just changed the blower motor on my 500E but haven't really driven it much with the AC on since, so maybe I'll notice a change. But I'm not sure that improved blower performance would really make it feel colder.

 

[gerryvz]

I thought so too - but the EPC shows the same condenser for all years, with either R-12 or R-134a. Note the 6-cyl condenser is different than the V8, but no change based on refrigerant.

It may be my imagination but I always found the W124+M119 chassis (all of which have R-134a in USA) to have excellent A/C performance when the system is working properly.

yep. Performs excellently. I just drove 65 miles from my house to Dulles to catch a flight, 85F ambient, A/C on. Kept me ice cold the whole way !!

 

[2phast]

I converted my 190e from R12 to R134A. Also replaced the condenser and AC filter, a couple of lines, all the O-rings, drained the compressor and refilled with the proper amount of R134A and oil. Big mistake, it never did cool the way the R12 system did.

 

[jftu105]

Thanks for all the inputs, but AC can wait.

Made some progress today. Got a black paint fender today from a private junk yard. The paint is pretty. Worth $100.

Also got some interior parts. Put in the hood opening cable puller. Now I can open the hood properly. Also repaired the arm rest. It was broken at the support. Got one from the yard, but the leather was rotten. It turned out that the leather can be peeled off and fit on quite easily. So the arm rest is there too.

Cannot find a window regulator for the rear passenger window. All of those at the yard are broken too. What's wrong with the passegner side rear window? I had one broken with one of my E320's too. Will get one from eBay and go from there.

Put in the "new" fender and refit the head lights (E320's), both sides, and turn signals. The head light wirings are different. Now, I don't have high beam. I will figure that out later. The connectors are different from those of E320.

Beauty is skin deep, but I never have a shinning car except this one and the dark gray E320.

Here are the pictures. Once I got the brake rotors from FCP, the mechanical restoration will begin. For the look, the retoration is done!

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Received parts from FCP and set to work. Finally, took off all four tires and put them on the stand. I thought the seller ran the car to the ground with both frond and back brakes, nearly or metal to metal. To my surprise, the front roltor and pads are just fine, while the rear pads are quite thin, but not down to the metal yet. Then, why I had horrible noise from the front when the car was moving?

It turned out that the sportline uses 16 inch tires or wider wheels. I put a spare set of 15 inches from my E320 and the front wheel caught the dust cover around the rotor, scraping off some aluminum inside the wheel, about 1 mm, after 3 miles of driving. So, I moved a set of 16in tires from my 1995 E320. No noises after that. That's the good news. From here, it is all bad.

I actually ordered a new set of front rotors and pads, which I would save for the future. However, with the tires off, I now examine the tie rods and lower control arms. All tie rods are shots with boots all torn. I wonder if the tierods are the same between E320 and 300E. If so, I have spare tierods to put in. Once I took them off, I will be able to tell. The boot of one lower control arm is torn and I will reboot as there is no play. The brake hoses are old and need replacement. All bolts and nuts look rusty. I hope i won't round them when I try to take them off. The brake bleeders are all rusty too. Rust! The enemy of the state!

Now to the rear, I see the problems due to rust. On the driver side, one control arm has it lower coupling piece broken off and I need to find a replacement. I don't know what it is called or the part number. It is in pictures #1 and #2. More bad news, the hard tubes and brake hoses are so rusty, the flare wrech won't engage properly and it was so tight, I could not take it off. I had to resort to violence and use the locking plier to break it off. Now, I need to replace the entire hard tube for both sides. Will go to NAPA. I remember that they have hard tubes. Or, I might have to order them online. I also need two new clamp piece (see picture) because the old ones are so rusty and broken.

The rear muffler was quite new but the muffer shop did a lousy job to fit it. I took it off because I also need space to remove the hard tubes from the three-way coupling in the middle.

I wonder how many accidents, in particular in midwest and northeast, happened due to brake hoses and tubes failures. It is quite scary if you ask me. I had a brake hose broke on my before, in the 1989 and since them, I replace every brake hose when I get a car.

Here is the plan:

1. Get the brake hard tube and replace them, along with the brake hose. Bleed the entire brake lines with new brake fluid. I hope that the front hard tubes are not too rusty and I can loosen them without braking them. I sprayed a lot of penetration oil and hopefully, I can loosen them without incidents tomorrow.

2. Get rear rotors and pads, or at least pads. Probably get them locally. Don't want to wait another 10 days for the parts.

