OWNER smoker (1995 E420)

[smoker]

The car has sat unused for almost 6 years, while I chased my professional sailing career. With an impending move from NJ to CT, I need the car even more now.

The things that I'm doing to the car to bring it back, besides the usual liquid flush, replacing rubber, etc are -

1. Replacing headlights with Euro.
2. Replacing fuel tank with a 90l fuel tank from a 1995 E300D - $400.00 from Canada with carpets and few small bits).
3. Replacing the current differential with a 2.65 w/ASR (Donor car was a 1992 500SL with 45000 miles - $500+shipping, etc = $586.44).
4. Replacing the alternator with a 143A (From a 94-99 W140 - $50+shipping, etc = $83.17)
5. Replacing suspension with 500E sway bars, rotors, sportline shocks, etc.
6. Replacing the head liner.
7. Replacing seat mats.
8. Few broken odd bits.
9. Debadging it (Opinion!).

The car as it currently looks with 81K miles on it -

 

[ccrelan]

Where in CT are you moving to?

 

[Prometey]

1. Replacing headlights with Euro.

you still have American-style headlights, I need a couple of parts from them?
Thank you

 

[smoker]

you still have American-style headlights, I need a couple of parts from them? Thank you

Where in CT are you moving to?

@Prometey

I have yet to take them off and intend to sell them as a set, if possible. What parts are you looking for?

@ccrelan

We are trying to sell our house in Bayonne, NJ and till then renting in either New Canaan or Ridgefield, with an eye to purchase in Fairfield.

Which part are you in?

Cheers

 

[smoker]

Bulbs & Headlights -

Hi

I'm planning to use Hella H4P50 +50, Hella H3P50 +50 & the Hella 7528TB 12v 21/5w in the Euro headlights (Hella) that I plan to install.

Would you guys recommend or perhaps give an alternate choice/opinion?

TIA

 

[gsxr]

@Jlaa is your man for bulb questions. There's a couple threads here discussion various options now that the old-school German Osram Hypers are NLA.

 

[a777fan]

That is one well optioned e420! Super jelly!

 

[Prometey]

Я еще не снял их и намерен продать их в комплекте, если это возможно. Какие части вы ищете?

I need the inner plastic of the American Bosch headlight, on which the headlight reflectors are attached and adjusted

 

[smoker]

Good Morning folks

I'm finally back from the sea for , hopefully, 2 months and getting ready to fix the car. The parts that I have so far -

500E Sway Bars
90l fuel tank from a 1995 E300D
2.65 differential with ASR
143A alternator
Front and Rear calipers from @gsxr
Upper Harness
Cool Harness
Euro Headlights
Harnesses & Bulbs for the Euro Headlight conversion
Headrest motors for the front seats
Spark Plugs
Yellr for speedo calibration
And, a gear shifter

 

[smoker]

The Sportline parts that I'm going to buy/order in the next few days are -

Sway bars
$ 19.98 - $ 9.99 x 2 - Product ID: 124-323-47-85 - Front Stabilizer Bar
$ 15.54 - $ 7.77 x 2 - Product ID: 124-323-51-85 - Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing
$ 13.34 - $ 6.67 x 2 - Product ID: 210-326-08-81 - Rear Stabilizer Bar Bushing
Suspension
$ 411.84 - $205.92 x 2 - Product ID: 124-320-57-30 - 500E w/ Internal Spring Front Strut <-- Confused about this. Do I have it correct?
$ 34.78 - $ 17.39 x 2 - Product ID: 124-323-06-44 - Rubber Shaft Buffer for above
$ 257.40 - $128.70 x 2 - Product ID: 124-321-42-04 - Front Springs
$ 355.68 - $177.84 x 2 - Product ID: 124-320-50-30-64 - Front Shock Absorber
$ 13.34 - $ 6.67 x 2 - Product ID: 201-321-09-84 - Spring Upper Insulator (Pads)
$ 219.60 - $109.80 x 2 - Product ID: 124-324-28-04 - Coil Spring (Rear Struts)
$ 18.50 - $ 9.25 x 2 - Product ID: 201-325-11-44 - Spring Insulator (Rear Pad) <-- Confused. This or Part # 201-321-09-84?
$ 236.68 - $118.34 x 2 - Product ID: 124-320-23-31 - Rear Shock Absorber
Alternator
$ 18.13 - $ 18.13 x 1 - Product ID: 007-981-73-25 - Bearing (Alternator Pulley) for the 143A Alternator
Fuel Tank
$ 82.96 - $ 82.96 x 1 - Product ID: 124-470-80-75 - Fuel Hose
$ 106.18 - $106.18 x 1 - Product ID: 124-470-69-75 - Feed Hose
$ 49.20 - $ 49.20 x 1 - Product ID: 129-470-06-64 - Fuel Line
$ 24.08 - $ 24.08 x 1 - Product ID: 124-476-04-32 - Purge Control (Vent) Valve
$ 25.94 - $ 25.94 x 1 - Product ID: 230-476-87-26 - Fuel Tank Hose (Below)
$ 7.03 - $ 7.03 x 1 - Product ID: 107-476-24-26 - Fuel Tank Hose (Above)
$ 3.63 - $ 3.63 x 1 - Product ID: 124-471-32-23 - Fuel Line
$ 10.36 - $ 2.59 x 4 - Product ID: 124-997-19-90 - Clamps for 13.5mm hose
$ 8.88 - $ 2.22 x 4 - Product ID: 124-997-20-90 - Clamps for 15.5mm hose
$1,916.18

