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1989 Porsche 944 S2 project

Removed the shift knob/boot, it was looking really faded and tired, particularly compare to the new steering wheel.

IMG_1839-X2.jpg

Rejuvenated, re-dyed and lotioned to protect, really took years off the looks

IMG_1842-X2.jpg

And the steering wheel fully in and secured

P6180105-XL.jpg

I went for a driver this morning. This steering wheel, I really am not sure how to describe it, but it feels absolutely luscious, with textures and shapes in all the right places, you really don't want to let go of it. Absolutely love it!

Regards,
D
 
So hot outside, I don't do well with project in this weather, but, hands itching to do something...

Tail lights upgrade: 30+ years old tail lights are just that, a bit old and tired. The dumb-dump putty also started to break down at the bottom sections, almost "oooozing" out a bit

factory_tails-L.jpg

factory_tails2-L.jpg

I was eyeballing replacement lenses, were out of stock for few months, got an email few days ago, that these were back in stock and available for purchase.

upgraded_tails_italy-L.jpg

Ordered, arrived, very nice quality, made in Italy. Just going to suck it up and turn of the fan in the garage, should not take too long. I assume the cleanup of the old putty would take the longest.

Regards.
D
 
Man is it hot! Will loose few pounds by tomorrow sure!

Loving these, almost a "modernized facelift", imo, the car look like it shaved off few years of it's age

2022072313050783--2527675145307576323-IMG_1930-X2.jpg

2022072313032919-5714067807123231068-IMG_1933-X2.jpg

The fit and finish is spot on. Replacing all the bulbs too.

Regards,
D
 
After driving on 18" wheels for a while, a bit too harsh, and that is before I lower the car and before Koni shocks/struts. So today I will be picking up a set 17x7.5 and 17x9 late offset wheels that will suit the car a bit better imo...

i-nkCFbdj-XL.jpg

i-MBkmHZP-XL.jpg

i-RC2Ksdc-XL.jpg

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Need serious detail/scrub, but said to be true and damage free otherwise for a very very attractive price. Now to decide on the tires :blink:
 
So I picked up my wheels, couldn't be happier, not heavy at all, need refinishing by my standards, but no curb rash, straight and true. Now to refinishing: Not sure if I want these in stock silver color (picture of 951 from carfarm)

1660081865912.png

I'm almost thinking flat gun metallic?

EDIT: Found this one

1660082207798.png

I think I like it, but would want a bit lighter

1660083122033.png

Decisions decisions...
 
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In my opinion, I also prefer "german silver."
That said, my additional opinion is that colored wheel centers can work on this car, even anthracite / grey, but they must be complemented by a silver lip to look proper. I think the reason why is because cars during this time period always had silver wheel lips .... Examples below.

To my eye, the red 968 with all red cup 17" wheels don't work. The only wheel that works when painted one color without a silver lip, to my eye, are the phone dial wheels.

Unknown.jpeg 48d9b2a6431b9b05ff61f3b5dc89c603.jpg369959fb5c91d20180507123253resized-1569338668268@2x.jpg
teamspeed.com-Yes-Porsche-Built-Lightweight-Clubsport-Version-of-968-4.png
https---hypebeast.com-image-2021-03-porsche-1988-944-turbo-cup-race-car-rad-for-sale-auction-000.jpg

34254732373_7045c27dfb_b.jpg
 
So I picked up my wheels, couldn't be happier, not heavy at all, need refinishing by my standards, but no curb rash, straight and true. Now to refinishing: Not sure if I want these in stock silver color (picture of 951 from carfarm)

View attachment 151744

I'm almost thinking flat gun metallic?

EDIT: Found this one

View attachment 151745

I think I like it, but would want a bit lighter

View attachment 151746

Decisions decisions...
I prefer the original silver finish but it's your car.

lol
 
Nice! I like the shape of those. They suit the car IMHO.

Unsolicited feedback time: i’d defo go with a lighter silver. The darker colors clash with the red IMHO.

