jftu105 300E Sportline Project

[jftu105]

The first nail I would like to hit with the Milwaukee is the differential drain and fill plugs. Are these good candidates for the milwaukee "hammer"? Last time, I tried to loosen the fill plug with a breaker bar and extension. It did not budge. The allen bolt wrench I had was not from a great brand and I did not want the risk to round it.

Any tips? I know I should try the fill plug first before the drain plug so that I won't be left with a differential without ways to refill. Any recommendation for the allen bolt wrench?

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Got a nice Bondhus 14 mm long allen wrench ($20, USA Made) to do the differential fluid job. With this nice tool, the job was not too bad. Two plugs only. Also got a pumping tool to pump gear oil directly from the gallon container into the differential housing. The old fluid was dirty but not awefully dirty. The quantity was fine. Since the job was quite straight forward with the nice tool, I went ahead to do two more cars. They all went without issues. The fluid of the third car, 1995 E320, was still clean but felt a bit thin. The 1992 sportline was a bit low in quantity. All good now.

With a heavy heart, I put my 1994 E320 which head gasket was replaced on craigslist. Here is the link. I am keeping the sportline. It is too much to keep five MBs.

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/d/cary-1994-mercedes-e-miles-excellent/6918149840.html

jftu105

 

[TerryA]

Your E320 sounds and looks like a nice DD for someone in the market for one. Price seems fair to me.

Good Luck w/ the Sale

 

[jftu105]

As I said that I put my E320 on craigslist with a heavy heart. I bought this car for $1500 with a blown head gasket and a 2-3 transmission flare. I took a pity of the seller and bought it off his hand. After driving it for nearly four years, dealing with whatever consequences due to the oil in coolant (many scares of bursted hoses), and finally, a real engine crisis (damaged engine head due to corrosion) when the exhaust was in the coolant, which was just water.

I was going to give up on the car and bought a 1995 E320 with 108000 miles to replace it. But, then with the encouragement of this board, in particular gsxr and Gerry and his detailed head gasket writeup, I did the head gasket replacement with a rebuilt engine head.

Since then, the car is near 100% especially after I figured out the lean condition via Hfmscan.

I have received three email responses so far. One of them decided not to check it out because the wife said "No!" due to the experience with a 1996 Diesel. The other two apparantly were spams.

I did not put down a price of $2000 or lower, trying hard to get rid of my E320. I am reluctant to sell it. Now, craigslist charges $5.00 to list and it will only last for one month. If it is not sold, I am perfectly OK to keep it. I probably just take my 1995 E320 off the insurance and surrender the liscence plate.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Gave it another try to see if I can get the O2 sensor off with my improved socket. Nope! Call the local shop for a quote. They want 1 to 1.5 hours for the labor, which is $110 to $165. I am going to invest on a snapon O2 sensor tool to see if I can get it off. I will use a torch if I need to.

Or just let it go until the O2 dies. It is still fine for now.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I think that another way of removing this O2 sensor is to use non-flare socket for better grip. It will need to unplug the wire and then run the plug through the socket. I don't want to cut the wire. Of course, penetration oil, lots of them, soaking for a long time.

jftu105

 

[northNH]

Try ATF/acetone 50/50...

 

[jftu105]

Well, gave it one more try with a 22 mm wrench, 12 points and other tools, even torch. Nope!!! The O2 sensor is now badly rounded. I guess that the only way will be to destroy it when the time comes. It still works fine. So, when the judgement day comes, so be it.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Spent three hours today with another attempt to remove the O2 sensor. Nope!!!

With a chisel and a hammer, I emulated an impact wrench. I hit it a few hundred times, but no sign of moving. I heated the exhausted pipe to red hot and soaked it with liquid wrench. Nothing. I used a Korean made magic wrench, a supposely better pipe wrench than a regular pipe wrench, Nothing. I then banged it really hard. Nothing!

The O2 sensor now looks so ugly and the upper shell is loose. The hexgon is gone and chewed up with all the hammering and binding. But the sensor seems to be working just fine with all that impact. I cannot believe how an O2 sensor can be this tight.

I think that I need to take it to a muffler shop and ask them to take down the entire exhaust system to remove the O2 sensor and to destroy it to pay for its sin.