Most of the part #s are culled from the various posts made by forum members, especially by @gsxr, which are spread all over and his w124performance website.

Can somebody please go through the list and point out any errors or add whatever that I have missed?

Thanks much in advance.

 

[Jlaa]

@smoker, do you have a copy of the electronic EPC?
It is a great resource. I have found the best way is to go from top down from the EPC's diagrams instead of bottoms-up (getting part numbers from posts).

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/epc-isppi-wis-asra-and-ewa-net-information-on-buying-installing.3724/

HOW-TO: Mercedes-Benz EPC 101 | Maintenance Documents

This is intended to be a series on how to use the Mercedes-Benz Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC). The parts of the series will be cumulative in terms of building on past knowledge. I'll structure this as EPC 101, Intermediate EPC 201 and Advanced EPC 301. This is the first installment in the...

www.500eboard.co

HOW-TO: Find Part Applications Using Mercedes ISPPI and EPC Systems | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

Many parts — particularly hardware such as nuts, bolts, and washers — are used in multiple applications across different chassis (for example, the W124 and the W210), across different models (for example, the 500E and the 400E), and even across different applications or systems on the same car...

www.500eboard.co

Anyways that way you can point and click and then contact an MB dealer and order EVERYTHING. I did this with the fuel lines for the 500E recently (but you could do the same with the E420):




BTW for the front strut, yes, see the below diagram. That part number is the original part for 500Es UP TO chassis code B7123 and has since been superseded by other part numbers (as seen in the diagram). As well, for 500Es with chassis code FROM B71231, there are different part numbers (as well as different part numbers that have superseded this one)...

 

[gsxr]

You have front struts listed twice... you only need 2, not 4.

The "early" 500E struts (124-320-57-30 / 124-320-43-30) have an M12 pinch bolt hole, "late" (124-320-71-30 / 124-320-50-30) have M14 bolt hole. This is the ONLY difference. Both have internal rebound limiting springs. Your E420 would use the late/M14 version. It appears both early & late have been superceded to the newer numbers with a -64 suffix, which are likely Sachs made in Turkey.

The spring pads are available in different thicknesses and if you want to set up per EPC specs, you need to order the springs FIRST, see what color stripes you receive, THEN order the appropriate thickness spring pad. You cannot order a specific spring color stripe. And, you may want to change the spring pad thickness to adjust ride height to personal preference. The thinnest pad all around is not necessarily the best option. Unfortunately this is trial & error, you have to install springs/pads and test drive the car, measure the ride height at all 4 corners, and adjust as needed by swapping spring pads. Lather, rinse, repeat.

You may need to re-use your existing alternator pulley, btw. The correct pulley is A1191550315 which MB Classic says is available, but online dealers show as NLA... would need to call a dealer to confirm availability. I'd re-use the old one, use an impact wrench to remove & install the nut. The part number you listed is for an internal alternator bearing, NOT the 6-groove pulley.

What dealer/website do you plan on ordering from, btw? Don't give them a VIN, and/or explain to them you are building a custom project, otherwise they may "fix" your "wrong" part numbers and send you stuff you don't want or need.

 

[smoker]

You have front struts listed twice... you only need 2, not 4.

