Can you get the emissions checked?
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OWNER 1993 400E in Signal red, possibly sketchy car
- Thread starter 93-400E
- Start date
Make sure you don't have a fuel leak. If excess fuel is getting dumped into the exhaust from an excessively rich mixture, the result is a strong odor from the exhaust, but it doesn't smell like gasoline. If you smell gas, inspect the fuel pump package area underneath the car. If the pumps/hoses are 33 years old, everything is overdue for replacement.
In oregon its not really a thing.
It does smell exhaust oriented I will say. But I will do that asap. Although the fuel tank pressure remains high if thats an indicator.
It's normal to have pressure escape the fuel tank when you remove the filler cap.
I was meaning that the pressure could indicate a lack of leaks? Maybe? I truly dont know.
nope, that just means the tank isn't leaking.
the most common leak is from the hose between fuel filter and frame pipe, next is probably the pumps themselves. both typically leak with the engine running while the pumps are under pressure. you'll see evidence of dried fuel residue if there's been leakage in the past around these items, if it's not actively dripping with the engine running.
In general, don't use any cleaners on the MAF unless it's visibly dirty or contaminated. It has an automatic cleaning feature that burns off residue from the wire. The air temp sensor (at driver headlight) has very little effect on engine operation, if there's no fault code, it's probably ok.
Now THAT is a problem. Your thermostat is defective! Replace it with OEM Behr or Wahler only, make sure you get the 116- part number. Details here. The engine should normally get to at least 80°C on the gauge (assuming the gauge is accurate) within 5-10 minutes of normal driving. Typical operating temps are 85-95°C (higher in summer).
No its that penultimate bit of your paragraph. My commute is about 1.2 miles or 4ish mins. Its doesnt get to. The car has hit 95-100° when in traffic with the ac on after some highway pulls during a fluke 75° which seems normal. And its pretty cold again as of late and has 20w oil because my 10w didnt come in yet. So it might take longer to heat up.
Go for a 10 minute drive sometime, from a cold start. If the temp isn't above 80C within 10 mins, the t-stat needs replacement. VERY common problem on these engines. Sometimes the t-stats only last 7-10 years before acting up.
Remember, the primary function of the thermostat is to ensure the engine warms up quickly. If it's opening prematurely even a little, the result is much longer than normal time to reach operating temp. Shouldn't matter if it's "cold" outside unless temps are well below freezing.
When I lived right off a 55mph road, I'd usually see the temp up to 80C within 2-3 minutes of driving.
Running at or above 100C in summer traffic is a separate problem, your fan clutch might not be engaged... or the t-stat is not fully opening.
Remember, the primary function of the thermostat is to ensure the engine warms up quickly. If it's opening prematurely even a little, the result is much longer than normal time to reach operating temp. Shouldn't matter if it's "cold" outside unless temps are well below freezing.
When I lived right off a 55mph road, I'd usually see the temp up to 80C within 2-3 minutes of driving.
Running at or above 100C in summer traffic is a separate problem, your fan clutch might not be engaged... or the t-stat is not fully opening.
If #6 keeps coming back, it's 99% likely something with either the ETA or T/LLR. Check fault codes on pin #6, clear them, see which codes return. It takes a day or two of driving before the CEL will trigger again.
#26 tends to be infrequent, but the cause is the same. Most likely a vacuum issue to the Bowden / control pressure cable.
You have searched the forum for past discussions on these fault codes, right?
Upshift Delay Switchover Valve, Open/Short Circuit (DM Code 26) | Transmission and Driveline
When pulling codes today, I got a dtc 26 on socket 19 (the Diagnostic Module). I also got a dtc 6 (Idle Speed Control inop.) but I'm not sure the two are related. Occasionally I get ETA issues when it freezes at night. Maybe the upshift delay problem has been there for some time but only...
Probably not. Could you describe in more detail what the problem is? Do you know when the last time was the fluid & filter were chaged?
No idea when they were changed last because there are no records. But essentially, on cold starts and when just up around operating temp its fine in reverse and normal operation on the torque converter, it pulls normally. Then a little more time and heat the pull from the torque converter weakens but is especially notable in reverse.
Guess I'm still not understanding. Is there a delay for reverse to engage? Or does it not feel right after reverse engages, while in motion?
Wouldn't hurt to change the fluid & filter. If you do so, make sure to drain the torque converter also. Look at the "How-To" writeup on this forum. While the pan is off, check for abnormal amounts of gray swarf or chunks of friction material.
Wouldn't hurt to change the fluid & filter. If you do so, make sure to drain the torque converter also. Look at the "How-To" writeup on this forum. While the pan is off, check for abnormal amounts of gray swarf or chunks of friction material.
Once it is engaged, it moves maybe a 1/4mph when fully heated up.
Ohhhh. If reverse engages, but then the engine revs up and the car barely moves... that's a Bad Sign. Do you hear any clicking noises either during reverse engagement, or while backing up?
Also, how long does reverse take to engage when you select "R"? Like, 1-2 seconds... or 3-4 seconds... or longer?
No clicking and 1-2 seconds
And again, only when pretty warmed up.
OK - that's normal.
Really not sure what's up. The fluid should be bright red (not brown or dark) and shouldn't smell burned. Also make sure the level is correct. Need to check with the transmission fully hot (20-30 mins freeway driving) and with the engine idling in Park.