How could it be so tight? Did the factory of MB use anti-seize during assuembly? It is the original sensor from 1992. After 27 years, anti-seize became a-tight-seize.

jftu105

 

[ace10]

Righty-tighty, lefty loosey?

 

[Dunnik]

Just got caught up with this thread, you deserve enormous credit jftu105 for rescuing that forlorn W124, especially considering the price you paid and all the hard work you've put in. Not so forlorn now!

The punctured vacuum line in your door is a major reason why I've decided to refurb/restomod the existing system in my car, rather than take the chance an audio installer will butcher the insides. Few Mercedes seem to be immune to the "add rims, big sound, ignore maintenance" low point in the depreciation curve.

 

[jftu105]

Yes, it could be confusing when you lie on the ground, looking up, with an O2 sensor pointing upward. When I look down on a bolt, clockwise is tightening. When I look up at the same bolt, it would be counter-clockwise to me for loosening.

Even if I messed up with righty and lefty thing, we are talking about not budging at all, either direction. In fact, I also hammered the other direction, hoping a reversing torque would help to loosen it. Nope. The O2 sensor, after 27 years, is welded solidly to its seat.

Probably the only way is to remove the exhaust pipe (as suggested by gsxr). Torch it red hot and then remove it by a big pipe wrench, something a muffler shop can do.

jftu105

 

[Stevester 500E]

Yes, it could be confusing when you lie on the ground, looking up, with an O2 sensor pointing upward. When I look down on a bolt, clockwise is tightening. When I look up at the same bolt, it would be counter-clockwise to me for loosening.

Even if I messed up with righty and lefty thing, we are talking about not budging at all, either direction. In fact, I also hammered the other direction, hoping a reversing torque would help to loosen it. Nope. The O2 sensor, after 27 years, is welded solidly to its seat.

Probably the only way is to remove the exhaust pipe (as suggested by gsxr). Torch it red hot and then remove it by a big pipe wrench, something a muffler shop can do.

jftu105

or get a new or in good used condition pipe.

 

[jftu105]

Actually, this is a good idea. If I go to a junkyard and cut a section of the pipe off with the O2 sensor and ask a muffler shop to weld it in, it might be easier and cheaper.

jftu105

 

[northNH]

I wonder why it would’t be easier to leave the mess you’ve created alone, and through a new appropriately located proximate hole weld in a fresh bung for a virgin sensor?

 

[jftu105]

Got stranded yesterday with the sportline. The car started and ran fine. I made a trip about 15 miles, through highway. No problem. An hour later, I made another trip for another 15 miles also through highway. During driving, the reserve light came on and I set the tripdometer to zero. Upon arrival, I noticed that the idling was rough, with fast shaking. I was late for my pickelball game so I just parked the car. Nearly three hours later, I came out and started the car. No shaking and everything was normal. However, after driving it for about 4 miles, I noticed that the engine was not responding to the gas pedal and the car was gradually slowing down to crowling. Luckily, I was close to the end of a narrow road and managed to pull to the side, with the blinker on. I restarted the engine. It started properly but won't respond to the gas pedal, barely going over 1000 rpm. I pumped the gas pedal and the engine would rev up sometimes but with significant delay. I slowly drove the car to a nearby building with an empty front parking lot and parked the car there.

Now, here is the problem. I don't own a cell phone. Never had one and do not want one. Looking around, I did not see anybody. It was about 6pm. I suspected that the problem was with the fuel delivery system, likely fuel pump. The filter is new. I did not have any tool in the trunk, all in my 1994 E320.

Luckily, I saw a police car parked not too far. I ran over and asked the police officer to call roadside service for me. The police office was super helpful and the truck would meet me in 50 minutes after the arrangement. The towing was covered by the insurance.

While waiting, I started the car many times and each time it started without issues. However, the engine was not responsive and the idling speed would dip very low, but not stalling. I pumped the gas pedal again and again. A few times, I was able to get the engine to reve at 3000 rpm and stayed there for 20 to 30 seconds. Then it came down even though my foot was still on the pedal.