Thanks

The "early" 500E struts (124-320-57-30 / 124-320-43-30) have an M12 pinch bolt hole, "late" (124-320-71-30 / 124-320-50-30) have M14 bolt hole. This is the ONLY difference. Both have internal rebound limiting springs. Your E420 would use the late/M14 version. It appears both early & late have been superceded to the newer numbers with a -64 suffix, which are likely Sachs made in Turkey.e

Remove $411.84 - $205.92 x 2 - Product ID: 124-320-57-30 - 500E w/ Internal Spring Front Strut from the list, right?

The spring pads are available in different thicknesses and if you want to set up per EPC specs, you need to order the springs FIRST, see what color stripes you receive, THEN order the appropriate thickness spring pad. You cannot order a specific spring color stripe. And, you may want to change the spring pad thickness to adjust ride height to personal preference. The thinnest pad all around is not necessarily the best option. Unfortunately this is trial & error, you have to install springs/pads and test drive the car, measure the ride height at all 4 corners, and adjust as needed by swapping spring pads. Lather, rinse, repeat.

Remove, for now -

$13.34 - $ 6.67 x 2 - Product ID: 201-321-09-84 - Spring Upper Insulator (Pads) &
$18.50 - $ 9.25 x 2 - Product ID: 201-325-11-44 - Spring Insulator (Rear Pad)

You may need to re-use your existing alternator pulley, btw. The correct pulley is A1191550315 which MB Classic says is available, but online dealers show as NLA... would need to call a dealer to confirm availability. I'd re-use the old one, use an impact wrench to remove & install the nut. The part number you listed is for an internal alternator bearing, NOT the 6-groove pulley.

Removed $18.13 - $ 18.13 x 1 - Product ID: 007-981-73-25 - Bearing (Alternator Pulley) for the 143A Alternator

What dealer/website do you plan on ordering from, btw? Don't give them a VIN, and/or explain to them you are building a custom project, otherwise they may "fix" your "wrong" part numbers and send you stuff you don't want or need.

I tried using mboemparts and did some comparison shopping on oempartsmercedes, who turned out to be a dealer in Arizona. The parts manager said that all parts come from the MB warehouse in NJ and it'd be much cheaper for me to print out the price list, go to a dealer in NJ, tell them to match the price and buy from here. Will save on shipping costs. I tried getting in touch with mboemparts, hoping that they're based in NJ, no reply yet.

I won't give them the VIN. Thanks for the heads up

Once again, @gsxr many thanks for your help

 

[smoker]

@smoker, do you have a copy of the electronic EPC?
It is a great resource. I have found the best way is to go from top down from the EPC's diagrams instead of bottoms-up (getting part numbers from posts).

No, I don't

https://www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/epc-isppi-wis-asra-and-ewa-net-information-on-buying-installing.3724/

HOW-TO: Mercedes-Benz EPC 101 | Maintenance Documents

This is intended to be a series on how to use the Mercedes-Benz Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC). The parts of the series will be cumulative in terms of building on past knowledge. I'll structure this as EPC 101, Intermediate EPC 201 and Advanced EPC 301. This is the first installment in the...

www.500eboard.co

HOW-TO: Find Part Applications Using Mercedes ISPPI and EPC Systems | "HOW-TO" Tutorial Articles

Many parts — particularly hardware such as nuts, bolts, and washers — are used in multiple applications across different chassis (for example, the W124 and the W210), across different models (for example, the 500E and the 400E), and even across different applications or systems on the same car...

www.500eboard.co

Anyways that way you can point and click and then contact an MB dealer and order EVERYTHING. I did this with the fuel lines for the 500E recently (but you could do the same with the E420):

View attachment 153877View attachment 153878 View attachment 153879


BTW for the front strut, yes, see the below diagram. That part number is the original part for 500Es UP TO chassis code B7123 and has since been superseded by other part numbers (as seen in the diagram). As well, for 500Es with chassis code FROM B71231, there are different part numbers (as well as different part numbers that have superseded this one)...

View attachment 153880

So, basically I can't use that part.. Thanks

 

[gsxr]

Remove $411.84 - $205.92 x 2 - Product ID: 124-320-57-30 - 500E w/ Internal Spring Front Strut from the list, right?

Correct. This would get superceded to a different number anyway, per the EPC.