#imho 🤣
I have to agree, the standard "German Silver" is a classic, my turbo twists are that color from the factory, and it does look good, very clean and "fresh", but, I get bored... I just went in the garage, looked at my red R129 with "AMG Imola Grau" and I love it too...

I am fan of the original "german silver" but it is your car. This project has come together nicely and the extra sidewall on the 17" should make a big difference. I have Koni FSD on my 1990 Carrera 4 and they are great for the street.
Thanks Ricardo! I indeed look forward to suspension upgrade, I have all the components, just need to make the time to install all the goodies.

In my opinion, I also prefer "german silver."
That said, my additional opinion is that colored wheel centers can work on this car, even anthracite / grey, but they must be complemented by a silver lip to look proper. I think the reason why is because cars during this time period always had silver wheel lips .... Examples below.

To my eye, the red 968 with all red cup 17" wheels don't work. The only wheel that works when painted one color without a silver lip, to my eye, are the phone dial wheels.

View attachment 151752 View attachment 151754View attachment 151753
View attachment 151755
View attachment 151756

View attachment 151757
Thanks for all the eye candy, appreciate it!!! I agree, for most of these bodies, one almost 100% envisions 2 tone wheels with silver/polished or machined lip, at least this is how I remember these cars from many years ago and that is the first thing pops into my head. And my other, "creative" side tells me:

"Everybody has those... Two tone wheels actually look smaller than what they really are compare to a single color wheels, just the optical illusion. You want the badass look... you want that different look"

I can clearly see in the future, when the time comes to actually re-finish the wheels, my brain would be near exploding state in trying to make that decision. That said, red on red - does not work for me either (white on white though has my heart)

These wheels, I like them, I do think they suit the car very well, almost classic, secretly though, I was hoping for turbo twists as on the car now, just in 17... I like the look, smooth spokes, very very easy to clean too. But at $400 for these cup wheels, and local - no brainer! I will "suffer" ;)

On the up side, thanks to @Jlaa , I know the difference in center caps, and what the seller included with these cup wheels are probably off the 16" 944/951 wheels, flat shaped. Concave centers already on their way to better match the wheels ;)

Regards,
D

EDIT: found anther variation I have not seen before, color wise

1660166996905.png
 
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I have to agree, the standard "German Silver" is a classic, my turbo twists are that color from the factory, and it does look good, very clean and "fresh", but, I get bored... I just went in the garage, looked at my red R129 with "AMG Imola Grau" and I love it too...


Thanks Ricardo! I indeed look forward to suspension upgrade, I have all the components, just need to make the time to install all the goodies.


Thanks for all the eye candy, appreciate it!!! I agree, for most of these bodies, one almost 100% envisions 2 tone wheels with silver/polished or machined lip, at least this is how I remember these cars from many years ago and that is the first thing pops into my head. And my other, "creative" side tells me:

"Everybody has those... Two tone wheels actually look smaller than what they really are compare to a single color wheels, just the optical illusion. You want the badass look... you want that different look"

I can clearly see in the future, when the time comes to actually re-finish the wheels, my brain would be near exploding state in trying to make that decision. That said, red on red - does not work for me either (white on white though has my heart)

These wheels, I like them, I do think they suit the car very well, almost classic, secretly though, I was hoping for turbo twists as on the car now, just in 17... I like the look, smooth spokes, very very easy to clean too. But at $400 for these cup wheels, and local - no brainer! I will "suffer" ;)

On the up side, thanks to @Jlaa , I know the difference in center caps, and what the seller included with these cup wheels are probably off the 16" 944/951 wheels, flat shaped. Concave centers already on their way to better match the wheels ;)

Regards,
D

EDIT: found anther variation I have not seen before, color wise

View attachment 152022
Oddly, i don’t hate it…
 
After catching up with your progress I can agree on the wheels in silver. Thats my 2nd pick behind the Fuchs with black center. Of course, you only get them in 16 inch, unless you go custom.