Finally, the towing truck arrived. The driver brought down the flatbed and he drove the car up to the flatbed. He noticed the rough engine shaking. The police officer was still around on the other side of road. So, I thanked him when the truck drove by with me in it. The truck driver was a smoker and it had a strong cigerette smell.

Five miles later, I arrived home and the truck driver rolled down the car. I started it and the engine was smooth. I drove it straight to the garage without issues.

Today, I added 3.5 gallons of premium. When I was stranded, I added three bottle of fuel injector cleaners as fuel (I happened to have 10 bottles of those in the trunk), thinking it would help with the low fuel situation. I should still have at least 2 liters of fuel in the tank.

I pulled the car out and it started normally. I poured in the 3.5 gallons and drove around the neighborhood. No problem.

I won't taking it for a longer ride until I figure out what happened. M103 is new to me.

Any comments?

Thanks.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

Sure sounds like fuel delivery... if not fuel pump, the strainer inside the fuel tank may have the lower portion of the screen plugged, restricting fuel delivery when the level gets around reserve? That's all I can think of offhand.

 

[captruff]

FWIW, I have experienced similar with the M102 8 valve and it was the fuel pump relay.

Jeff

 

[jftu105]

Sure sounds like fuel delivery... if not fuel pump, the strainer inside the fuel tank may have the lower portion of the screen plugged, restricting fuel delivery when the level gets around reserve? That's all I can think of offhand.

Good call, Dave!!! (as always).

I think that the clogged strainer is probably the most likely cause. First, it did not happen until the fuel tank was in reserve. Second, the engine ran smoothly after it was lowered from the towing truck. Think about it. The car had to climb a steep slope on to the truck flatbed and again to roll down. During the tilting, the fuel can get over the clogged strainer and fill up the fuel filter. Now, I added 3.5 gallons and the car is running normally.

I will be careful and keep the car filled with fuel when I drive it. We will see. The fact that this car sat for 18 months at a very low level of fuel probably caused the clogging.

I looked up the maintainence of the strainer. It is not a hard job but anything dealing with gasoline is not pleasent. I will pay to get the job done. Now, I have two to-do jobs, the O2 sensor and this strainer thing.

Thanks a lot for all the comments.

jftu105

 

[Stevester 500E]

I had a bit different issue, but it is worth mentioning. 1993 190e Sportline. Car was hard to start, but it would crank and start, but if I gave it gas, it would die. But if I let the car warm up on its own, then the car was fine. I thought it was the idle control valve. It ended up being a blown fuse at the OVP. Put in a new fuse and car started right up and was ready to drive immediately.

Probably not your issue, but it is always good to have this bit of knowledge, so when when that fuse blows, you know where to look.
By the way, I think this the OVP fuse may blow when the trying to jump a car and you hook up the battery cables reversed.....
BTW, I have never done that....a friend of a friend said that can happen....

 

[gerryvz]

The characteristic of the issue happening when the tank is low is indeed telling, and I think GSXR is correct. Not a bad idea to check/replace your FPR as captruff mentioned -- it could probably use a refresh/replace at this age, particularly if it is original.

You may have stirred up some crud in the tank, so replacing your fuel filter (again) is also a good idea, and de rigueur if you remove/clean the fuel tank.

 

[jftu105]

Well, I have learned that problems usually are not as easy as thought.

This morning I drove the car again and filled up the tank. Then I drove it to a local gym, 2 miles away. Before reaching the destination, it happened again.

Luckily, I was right next to a gas station, so I pulled in. The car behind got so impatient and he honked me loud. What's the matter with people? A few seconds of delay and he had to yell!

Anyway, the car won't rev above 1000 rpm. It is good enough to drive around the parking lot but not for the road. This time, I figured that the fuel delivery system likely is not a problem. It starts properly and idles smoothly every single time. I unplugged the EGR and sealed the vacuum. Nope!

Then, I decided to unplug the computer control module and plug it back in again.

It seems to do the trick. I was able to drive to the destination and drove back without issues.

It seems to me that the engine control does not receive gas pedal signal so that it does not order the fuel injector to inject fuel accordingly. Perhaps a bad connection. I am going to clean up all the contacts to see and go from there. Will check OVP too and fuel pump relay (once I locate it).

