Can you get the emissions checked?
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OWNER 1993 400E in Signal red, possibly sketchy car
- Thread starter 93-400E
- Start date
Make sure you don't have a fuel leak. If excess fuel is getting dumped into the exhaust from an excessively rich mixture, the result is a strong odor from the exhaust, but it doesn't smell like gasoline. If you smell gas, inspect the fuel pump package area underneath the car. If the pumps/hoses are 33 years old, everything is overdue for replacement.
In oregon its not really a thing.
It does smell exhaust oriented I will say. But I will do that asap. Although the fuel tank pressure remains high if thats an indicator.
It's normal to have pressure escape the fuel tank when you remove the filler cap.
I was meaning that the pressure could indicate a lack of leaks? Maybe? I truly dont know.
nope, that just means the tank isn't leaking.
the most common leak is from the hose between fuel filter and frame pipe, next is probably the pumps themselves. both typically leak with the engine running while the pumps are under pressure. you'll see evidence of dried fuel residue if there's been leakage in the past around these items, if it's not actively dripping with the engine running.
In general, don't use any cleaners on the MAF unless it's visibly dirty or contaminated. It has an automatic cleaning feature that burns off residue from the wire. The air temp sensor (at driver headlight) has very little effect on engine operation, if there's no fault code, it's probably ok.
Now THAT is a problem. Your thermostat is defective! Replace it with OEM Behr or Wahler only, make sure you get the 116- part number. Details here. The engine should normally get to at least 80°C on the gauge (assuming the gauge is accurate) within 5-10 minutes of normal driving. Typical operating temps are 85-95°C (higher in summer).
No its that penultimate bit of your paragraph. My commute is about 1.2 miles or 4ish mins. Its doesnt get to. The car has hit 95-100° when in traffic with the ac on after some highway pulls during a fluke 75° which seems normal. And its pretty cold again as of late and has 20w oil because my 10w didnt come in yet. So it might take longer to heat up.
Go for a 10 minute drive sometime, from a cold start. If the temp isn't above 80C within 10 mins, the t-stat needs replacement. VERY common problem on these engines. Sometimes the t-stats only last 7-10 years before acting up.
Remember, the primary function of the thermostat is to ensure the engine warms up quickly. If it's opening prematurely even a little, the result is much longer than normal time to reach operating temp. Shouldn't matter if it's "cold" outside unless temps are well below freezing.
When I lived right off a 55mph road, I'd usually see the temp up to 80C within 2-3 minutes of driving.
Running at or above 100C in summer traffic is a separate problem, your fan clutch might not be engaged... or the t-stat is not fully opening.
Remember, the primary function of the thermostat is to ensure the engine warms up quickly. If it's opening prematurely even a little, the result is much longer than normal time to reach operating temp. Shouldn't matter if it's "cold" outside unless temps are well below freezing.
When I lived right off a 55mph road, I'd usually see the temp up to 80C within 2-3 minutes of driving.
Running at or above 100C in summer traffic is a separate problem, your fan clutch might not be engaged... or the t-stat is not fully opening.
If #6 keeps coming back, it's 99% likely something with either the ETA or T/LLR. Check fault codes on pin #6, clear them, see which codes return. It takes a day or two of driving before the CEL will trigger again.
#26 tends to be infrequent, but the cause is the same. Most likely a vacuum issue to the Bowden / control pressure cable.
You have searched the forum for past discussions on these fault codes, right?
Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit (DM Code 26) | Transmission and Driveline
When pulling codes today, I got a dtc 26 on socket 19 (the Diagnostic Module). I also got a dtc 6 (Idle Speed Control inop.) but I'm not sure the two are related. Occasionally I get ETA issues when it freezes at night. Maybe the upshift delay problem has been there for some time but only...
Probably not. Could you describe in more detail what the problem is? Do you know when the last time was the fluid & filter were chaged?
No idea when they were changed last because there are no records. But essentially, on cold starts and when just up around operating temp its fine in reverse and normal operation on the torque converter, it pulls normally. Then a little more time and heat the pull from the torque converter weakens but is especially notable in reverse.
Guess I'm still not understanding. Is there a delay for reverse to engage? Or does it not feel right after reverse engages, while in motion?
Wouldn't hurt to change the fluid & filter. If you do so, make sure to drain the torque converter also. Look at the "How-To" writeup on this forum. While the pan is off, check for abnormal amounts of gray swarf or chunks of friction material.
Wouldn't hurt to change the fluid & filter. If you do so, make sure to drain the torque converter also. Look at the "How-To" writeup on this forum. While the pan is off, check for abnormal amounts of gray swarf or chunks of friction material.
