OWNER DJ RaMiN (E420)

[DJ RaMiN]

Bumpers!

Bumpers on this car have some scuffs and marks (courtesy of the 70 years old lady/original owner). Front is not that bad, but rear definitely needs to be painted. Now I'm thinking, this might be a great opportunity to get something better looking? AMG bumpers if I can find any would be great. Is it just me or the Gen I bumpers that have more square look to them look better/more aggressive on this cars? I mean Gen II makes more sense on my facelift car, but I love Gen I more.

And I'm here trying to pick one, like I have both readily available.

Gen I bumper on facelift:

 

[asultan]

My wife's SL500 wheels, I need to refinish them and get some rubber for them to use on the E420. I really want 225/50/16s, but thinking 205/55/16 is the ideal size. As far as the paint. I got the Wurth wheel paint, which I heard it has the closest match to factory MB wheel color. I still need to get some primer and clear for the project. The Wurth paint alone is about $40 a can! I don't want to go broke and get the primer and clear from Wurth as well lol. Maybe an alternative/cheaper brand that can be purchased locally? Maybe don't even use clear on them? Any recommendation is welcome!

View attachment 154758
View attachment 154759

If you’re using aerosol cans, use 2K epoxy primer from eastwood, and 2k Clear as well, best i’ve used thus far without using a gun + compressor

 

[gsxr]

Gen 2 with facelift. Bare bumper is still available new but $$$$. And, you'll need to get a 3D-printed tow hook cover... and shell out even more $$$$ for the matching auxiliary high beam driving lights (NOT FOG LIGHTS! THERE IS A DIFFERENCE!)

 

[maw1124]

Gen 2 with facelift. Bare bumper is still available new but $$$$. And, you'll need to get a 3D-printed tow hook cover... and shell out even more $$$$ for the matching auxiliary high beam driving lights (NOT FOG LIGHTS! THERE IS A DIFFERENCE!)

Or… get an eBay reproduction off eBay from Latvia, make it fit, and no one’s the wiser. Choice is yours but for a non AMG car, I know which way I’d go. A friend has the real deal stuff, and the AMG symbol is so small I don’t know why he bothered, and this on a .036. Actually I do know why, because he's my friend -- same reason I bother with Kobe Like Details. But he also has the rear bumper and side skirts.

The people on this Board are likely the only people who know or care about the difference (didn’t someone here sell one not long ago?). Now, if it was a 6.0L AMG conversion you’d get a completely different answer.

maw

 

[DJ RaMiN]

If you’re using aerosol cans, use 2K epoxy primer from eastwood, and 2k Clear as well, best i’ve used thus far without using a gun + compressor

Great, thank you!

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Gen 2 with facelift. Bare bumper is still available new but $$$$. And, you'll need to get a 3D-printed tow hook cover... and shell out even more $$$$ for the matching auxiliary high beam driving lights (NOT FOG LIGHTS! THERE IS A DIFFERENCE!)

Yeah, I know it would cost a lot to do it right. If I get lucky with a good used set, it would be great. I'm not in a hurry, so I'll wait. But the thought that even the new ones wont be available soon also bothers me, so I might get crazy and pay for a new one.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Or… get an eBay reproduction off eBay from Latvia, make it fit, and no one’s the wiser. Choice is yours but for a non AMG car, I know which way I’d go. A friend has the real deal stuff, and the AMG symbol is so small I don’t know why he bothered, and this on a .036. Actually I do know why, because he's my friend -- same reason I bother with Kobe Like Details. But he also has the rear bumper and side skirts.

The people on this Board are likely the only people who know or care about the difference (didn’t someone here sell one not long ago?). Now, if it was a 6.0L AMG conversion you’d get a completely different answer.

maw

Yeah, I see those on eBay. I wish someone made those from plastic, instead of fiberglass. Not a big fan of fiberglass. But again, not sure if fiberglass nowadays is better than early 2000s, where they cracked with a tiny impact.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Hey guys, how's it going? Hope all is well.
I did more work on the E420!

So according to my to-do list, I was supposed to do the coolant flush, but discovered some "oh noes" when removing the splash guard.
The lower radiator hose was leaking from two ends, the connection to the radiator and the water pump side.



Also noticed the bottom left side of the radiator was wet. Later discovered it was the nipple on top left of the radiator that was leaking and it was running down on that side.



So I ordered a new lower radiator hose and nipple with O-ring. Also got a new thermostat and the short L shaped hose. Figured might as well replace those while I'm in there.

Coolant mixed with distilled water, also got a hose for draining both blocks and radiator.



Broken radiator drain plug. I mean it looked all fine, but when I was inspecting the car I touched it and it fell apart. Had to use a soldering iron to melt a slot to fit a flat headed screw driver in and was able to unscrew it.



Anyways, I drained about 8.5 quarts from the radiator and both blocks combined.
New coolant vs. old coolant. Notice how the old coolant is orange!