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

The problem is not as simple. I went ahead and cleaned up all the contacts. Drove it around the neighborhood and it happened again. It started every time but it won't rev over 1000 rpm. The car barely move. I drove slowly back to my drive way.

I took the air filter off and rev the engine by hand. It won't go up. I then push down the float and with a loud crack, the engine died. I restarted it and this time it revs up. Still not as responsive. I can hear the fuel injector noise.

I am going to open up the distributor to see if there is any wear.

jftu105

 

[gsxr]

I keep forgetting this is a 1992 car with CIS-E injection. Is there a test port to measure fuel pressure as on the later cars with HFM injection?

 

[gerryvz]

I keep forgetting this is a 1992 car with CIS-E injection. Is there a test port to measure fuel pressure as on the later cars with HFM injection?

Yes.

 

[jftu105]

I looked it up and it seems that the tubing is a lot more complicated for M103 to test the fuel pressure. When I get time (not now), I will first check if there is voltage to the fuel pumps and if the fuel pumps are running. If no voltage, then the fuel pump relay might be defective.

If the fuel pumps are not spinning, I will take them off and replace them.

Old Mercedes are never boring. The starter of my 1994 E320 recently died and I had to replaced it with a remanufactured one.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Have not done much to fix the problem. Located the fuel pump relay. It is an MAS relay, not an individual fuel pump relay. According to the wiring diagram, it is pin#1 (12V) and pin#2. Jumped it and I heard a click in front of the engine, underneath the air filter.

I got down to the fuel pump area, but I did not hear fuel pump running. I don't think fuel pump runs all the time. After jumping, things seem to be normal. Hope that it is just the relay. Will get one from eBay for $30 if indeed it is the problem. A new one would cost over $250.

The problem appears to be this way. It would run fine for about 2-3 miles and then the same symptom again. Temperature does not seem to be a factor. Then for no reason, it would be good again, for 2-3 miles. My theory is that the relay is not consistent. Sometimes, it engages and sometimes it does not. Once it engages, fuel pumps fill up the filter and pressurize the fuel delivery system. Once this amount of fuel is exhausted, it won't run properly again. However, I could not figure out why it won't just stop entirely. It always starts and continues to run, despite no power.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Was out for a long trip and did not drive or work on this car. Came back and tried to start the car. It started without issues. Drove it around the block for 2-3 miles, then the same symptom appears.

Today, I finally got down under the car. Remove the fuel pump cover. Had my daughter to turn the key on and off. When the key was first turned on, I can hear the fuel pumps running for a few seconds, then they stopped. I tried to identify if both pumps are running and they appeared to be both running.

I started the car and got under again. However, it is too noisy to hear if the pumps are running. I used the stethoscope but really could not distinguish. The output hose does shift when the pump was turned out.

Took a test drive again. Same thing, after 2-3 miles, the engine would hicupp again, unable to rev up and the car cannot move, but the engine would keep running without stopping. I just could not raise the RPM when I hit the gas pedal.

Shut the engine off and turned the key on and off over 10 times. I could hear the fuel pumps ran and stopped. After that, I was able to drive the car again.

For this car, it is not easy to check the fuel pressure, unlike 1994-5.

Any thought? Thanks!!!

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I think that I fixed the problem. Again, I tried it out and the symptoms were the same. After the symptom occured, I stopped the car and turned the key on and off over 30 times. I figured if this was the problem, then the brief run of the fuel pump for 30 times must be able to provide sufficent fuel. The problem was still there. I parked the car for a few hours while doing more research.

After that I started the car again and it was normal. I then use my stethoscope to check the fuel pump. This time, I could hear distintively that both pumps were running and not noisy either.

With that, I believe the fuel system was fine because I could idle the engine indefinitely.

Now, the obvious culprit could be the ignition system and number one, of course, would be the distributor cap and rotor. This is my first car with 103 engine. With my 1994-5, E320, I don't have a distributor cap.

Opened it up and I could tell apparent worn marks at the contacts. Cleaned up all the contacts and put everything back. Now, the engine runs fine. Test drove it for over 8 miles and no problem at all. Before that, it would be about 1-3 miles when the symptom appeared.