3. Change all tie rods and do the reboot for the driver side lower control arm.

4. Hood pads

5. Engine oil change.

6. Transmission fluid change.

7. Fuel filter change and fuel line lose (right off the filter or pump).

8. ....

Beautiy is really skin deep!!!

jftu105

 

[ccrelan]

Sportline wheels are 15x7.0 ET41.

Standard are 15x6.5 ET44.

 

[luckymike]

I don't see the lower control arm issue you're referring to but I have two rear lower control arms that you can have for the cost of shipping. I replaced them thinking new ones came with outer bushings. Oops. So I now have an extra set. The inner bushings look fine.

 

[gsxr]

You were asking about part numbers for bushings, do you mean the ones in these photos?

 

[jftu105]

Dave, yes, the bottom piece is gone. I assume it is a bushing for the trailing arm? I have more pictures to show it.

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I had the worst brake job ever today. Any thing could go wrong went wrong.

First, went to local NAPA to get hard tubes and a tube bender. They are out of 30-inch tube and the original is about 33 inches long, bending around. I had to get a 40 inch tube. The other side is a 20-inch tube with more bending.

To make the long story short, I manage to bend them (uglily) and put them all in. I also needed to make two U-shape brackets for holding the brake hose and the hard tube. I got some spare sheet metal from the old dishwasher I threw out. With some drilling and bending, I made two without issues.

The front hard tubes opened without breaking, the only thing went right today.

Replaced the brake hose and put in new bleeder. Checked for the leak with my power bleeder at 20 psi. Wow, all fittings were leaking. Had to go in and tightened them really tight!!! Leaks stopped.

Moved on to the front, the passenger side. Everything was fine until I tried to remove the bleeder. It was so rusty and it twirsted off!!! What a horror. For the next three hours, I tried every way to remove the broken bleeder. My lefty drill bit set, my removal bits, my T drive, etc. Nothing works. Finally, I decided to drill it out (wrong decision) and retap it. Won't work. My tap piece won't do the job at all. I decided to put the brake hose it and see if the bleeder would leak. No, it is sealed. Squeeze some RTV into the bleeder hole to seal it further and moved on to the drver side. Will buy a caliber to replace it but for now, it will do. I won't be driving it any time soon.

All OK until I tried to put the new brake hose in. It just won't screw in properly. It kept twisting. Tried the old one I just remove, same thing. Finally, I took a M10-1.0 bolt and it screwed in nicely. But the dame brake hose just won't. Finally, it decided, be it twisted or not, I would drive it in. The cast iron is a lot stronger and the only thing will ruin is the brake hose whichi is cheap. Somehow, it screwed in and sealed tight. Wasted so much time.

Did the bleeding and all went well. The old brake fluid was dark, green, and with many residues. Yak!

This venture into a car older than 1994 is not working out too well so far. I need to get a caliber to replace the passenger side.

Tired!

Next time, if I wanted to get a car older than 94, please slap me to my senses!

jftu105

 

[JC220]

Living in a land of rust here - that car isn't too bad at all IMO

I have had the caliper bleeders snap off too. The way I get them out is to weld a nut onto the remnants and that gets them out. The extreme heat of the weld works wonders also and the nut has a grip on the stub. If you have a welder try that next time

For new brake lines I use spools of Kunifer pipe which will outlast the car itself. It is a real shame all cars come with mild steel brake lines. I have a small queue forming at my garage of MBs that need new brake lines

 

[jftu105]

I should have given up on the bleeder and use the brake hose for bleeding. In this way, the caliber will still work right. Too late. For the time being, it is sealed but I don't feel safe to drive it. Will definitely replace the caliber.

I lived in Michigan and Indiana for 15 years. I have seen rust but I don't want it in my car!

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

Dave, yes, the bottom piece is gone. I assume it is a bushing for the trailing arm? I have more pictures to show it.

That is one of the 4 main subframe bushings. You'll want to replace at least the two fronts, and if you are doing those, I'd replace the rears as well (they're probably shot). Common issue on most any 124 chassis due to age & miles. Photos and part numbers are here... the Sportline rear bushings are NLA, so if you replace them, you would have install "standard" rear/large bushings:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_subframe/bushings/

For the passenger front caliper, I don't have one available, but you could check with David Hendy or captruff. Pretty sure your 1992 car will have the early style floating 1-piston calipers? Rebuilts are super cheap... might be worth shelling out for them. Looks like the Nugeon includes both parts of the caliper (piston section and also the bracket with sliding pins). $53 including core:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog....0l+l6,1193936,brake+&+wheel+hub,caliper,1704