Once it is engaged, it moves maybe a 1/4mph when fully heated up.
Ohhhh. If reverse engages, but then the engine revs up and the car barely moves... that's a Bad Sign. Do you hear any clicking noises either during reverse engagement, or while backing up?
Also, how long does reverse take to engage when you select "R"? Like, 1-2 seconds... or 3-4 seconds... or longer?
No clicking and 1-2 seconds
And again, only when pretty warmed up.
OK - that's normal.
Really not sure what's up. The fluid should be bright red (not brown or dark) and shouldn't smell burned. Also make sure the level is correct. Need to check with the transmission fully hot (20-30 mins freeway driving) and with the engine idling in Park.
Im having a problem similar to another user Agav. With rough running when warm. Only codes 6 and 26 have gone and they only throw when the car is already warm and mostly when I turn the car back on when still warm with the ac on. And most recently that rough idle appeared. As easy as it sounds, would an unplug/replug of the eta help? (Btw the eta on mine is 141 78 25.)
Rough running is almost always due to secondary ignition issues (cap, rotor, wires, plugs). And yes, it's usually worse when warmed up.
What plugs did you install, at what gap? Have the caps/rotors been inspected or replaced?
The ETA isn't the problem, the ETA only controls throttle opening - it cannot cause rough running.
What plugs did you install, at what gap? Have the caps/rotors been inspected or replaced?
The ETA isn't the problem, the ETA only controls throttle opening - it cannot cause rough running.
Coils are REALLY rare failures. I've replaced them on a couple of cars proactively and saw zero change in anything.
OE wires are not common failures, but worth checking if the resistance is in spec, should measure 1600-2400 ohms (resistor in the plug boot). If you can hear arcing when a misfire occurs, and/or see the arc at night, that's the other way to identify bad wires.
>95% of the time the issue is caps, rotors, or insulators... all of which can be affected by oil leaks from the cam seal or intake cam advance solenoid.
OE wires are not common failures, but worth checking if the resistance is in spec, should measure 1600-2400 ohms (resistor in the plug boot). If you can hear arcing when a misfire occurs, and/or see the arc at night, that's the other way to identify bad wires.
>95% of the time the issue is caps, rotors, or insulators... all of which can be affected by oil leaks from the cam seal or intake cam advance solenoid.
Yep. Oil leaks MUST be fixed 100%... along with cutting the additional venting slots into the caps. Otherwise you'll be replacing caps & rotors every 3kmi or so as the misfires return. Installing new stuff is a temporary fix if there are oil leaks.
Yup, search the forum... here's one example.
Thank you so much. This community and yourself have been very helpful.
I live in Houston, TX and it is HUMID! I have had all the issues various times, but in addition to all the fixes with slots and new ignition components, I removed everything from the cam area and soaked a rag with WD40. I wiped every surface of the units removed, and then soaked the rag again and wiped down the entire area of the aluminum for the cam area hosting the ignition. (I had replaced cam seals several years ago and also new cam adjusters) I had no leaks from cam seals or other components - and I have made multiple short trips, sit for 3-4 days, more short trips then long ones. No issues what so ever with the wd40 treatment. Leading up to this I would need to let car start 10 mins early and let the temp rise to operating temp before backing out of the garage over fear of stalling. (slightly exaggerating) but the fart/burps in reverse were rally bad right after initial temp idle reduction.
So I resolve to wipe this sucker every 4-6 months as needed - its just incremental when you live on the gulf coast or anywhere with heightened humidity. YMMV
So I resolve to wipe this sucker every 4-6 months as needed - its just incremental when you live on the gulf coast or anywhere with heightened humidity. YMMV
I might have to try that. I forget wd-40 has actual usage rather than people thinking its lube. Thank you for the tip.
I was looking around and I think I know the answer but can I just get the 16×8 8 hole wheels and they just fit right? Or would I have to get spacers? I just dont really understand the measurements. But more specifically, does 1244011402 work directly on my 400e. I think it should.
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16x8 wheels will "fit", but unless you drive like an old lady, they will likely rub unless you roll the fender lips and add fender spacers up front. See the AMG install document here for a similar width/offset.
Wheel spacers would make the rubbing worse, not better, they would push the wheels further out.
Wheel spacers would make the rubbing worse, not better, they would push the wheels further out.
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I just did pads and rotors on all corners. I used 294×25 rotors in the front and they were too wide for the calipers. And due to desperation we dremeled them down to fit and even the pads fit too tight. Not terrible though. The rears are 274×24 and fit perfectly. Ate calipers, ate rotors, akebono pads. TLDR; has anyone experienced rotors too thick for the calipers on a 400e?