I will order a new set of distributor cap/rotor. FCP is showing a Bosch cap for $68 and rotor for $25. Beru's are cheaper, while the MB orignal is 3x price.

I think I will just go with Bosch.

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

Jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I am new to this distributor cap problem because my 94-95 do not have distributors.

I understand that the rotor and the distributor do not make direct contact. The high voltage jumped through the gap. I read on this forum that the oxidation of the contact does not matter too much. However, cleaning up the distributor cap did cure the problem I had. Now, the symptom is reversed. After staring up, within a few minutes, the cut-out symptom will occur but then it would be fine and I can drive for a long distance without issues. Since there is no contact, only the contact oxidation due to sparks could cause problems. Without contact, there would be no wear, other than oxidation due to arcing. Temperature seems to play an important role on how an old distributor would behave.

I ended up buying BERU instead of Bosch as BERU was recommended on this forum (better quality and lower price, can't beat that).

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Received the BERU distributor cap and rotor today. Both made in Germany and great prices too, total $71 from FCP.

All contacts are made of brass and the plastic is of high quality too. Really clean finish in the molding.

jftu105

 

[northNH]

Anyone know where in the US to get the Beru (not Bosch) cap for a M104 24V 3.0L?
A1041580102/Beru VK522S
TIA

 

[jftu105]

Took out the old distributor cap and rotor. They have Mercedes star marking on them, made by Bosch. I assume that they are original, lasting 136000 miles. The new set by BERU fit perfectly. I also ordered a new O-ring. The old one had hardened and broke readily when I removed it.

I will clean up the old set and keep them as a spare for emergency.

This remins me about DC motor control, brush versus digital commutator. Brushless DC motors win the day any time in my opinion. Modern engines hardly use the distributor cap anymore. My 94-95 Mercedes E320 do not. A 1999 Toyota Tercell still does.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

After the distributor cap change, took a 80-mile round trip to do grape picking, traveling between 70 to 85 mph. No problem! The sportline shines when the speed gets up really high.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I also seeked advice from the great H.D. and here is his reply. I suggest Gerry to invite H.D. to be a member of 500eboard. If I had obtained H.D.'s advice earlier, I could have found out the distributor cap issue sooner. H.D. has a unparallel logical diagnosis mind. jftu105

"I suggest to go on a test drive with the cold engine. When it gets to a temperature of ~50°C, disconnect the CIS-ECU (with ignition switched off!). Then continue the test drive.
If the engine speed can still not be raised to its full range and there is still a lack of power, check ignition first (especially distributor & coil).
If the engine behaves a lot better, focus on the Lambda control function chain components “o2 sensor → ECU → EHA“ first. There are very informative & not difficult to carry out simultaneous “o2 sensor voltage / EHA current / duty cycle / fuel pressure“ tests. I‘m currently too short of time for detailed procedures & result interpretations. Maybe you can ask the forum. There should be someone who is able to help you with these details.

H.D"

 

[jftu105]

One of my E320's, the prettiest one, was hit in a parking lot. The driver took off without leaving a note. I only noticed the damage the 2nd day. Contact the insurance and will get an estimate. Basically, the dirver side fender was snapped in by about one inch at the front. The headlight was damaged at its tap and the turn signal was partially cracked.

It must be a stupid SUV which backed into my car. It cleared just abov the bumper. The impact won't be quiet but the guy (or gal) chose to flee.

I am going to try out my paintless dent removal kit to remove this dent.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Fixed the car and deposited the check from the insurance company. The dent is there. Once I run into a car with the same color in the junk yard, I will replace the fender. It would look its old self again. Other than the dent, all fixed.

jftu105

 

[Jlaa]

Now, I know what happened to the central locking system. The idiotic second owner who went insane to install a horrible looking speaker "upgrade" destroyed it.

The workers at the audio shop did not know how to put the door panel back properly. They then drove in a few screws to hold the panel, and one of the screw punctured into the lock actuator, causing the vacuum to leak. This set off a chain reaction. Because the vacuum lost, the door won't open or close properly at the front driver side, the central pump then kept pumping, eventually overheated and seized. Didn't the idiot realize that the central locking system stopped functioning after the idiotic speaker "upgrade"? Or the music was too loud to notice!!