Removing the old radiator nipple took some time! I used the method in the manual with a 9mm straight ring wrench and a flat head. I didn't want it to break and pieces fall into the radiator so I took my time on this part of the job. I later talked to my friend who is a MB technician and he said when the radiator nipple leaks we usually just replace the whole radiator!



New radiator nipple vs. old one. See how the O-ring is so flat on the old one (bottom), it looks like it's part of the nipple.





Replaced the thermostat and the short L shaped hose connection between thermostat and the water pump.
Replaced the lower radiator hose and started filling up the system from the top radiator connection, then the coolant reservoir. Started the car and went under the car to see if anything is leaking didn't find any leaks. Got the car to operating temperature, where the thermostat opens up. This allowed the coolant level to go down so I added more coolant Went under the car again and inspected everything. Didn't see anything leaking. Took the car for a short drive and came back home. Again inspected the system for leaks and didn't see anything.

Next morning I noticed there was coolant under the car!
Coolant was leaking from the same places like the old hose!




This is where I messed up. I should have read about this before ordering the parts. So I got the Rein/CRP hose from RM European. Old hose was also CRP.
I started searching the web to see whats the issue and noticed that this is a known issue with Rein/CRP brand! I've used this brand years before for my 190E and E46 with no problems, but I guess they are no longer reliable.

Called the dealership and bought genuine hose (3x the price of Rein).



Notice how the old hose has bigger opening than the MB one!




Anyways, drained the radiator again and replaced the hose and filled up the system. Been checking the car daily and thank god, it has not lost a single drop of coolant!

Now I have to figure out how to return this to RM European.

 

[gsxr]

Nice work! And this is the first report I've seen where an aftermarket hose may have actually been the wrong size, causing a leak... aye caramba. The new OE hose should last the life of the car.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Nice work! And this is the first report Ive seen where an aftermarket hose may have actually been the wrong size, causing a leak... aye caramba. The new OE hose should last the life of the car.

Thank you! I hate doing the same work twice, but I'm glad I got it done right. As I said, I should have checked here before ordering the parts.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

So these past few weeks I did some more work on the E420.

Transmission service:

When I first got the car, I noticed that it was leaking a bit of ATF, nothing significant. I even checked the fluid level after driving on the freeway for about 30 mins and the level was ok. So I didn't drive the car for about two weeks and when I got back to it, noticed there was a puddle of transmission fluid underneath the car. Like a 10 inch diameter circle. It wasn't that wet and fresh, so I'm not sure how much of it soaked into the concrete. So I added about 1/3 quart of ATF and drove the car on the freeway for about 30 mins and checked the fluid level and it was about 2 mm above the max line. The leaking got worse and worse. This time I decided it was time to do the transmission service. Wasn't sure when the service was done but the fluid still looked clear red.

So I decided to go under the car and look for the source of the leak. I immediately noticed the pan gasket was not sitting correctly on the passenger side right at the end. Cleaned the area and drove the car and inspected it again and didn't see anything leaking above the pan. So I concluded that the pan gasket is the source. I also noticed the transmission line from the radiator to the metal line on the passenger side was wet as well.

Pan gasket not sitting correctly:



I bought the parts from the dealership. Pan gasket, drain plugs, crush washers. transmission line. I also bought the three o-rings and crush washers for the kick-down solenoid just in case since I read somewhere that it's a common leak area.
As far as ATF. I had 9 quarts of Total Dexron III H that I bought from pelican parts a few years back to do the service on the 190E and ended up not doing the service because of manual swap.



Back to work:

Drained both pan and the torque converter. Of course I removed the center pipe for no mess drainage of the torque converter.



Center pipe's bolts and nuts were a bit rusty so I left them in Evapo-Rust for a few hours.



Pan removed, you can see where the gasket turned.



Also the paint on the same area on the pan is a bit flaky. Looks like it was sprayed with brake fluid . The paint on the top part was still intact and smooth. So I decided that the pan is ok to reuse.



Both pan gasket and filter were aftermarket (Meyle) and the date stamp (2014) on the filter suggests that they did the service around that time or so.



Anyways, cleaned the pan thoroughly. Replaced the filter and put on the new genuine gasket on the pan. Applied a little clean ATF to the pan, to both sides of the rubber gasket, and locked the gasket in place with the two tabs that engage with the pan's lip as Gerry suggested in his "How to" article.

Put the pan with the new gasket back on and tightened the 6 bolts to 8 NM. New drain plugs with new crush washers installed and tightened to 14 NM.

Moved to the front of the car and replaced the transmission line.

It was time to fill up the transmission. I added 5 quarts of ATF then started the engine and moved the gear selector to each position briefly, then shut it down and poured in 3 more quarts of ATF.

Went under the car and didn't see anything leaking. Took the car for a 30 mins freeway drive and came back and checked the fluid level. it was about 3 mm above max line. Car drove great. shifts were amazing. It shifted ok prior to the service but I felt the difference after new fluid. (the feeling when your car says "Thank you") lol.