Remove, for now -

$13.34 - $ 6.67 x 2 - Product ID: 201-321-09-84 - Spring Upper Insulator (Pads) &
$18.50 - $ 9.25 x 2 - Product ID: 201-325-11-44 - Spring Insulator (Rear Pad)

It depends. You can check what pads are on the car now (visual inspection with flashlight) and order the "other" pads you don't already have. Or buy the full assortment (4 pairs front, 3 pairs rear) so you have them all on hand to dial in after the work is done. The tough part will be convincing the shop to make the adjustments and properly loading the rear suspension before tightening the rear LCA inner pivot bolt each time. Best to DIY this instead of paying for it, but you'll need to invest in a spring compressor.

Spring pad pat numbers:

201-321-09-84 - Front, 1-point (8mm)​

201-321-10-84 - Front, 2-point (13mm)​

201-321-11-84 - Front, 3-point (18mm)​

201-321-12-84 - Front, 4-point (23mm)​

​

201-325-09-44 - Rear, 1-point (8mm)​

201-325-10-44 - Rear, 2-point (13mm)​

201-325-11-44 - Rear, 3-point (18mm)​

Removed $18.13 - $ 18.13 x 1 - Product ID: 007-981-73-25 - Bearing (Alternator Pulley) for the 143A Alternator

I tried using mboemparts and did some comparison shopping on oempartsmercedes, who turned out to be a dealer in Arizona. The parts manager said that all parts come from the MB warehouse in NJ and it'd be much cheaper for me to print out the price list, go to a dealer in NJ, tell them to match the price and buy from here. Will save on shipping costs. I tried getting in touch with mboemparts, hoping that they're based in NJ, no reply yet.

OEM Parts is MB Naperville, based in Illinois. Find a local dealer, show them the full list & prices, see what they will do. If they have half a brain they'll work with you and make some money, instead of no money. If the local dealer won't play ball, try the next nearest dealer, etc. It would be worth an hour or two drive to deal with live people instead of the faceless internet.

I won't give them the VIN. Thanks for the heads up. Once again, @gsxr many thanks for your help

np!

No, I don't [have the EPC]

As Jlaa said, you REALLY need to get access. Either online via Xentry parts, or buy a copy to install on your computer, or worst case use a free online EPC (there are a few out there). Remember this will not guarantee part availability, and you need to learn how to use the EPC (i.e. how to read footnotes), but it will be a huge help.

So, basically I can't use that part.. Thanks

Look at the screenshot Jlaa posted with the struts. There were old part numbers (which included the hardware) for early/late, these were replaced by newer part numbers (which do NOT include hardware) for early/late. That's why there are 4 total part numbers. You can use any of the four, but likely only 2 will be available for purcase. And, the early ones would need to have the hole for the pinch bolt enlarged to accept the M14 bolt on your E420.

 

[smoker]

Hello

1. I'm able to find only ATE 320x30 front and Zimmerman 300x22 rears with Porterfield R4-S pads. Does this combination work? Any thoughts!

2. Looking for recommendations on steel braided brake lines. Called Deerfield Precision several times, left messages and an email, but no response.

Please guide me.

Thanks as always and I owe this forum a lot

 

[TimL]

I had bought Goodridge G-Stop brake lines about 4 years ago and they worked out just fine

 

[Jlaa]

Hello
2. Looking for recommendations on steel braided brake lines. Called Deerfield Precision several times, left messages and an email, but no response.

Please guide me.

Thanks as always and I owe this forum a lot

JB Herbert is a good guy but sometimes he gets a bit backed up as a one man show. You might try emailing wrxtra@gmail.com as well. Sometimes it takes him a while to respond.

 

[gsxr]

1. I'm able to find only ATE 320x30 front and Zimmerman 300x22 rears with Porterfield R4-S pads. Does this combination work? Any thoughts!

That combo should work just fine. I'd lean towards the OE MB rotors if available (think one side of the fronts is NLA), otherwise Zimmerperson would be my next choice.

2. Looking for recommendations on steel braided brake lines. Called Deerfield Precision several times, left messages and an email, but no response.

Try the email Jlaa posted above. JB will get in touch with you, or just order from his website if possible (sometimes the site acts up). He does the brake hoses as a side business, not his day job...

 

[smoker]

@Jlaa & @gsxr

Thank you, gentlemen. I emailed Mr Herbert and awaiting a response

 

[smoker]

MB no longer has Product ID: 124-320-23-31 - Rear Shock Absorber in stock, neither in USA nor Germany.