Most MBs were destroyed by idiotic owners as such. Really disgusting!!!!

@jftu105 ! Just catching up on this thread --- what a huge undertaking you have completed and what a sense of accomplishment you must now have!

I knew I had seen those pictures of that horrid stereo system somewhere before! Did your car come from NJ before it made its way to NC? See this thread and the pictures of the door panels ---- it looks the same? (and it is a sportline)

Stereo Upgrades, W124, moderate budget - MBWorld.org Forums (circa 20008 --- you can even see a picture of the previous owner who butchered the door lock vacuum lines in the last picture) (fwiw - this link might look familiar to @gsxr) [EDIT - pictures from that thread pasted below]



If you follow the thread, the first owner seems to have had a business interest in this: Custom Car Stereo and Audio Systems, window tint, wheels and more!
And the car is featured in the gallery: 1992 Benz E-300 SportLine

Not sure if this is the same car, but sure looks like it....

 

[jftu105]

I think that it is the same car. The 2nd (or 3rd) did move from New Jersey to NC. He was the one putting in those horrible speakers. I am still looking for correct door panels to restore it. The speaker cover fell off now.

I actually talked to this 2nd owner over the phone as I found receipts in the document folder.

At the end, it is a nice car as it is now, after nearly 70 different repairs, big and small jobs.

By the way, regarding the shining AMG wheels in the pictures, I have them, still in the bad tires. I have not gotten around to put in new tires and put them back to the car.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

A great thinker I am not. H.D. had pointed me to the distributor cap/ignition coil and I only did the distributor cap. I was not stranded but today during driving, back from a short trip, in a hot day, I noticed that the engine did not rev up again, not as bad as before. I recalled, after I cleaned up the old cap, before replacing it a new Beru, I also had similar experience two times. Now of course, it got to be the ignition coil. Located it, cleaned up the contacts, and measured the resistances, all within spec. There were signs of oxidation. I guess the contacts become bad when the temperature is high.

So, the lesson here is: if you have to deal with the cap, go all the way to check the entire ignition loop, or at least the ignition coil too.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

I thought my stalling problem was over, but it came back again. I did not hasitate this time and ordered a new coil. Put it in and I noticed a totally different car performance. I guess that the source of the problem was always the coil. The distributor was secondary. With the old coil, even the engine was running fine, it did not accelerate well from stationary and the shifting was spotty. Now, with the new coil, the shifting is what it should be. I no longer need to push it and pull it back to shift. I just press it down moderately and the car goes through the gears up to the cruising speed.

jftu105

 

[gerryvz]

Yep, coils are very often overlooked and most cars are still running on their two original coils. MUST CHANGE ITEM.

 

[Seangbadee]

I had the same problem with my 1991 300E. Changed the coils and the stalling was gone. I had a brand new car after that. Sweet and responsive (a little slow at take -off). I adjusted the Bowden cable and the response and change over points improved. Got a little more power out of the lower gears.

 

[jftu105]

Finally, got the last puzzle settled. As I stated before, the O2 sensor of the sportline was rust-welded in. I tried every way and it simply won't budge. The sensor was badly rounded.

Finally, I decided to seek professional help. Took it to the muffler shop (actually a welding shop which also does mufflers) which did the muffler for me at a very reasonalbe price.

I watched the technician from far to see how he got it off. He lowered down the exhaust system to gain more room (I did not, too much work). I measured the O2 sensor signal and it was damaged (won't gove over 0.5 and below 0.4V). Therefore, I told the technician that he could cut the wire to allow for a six-point wrench. I saw him put on a wrench and attached a long pipe. And then, he was checking and looking again. DID NOT WORK! No wonder I could not move it even a tiny bit.

Then, I asked the owner to check on the plan B. It turned out that the technician decided to cut the head of the O2 sensor off and weld a nut to it. See the attached picture. After that, he finally got it off after 40 shop minutes.

I already have a new O2 sensor spliced and ready to put in. I had to climb up the lift to hook up the new O2 sensor. After that, I got my car back with a working O2 sensor. The total cost $64! What a bargan!!!

I asked for the NAUGHTY O2 sensor as a momento. I examined the threads and they looked fine, not too rusty. I wondered how it was stuck so tightly.

