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OWNER e500.org (E500 Limited)
- Thread starter e500.org
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18" Neez?
Yup, 18" NEEZ installed, Michelin PS4 245/40/18 and 275/35/18 setup, alloys are same all around, I think 9.0J all around, we did not measure them but it is a square setup.
Car rides quite nice, certainly stiffer than the original 17" EVOs, but handles much better. You certainly feel more from the road though due to the thinner tyre.
I think the rear needs to come down slightly (divided opinion though from 4 other E500E fans), I'll probably try SLS adjustment first and see if that makes any difference.
I've been offered an AMG E60 front anti roll bar from a friend - any difference vs. stock? What bushes do they take?
Cheers
Car rides quite nice, certainly stiffer than the original 17" EVOs, but handles much better. You certainly feel more from the road though due to the thinner tyre.
I think the rear needs to come down slightly (divided opinion though from 4 other E500E fans), I'll probably try SLS adjustment first and see if that makes any difference.
I've been offered an AMG E60 front anti roll bar from a friend - any difference vs. stock? What bushes do they take?
Cheers
Nice. Do you like the NEEZ?
Are these F 18x9 ET 26 with R 18x9.5 ET 28 with ball seat bolts or are these
F 18x8.5 ET 23 with R 18x9.5 ET 25 with cone seat bolts?
What tires are you running? How do they ride relative to 17" EVOs?
NEVER MIND --- I see you are running a square setup.
If they are all 18x9.0 ET 26, does this mean these all have ball seat bolts?
Hi - I have assumed 9.0J, we did not measure them but essentially that is approximate measurement having them size by side on the floor next to the EVOs which are 8.25J. The ET and width specs not stamped on the wheel, I can't remember the number stamped but they were all the same.
I don't know about the bolts but my original MB bolts worked fine with these wheels, without issue. The car these wheels came off was imported to the UAE from Japan over 5 years ago, by the look of the original bolts which came off that particular car we can conclude these wheels have probably been on the for quite a long time.
I really like the alloys TBH, pretty stock look and if I get on with the ride/look over time I will certainly have the wheels fully refurbished and diamond cut on the faces.
Ah, the width and offset is engraved on the inner lips like so. However if the wheel has previously been refinished, this may be filledin w/ paint/powder.
btw if you are using mb ball seat bolts, closely examine the orig neez bolts. They might be 14R with a shoulder for size 14 holes. Mb w124 bolts are sized for size 12 holes and use 12R ball seats. You can clean up orig neez bolts with a wire wheel.
Thanks for that dude - did not know this - will check next time a wheel is off. I do not know if they've been refurbished before, look good from 5m away but up close they need work so might be original.
From the one photo, it does look like the rear is a bit high. Can you post measurements from fender lip to wheel center? Stock should be a bit less than 14" up front, and a bit more than 14" in the rear. Note the fuel tank level when measuring, as full vs empty can change the rear number 1/4-1/2". See photo below. If the rear won't drop by adjusting the SLS, you'll need to swap in Limited rear springs, and/or cut a small amount off (try 1/4 coil) from either stock or Limited springs. If you want the rear below ~14" you'll almost certainly need to cut the springs. BT, DT...
It should reduce front body roll a little. Not a huge difference, but if your friend is giving you a decent deal, I'd jump on that. It uses the same 22mm outer bushings (124-323-51-85) and larger 30mm bushings from the R129 in the middle (129-323-01-85).
Attachments
Thanks dude, we ok with cutting springs on the forum ??? Lol
I don't like to, but I haven't yet found a suitable replacement spring that is slightly lower than the Limited spring.
This varies from car to car, sometimes the Limited springs will work fine, but on at least one 036, new Limited rear springs refused to drop the rear below 14-1/8" with a full tank of fuel and I was trying to get just a bit lower. Had no choice except to cut. If only removing ~1/4 coil there is minimal change to overall spring rate. You do not want to cut large amounts. Personally, I would NOT cut more than half-coil... if you need that much adjustment, find a different spring.
Doesn’t @e500.org have a ltd car already, and didn’t he just put new rear springs on it?
BTW @500.org, dude, glad to see, dude, you are adopting correct ‘Murican slang, dude.
Old springs still with me...they're going to get butchered if the SLS adjustment doesn't do the jobOOOPS, yeah, if it already has Limited rear springs... time to bring out the cutoff wheel (on the old springs, if available).
LOL! Yup they're new LTD springs on the rear, it would pain me to cut those but I still have the old rears so they may undergo surgery for stanceDoesn’t @e500.org have a ltd car already, and didn’t he just put new rear springs on it?