Beautiful day for a drive here as well. Wanted so much to go experience the Chattanooga Motoring festivle. I had to stay home and work on the house.
 
After catching up with your progress I can agree on the wheels in silver.
Most likely will be silver. I love Fuchs, just somehow on 911 cars, not on 944...

Finally got to look at my clutch "function" today: Occasionally, clutch pedal does not return all the way, particularly while nose diving. After reading and researching, there were few options:

1st: Adjust the travel of the pedal - did that last week, helped, but still did it on occasion.
2nd: Bleed the slave cylinder
3rd: Replace the slave cylinder

I figured since I have to remove starter to get to the slave for bleeding access, may as well get the new slave cylinder. Starter removal was not hateful, but of the of the bolts hard to get to.

Got everything loosened up, all but the hard line flare end nut, rusted shut onto the slave. Luckily the bleeder screw gave in and I was able to bleed the old slave.

I will have to get new hard/soft line combo and will replace the slave anyway, but this hast to be done only with replacement of that line

1666472256577.png

Clutch pedal definitely feels better, after the bleed though. When new line arrives, change over should be pretty simple, since al the bolts are now freed up!

Cleaned up and painted/freshened up the old started

i-bMNr74V-X2.jpg

Noticed while back that the car was missing the cooling duct for the alternator, could not find a replacement, so I ordered Neoprene ducting from UK, 60mm ID works perfectly, very well constructed, but what a PITA to secure it to the alternator cooling funnel, sooooo tight up in there!!! I think I know why it was left out by the prior owner.

i-r8sdxdr-XL.jpg
 
50F fall weather and twisties - does it get anymore perfect for the early morning drive?

i-XVzSn6h-X2.jpg

Clutch pedal - huge improvement! Perfect - not quite, but very very driver friendly, also, adjusted the OMP pedal position for a slightly different feel related to the seat position. Much more "usable" on the quick shifts. Still going to replace the slave and the lines, but amazing how little changes can make the car much more pleasant to drive.

i-Z2rJhVq-XL.jpg

Regards,
D
 
A friend of mine has an issue with his oven for powdercoated parts, no eta on component piece for now, so I found an alternative to powdercoating my wheels:

boxter_17_turbo_twists_400-XL.jpg

I couldn't resist the deal, 17x7.5 and 17x9, perfect for this car, so I can have a little more meat on the tires, and they all are in really really great condition! Drive to Charlottesville was great too, beautiful country side!

nc_ohc=Gc8OleZoILQAX8TxDQn&_nc_ht=scontent.fric1-1.jpg

Now to decide on the tires... :gsxr2: And will sell the 18's and the other17's and have some money left for never ending maintenance.
 
There's a guy near me who has been trying to sell a set of early phone dial wheels for $300 for months. I'm amazed no one has snatched them up.

Dan
 
Theres a guy near me who has been trying to sell a set of early phone dial wheels for $300 for months. Im amazed no one has snatched them up.

Dan
My $0.02 on those, while period correct and a good look for these cars, kanda "standard" wheels... Unless someone is looking to replace a damaged wheel, I'll be hard pressed to find a reason purchase a set, particularly that most of them (specially the earlies) are 15"...
 
I realized, it's been a year since I've installed one of these little powered bass modules inside the spare tire:

IMG_1377-XL.jpg

IMG_1381-X2.jpg

I must say, in the all open coupe/hatch car, such as this one, worth every penny and takes no spaces at all. It came with remote knob as well. Very very good addition to the sound system lower end with no fuzz, easy installation, and no sacrifice of cargo room.
 
The weather is warm enough, time to pick up the project... Suspension. Koni dampers and DP Motorsport springs.

IMG_1424-X2.jpg

IMG_1268-X2.jpg

Rears are bolt on... Front are inserts, requires modification factory strut assemblies, those to but precisely cut, drill the bottom secure with the hardware Koni provides.