With the new O2 sensor, new distributor, new ignition coil and new spark plugs, the engine finally is running right and it has a light feeling when I accelerate.

In fact, I was trying the acceleration too happily. When I turned from a major road to a lighter road, I noticed two police cars and a speed measurement meter. I noticed that I was at 44 mpg and I slowed down to 37 mpg. After I passed the police cars, one of them followed me and turned the warning light on.

I pulled over and the lady police (very good smile) told me that it was a school zone and the speed limit was 25 mpg from 8:45 to 9:45 and I was at 44 mpg. It was 9:30 when I drove pass it. I was kicking myself. I told the officer that I did not see the sign and I did slow down. She took my driver liscence and after nearly 3 minutes, she came back and gave my liscence back. Just warning, she said. And I told her that I would do 25 mpg all day long when I passed that section of the road. Soon after, another car was pulled over and the guy police was having an animated conversation with the lady driver....

So, the car is good now and I am on probation. My last speeding ticket was 1996. And the lady police does have a nice smile.

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

Later in the afternoon, I measured the O2 signal during driving and it was fluctuating fast, although the voltage rarely got over 0.7V. I did the duty cycle adjustment according to the nice writeup of H.D.. It now fluctuates between 0.7 and 0.1 V. I would like to see 0.8V, but OK for now. Will let the engine run for awhile and may be the ECU will do some adaptation, as that of E320.

Now, only if I can find nice black front door panels to get rid of the distasteful speakers the previous owner butchered in....

jftu105

 

[jftu105]

A 1992 300E came into a local yard. It had a front end collision, but the pictures show a clean interior. Decided to get the front door panel to restore the horrendous mods by the PO. Arrived at the yard while it was raining, not big but constantly. Got to the car and it has 333114 miles on the meter. However, this 1992 would continue to run if not for the collision. The interior is clean and tight. The driver sider door pannel is in great original shape, even after 27 years and 333114 miles. This is the legendary MB quality which is no more. The passenger side, however, was damaged by unqualified repair.s Somebody took the panel off likely to change the window regulator but they broke the taps and had to use screws to hold it back. Therefore, got one panel only plus two speakers. The color is not black but I might only need to use the lower portion and the spray paint might just work. Will see how it goes. This is would be my last leg in the restoration of this 1992 sportline.

jftu105

 

[Seangbadee]

Which scrap yard is this car in?

 

[jftu105]

LKQ Greensboro

 

[Seangbadee]

Thanks

 

[jftu105]

With this Chinese virus imposed break, I did some car maintenance. I charged the AC of each of cars. When I did the charge with the 1992 300E sportline, nothing was out of ordinary. AC was still cold but could use a very minor recharge. The car was in idling for about 10 minutes and suddenly, the engine stopped.

I could not get it restarted again. After many crankings, I could even smell some fuel. It got to be electrical. Got my Lisle spark tool, which is a tiny pen that you place over a spark plug wire and you can verify the sparks.

Had my daughter crank the engine and I first checked the coil wire. I see nice even sparks in rapid rate. Then I check cylinder #1, #2, etc. I saw sparks but quite infrequent and seemly lots of misfire.

It cannot be the distributor. It was replaced with a new BERU last Sept 6, according to my records. It was made in Germany, as printed on the distributor. Check the OVP fuses. No problems. Checked the sparks again. Had to be the distributor.

Took it out. You can see it in the pictures. The center tap, which a spring-loaded graphite pin, was damaged. The surrounding material melted and the graphite pin was broken and fell off. The spring was snapped in and I pulled it out.

It only lasted a few thousand miles, likely less than 2000 miles. I only drove it on weekends.

So much for the Germany quality. The distributor and the rotor, both BERU, were replaced at the same time, Sept 6, 2019, and I could not see where I might have screwed up. They fit snuggly.

Anyway, went to FCP and ordered a replacement, the same BERU and will claim the lifetime replacement. Quite disappointed.

Any suggestion on the possible mistake I made? I did not throw away the original distributor which had some misfiring to get me stranded (see my earlier posts), but it might be more or less due to the coil. The coil was later replaced too. Put in the old one and the engine fired right up with the sweet engine sound.

jftu105