Anyways a week passed by and I checked everything and didn't see a single drop of oil on the ground.

Plan is to get a better ATF (maybe synthetic) and flush the system again. I'm not too sure how good Total ATF is, plus it's been sitting in my garage for a few years so I don't feel that good about it.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

On to the next service.

190E out, E420 in!



Power steering:

While I was doing the transmission service I noticed the power steering was leaking a little. After some investigation I noticed the source of the leak was the small hose connection from the reservoir to the pump (Common leak area).

Got the new parts, hose, gasket, reservoir return line O-ring, aluminum crush washer and some PSF.



Removing the reservoir was a bit painful and time consuming because whoever was there before used some kinda grey gasket maker on top of the gasket and it was horrible! They even used that on the O-ring for the return line!



I noticed the top part of the old hose was cut differently, more like a 45° angle cut. For the new one I did the same kinda cut at first then noticed that's not right, so I did a regular O cut and put it in place.




Cleaning and removing the old grey gasket maker from the bottom of the reservoir and its sitting area took an hour of my time . I had to be careful to not scratch the surface.

Old gasket was just breaking into pieces.




Anyways, I put everything back together and refilled the reservoir to the specified mark and checked for leaks and didn't see anything.

Drove the car for a few days and the fluid level stayed the same, no visible leaks when checked from under. So we're good to go!

 

[DJ RaMiN]

The next service!

Oil and filter change.

Nothing special to point out here. As I mentioned before I got the Liqui Moly Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5W40) from FCP. And probably for the next service go with what you guys suggested.

I also got the "European No Spill Oil Funnel Kit" from CTA. I highly recommend it:

European No Spill Oil Funnel Kit - EURONOSPILLKIT

European No Spill Oil Funnel Kit - EURONOSPILLKIT

www.fcpeuro.com

It can hold the 5 liter jug! (I would not recommend doing that when the jug is full!)



I also got a sample of the oil to send to blackstone labs for oil analysis. I always do that when I get a used car. It kinda tells you the health of the engine.



Need to find a place to stick this service reminder sticker. Any suggestions?



Now that I have done some of the important maintenance on the E420. It will have to stay out for a few days so I can do some work on the SL500.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Suspension question!

I have a Bilstein B8 kit that I used on my 190E for a few months till I got coilovers for it. I also have a set of R129 SL500 springs.

Now, before I go with the full Sportline suspension on the E420 (That's the master plan). Can I just go with what I have in stock now as a temporary setup? lol

I know the Bilstein B8 front struts need some kinda modifications to work on V8 w124s. IIRC it uses a larger M14 bolt at the bottom instead of M12. Not sure if it's the middle bolt or the two short bottom bolts.

As far as springs, I know SL500 is about 500 pounds heavier than E420. Does it make sense to cut the SL500 springs a little to use them in this project?

TIA!

 

[TerryA]

Suspension question!

I have a Bilstein B8 kit that I used on my 190E for a few months till I got coilovers for it. I also have a set of R129 SL500 springs.

Now, before I go with the full Sportline suspension on the E420 (Thats the master plan). Can I just go with what I have in stock now as a temporary setup? lol

I know the Bilstein B8 front struts need some kinda modifications to work on V8 w124s. IIRC it uses a larger M14 bolt at the bottom instead of M12. Not sure if its the middle bolt or the two short bottom bolts.

As far as springs, I know SL500 is about 500 pounds heavier than E420. Does it make sense to cut the SL500 springs a little to use them in this project?

TIA!

DJ, Just a suggestion but if the E420’s springs are OK I would wait on the suspension upgrade until you get the “Sportline” suspension bits.

My experience with cutting springs on my old 300E was a complete waste of time. When I was done it road like a buckboard. My experience with cutting springs seemed to make them stiffer. At least it seemed that way.

I think using the SL500 springs and or cutting them down would be a similar experience. Get the correct springs for the sportline suspension and be done with it.

I ended up using Eibachs X4. It helped but not enough. I had installed new stock MB shocks X4 also after Eibach said they would work great! They didn’t so next I put new adjustable Koni Reds on the front. This also helped because the rebound is adjustable. The whole lowering process for me was a cluster f$&k. I was also running 17” Monoblocks w/ 225/45-17 Michelin tires. I never liked the ride after that. My final solution was to change the Michelin tires to a 215/50-17 size. It finally smoothed it out.

The car looked great but what a PITA to get there. Stick with proven parts of the Sportline suspension and save yourself the trouble. Do it right and do it once. You won’t be sorry.

I believe “a777fan” has the Sportline suspension on his E420.

Take Care

PS: Don’t do this job without the proper MB spring compressor.

 

[gerryvz]

Those Rein/CRP lower radiator hoses are absolute JUNK. OE MB is the ONLY way to go for these hoses.