BTW @500.org, dude, glad to see, dude, you are adopting correct ‘Murican slang, dude.
Out of curiosity, when you put in the new LTD springs, did the rear of your car go up? (meaning were the old springs sagged a little)?
I also have a new pair of LTD rear springs but I have not installed them yet. I suspect my OE non-LTD springs, which are on the car, have already sagged a little.
Yup the rear did go up a little, noticable amount I'd say but still quite minimal overall.
Hi Bill,
I've got an E60 anti-roll bar on the front of my 500e. I'm not sure what new (if any) bushes were needed when it was fitted - but I think gsxr has already answered this point?
I think that the car now corners with very little roll. It barrels around corners with hardly any "lean" at all - or that's how I perceive it! But I should add that I also have Koni Yellows on the front, which makes it all a bit stiffer.
This might help.
In the below picture, I am comparing a 28mm NEEZ bolt to some other bolts.
Note the shoulder.
In the below picture, I am comparing an old 28mm NEEZ bolt to a NEW 35mm NEEZ bolt. Note that I later cleaned up the 28mm bolt with a wire wheel and now it looks like new.
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Happy new year to all the members from a rather cold and rainy Dubai! I hope 2022 brings us all more W124 E500E goodness, cars and parts!
I'm positive this car hasn't seen more water other than a car wash in years, I decided to brave it and take out a very clean E500 and make it a very dirty E500, at least cleaning it is a joy of ownership!
I'm positive this car hasn't seen more water other than a car wash in years, I decided to brave it and take out a very clean E500 and make it a very dirty E500, at least cleaning it is a joy of ownership!
Guys I have an issue with my E500. Driving it last night in ambient temperatures of around 20c or less I notice my car running hotter than normal, basically 100c. My E500 never ran hotter than 90c even in the summer, 50c ambient temperature.
Two observations, when I stopped, 1) engine bay very hot, viscous fan running but not roaring like it normally does when I revved up the car 2) two front cooling fans are not activated. I would expect them to be activated at the temperature the engine bay was. I did a quick check of fuses including the strip fuse, looks OK from visual inspection.
Welcome any thoughts and areas to check, I'm away from the car for 1.5 weeks due to travel but when I return I can begin to investigate the issue and get some parts ordered.
My initial thoughts are perhaps the fan clutch had given up ghost? I did not have time to look at the fan clutch and whether the fan could easily be stopped etc.
Many thanks in advance!
Two observations, when I stopped, 1) engine bay very hot, viscous fan running but not roaring like it normally does when I revved up the car 2) two front cooling fans are not activated. I would expect them to be activated at the temperature the engine bay was. I did a quick check of fuses including the strip fuse, looks OK from visual inspection.
Welcome any thoughts and areas to check, I'm away from the car for 1.5 weeks due to travel but when I return I can begin to investigate the issue and get some parts ordered.
My initial thoughts are perhaps the fan clutch had given up ghost? I did not have time to look at the fan clutch and whether the fan could easily be stopped etc.
Many thanks in advance!
The electric fans do not engage until 107°C unless you have a "cool harness" modification.
The mechanical fan engages (roars) based on AIR temp, not coolant temp. Below 20°C ambient, the clutch may not engage at 100°C coolant temps. The mechanical fan clutch does not "give up the ghost", at least not the OE Sachs/Horton clutches, and they are NLA now anyway. 95-100°C engine temps are not abnormal, and you could expend a lot of time and energy trying to make it run cooler.
There have been many, many detailed threads on this topic over the past 10+ years. Read all the old threads, everything you want to know has already been discussed in nauseating detail.
The mechanical fan engages (roars) based on AIR temp, not coolant temp. Below 20°C ambient, the clutch may not engage at 100°C coolant temps. The mechanical fan clutch does not "give up the ghost", at least not the OE Sachs/Horton clutches, and they are NLA now anyway. 95-100°C engine temps are not abnormal, and you could expend a lot of time and energy trying to make it run cooler.
There have been many, many detailed threads on this topic over the past 10+ years. Read all the old threads, everything you want to know has already been discussed in nauseating detail.
I think I found the culprit for slightly higher temp running…coolant tank is split at the top where the cap screws on, water bubbling out when warmed up … CHANGE YOUR COOLANT TANK ASAP! & cap. Amateur move by me running the original one still, I should know better! I hope this fixes the issue…..
Nice find! Note this issue *should* be picked up with a cold pressure test, which is always a good idea for cooling system diagnostics, and IMO is a good idea to pressure test every year or so (maybe every other oil change or something).
