jftu105 300E Sportline Project

[jftu105]

The problem is that I have not seen the killer sale yet. Also, although I like Milwaukee, it is made in China. I guess M18 it is, China or not, as soon as I see a deal. I have learned from 500eboard if I do what gsxr said, I am always ahead.

I do have a Milwaukee impact driver which I used to install my siding and it worked nicely. I have the battery already. Wilwaukee makes your impact wrenches outside of China, please! Avoiding tariff is a incentive.

I guess with an impact wrench, I will be able to do the steering idler bushing. It was so tight last time I tried it and I quit.

Finally, this sportline is becoming such a nice running car. With the spark plugs cleaned and gapped properly (1.0 mm, HR9DC+), the engine runs so much better. Once it warms up, with idling down about 750 rpm, the transmission shift flare when shifting from R to D is much less.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

The problem is that I have not seen the killer sale yet. Also, although I like Milwaukee, it is made in China. I guess M18 it is, China or not, as soon as I see a deal.

I didn't like it being made in China either, after decades of Milwaukee being made in USA. But, it has performed well so far. And, I couldn't find any other brand with similar specs/price that wasn't made in China. Poke around various retailers on major holidays (4th of July, Labor Day, BF/CM) and eventually there will be a good package deal with your choice of tool + battery.

At first I was bummed my kit only came with a small 2Ah battery, but the battery lasts quite a long time, and weighs less than the larger (3-5Ah) batteries. It's a decent compromise. Credit goes to Glen for recommending this one, and also the HF battery-powered LED light bar. Both have been well worth the expense. And, it's way easier to bring the cordless impact to the junkyard... previously I'd bring a portable air tank & air impact, which was a major nuisance!

 

[jftu105]

The spark plugs currently in my sportline is HR9DC. I also notice the spark plug wires are at 1 kohm. The M104 of E320, 1994-5 has 2 kohm with the wires. I read about H9DC (non-resistance type) and HR9DC (resistance type). Both of these plugs are listed as for M103. Am I missing something?

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

You should be using non-resistor plugs with both M103 and M104 engines.

 

[jftu105]

There will be resistance involved anyway. For M104, the wire has 2kohm. For M103, the wire has 1 kohm. I will measure the resistance of the plug for M103 (HR9DC0). I assume it would be about 1 kohm; therefore, the coil is seeing 2 kohm altogether. The entire impedance during the discharge cycle is a lot higher than 2 kohm across the plug gap. As a result, I think it won't really matter that much for M103, which is the reason why HR9DC0 and H9DC0 are both approved to be used for M103. I am interested in getting feedback on the difference people actually experienced between these two plugs. I never used resistance type on my E320 (M104). I am using bigger gaps now as suggested here and it works great!

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

AFAIK, Mercedes only specifies non-resistor plugs for both M103 and M104 engines. I suspect you will only find references to resistor plugs being "approved" or "acceptable" in aftermarket catalogs (either vendor catalogs or plug manufacturer catalogs), which is not the same as Mercedes approval.

I vaguely recall that resistor plugs tend to be around 5k ohms, but you can measure to confirm. In general, resistor plugs are not recommended for MB engines with distributor caps, as these ignition systems were designed with specific resistances in the caps and plugs boots only. Later models with coil-on-plug ignitions are less picky about the plug type. That said, a lot of people have run resistor plugs without issue, but personally I wouldn't do it. There's no significant cost savings, and you can still obtain the non-resistor plugs from multiple sources.

 

[jftu105]

Bought six Bosch H9DC0 plugs off FCP. There were listed as Genuine Mercedes but they are Bosch, nothing to do with Mercedes. They of course will work just fine but kind of bad taste. Measure the resistance, and yes, they are non-resistor plugs. I sent an inquiry to FCP about their false advertisement.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

Yes, FCP should refund you the price difference for sending something that is advertised wrongly.