The nipples at the top of the radiator do go bad with time, and they are cheap, so it is a good idea to have a spare on hand for when they are needed. They are a consumable, separate part as you know, and DO NOT necessarily mean that the radiator should be replaced. If the radiator is not leaking otherwise, it should not require replacement. That said, radiators do go bad, and are a good idea to replace.

You have two or three options - the Nissens, an OE MB Behr unit, or an aftermarket pedestrian-line Behr unit. The aftermarket Behr units are cheap and made overseas, and NOT worth the time or effort. The Nissens is good - but they have gone downhill since Nissens stopped making them in Denmark. There may still be some new old stock Denmark made Nissens around, but buyer beware. If you cannot get a Denmark made Nissens - in my opinion not worth the effort.

The last ones are the MB OE Behr units, which are more expensive, but made in South Africa and still the best way to go for long-term owners. You can see my saga of replacing a Nissens Denmark unit, which I had installed when I lived in Texas, with a South Africa made Behr unit, in my 2020 COVID Engine Bay Refresh thread.

 

[gerryvz]

Nice work! And this is the first report Ive seen where an aftermarket hose may have actually been the wrong size, causing a leak... aye caramba. The new OE hose should last the life of the car.

The Rein/CRP lower hoses also leak from the seam where the off-shoot hose is fused onto the main hose. That is what I see in one of the photos.

 

[gsxr]

I have a Bilstein B8 kit that I used on my 190E for a few months till I got coilovers for it. I also have a set of R129 SL500 springs.

Now, before I go with the full Sportline suspension on the E420 (Thats the master plan). Can I just go with what I have in stock now as a temporary setup? lol

I know the Bilstein B8 front struts need some kinda modifications to work on V8 w124s. IIRC it uses a larger M14 bolt at the bottom instead of M12. Not sure if its the middle bolt or the two short bottom bolts.

It's the single/upper "pinch" bolt. See if the M14 bolt will fit through the B8 hole, if not, enlarge the hole just enough so it clears. Otherwise, plug & play, no problems putting the B8's on the 034.

As far as springs, I know SL500 is about 500 pounds heavier than E420. Does it make sense to cut the SL500 springs a little to use them in this project?

I know nothing about R129 springs, or if they will offer any advantage... no idea what you are getting yourself into here. I'd leave the stock springs alone for now, unless you have lots of time on your hands for experimenting. You'd have to install, measure, estimate how much to cut, remove, cut, install, measure, repeat. Not fun. Or, you can cut your stock springs slightly (try 1/4 coil at a time) if you just want it a bit lower.

 

[gerryvz]

Anyways, I put everything back together and refilled the reservoir to the specified mark and checked for leaks and didnt see anything.

Drove the car for a few days and the fluid level stayed the same, no visible leaks when checked from under. So were good to go!

Following up, MAKE SURE you re-torque the transmission pan bolts after a week or so, as the rubber pan gasket compresses gradually. Just snug each one a smidge, maybe a quarter turn (or use your torque wrench for the requisite 8-9 Nm).

Same for the two clamps on the short hose between the PS reservoir and PS pump. Get a long screwdriver in there and snug down each clamp, as the short hose compresses and gets squishy when exposed to the PS fluid after a while. This will keep it from seeping, and is a good thing to re-visit on an annual basis with a flashlight and a long screwdriver.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

DJ, Just a suggestion but if the E420’s springs are OK I would wait on the suspension upgrade until you get the “Sportline” suspension bits.

My experience with cutting springs on my old 300E was a complete waste of time. When I was done it road like a buckboard. My experience with cutting springs seemed to make them stiffer. At least it seemed that way.

I think using the SL500 springs and or cutting them down would be a similar experience. Get the correct springs for the sportline suspension and be done with it.

I ended up using Eibachs X4. It helped but not enough. I had installed new stock MB shocks X4 also after Eibach said they would work great! They didn’t so next I put new adjustable Koni Reds on the front. This also helped because the rebound is adjustable. The whole lowering process for me was a cluster f$&k. I was also running 17” Monoblocks w/ 225/45-17 Michelin tires. I never liked the ride after that. My final solution was to change the Michelin tires to a 215/50-17 size. It finally smoothed it out.

The car looked great but what a PITA to get there. Stick with proven parts of the Sportline suspension and save yourself the trouble. Do it right and do it once. You won’t be sorry.

I believe “a777fan” has the Sportline suspension on his E420.

Take Care

PS: Don’t do this job without the proper MB spring compressor.

Hey Terry!

Thank you for all the info! You are right, I'll just go with Sportline springs. Its too much work to do it any other way. I've been actually following @a777fan 's thread, He's been doing some great stuff, and that is my plan as well.

As far as the spring compressor. I usually borrow the tool from my friend. I've used it on my 190E a several times and it makes the job to go much smoother!

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Those Rein/CRP lower radiator hoses are absolute JUNK. OE MB is the ONLY way to go for these hoses.