Please let us know if this solves the abnormal temps...
AC fans still not coming on when car fully warmed up - @gsxr Dave I note you mention 107C before they come on, however mine have come on at temperatures much below that, so I assume I have a cooling modification. Do you refer to the temperature sensor plug at the top of the engine - if so, that indeed on mine has been modified. I assume this is not related to the coolant pressure issue?
Correct... that will be a separate issue. The cut-in temp depends on the rating of the resistor added in parallel to the 2-pin temp sensor (aka "CoolHarness" modification). Generally this reduces it from 107C down to ±95C or so. If your engine isn't getting to the upper 90's, the fans may still not trigger. You don't need them on all the time anyway.
Thanks buddy, I think I may have found the issue, the fuse on an orange relay is blown, will replace the fuse tomorrow and see if it activates them again.Correct... that will be a separate issue. The cut-in temp depends on the rating of the resistor added in parallel to the 2-pin temp sensor (aka "CoolHarness" modification). Generally this reduces it from 107C down to ±95C or so. If your engine isn't getting to the upper 90's, the fans may still not trigger. You don't need them on all the time anyway.
I don’t have wiring diagram and can’t find it in WIS. It appears someone replaced a fuse on the blue relay in the past. I will probably replace them all tomorrow as preventative maintenance.
You can find the Electrical diagrams, 036 specific, here: 24 Electrical Troubleshooting
As well, for precautionary measures, it might be good to replace those aluminum fuses with copper ones, which are less susceptible to corrosion.
Thanks, much appreciated!
Bill, I’m on my 3rd coolant tank. I replaced a perfectly good brownish coolant tank when I first bought my car in 2004, a few years later I had to replace the new white coolant tank for the same reason as you. The NECK was LEAKING. It was very disappointing to say the least.
Now on my 3rd. So far it’s a winner
I have a feeling that the original brownish tank was of better construction and if I had left tha ugly part on the car it would still be functioning. Probably was a mistake but I actually threw it in the trash.
BUT still the nice new white plastic one looks great
Changed fuse on the relay, fans are now operating but seem low speed and coming on and off …. I think that’s normal? I did not like the look of the relay (some burn marks), new relay on the way to me.
Car still running hotter than normal around 100c in traffic, could that still be down to the system not being pressurised due to the leak on the coolant tank?
Will report back once that has been changed (new tank, hose, cap, grommet ordered). New bonnet insulation also ordered as mine is finished
Car still running hotter than normal around 100c in traffic, could that still be down to the system not being pressurised due to the leak on the coolant tank?
Will report back once that has been changed (new tank, hose, cap, grommet ordered). New bonnet insulation also ordered as mine is finished
Low speed turns on & off based on refrigerant pressure, on a warm day with AC running, this is normal.
If the system isn't pressurized, yes it may run slightly warmer. I think. You may want to replace the level sender in the reservoir at the same time (OE/OEM only) unless it is recent and can be swapped over.
If the system isn't pressurized, yes it may run slightly warmer. I think. You may want to replace the level sender in the reservoir at the same time (OE/OEM only) unless it is recent and can be swapped over.
I actually have a coolant level sensor in my parts stash, indeed that will be replaced at the same time 'whilst in there'...
Parts have arrived now, car will be going into the garage shortly for the following:
- replace radiator and hoses
- replace coolant reservoir and sensor
- flush coolant
- replace Ariel unit (had a new one in storage for quite a while)
- replace fuel filter and fuel pump assembly rubber hangers
- replace thermostat and short hose
- SLS adjustment rod replacement and to attempt to lower the rear suspension, far too high at the moment with 1 nib spring pads
- replace bonnet insulation
I received a new MB aux fan resister yesterday from Europe but I’ll install that myself before the car goes
Once all done the car should be ready for the brutal upcoming summer
Finally the car will undergo a routine check over for the usual wear items
I also have big brake kit but unsure if I will install it onto my car as I was thinking of going back to stock…
- replace radiator and hoses
- replace coolant reservoir and sensor
- flush coolant
- replace Ariel unit (had a new one in storage for quite a while)
- replace fuel filter and fuel pump assembly rubber hangers
- replace thermostat and short hose
- SLS adjustment rod replacement and to attempt to lower the rear suspension, far too high at the moment with 1 nib spring pads
- replace bonnet insulation
I received a new MB aux fan resister yesterday from Europe but I’ll install that myself before the car goes
Once all done the car should be ready for the brutal upcoming summer
Finally the car will undergo a routine check over for the usual wear items
I also have big brake kit but unsure if I will install it onto my car as I was thinking of going back to stock…
Aux fan relay now replaced with a brand new MB one and the aux fans are now running perfectly. Temp fully warmed up is just above 80c in traffic idling, which was pretty much where the car was before this happened.