I don't want to cut up my own units, so I sourced a used set to be used for cores

70231665307__5DE97218-06F1-41B9-8CF4-L.jpg

These look a little "rusty" but actually very solid, just a light surface rust, will transform to like new! Cut these down already, pistons removed...

IMG_2811-X2.jpg
 
Very cool, interested to see and understand how you modify the used set of parts you bought
Cheers Ricardo!

It's a fun (for me) project. Early 924/944 cars came with strut assemblies that utilized removable strut insert with removable collar, and the actual strut cartridge just slides out for an easy replacement. Unfortunately, our later 944 and 968 cars came with the sealed assembly, where one would need to replace the entire unit.

Well, Koni, luckily, still make the inserts, and provide a simple instructions and measurements on how to modify the late stock strut assemblies to accept these adjustable insert. Alternative, is a $1588 kit, where with DP Motorsport springs, Koni adjustable inserts, and hardware, I'm at about 1/3 of that, and the "bragging" rights of completing this conversion myself.

I've cut down to size the spares, took them to a friend's garage this eve to have them sandblasted (I guess I could have just used wire brushes on angle grinder), but I really want to make the set look brand new when I'm done.

Should have these back by the end of the weekend! In the car, next weekend (fingers crossed), waiting on the dust boots and bump stops.

Regards,
D
 
Decided to go ahead and replace the master cylinder... Didn't quite go as planned...

The good:

Fairy easy to get to
QuickJack maiden voyage was flawless, really happy with how it works
Manual clutch pedal pumping no issues
Borrowed power bleeder from a friend, should be a great aid.

The bad:

The moment I connected the power bleeder, at 12-13psi, brake fluid started to pour from inside the car, I assume from the back part of the master cylinder, what's connected to the pedal. And pressure has not returned to the pedal. I assume that the master defective right out of the box...

Another one being shipped from RMEuropean on Mon, will give it another go. And I make a nice gaskets apparently (forgot to buy one, so I had to make it)

IMG_2850-X2.jpg

IMG_2852-XL.jpg

On the positive note, got a txt that my strut housings are ready (blasted to the bare metal, ready for wash and paint):

imagejpeg_0-X2.jpg

Regards,
D
 
Washed and quickly dried these freshly blasted strut assemblies, and epoxy primered

IMG_2857-X2.jpg

I tell you, lots of little crevasses to get into

IMG_2859-X2.jpg

Paint... "School bus yellow" by Duplicolor is what some say very close match to Koni yellow - well, nobody locally has this paint in stock. Walmart however has this

IMG_2864-X2.jpg

Very close match imo (drying still), but I'm happy with results, and considering that most of this under the car, and not really visible, I have no complaints (except for the paint itself, very very runny, and I most certainly not give it "x2 coverage)

IMG_2862-X2.jpg

Good day all in all.
 
Success with Master and Slave cylinders replacement!

It did take what felt like 20 times to bleed (using power bleeder), but at the end, the pedal never felt so firm (not hateful, just solid/firm) Went through three 32oz of fluid, but great pedal at the end! I almost have to re-learn the clutch a bit on this car.

These were old and tired

IMG_2929-XL.jpg

And the new QuickJack (dirty lens on the phone I guess) was worth purchasing just to do these two pieces alone!!!

IMG_2928-X2.jpg

I've had a hard time removing the hardline from the slave (original to the car), and such tight area, so I ended up removing the slave with all the lines attached, soaked in penetrating liquid for few hours and the line gave in! Otherwise, I was going to look for a brake shop to make me new lines.

Pressure is holding, no leaks

IMG_2904-X2.jpg

IMG_2922-XL.jpg

This low pressure line - I'm using worm clamps instead of pinch units, I was praying to God that it would not snap the neck of this reservoir outlet while removing original pinch style clamp, sweating bullets, but all good!