Is it ok to keep the front OEM and go Bilstein on the rear or should I cancel the OEM front too (i.e. if they cancel it at this hour)?

 

[nocfn]

Parts are scarce. bilsteine shocks for the car are just fine as long as they are the omes for the car

 

[smoker]

I had bought Goodridge G-Stop brake lines about 4 years ago and they worked out just fine

Thanks @TimL I'll give it a day for the gentleman to respond.

 

[smoker]

Parts are scarce. bilsteine shocks for the car are just fine as long as they are the omes for the car

Thank you @nocfn

 

[smoker]

Finally, got almost ALL the parts, except for 1xFront Spring . I may have to return it and get 500E front springs instead.

The cost so far -

Sway bars
$ 495.00 - 500E Sway Bars
$ 19.98 - $ 9.99 x 2 - Product ID: 124-323-47-85 - Front Stabilizer Bar
$ 15.54 - $ 7.77 x 2 - Product ID: 124-323-51-85 - Front Stabilizer Bar Bushing
$ 13.32 - $ 6.66 x 2 - Product ID: 210-326-08-81 - Rear Stabilizer Bar Bushing
Suspension
$ 34.78 - $ 17.39 x 2 - Product ID: 124-323-06-44 - Rubber Shaft Buffer for above
$ 136.13 - $136.13 x 1 - Product ID: 124-321-42-04 - Front Springs
$ 375.92 - $187.96 x 2 - Product ID: 124-320-50-30-64 - Front Shock Absorber
$ 222.00 - $111.00 x 2 - Product ID: 124-324-28-04 - Coil Spring (Rear Struts)
$ 300.12 - - Product ID: 124-320-23-31 - Rear Shock Absorber (Got Bilsteins replacement as OEM no longer available)
Alternator & Differential
$ 83.17 - $ 83.17 x 1 - Product ID: 0091545602 - 143A Alternator
$ 586.44 - $546.44 x 1 - - 2.65 Differential w/ ASR
Fuel Tank
$ 510.00 - - Fuel tank from E300D, mats & motors for headrests
$ 84.36 - $ 84.36 x 1 - Product ID: 124-470-80-75 - Fuel Hose
$ 107.30 - $107.30 x 1 - Product ID: 124-470-69-75 - Feed Hose
$ 49.58 - $ 49.58 x 1 - Product ID: 129-470-06-64 - Fuel Line
$ 24.05 - $ 24.05 x 1 - Product ID: 124-476-04-32 - Purge Control (Vent) Valve
$ 25.90 - $ 25.90 x 1 - Product ID: 230-476-87-26 - Fuel Tank Hose (Below)
$ 7.03 - $ 7.03 x 1 - Product ID: 107-476-24-26 - Fuel Tank Hose (Above)
$ 3.63 - $ 3.63 x 1 - Product ID: 124-471-32-23 - Fuel Line
$ 10.36 - $ 2.59 x 4 - Product ID: 124-997-19-90 - Clamps for 13.5mm hose
$ 8.88 - $ 2.22 x 4 - Product ID: 124-997-20-90 - Clamps for 15.5mm hose
Brakes & Rims
$ 199.70 - $ 99.85 x 2 - Product ID: 129-421-17-12-64 - Front Rotors
$ 163.11 - $ 81.55 x 2 - Product ID: 129-423-03-12 - Rear Rotors
$ 270.46 - - R4-S AP561 & 603 - Porterfield Pads
$ 89.90 - - BSL - 380009 & 381105 - Deerfield Stainless Steel Brake Hoses
$1,252.25 - - Product ID: 124-401-15-02 - OEM 16" Rims
$1,140.00 - - Straightening rims, Diamond polishing, etc
$ 735.27 - - Michelin CrossClimate2 205/55R16 Tires
HeadLights
$1,316.82 - - Hella OEM Euro Headlights
$ 25.56 - - Headlights Wiring Adapter Set
$ 500.00 - - Euro light harness with leveler
$ 32.31 - - Hella H3/H4 +50 bulbs + 5w city driving bulbs
Miscellaneous
$ 125.00 - - Upper Harness from Mr Sheward
$ 125.84 - - Cool harness from Mr Forgione
$ 102.90 - - Yellr Yellow Box for calibrating speed and rpm
$ 500.00 - - Spare OEM radiator, MAF & distributor caps
$9,692.61 - Total


Photos to follow

 

[smoker]

 

[gsxr]

@smoker, have you checked the part numbers on those springs? In the photo of 3 coil springs, it looks like you have 2 front springs but are missing 1 rear?