I refuse to use them anymore after they ripped me off on a part that I paid for: https://www.500eboard.co/forums/index.php?threads/fcp-euro-parts-shipment-failure.12608/

 

[gsxr]

Looks like you aren't the only one. Someone else had the same problem (received Bosch, not OE MB) and posted a review in March:

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-spark-plug-mer-0031590403#reviews

 

[jftu105]

I saw that review and thought it might be just one time mistake. I guess it is not.

jftu105

 

[mikeym]

I didn't like it being made in China either, after decades of Milwaukee being made in USA. But, it has performed well so far. And, I couldn't find any other brand with similar specs/price that wasn't made in China. Poke around various retailers on major holidays (4th of July, Labor Day, BF/CM) and eventually there will be a good package deal with your choice of tool + battery.

At first I was bummed my kit only came with a small 2Ah battery, but the battery lasts quite a long time, and weighs less than the larger (3-5Ah) batteries. It's a decent compromise. Credit goes to Glen for recommending this one, and also the HF battery-powered LED light bar. Both have been well worth the expense. And, it's way easier to bring the cordless impact to the junkyard... previously I'd bring a portable air tank & air impact, which was a major nuisance!

Check out home depot this week and around Father's day. They are running few combo deals on M12 and M18. I just picked up a M12 fuel kit + 3/8" ratchet with 2 batteries for $200. I walked through their aisle today and they had some new M18 promos posted but did not check out the details.

 

[jftu105]

Just checked HD and did not find any deals. In fact, there are many M18 midrange torque on eBay for $175, tool only and free shipping. I assume that they are not fake. I don't have an urgent need for one at this moment. When I need one, I will just get it off eBay.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

OK, put the new "Mercedes/Bosch" spark plugs in, H9DC0, non-resistor type. The old ones, HR9DC+, were made in Russia (What?! Muller Investigation is in order!) and their resistance is measured to be about 4 to 4.5 kOhm. The new "Mercedes/Bosch" plugs were made in Germany (East Germany?).

Indeed, the non-resistor type works so much better. The engine is definitely purring, rival my E320 now. I also regapped them at 0.9 mm (the thickest gauge I have), but mostly likely ending up at 0.95 to 1.0 mm.

gsxr is right again!!! I guess GVZ would be wrong (first time ever) to predict a refund from FCP. I don't need it and don't want it. They should just correct their listing. $3.5 per plug for a Bosch super is still fair.

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

Just checked HD and did not find any deals. In fact, there are many M18 midrange torque on eBay for $175, tool only and free shipping. I assume that they are not fake. I don't have an urgent need for one at this moment. When I need one, I will just get it off eBay.

That sounds about right. Problem is, the battery and charger are expensive to buy separately, which is why you want to look for a complete kit.

At the moment, I'm not seeing any 1/2" mid-torque impact kits much under ~$300. Think I paid ~$225 including tax a year ago (details are in the "tool" thread).

Good to hear the new plugs are working well!

 

[JC220]

gsxr is right again!!!

Yes the gixer is always correct!

 

[gerryvz]

Yes the gixer is always correct!

The Gixxer is also the forum record-holder in Yellmerian Awards

I purchased a dual charger from HD, which fits the M18 and the M12 batteries. I had purchased a Milwaukee battery powered ratchet some time back, and it's nice to be able to charge both batteries on a single bench-top charger.

$26 on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Lithium-Battery-Milwaukee-48-59-1812/dp/B07FMY32P1/
GSXR edit: Note the above charger is aftermarket, not Milwaukee brand. Click here for the Milwaukee unit which is a few bucks more.

Cheers,
Gerry

 

[jftu105]

Do not trust the factory spark plug gap, I just learned. After learning the benefits of a larger gap of spark plugs, I went ahead to check on my blue E320. The plugs were MB genuine (French maker who actually makes all kinds of plugs for car companies; i.e., MB genuine does not mean that much.) The factory gap should be 0.8 mm as with other sets I put in in my other cars. To my surprise, all the gaps were 0.9 mm or slightly larger even though I did not change the gap when I put them in. No wonder that this blue E320 feels more powerful with the engine.

jftu105

 

[JC220]

Do not trust the factory spark plug gap, I just learned. After learning the benefits of a larger gap of spark plugs, I went ahead to check on my blue E320. The plugs were MB genuine (French maker who actually makes all kinds of plugs for car companies; i.e., MB genuine does not mean that much.) The factory gap should be 0.8 mm as with other sets I put in in my other cars. To my surprise, all the gaps were 0.9 mm or slightly larger even though I did not change the gap when I put them in. No wonder that this blue E320 feels more powerful with the engine.

jftu105

Never trust any spark plug to be gapped correctly out of the box. They are supposed to be - but they are rarely accurate out of the box IMO.