The nipples at the top of the radiator do go bad with time, and they are cheap, so it is a good idea to have a spare on hand for when they are needed. They are a consumable, separate part as you know, and DO NOT necessarily mean that the radiator should be replaced. If the radiator is not leaking otherwise, it should not require replacement. That said, radiators do go bad, and are a good idea to replace.

You have two or three options - the Nissens, an OE MB Behr unit, or an aftermarket pedestrian-line Behr unit. The aftermarket Behr units are cheap and made overseas, and NOT worth the time or effort. The Nissens is good - but they have gone downhill since Nissens stopped making them in Denmark. There may still be some new old stock Denmark made Nissens around, but buyer beware. If you cannot get a Denmark made Nissens - in my opinion not worth the effort.

The last ones are the MB OE Behr units, which are more expensive, but made in South Africa and still the best way to go for long-term owners. You can see my saga of replacing a Nissens Denmark unit, which I had installed when I lived in Texas, with a South Africa made Behr unit, in my 2020 COVID Engine Bay Refresh thread.

Yes! No more Rein/CRP for me!

Thank you for the info on the radiators, very informative! I'm glad my radiator is fine and I just had to replace the nipple.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

The Rein/CRP lower hoses also leak from the seam where the off-shoot hose is fused onto the main hose. That is what I see in one of the photos.

Still not sure why they keep selling these defective hoses!

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Its the single/upper pinch bolt. See if the M14 bolt will fit through the B8 hole, if not, enlarge the hole just enough so it clears. Otherwise, plug & play, no problems putting the B8s on the 034.




I know nothing about R129 springs, or if they will offer any advantage... no idea what you are getting yourself into here. Id leave the stock springs alone for now, unless you have lots of time on your hands for experimenting. Youd have to install, measure, estimate how much to cut, remove, cut, install, measure, repeat. Not fun. Or, you can cut your stock springs slightly (try 1/4 coil at a time) if you just want it a bit lower.

Oh I see, I'll test it out with a spare M14 bolt! Thank you!

As far as the springs, like I told Terry, I'll just stick with Sportline springs. You guys are right, its too much work to cut, instal and measure.

I noticed the front struts were leaking a bit while I was under the car. That's what made me think of doing the suspension work sooner. Also of course the wheel gab bothers me a bit, so I do want it to sit a bit lower.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Following up, MAKE SURE you re-torque the transmission pan bolts after a week or so, as the rubber pan gasket compresses gradually. Just snug each one a smidge, maybe a quarter turn (or use your torque wrench for the requisite 8-9 Nm).

Same for the two clamps on the short hose between the PS reservoir and PS pump. Get a long screwdriver in there and snug down each clamp, as the short hose compresses and gets squishy when exposed to the PS fluid after a while. This will keep it from seeping, and is a good thing to re-visit on an annual basis with a flashlight and a long screwdriver.

Oh! Thank you for telling me this. I did not know that part. I'll do that ASAP!

As far as the clamps. I was not too happy with the old ones, but I did clean them and reused them. Did Mercedes ever change them to a different design or they're still the same if you get them brand new? Or is there a recommended different version?

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Some SL500 work:

This car had K&N air filters on it when we got it. I hate those filters, because if you don't clean them and oil them properly, they could do some harm. I replaced them with proper OE air filters. While doing that I noticed the MAF mesh was very dirty with yellowish oil residue and that's probably because of not maintaining the filter properly.




Took the MAF sensor out and noticed the throttle valve was dirty with the same stuff. Anyways, I cleaned everything up and the car can breathe easily now!




Next service on SL is the VCGs. Passenger side leaks, but driver side is ok. Of course I will replace both. Please let me know if there are any tips or tricks related to this service, before I jump on it.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Oh, I almost forgot to share this!

I got something exciting for the E420!
So I saw a 1993 400SEL at pick-n-pull while I was there to get something for my other car a while back.

Went under it and saw that it has the 2.82 Non-ASR diff! So I was like oh I have to get this! Called up my brother-in-law and thankfully he was able to join me and help me remove this thing.

So the plan is to swap in the 2.82 diff after replacing the side seals and re-sealing the rear cover. Then I have to figure out the speedo correction.



I'm really excited for this!

 

[DJ RaMiN]

I just found out about Goeckel! I did see some posts talking about their body kits here. I also saw some old posts (20 years old!) on different forums on the web talking about them as well. Looks like they've been around for a while! These guys have everything! Plus a lot of info/details on parts on their website. I have yet to find someone that has their kit on their car, but I kinda think they might have better quality stuff than other replica makers around.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

A few months before I got the E420, I bought a headlight lamp level range control switch for the R129. The guy had the vacuum lines and a W124 trim with it as a package. I was like hmmm maybe one day I will own a W124 so I could use these on it!



I believe I just need a pair of actuator motors and some vacuum connections to get this going.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Hey guys, happy new year!