 

[smoker]

@smoker, have you checked the part numbers on those springs? In the photo of 3 coil springs, it looks like you have 2 front springs but are missing 1 rear?

Yes, I did. Just looks like it 'coz of the way they were packed and the way I took the photo.

All 3 of them are blue coded. The rears are made in Germany and the front in UK.

Most of the fuel tank parts, the springs, shocks and the rotors came in from Germany. And, also seems like I cleared out the sportline parts. The front rotors, for e.g, and the springs are now NLA.

 

[TimL]

@smoker very cool to see what you are doing with your car

Refreshing the suspension will be so rewarding. Did that a while ago and it improved the driving experience tremendously. Lucky that you got the last sportline parts and sad to see that yet another important part is going NLA

 

[smoker]

@smoker very cool to see what you are doing with your car

Refreshing the suspension will be so rewarding. Did that a while ago and it improved the driving experience tremendously. Lucky that you got the last sportline parts and sad to see that yet another important part is going NLA

@TimL - Thank you

Seems like I also have the last remaining sportline front spring with me, which for me is useless, without a corresponding pair. I'm going to send it back, unless someone wants it.

To replace the front sportline springs, as advised by @gsxr, I bought the 500E front springs, Part # 124-321-35-04. There are only 3 left in the country and I bought 2. So that remains one. Sorry E500E folks

 

[smoker]

Hi folks

Good Afternoon.

Can someone please guide me. I asked around and couldn't get a proper reply.

Attached pics of the car with the newly fitted Euro headlights. There's a gap between the lights and the grill? Is it like this or is there a weather strip?

 

[smoker]

Can somebody also please point me to the right place with info to check what the ride height of the car should after fitting new 16" rims and changing the suspension? And, how to go about correcting/measuring it? The front has E500E springs and the rears have sportline springs. The sway bars are from 1992 500E. I just can't find a proper answer. I'm picking up the car this weekend and the garage says that the car will eventually settle down.

This is how car looked a 2 weeks ago.

Thank you very much

 

[gsxr]

Good Afternoon. Can someone please guide me. I asked around and couldn't get a proper reply.

Attached pics of the car with the newly fitted Euro headlights. There's a gap between the lights and the grill? Is it like this or is there a weather strip?

The gap between lens and hood at the sides of the grille is normal. The gaps should be fairly even, and may take a lot of trial & error adjustment / fiddling with the headlight housing mounting to get them perfect.

Can somebody also please point me to the right place with info to check what the ride height of the car should after fitting new 16" rims and changing the suspension? And, how to go about correcting/measuring it?

See post #12 above. There is no specification in the factory manuals for ride height. Measure from wheel center to fender lip as shown in photos below, as a reference to other cars. Stock E420 is typically 14.5" front, 14.5-15.0" rear. The rear will vary about 1/4-1/2" between full tank and empty tank of gas.

As a ballpark, I would try for 14.0-14.25" up front, and close to that in the rear (maybe a bit higher) with a full tank. You can simulate a full tank by adding weight in the trunk, based on 1 gallon of gas = about 7 pounds. With a half tank (9 gallons) you'd need ~63 lbs of ballast. As a reference, our 1994 E420 is set to 14.25" front AND rear, with a full tank of fuel. Photos of that ride height are in this thread.

The front has E500E springs and the rears have sportline springs. The sway bars are from 1992 500E. I just can't find a proper answer. I'm picking up the car this weekend and the garage says that the car will eventually settle down.

Springs do not "settle down". Drive the car on a bumpy road for 5 minutes and it's as settled as it's going to be. The front will gradually lower over several years (like, up to a half-inch over 5-7 years) as the gas pressure in the struts lessens. The rear doesn't change over time.

If you want to change the ride height, you need to either swap spring pads thinner or thicker. If you want it lower and are already using the thinnest pads, cut a SMALL portion off the bottom of the spring (1/4 coil at a time, maximum). As mentioned back in post #12, it's all trial and error. Very time consuming.

 

[smoker]

@gsxr thank you brother.

I had swapped the cd player from a 1996 E class which also played mp3s and the Euro headunit with a remote control . But. as I grow older, the allure of Apple Carplay grows stronger. Especially, as the car is driven long distance and I need the gps+maps on a larger screen and lately, I find that I stream music more, instead of listening to tapes and CDs'. So, swapped them for a Pioneer AVH-3500NEX with a rear camera.