Hence - it is good practice to always check and correct spark plug gaps before installing them.

 

[jftu105]

Well, I got a reply from FCP regarding the Bosch spark plugs listed as Genuine MB. They said the listing should be corrected and they will. That's all.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

Well, I got a reply from FCP regarding the Bosch spark plugs listed as Genuine MB. They said the listing should be corrected and they will. That's all.

jftu105

If they charged you for a Genuine part that is more than the aftermarket part, then they owe you a refund for the difference. I’d hold them to this — it’s the principle of the matter.

 

[jftu105]

It is $3.49 per plug, hardly genuine pricing. I want them to correct the listing mistake. Here is the actual reply:

Ramon Pagan (FCP Euro) Jun 2, 12:02 PM EDT Hello Thanks for contacting FCP Euro! Bosch is the Original Manufacturer of this spark plug which is why the spark plug has the Bosch logo on it, I apologize for the lack of update on the site for this part and I will be reporting this to my catalogue manager to fix. I'm here to help with any further questions or concerns! Best regards, Ramon Ramon Pagan Customer Service Advisor

 

[gerryvz]

I think it's just easier, if you want a factory part, to get it through mboemparts.com and use the 500EPROMO code (for this site) to get free shipping. The factory plugs will be as good or better than the aftermarket ones, anyway.

There is not ONE aftermarket parts site out there that can beat the discounts on factory parts from mboemparts and several other MB dealers that sell online at 25+% discounts off of list, some sites with free shipping.

 

[jftu105]

mboemparts.com is good and the freeshipping code works. Just went there and checked, but no spark plugs available. I bought subframe bushings from them and are happy.

FCP's lifetime replaceent program is really not that great. First, you have to buy the identical part (and quantity) from them first. Then you pay shipping to send the part back to see if they will accept. I bought 24 MB genuine spark plugs (for four cars) from them. In order to get free replacement, I have to buy 24 plugs again and ship 24 old ones back to get credits. For the center links, by Lemfoedor, also purchased from FCP, I cannot get a life time replacement anymore because they don't sell it anymore. FCP does keep the list of the parts I have purchased, a long list, but I have not been able to get a single free replacement yet.

Yes, it would be great if you actually can get free replacement but it is not really free. Nevertheless, it is still a good thing if you can take advantage of it.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

I've seen/heard of only a very very very few actual, real-world examples of this vaunted FCP "lifetime warranty" program actually working. It's a nice marketing gimmick, but I think it's more hype than anything else. Something like this is going to be far too good to be true in the real world. And besides, they are banking on very few people taking the time and expense of packaging and sending parts to them.

 

[gsxr]

I've seen/heard of only a very very very few actual, real-world examples of this vaunted FCP "lifetime warranty" program actually working. It's a nice marketing gimmick, but I think it's more hype than anything else. Something like this is going to be far too good to be true in the real world. And besides, they are banking on very few people taking the time and expense of packaging and sending parts to them.

Yup! It's mostly marketing. However, this could work in your favor on the occasional part with a high failure rate, or wear items like brake pads (if you burn through brakes frequently - Jono track days, mail carriers, Uber/Lyft driver, yadda x3). I've never filed a warranty claim, but I also haven't purchased much from FCP.

 

[gerryvz]

mail carriers, Uber/Lyft driver,

I certainly hope no one is using their E500E or 400E420 as a rural mail route vehicle, nor as a ride-share car.

Ride-sharing is a very appropriate venue to accelerate the demise of those cockroach Priii (like jlaa drives!).

 

[jftu105]

Got the sportline registered and inspected. With insurance and a liscence plate, I took the beauty on roads and highways. Did not go too fast, up to about 65 or 70 only. The idling is very smooth and cruising is fun. The car stays straight with my DIY alignment.