IMG_2903-X2.jpg

 
I can not tell you how happy this car is with the new slave and master cylidners replaced! The cluch is dialed in perfectly (though I did have to re-adjust the pedal rod few 3 times to get that perfect few milimeters play)

clutch_pedal.jpg

Great oil pressure, great clutch, charging fine, enjoyable morning drive

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Success with Master and Slave cylinders replacement!
It did take what felt like 20 times to bleed (using power bleeder), but at the end, the pedal never felt so firm (not hateful, just solid/firm) Went through three 32oz of fluid, but great pedal at the end! I almost have to re-learn the clutch a bit on this car.
Why did it take so many cans of fluid to bleed the clutch slave / master cylinder? Was there air being introduced into the system somehow? Just curious. For what it is worth, my slave that I replaced in Feb was about 10 years old and had not been bled since --- when I power-bled it (wet) the fluid came out black.


Ive had a hard time removing the hardline from the slave (original to the car), and such tight area, so I ended up removing the slave with all the lines attached, soaked in penetrating liquid for few hours and the line gave in! Otherwise, I was going to look for a brake shop to make me new lines.

View attachment 164786
The above is the union between the softline that goes to the slave and the hardline that is part of the chassis of the car right? I had to use a lot of torque to get that off. I replaced the softlink (10 years old) after getting this connection loose. I read that the softlink disintegrates from the inside over time. Are you saying you had to keep this connection together and disconnect the hardline at the other end and having to remove the whole thing that way?!?! Anyways I recognize the union ---

IMG_5885 Large.jpeg
 
Why did it take so many cans of fluid to bleed the clutch slave / master cylinder? Was there air being introduced into the system somehow? Just curious. For what it is worth, my slave that I replaced in Feb was about 10 years old and had not been bled since --- when I power-bled it (wet) the fluid came out black.
Aperently, 944s' are notorious for having very hard time to bleed the lines, there are horrors storries, there are tutorial, there are countless threads and online manuals, and it certainly took about 30 min just to bleed, and yes, almost x3 32oz bottles. Somehow, a little bit of air bubbles get trapped in this system, and with each bleed, you get less and less. Eventually, after 6-7 go - no bubbles! I guess it just the way it is? Some suggest "reverse bleeding" is the only way to do it in a shortest time with only one 32oz bottle.

The above is the union between the softline that goes to the slave and the hardline that is part of the chassis of the car right? I had to use a lot of torque to get that off. I replaced the softlink (10 years old) after getting this connection loose. I read that the softlink disintegrates from the inside over time. Are you saying you had to keep this connection together and disconnect the hardline at the other end and having to remove the whole thing that way?!?! Anyways I recognize the union ---
So the line to the slave was completely frozen (the hard section)... That soft section also didn't budge, hardly any leverage in that area, very hard to get there, so the only way I could remove it, was a complete line from master all the way down to slave (while attached to the slave) and work on the bench.

I'm keeping up with your thread on the cluch for your 911! Hopefully with new length line you get your car back in the road! I never even thoght of looking at the upgraded slave/master!
 
This popped up locally. You may not know it but you are a threat to my financial future.

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In 1998, I stopped by a local used car dealership, just to look... 1986 944 Turbo, LSD, 69K miles for $6900... That was a loooooong time ago! About the same time with early 80's basic narrow bodies 911 could have been purchased for $11-$12k :doh:
 
Finally, now that the temperatures dropped, mornings in the 50's and low 60's, actually pleasure to work in the garage!

Downsized... Those 17" turbo twists I purchased in Feb - are on the car!

IMG_3537-X2.jpg

I did like the look of these in 18" but the wheel/tire combo was really really stiff. 17" still look, good, and the car feels considerably more balanced, easier to steer but equally important more comfortable ride! Not going to miss 18" on this car much at all! Best $400 I've spent on this car!

Had to check my records, but it's bee a year and a half since the oil change (just under 3K), changed this am too. Love that I can use MB tool on Porsche, perfect fit for the filter

IMG_3534-X2.jpg

Good for another 3K

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Now to decide on the tires (used Bridgestones came with 17" are fine for few months, and balanced really really perfect), but will need replacement...

Regards,
D
 

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