The headliner was sagging, so went in for a suede one.

I'm also having the car polished and ceramic coated. This is how the car looks after the 1st pass.

 

[smoker]

Hi

Good Evening Gentlemen

Thought I was finally getting back the car today from the garage and took it out for a test drive.

3 mins into the drive and all the lights came on and started flashing. Turned out that the entire wiring loom/harness from the alternator to wherever it goes from under the engine is toast. the wires are bare. The insulation is gone, the copper can be seen and where the wires come out from under the engine, they are sticking to each other and the manifold. The garage told me that I just escaped a costly fire.

Can someone please tell me the part number for that harness. One end is to the alternator and the other end ?

Also, what would be the correct word or the part number for these stoppers on the trunk and the side? Pics attached.

Thanks so much and really appreciate the advice that's given here

Cheers

 

[gerryvz]

 

[gerryvz]

 

[smoker]

View attachment 157806

Thank you @gerryvz for both & pointing me out in the right direction.

That's the lower wiring harness? Where am I going to find it asap!

 

[gsxr]

That's the lower wiring harness? Where am I going to find it asap!

Lower harness has been NLA for a few years now. Options are DIY repair, buying one from Blue Ridge, or buying the repair kit from Kurth Classics in Germany. Topside location is behind the CAN box. Routing is different than on the 036, I don't think there is a HOW-TO for the 034, but if you have a shop do the work that's their problem, lol. Edit: See Gerry's link below.

 

[gerryvz]

I don't think there is a HOW-TO for the 034

HOW-TO: Replacing Lower Wire Harness on 400E/E420 | 400E / E420 Discussions

Since this is an inevitable repair for our cars I figured I can write HOW TO, from my own experience. I couldn’t find very good info online, with pictures, so I figured since I am doing it on my 95’ E420 with 59k miles I can just record it. I expected it to be much harder. I took a lot of...

www.500eboard.co

 

[smoker]

Lower harness has been NLA for a few years now. Options are DIY repair, buying one from Blue Ridge, or buying the repair kit from Kurth Classics in Germany. Topside location is behind the CAN box. Routing is different than on the 036, I don't think there is a HOW-TO for the 034, but if you have a shop do the work that's their problem, lol. Edit: See Gerry's link below.

Thanks

 

[smoker]

HOW-TO: Replacing Lower Wire Harness on 400E/E420 | 400E / E420 Discussions

Since this is an inevitable repair for our cars I figured I can write HOW TO, from my own experience. I couldn’t find very good info online, with pictures, so I figured since I am doing it on my 95’ E420 with 59k miles I can just record it. I expected it to be much harder. I took a lot of...

www.500eboard.co

Thanks

 

[smoker]

Hello folks

Good Evening.

My apology for being MIA, but finally got the car 2 weeks ago.

I initially went to West Side Tire & Auto in Jersey City, NJ 07305. Had initially gone in to refurbish/repolish the OEM 16" rims. Saw a couple of Mercs there and got a big talk from them on how old school they are and doing the car would be no problem for them. they kept the car for 3 months, charged $13,000 + $1,300 for polishing/ceramic coating and this is what I got after 3 months -

1. The upper oil pan got broken - I had to do a search while in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean for this NLA part and somehow managed to source an OEM upper oil pan.
2. I have no idea why the OEM fan clutch was taken out, but that was replaced by a $150.00 Chinese fan clutch, instead of refurbishing the OEM clutch. On the 2nd drive, the clutch seized up and the engine was LOUD.
3. Leaking steering box and re-installed incorrectly - This meant that the right turn was shorter than the left turn.
4. Uneven fitment of the rear bumper, trunk and bonnet.
5. Passenger side spring not fitted properly. Would always rub the rim, till I got it redone.
6. Improper balancing and alignment.
7. Transmission pan pressed in.
8. Although charged for tuning - not done with leaking valve cover gaskets
9. The car always felt lethargic, lacked power and hard shifts when driving - 'coz of generic oils
10. Leaking coolant and generic used.
11. Car neither waxed, polished nor ceramic coated.
12. Some bolts missing - right fender (I had it replaced with a diesel fender), front strut bellows, etc
13. Leaking fuel pumps and a loose fuel tank feed line too (I guess they were in a hurry to replace the bigger fuel tank and go home. Must have lost 2 gallons by way of leak, while driving home.
14. Improper installation of the Euro lights and the Hella bulbs that I had given - not installed and I guess pocketed.
15. Plenty small misc stuff.