The engine is a bit underpowered or it is me who do not drive with determination. I rarely rav up over 2000 rpm to shift, but this sportline calls for 3000 rpm rev to shift; otherwise, the minivan behind me was getting impatient.

Will drive the sportline and the E320 with my rebuilt headgasket for a few weeks. After that, I will decide which one to keep. Five cars (4 E320 94-5 and 1 300E 92) are too many to carry.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

The M103 needs to be revved to find any power. It starts waking up by 3000rpm, there isn't much low-end torque.

 

[gerryvz]

The M103 needs to be revved to find any power. It starts waking up by 3000rpm, there isn't much low-end torque.

Not too much different with the M104.

 

[jftu105]

Got the muffler welding done by a local welding shop. They did such a nice job. Originally, the previous owner had a new rear muffler and they just flanged the middle and rear mufflers together. It was not attached correctly and it leaked badly. The shop cut off the bad connection and welded a pipe in, beautifully done, for $66. Such a bargain.

I am getting more used to the shifting characterisitcs of the sportline, so that the granny behind me with an minivan won't get too impatient. Rev it up because it is a SPORTLINE! Now I go 2500 to 3000 rpm to shift!

With this muffler welding job, this restoration is officially complete. It is a nice car and I might put it up for sale depending on how I feel in a few weeks. Or it would be my E320, 1994 for sale, which I replaced the head gasket and the valve body rebuilt.

The good thing about this restoration is that I was able to use many parts I hoaded over the years.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Latest look! A plate I got while in Sweden.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Have been driving the sportline to get a better feel of it. The first gear start is so unnecessary at least for me. In order to keep up with the minivan in front of me, I had to rev up to 3000 RPM. I am not used to it. My E320 1994 actually accelerates easier, shifting at 2000 rpm and keeping up with the flow better. So far, I only barely hit 70 mph due to traffic. The sportline feels fast at 70 mph, perhaps due to its louder sports sound and louder wind noise.

I wonder if the overall gear ratio is a bit larger (engine to tire). At 65 mph, the engine rpm already near 3000. The E320 1994 seems to be rev lower at the same speed.

I am not used to pumping the gas pedal hard, driving more like a wimp. Time to man up!

When I pump the gas pedal hard, the shifting is too jumping. If I shift smoothly, the granny behind me is getting impatient.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

You are correct, the 1992 has slightly lower gearing, 2.87 axle ratio (in 185mm size).

The 93-up with M104 have taller gearing, 2.65 axle ratio (in 210mm size).

If the shifts are firm, try adjusting the vacuum modulator. If the shift RPM's are too high or low, tweak the Bowden cable.

 

[jftu105]

I think that the shifting is fine, perhaps a bit adjustment can make it better. It downshifts from 4 to 3 if I get below 40 mpg and push down the gas pedal. I typically back off the gas pedal to induce shifting if I push it hard. It easily revs up to 3000 rpm. With a larger gear ratio, this is probably normal as I am so used to E320. If I drive slowly, the shifting is fine.

I will do some bowden cable adjustment.

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Decided to tackle the last issue of the sportline: the central locking system. It does not work.
After some digging, the problem seems to be the pump and the front left actuator, both having issues.

Opened up the rear right seat and found the central locking pump module. It was covered by a soft sponge, but a large portion of the sponge itself was broen up into small pieces, almost like being chewed up by something disgusting. I vacuum them all off.

Did the electric checkup based on the repair instruction and realized that there is supply voltage. Yes, fuse C was burned. Replaced it. Now, checked control voltages from the front doors and the trunk. They were correct, returing 12V when the door is open and 0V as closed.

Put everything back in, and operate the lock, no action.

Removed the pump and opened it up. The pump was so hot. Did some lubrication of the pump motor. The pump is a simple centrifugal pump. If it rotates one way, it provides vacuum. It provides pressure if it rotates the other way.

Put everything back. Now, I see actions. But the pump does not stop. The front left door has no action, while the rest of them keep going up and down. If I activate the pump by closing the front left door, the rest of doors would open. If I open the front left door, the rest of them would close and the pump neves stop until it seized from overheating.