So I wanted to replace the valve cover gaskets on the SL and decided to check the PCV hoses before starting the job. Of course they were brittle, so I stopped and went ahead and ordered new hoses and clamps. At the same time I noticed the power steering S hose was leaking on the E420, so I added that to my order too.

I decided to go with MBdirectpars since they had better pricing. After I ordered the parts, they sent me an email and said the clamp for the S hose part # 005-997-27-90/000000-000948 and the clamp/loom tie for the PCV hose part # 126-997-06-90 are discontinued.

So I told them to remove those from the order and send the rest. I received the package today and I have a feeling that something is wrong!

For the clamp/ loom tie for the bigger PCV hose on the left valve cover, part # 117-997-01-90. They sent me 005-997-01-90, which is a totally different kind of clamp. But on their website it says 005-997-01-90 Replaces 117-997-01-90!

The clamp I received:

The clamp I needed:

Website:


Also for the power steering hose (Short hose under the reservoir) clamps part # 005-997-45-90, I received 000000-000667. These are much bigger than the actual clamps on the car! But again on their website it says 000000-000667 Replaces 005-997-45-90!

Diameter of 000000-000667 is 36mm.
Diameter of 005-997-45-90 is 26mm.

The clamp I received:

The clamp I needed:

Website:

So what do you guys think?

 

[gsxr]

Their website is likely showing the Paragon data, which is the MB dealer part inventory system. Sometimes the replacement part number is functionally equivalent, for example the PVC hose clamp, if the size is correct the worm-gear type should work ok in place of the spring type. For the P/S clamp, check the diameter needed for the hose. The clamp you received is marked 20-32mm range which may be acceptable.

That said, there are many "bad" part number rolls (supercessions) in Paragon, where the new/replacement part is not functionally equivalent. For example the M119 fan clutch bolt is NLA and the replacement part is a Torx head, not hex head. What's the problem with that? Well, the special tools used to remove the fan clutch only work with hex head bolts! Some bean counter thought that just having the size/thread/shape matching was ok, but it's not, in that particular case.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Their website is likely showing the Paragon data, which is the MB dealer part inventory system. Sometimes the replacement part number is functionally equivalent, for example the PVC hose clamp, if the size is correct the worm-gear type should work ok in place of the spring type. For the P/S clamp, check the diameter needed for the hose. The clamp you received is marked 20-32mm range which may be acceptable.

That said, there are many bad part number rolls (supercessions) in Paragon, where the new/replacement part is not functionally equivalent. For example the M119 fan clutch bolt is NLA and the replacement part is a Torx head, not hex head. Whats the problem with that? Well, the special tools used to remove the fan clutch only work with hex head bolts! Some bean counter thought that just having the size/thread/shape matching was ok, but its not, in that particular case.

Thank you, Dave!

Oh I see! As for the PVC, I'll just use the old spring clamp. Having the worm-gear type clamp there doesn't look right IMO.

For the PS clamp, the old one I have is marked 12-20mm range. New one is also wider!

 

[gsxr]

For the PS clamp, the old one I have is marked 12-20mm range. New one is also wider!

If the original part number was 12-20 range, and the replacement is 20-32... that sure looks like a bad supercession. Shame on Mercedes, if this is accurate.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

If the original part number was 12-20 range, and the replacement is 20-32... that sure looks like a bad supercession. Shame on Mercedes, if this is accurate.

Shame on Mercedes indeed! They sent me a second order with "correct clamps" and when I checked them, guess what? They sent me the same wrong ones again! When I told them about it, the parts guy apologized and said he will personally buy me the correct ones and send them over. A month passed by and nothing happened. I emailed the parts guy and he said sorry looks like all they have is the wrong ones! So I told him its fine don't worry about it any more.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Hey guys! Long time. Hope all is well with everyone.

Here are some updates from me:

My wife and I were planning to buy a house within a year or so, then I got laid off from work. And on top of that the owner of the townhouse we were renting decided to sell their house as well. So we got the 60 days notice, but that wasn't enough time to search for a house to buy. We ended up renting again. We moved into a duplex and next door is my mom!

I lost the two car garage (the townhouse), but gained an 8 cars driveway (4 from my mom's side and 4 on ours) and a single garage, which I'm using to store my hoard lol.

Now the question is, what should I do for the cars outside? Get car covers for every single car? Another idea is a shade sail. I like them better than canopies. What do you guys think?


Here is a photo from my security camera:



This place has noice sunsets!

 

[gsxr]

Now the question is, what should I do for the cars outside? Get car covers for every single car? Another idea is a shade sail. I like them better than canopies. What do you guys think?

Car covers outdoors are more for short-term storage, and quality covers are $$$. Once dust gets underneath and the wind blows it a little, it rubs the dirt into your paint. Be careful if you go that route. A canopy to keep sun off the cars would be a huge help though, UV rays are brutal on everything.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Car covers outdoors are more for short-term storage, and quality covers are $$$. Once dust gets underneath and the wind blows it a little, it rubs the dirt into your paint. Be careful if you go that route. A canopy to keep sun off the cars would be a huge help though, UV rays are brutal on everything.