Radiator still needs replacement due to the leak at the top, same goes for the coolant reservoir as it’s also cracked, so ultimately that should get the cooling system operating optimally.
Radiator still needs replacement due to the leak at the top, same goes for the coolant reservoir as it’s also cracked, so ultimately that should get the cooling system operating optimally.
Guys some advice needed please
The thermostat in the car was apparently a different size to the new part in terms of length (I can’t remember if new is shorter or longer), I used the part number from EPC, A1192000015
I’ve been told existing thermostat is fine by testing so they’ve left it in for now as I was worried to install the wrong part. Looks brand new upon removal.
Could someone confirm the correct thermostat for 1994 E500?
The thermostat in the car was apparently a different size to the new part in terms of length (I can’t remember if new is shorter or longer), I used the part number from EPC, A1192000015
I’ve been told existing thermostat is fine by testing so they’ve left it in for now as I was worried to install the wrong part. Looks brand new upon removal.
Could someone confirm the correct thermostat for 1994 E500?
The part number you list (119-xxx) is only for very late build E500's, sounds like you need the more common 116- part number.
See photos at post #2 at this link.
See photos at post #2 at this link.
I finally collected my E500 yesterday. Thermostat and radiator did not get changed as they seem to function ok, so I will get more life out of them and monitor the situation. Car now runs just above 80c in all conditions. I also had the alloys polished.
Not too many plans now, I have a big brake kit to install (still in two minds), ASR defeat, FGS, WOT enrichment LH module and the roof lining in black alcantera. Car needs lowering also, will try with adjusting SLS first and if no joy, I’ll be going with H&R springs. That should keep me busy this year
Not too many plans now, I have a big brake kit to install (still in two minds), ASR defeat, FGS, WOT enrichment LH module and the roof lining in black alcantera. Car needs lowering also, will try with adjusting SLS first and if no joy, I’ll be going with H&R springs. That should keep me busy this year
Do your homework on the lowering options. I had H&R springs on a car years ago and removed them. The front was too low and the rear wasn't low enough, and there was no way to raise the front. What is the distance in inches from bottom of fender lip to wheel center, front & rear? Note the fuel load also, this affects the rear measurement.Car needs lowering also, will try with adjusting SLS first and if no joy, I’ll be going with H&R springs. That should keep me busy this year
Your ride height looks nearly perfect to my eyes. If you want the rear lower, try Limited springs first, or cut 1/4 coil off the existing rear springs along with an SLS adjustment. I assume you are on 1-pt front pads already, if not, try that up front.
Thanks Dave, I’m really happy with the front, just not the rear, it’s far too high and the car does not sit nice. I have to admit I’ve not looked at the SLS adjustment yet so that’s next on the agenda.
Car rides lovely BTW, don’t want to ruin the ride now so H&R springs are also not preferred TBH
I’m on Limited rear springs and 1 nib pads already. Cutting the rear springs is a last resort for me but I can get it done as I’ve got the old original set of rear springs I could technically butcher.
Got it - start by measuring the rear from fender lip to wheel center, and we can determine if the SLS is artificially lifting the rear or not. Otherwise you'll need to cut the Limited springs SLIGHTLY. About 1/4 coil should be plenty. Or cut 1/4 to 1/3 coil off the stock rear springs. I've done this on a couple of cars and it works very well. It's a lot of trial & error with spring pads and SLS adjustment to get it all sorted.
@e500.org How you like those MPS4S? I note that yours are made in Germany, 27th week of 2021.
The ones that I had so much trouble with (and returned and refunded) were made in the 14th and 19 th week of 2021 in the USA. I have also spoken with another 124 owner with 18” MPS4S here in the USA that is getting vibrations from those tires.
Btw do you prefer polishing? Or is there no one local that will machine finish those alloys?
The ones that I had so much trouble with (and returned and refunded) were made in the 14th and 19 th week of 2021 in the USA. I have also spoken with another 124 owner with 18” MPS4S here in the USA that is getting vibrations from those tires.
Btw do you prefer polishing? Or is there no one local that will machine finish those alloys?
Tyres are fine, no issues to report at all.
Could not find a good shop to diamond cut these (which is what I wanted in the first place), so opted for polished finish. Pretty happy with it tbh and no plans to change it at the moment.