Finally, checked the vacuum lines. Use a syringe to draw vacuum or put up pressure. I am able to identify each vacuum line. All lines work except the line to the front left actuator. It does not maintain vacuum. Tried to block the vacuum line to the front left and see everything works. Nope!

So the plan is to open the front left door panel and find out what's going on with that actuator. I might want to practice it at a junkyard first. There is a local private junkyard with over 10 W124's, but it charges premium prices.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Now, I know what happened to the central locking system. The idiotic second owner who went insane to install a horrible looking speaker "upgrade" destroyed it.

The workers at the audio shop did not know how to put the door panel back properly. They then drove in a few screws to hold the panel, and one of the screw punctured into the lock actuator, causing the vacuum to leak. This set off a chain reaction. Because the vacuum lost, the door won't open or close properly at the front driver side, the central pump then kept pumping, eventually overheated and seized. Didn't the idiot realize that the central locking system stopped functioning after the idiotic speaker "upgrade"? Or the music was too loud to notice!!

Most MBs were destroyed by idiotic owners as such. Really disgusting!!!!

I patched the hole and will test it after the exposy is cured.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

OK, the central locking system is working properly now. Put the front left actuator back and reassembled the central pump module to make sure no leaking.

Finally, connect all vacuum lines and electric connectors. Operate the lock with the key. Yap, it closes and opens all doors in less than 3 seconds and the pump stops right after.

Now the headache is to put the door panel back with that horrible looking "upgraded" speaker.

Nobody in his right mind will think that it is an upgrade!

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

The cumulative damage & butchery done to otherwise nice MBs over the years by rushed aftermarket stereo “installers” is uncountable. Particularly the stereo wiring harnesses in the center console.

Later owners are saddled with the job of cleaning it all up.

 

[jftu105]

Yap, wiping the mess after those butchery jobs is highly unpleasent. Finally, finished the installing of the door panel. One clip, right at the arm rest broke. That was why they could not fit it back tightly and drove in long srews to hold it, which punctured the lock actuator.

Used my favorite exposy steel (you cut a piece off a roll and kneed it evenly) to rebuild the holding clip. Worked and it cured quickly in 20 minutes.

I could not put back the actuator cover as it needs to go all the way up. Should not matter. Put the cover in the trunk.

I am also used to driving it. I get over 1st gear quickly. Then accelerate with 2nd gear and 3rd gear, before shifting it to 4th gear for cruising. 60 jobs, big and small. Whew!

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

OK, I broke down and bought a Milwaukee 2861-20 with battery off eBay for $162 including shipping to celebrate Father's day for myself. The seller said that he used it only once for a small job. I have a charger for my Milwaukee impact driver. With this tool, I will work on the steering idling bushing of one of my E320. I will be able to get tires off faster too. Will keep it in the car for emergency.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I started to enjoy driving the sportline. I think that it is very close to its new condition. Everything works. I only drive it over weekends. All my friends like it. Of course they do because it is the first Mercedes I drive with a nice paint. In the parking lot of the tennis court, among Lexus, newer Mercedes, BMW, Honda, the sportline stands out.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I just can't let an unfinished business unfinished.

Order a thin Yamaha 19mm wrench which can go in between the flexible disk and the transmission mount nut to loosen it. NO! Did not work. The leverage is too short and the nut was too tight. After over two hours of frustration, finally decided to file down my precious snapon offset tool. I can get another one off eBay for about $23. File and file, and check and check, finally the wrench is thin enough. Spray some lubricant and push it through and finally it landed on the top nut of the transmission mount. It was tight and I used triple leverage and finally it was loosened. What happened next, I could not believe. The mount won't come off even when the nut was off. How could this be? Time to do the brute force. Hammer a wedge to knock it off. Nope. After many hammering, finally, it was a bit loose and then it came out. The center bolt was rusty and it rust weld to the transmission holding plate. Of course, an MB original because the previous owners only spent money on speakers.

While I got the transmission mount off, I thought I would get the O2 sensor off too. Nope. My O2 sensor socket, made in Taiwan, was not good enough, as it opens up and twisted off the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor similarly is welded to the exhaust pipe.