Yeah, that's why I don't like car covers that much. I'm scared of canopies these days. You probably heard about the strong winds in California. Those will definitely rip it a part! But shade sails look kinda promising and if something happens to them they won't do much damage. I just need to add a post or two and the rest of the corners can be hooked to the wall. Landlord is ok with it too.

As far as car covers, I got the custom fit ones from coverking $$$. Haven't got one for the 190E yet. My concern is the EVO I spoiler. The cover for a regular 16v might work. I'll have to figure it out.

Google image photo of a shade sail setup and a w124! :

 

[DJ RaMiN]

I was in Sacramento this past weekend and while I was there, decided to check the Row52 app to see if there was anything interesting nearby. Found a 92 400E and remembered someone said certain LH modules from the 92 models will add about 15 hp to the 94-95 E420s and the modification is just plug and play! So I went ahead and checked the part number on it and confirmed it was the right one and got the module out of the car for $30!

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Hey guys!

Been a while! Hope all is well.
Saw this clean E500 in Los Gatos, CA. Anyone know the owner? Is he/she on here?

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Hey guys!

Some E420 update!

Few months ago:
The LH module that I got from pick n pull, got the capacitor issue. As soon as I installed it, the fuel relay started clicking and idle got rough. So that was a bust. Original module went back in. But I'll get the capacitors and will repair it at some point.

More recent:
Been driving the E420 around once or twice a week. It's been a few hot summer days here in NorCal, so we stayed home mostly and I didn't drive it for about a week, I started the car yesterday morning and noticed the aux fan turned on and car got kinda loud and it was idling high (1200). Was kinda strange happening in the morning (temp was like 60°F). Put the car in gear and stated driving and noticed the rpm started bouncing and car got kinda jumpy. Stopped a little and rpm stopped bouncing and got stable but idle was still high. Drove around and restarted the car and everything got back to normal. But! I noticed the air conditioning got some issues too. I believe the blower motor is dead (Very sudden, everything was fine before, didn't make any noise to indicate its starting to die). Pressing buttons and nothing happens. I could hear the AC kinda hissing in the beginning and feel the cold air a bit when have my hand on the vent. But no fan at all. Checked the fuses and all were good.


Here is another strange thing! So I started the car this morning and everything was fine and after a few mins the rpm started going higher and higher. So at the same time I started pushing the AC buttons and as soon as I pressed some of the buttons (EC, 0, Fan low, Auto, Fan high) the rpm would jump even higher with each button pressed! I also noticed the outside temp display reading 108°F and it just kept going higher. Went to 117°F when I turned off the car!

So I checked the DM and got code 6 (Idle speed control faulty). No SES though. Cleared the code and restarted the car and no more idle issues so far.

Now I'm kinda confused! Any ideas?

 

[Gatorblue92]

Not sure about the idle but I would suspect the blower regulator is the likely culprit for the lack of any A/C fan movement. Mine would only work on low before it completely failed.

 

[gsxr]

Sounds like you have multiple issues here.

DM code 6 should trigger the CEL. Clearing the code should not cure the problem, restarting the car may cure it temporarily. Could be a vacuum leak, ETA problem, or T/LLR problem.

Dead HVAC blower motor could be the 30A strip fuse, did you check that too? Ignition switch and blower regulator are also possible faults.

Outside temp display should not increase with the car stationary. The LCD may not be receiving the correct speed signal, or the display could be defective.

Also wouldn't hurt to check voltage with the engine running...

 

[DJ RaMiN]

Not sure about the idle but I would suspect the blower regulator is the likely culprit for the lack of any A/C fan movement. Mine would only work on low before it completely failed.

Thanks, will chek it out!

Sounds like you have multiple issues here.

DM code 6 should trigger the CEL. Clearing the code should not cure the problem, restarting the car may cure it temporarily. Could be a vacuum leak, ETA problem, or T/LLR problem.

Dead HVAC blower motor could be the 30A strip fuse, did you check that too? Ignition switch and blower regulator are also possible faults.

Outside temp display should not increase with the car stationary. The LCD may not be receiving the correct speed signal, or the display could be defective.

Also wouldn't hurt to check voltage with the engine running...

Yes, all of a sudden the car got multiple issues!
I checked the 30A strip fuse too. Visually it looked ok.

Gotta find my multimeter and start checking stuff. Haven't used it since the move.

Just a thought, could a faulty ambient temperature sensor cause some of these issues?
The ambient temperature data is put on the engine and body CAN network to be distributed to the control units needing the information such as the A/C control unit, engine control unit, instrument cluster etc etc.

 

[gsxr]

Yes, all of a sudden the car got multiple issues!
I checked the 30A strip fuse too. Visually it looked ok.