Took the car to ENI Motorsports in Springfield, CT for a mop up. That mop up cost me another $7,400.00. Got the following done -

1. Re-installed & wired the headlights properly.
2. Changed the thermostat, replaced the expansion tank, coolant level sensor and coolant. Changed the anti-freeze.
3. Realigned the trunk, rear bumper and the bonnet.
4. Redid the valve covers.
5. Replaced the missing distributor cap covers, made sure that the spark plugs were in the correct heat range and the ignition wires were routed the way they were supposed to be.
6. Found an OEM fan clutch with the OEM fan and got it installed.
7. Bought new front strut bellows, lower engine shield and the left engine shield baffle - they never put the OEM back on the car
8. Replaced the missing radiator fan schrod securing clips.
9. Replaced the broken air filetr housing securing buffers, etc.
10. They replaced the battery, but did not clean the corrosion in the battery tray. So had that done and re-installed with new hardware.
11. Replaced the serpentine drive belt AGAIN with OEM.
12. Redid the steering box AGAIN and reinstalled with proper OEM parts AGAIN. Also, had to bleed the system and get rid of the air pocket.
13. Replaced the transmission pan, sub-oil pan and gaskets.
14. Reseat the front right spring.
15. Drain the car completely of ALL fluids and put in the correct MB/ENI/AGIP fluids.
16. Took off the stupid magnetic weights, put in OEM MB weights, balanced, forced and aligned as per sportline specs.
17. Some smaller stuff.

In all this, the speedometer was re calibrated using Waze for speed and Yellr. But the odometer would not work. So took the cluster to Mr Victor at restoreyourmercedes and got the gears changed. He also put in LED bulbs in the cluster. Looks nice. He charged $300 & the video with the bench test -

The alignment specs -

 

[smoker]

I made a few changes to the center console, added in a Pioneer AVH-3500NEX head unit with a back up camera and a few LED lights.

There are some signs of clear coat fading/gone on the bonnet and the driver side of the bonnet. Guess, I'll do a repaint after a few years. Need to first enjoy the car and recover the money . But the car drives as it should. Smooth acceleration with a barely perceptible shift between gears and almost quiet. I guess something is missing somewhere. 90mph comes up fast and barely noticeable, unless you're looking at the cluster. The aggressive treading on the Michelin CrossClimate2 makes the car stick to the road. I've thrown the car at 60mph on the single lane, narrow & curvey, up and down roads of CT and the tires grips the road. Including in heavy rains. No slipping. The steel braided brake lines coupled with Porterfield brake pads are a real confidence booster.

In all this, I'd be amiss to not to take the opportunity and say a big, loud thanks to @gsxr for being patient, holding my hands and guiding me though the entire process with his advice and correcting me when things kept going south. The emails that I kept sending for advice were almost like a love story with life history included. Also, a big thank you to @gerryvz for rushing the Lamin-X

The first few pics are of the transmission leak, after I drove the car hard 2 weeks ago, in warm weather. I guess the warm weather must have heat up the fluids for the car to start throwing out smoke

 

[smoker]

The car -

 

[a777fan]

Wow. What a saga. Glad you have it back!

Also- i didn’t realize/forgot how well optioned your car was. Has the antenna switch been wired to raise and lower the antenna?

 

[smoker]

Wow. What a saga. Glad you have it back!

Also- i didn’t realize/forgot how well optioned your car was. Has the antenna switch been wired to raise and lower the antenna?

Yep. I couldn't get the ortho switches into the pics. The wool covers it

 

[Jlaa]

@smoker it is so gratifying to see this progress. Given all the "pain and anguish" you have gone through to get to this point, you must be triply savoring in your delight with every bit of incremental progress. Your 420 looks lovely with the machine-finished wheels.

 

[smoker]

@smoker it is so gratifying to see this progress. Given all the pain and anguish you have gone through to get to this point, you must be triply savoring in your delight with every bit of incremental progress. Your 420 looks lovely with the machine-finished wheels.

Thanks

I'm currently searching for excuses to go on long distance drives and drive the car . The mpg that I'm getting is 22, so far.

 

[Bogeyman]

I'll second the look of the wheels. Wish the 036s had that finish originally.