Give up on the O2 sensor and put a new, Conteco, transmission mount in and call it a day.

I hate the job when I have to be on the floor with 12 inch space to maneuver.

O2 sensor can wait. It works but perhaps could use a new one to get engine even more alive. Any suggestions?

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I swear that the transmission mount made some difference in shifting. It is much crispier and I now, first time ever, come out of the block, at the signal, leaving other cars in the dust. Shifting at nearly 3000 rpm and bang, bang, I am in the 40s (in the city). I guess that I am keeping this sportline!

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I measured the size of my O2 sensor offset socket, made in Taiwan, which was used many times in the past for O2 sensors removal and installation without issues. This is a 22 mm offset socket. To my surprise, the size is 22.70mm, less the 6% larger than 22 mm. This is of course within the specification. 7/8" and 22 mm are often considered as the same, but 7/8" is 22.22 mm. This 22 mm socket is well over 7/8". I put a new Bosch O2 sensor in to see the clearance. It is huge. No wonder, it was twisted off and slightly rounded the old O2 sensor on the sportline. I did some modification by gluing pieces of stainless plate of 0.2 mm thickness to the socket. Now, the socket is very close to 22 mm. It fits the O2 sensor snugly. Will try to remove the old, original O2 sensor from 1992 (still working just fine) when I feel like to.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

Jtfu,

This is the car I’m driving today. We are going for a day trip up in the Bavarian mountains near the Czech border.

I thought of you. The car belongs to a friend of mine, and has 253,800 km on it.

 

[jftu105]

Wow, the car is 159000 miles young and is gorgeous. The sportline tag is fresher than mine. And it is a coupe! Even more rare! The seats are interesting, but my black leather seats are fancier.

I will try to do the O2 sensor with the modified (and improved) O2 socket so that I can complete my overhaul of my sportline.

jftu105

 

[TimL]

Jtfu,

This is the car I’m driving today. We are going for a day trip up in the Bavarian mountains near the Czech border.

I thought of you. The car belongs to a friend of mine, and has 253,800 km on it.

Seats look like they are in amazing condition. Enjoy Bayern

 

[gsxr]

...I did some modification by gluing pieces of stainless plate of 0.2 mm thickness to the socket. Now, the socket is very close to 22 mm. It fits the O2 sensor snugly. Will try to remove the old, original O2 sensor from 1992 (still working just fine) when I feel like to.

Soak the old O2 sensor with Kroil, or your favorite penetrant, for a long time before removal. As in, douse it and let it soak overnight, and maybe repeat that a few days in row. This can help break loose sensors which are otherwise corroded in place. If anything goes wrong, you'll have to drop the exhaust to remove the darn thing (not fun with a lift, worse without). I wouldn't expect a big difference with a new O2 but if it's old, it is a good idea to replace it. There is usually a date code marked on the old one, but it may not be legible.

 

[jftu105]

Went to a junk yard today. I had never been to this place until today. They are a combination of u-pull and they-pull, very well organized. You pay a lot more if you ask them to pull the part. They actually charge less than LKQ for many parts. The front bumper is $52 and fender is $35. I went for a 1992 300E wagon, but its interior was bad, with a heavy molding smell. However, I found a black 1995 E300, diesel with nice interior (in tan color, not black) and exterier. Found a rear door ashtray and the door light. Was able to take down the driver fender as a spare. I paid $100 in another yard. For $35, I will keep it as a spare. I could not take the passenger side off because the door could not be opened fully due to another car next to it. Cannot get the front bumper either because the car is sitting on the ground, not above the ground. The yard owner told me that they just got the car and it is not yet set it up. Will return to get the front bumper and some other parts.

Also got an MB logo for the transmission shift knob. Spray painted the ashtray to black (from tan).

With the ashtray, door light, and shift knob logo installed, I actually completed all the repair and restoration items I listed. The O2 sensor works fine and I won't change it for now.

Mission accomplished, totally! Anyone wants to buy it? I am joking. I will enjoy driving it.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Got the Milwaukee today. It is quite heavy, to my surprise. Tried out on my tire and the bolt was off in no time. Now, I am looking for a nail to hit since I get the hammer.

jftu105