The 30A strip can look OK but have a hairline crack. Remove it for cleaning, you'll know right away if it's broken.

Just a thought, could a faulty ambient temperature sensor cause some of these issues?
The ambient temperature data is put on the engine and body CAN network to be distributed to the control units needing the information such as the A/C control unit, engine control unit, instrument cluster etc etc.

Nope. The ambient temperature sensor for the display in the cluster, located near the front license plate, only connects to that display. It's not used for engine management.

The engine management systems use the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor located at the driver headlight intake snorkel. AFAIK this information is only used by the EZL to pull timing in very high ambient temps.

I think there is a third intake air temp sensor that is only used for the HVAC system, located below the wiper mechanism... but I'd have to double check on that.

 

[TerryA]

@DJ RaMiN,

DJ, That 30 amp fuse can look OK but have corrosion at the connections. It happened on my 500E. Remove it and check the connections.

Good Luck

 

[DJ RaMiN]

The 30A strip can look OK but have a hairline crack. Remove it for cleaning, you'll know right away if it's broken.

I will double check the 30A fuse!

Nope. The ambient temperature sensor for the display in the cluster, located near the front license plate, only connects to that display. It's not used for engine management.

The engine management systems use the IAT (Intake Air Temp) sensor located at the driver headlight intake snorkel. AFAIK this information is only used by the EZL to pull timing in very high ambient temps.

I think there is a third intake air temp sensor that is only used for the HVAC system, located below the wiper mechanism... but I'd have to double check on that.

I see, I see. Somehow I thought they would report to the engine management.

@DJ RaMiN, DJ, That 30 amp fuse can look OK but have corrosion at the connections. It happened on my 500E. Remove it and check the connections.

Great, I will double check it!

 

[DJ RaMiN]

I was planning to do some tests today, but the weather got kinda funky here. I'm guessing we're getting Hilary's after party here in NorCal.

As you can see the cover was ripped!


Anyways, I started the car today and got the ABS light! The light came on after a few seconds of running and turned off by itself after a minute or so. I did check the codes again on the DM.

This time I got the same code (#6) along with code 15 (Wide open throttle information defective). And the document says "Test electronic accelerator, section 6.2."

Now I'm leaning towards Egas module...

 

[gsxr]

DM code 6 is indicating something up with the ISC (idle speed control), which is either ETA or the T/LLR control module. (Note... E-GAS module is only on cars with ASR, but both T/LLR and E-GAS performs similar functions and are connected to diagnostic socket #7.)

Have you pulled codes from pin #7 yet? That should give you more info.

DM code #15 is unusual, but is likely also related to either the ETA or T/LLR.

 

[DJ RaMiN]

DM code 6 is indicating something up with the ISC (idle speed control), which is either ETA or the T/LLR control module. (Note... E-GAS module is only on cars with ASR, but both T/LLR and E-GAS performs similar functions and are connected to diagnostic socket #7.)

Have you pulled codes from pin #7 yet? That should give you more info.

DM code #15 is unusual, but is likely also related to either the ETA or T/LLR.

Yes, you're right. My car is non ASR, so ETA or the T/LLR control module is right.

I gotta find my code reader to pull the codes from pin #7. It should be in a box with my multimeter. I haven't touched some of the boxes in the garage since the move. I got the code reader from eBay to check some codes on the 190E a few years back. I hope I can use the same one for the E420!

 

[gsxr]

The 190E code reader (blinker box) will work, but if it only has 4mm banana-plug connectors... you'll need a breakout box to plug into the 38-pin diagnostic port.

Something like this one, just ignore the "OBD2" label, these cars are OBD1.

For Mercedes MB Breakout Box OBD2 EOBD Tester 38 Pin Out Diagnostic Pinout Tools | eBay

Allows monitoring of any OBD2 diagnostic systems. 19 Diagnostic module (OBD II). Ideal for checking vehicle's diagnostic status. This tool is used to change the pin settings of other diagnostic tools/scanners without the needs to cut the connecting cable for re-wiring.

www.ebay.com

 

[DJ RaMiN]

The 190E code reader (blinker box) will work, but if it only has 4mm banana-plug connectors... you'll need a breakout box to plug into the 38-pin diagnostic port.

Something like this one, just ignore the "OBD2" label, these cars are OBD1.

For Mercedes MB Breakout Box OBD2 EOBD Tester 38 Pin Out Diagnostic Pinout Tools | eBay

Allows monitoring of any OBD2 diagnostic systems. 19 Diagnostic module (OBD II). Ideal for checking vehicle's diagnostic status. This tool is used to change the pin settings of other diagnostic tools/scanners without the needs to cut the connecting cable for re-wiring.

www.ebay.com

View attachment 172576

I believe mine has 4mm banana-plug connectors. I could also just use adapters for the pins, right? From 4mm banana plugs to whatever size the 38 pin one uses. I just gotta figure out the size of the pins.