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OWNER gatorblue92 (E420)

Gatorblue92

400E420 Guru
Member
Finally decided to make an owner thread as I think I have found a keeper.

Found my newly acquired 95 E420 over on Peach Parts a few weeks ago and spent a few days drooling over a completely rust free southern car before purchasing a one way flight to Atlanta to bring it home. It's a late production 95 Special Edition with about 197K miles. Unfortunately the cell phone is long gone as are the chrome door sills and it’s got a nicer aftermarket bluetooth stereo.

Picked the car up on Friday in Atlanta and drove it to my brother's house in Alabama which was a rather uneventful trip aside from one of the aftermarket smoked corner lights committing suicide on I-20. Set out for home in Delaware the following day and the car was behaving wonderfully but I did have to stop for an auto parts parking lot repair which involved a fraying serpentine belt. Managed to get about 27 MPG on the way home with the cruise set at 72.

This car came with extensive service records including new timing chains and guides about 3k miles ago along with what appears to be a sun valley transmission rebuild which was installed by Blue Ridge a few years ago. While the car is completely rust free it does have some faults including some cracking of the older repaint on the hood as well as a cooked mushroom interior. Currently on the lookout for new seat covers or possibly sport line seats.

First stop in Alabama

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This could have been really bad.

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Made it home and installed some correct corner lights.

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The interior definitely needs some work but the headliner is in pretty good shape.
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More to come...
 
You should make an appropriate sacrifice to the car gods, since clearly they have favoured you with this purchase! As I said in the sale thread, that's alotta car for $3k.

Seriously though. When I had to stop to replace the belt in Tennessee I happened to be in a town with a harbor freight and an advance auto parts with the belt in stock. Got very lucky with that and catching it before it snapped.
 
Getting better acquainted with the car this afternoon with a fresh oil change. The PO has been running Mobil 1 for the past 15 years and I’m not about to change it. I’ve also discovered a bit of wetness on the driver side of the engine way down low. I suspect some leaks in the power steering system since the fluid is a bit low. Going to clean it up and monitor it to see where it’s coming from.
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Very nice car Gator - love the colour and monos on it :wootrock: Looks like a very nice example for sure
 
It's your car and you're call, but I suspect if you were to have a poll asking which wheels? SE or monoblocks? You'd get 85%+ for monoblocks. If the PO of my car didn't source these BRABUS multipieces, I'd 110% be getting the W220 monoblocks. They are, imho, the wheel for the W124.
 
It's your car and you're call, but I suspect if you were to have a poll asking which wheels? SE or monoblocks? You'd get 85%+ for monoblocks. If the PO of my car didn't source these BRABUS multipieces, I'd 110% be getting the W220 monoblocks. They are, imho, the wheel for the W124.

Agreed. After having driven on both I prefer the wider stance on the Monoblocks over the stock wheels. The car seems more planted and it looks fantastic too.
 
Ignition lock cylinder that had to be wrestled with. Cylinder put up a hell of a fight. But after a long and hard conflict, it was on the losing end of the duel.

Nice BanzWorld avatar too @Gatorblue92 !! 100% Q*Baert, Shepster, leftCoastgeek and Jayare approved !
 
It's your car and you're call, but I suspect if you were to have a poll asking which wheels? SE or monoblocks? You'd get 85%+ for monoblocks. If the PO of my car didn't source these BRABUS multipieces, I'd 110% be getting the W220 monoblocks. They are, imho, the wheel for the W124.
what are the current sourcing options for monoblocks? are they available new from M-B or any decently priced aftermarket options? I need new wheels and tires and before I stockpiling 15" machine polished 8-holers, wanted to see monoblocks are a better option. Also, machine polished are harder to maintain versus the polished ones which are semi-DIY with tons and tons of elbow grease (versus no DIY option for machine polished).
 
After that happened to me on the C126 removal a decade ago, I vowed if I ever bought another, that was the first project. I ordered new for both W124 the day I bought them.
 
It's your car and you're call, but I suspect if you were to have a poll asking which wheels? SE or monoblocks? You'd get 85%+ for monoblocks. If the PO of my car didn't source these BRABUS multipieces, I'd 110% be getting the W220 monoblocks. They are, imho, the wheel for the W124.

Dunnik,

W220 Monblocks are the wrong size for a 124 especially an E500E. They are 19” and require large spacers. Also 19s have a very rough ride.

IMOP, 18” Monoblocks from a W210 E55 are the best fit and ride on an E500E. Use with a premium set of tires preferably Michelin or Continental’s latest offer sized with 275-35/18 on rears and 245-40/18 fronts.

Again this is just my opinion but if you care about ride or have rough potholed roads 19” would be very disappointing to most E500E Owners.

19s Would never fit on a 400E420 since they have the pedestrian 124 chassis w/o the widened fenders. IMOP, 17” from the C36 or C43 is Best Used on 400E420. Note 18” could possibly fit but would require fender well mods. Ask me how I know this? From a very costly experience of just fitting 17” Monoblocks on a 300E.

To each his/her own.

There, enough said by me.
 
Ignition lock cylinder that had to be wrestled with. Cylinder put up a hell of a fight. But after a long and hard conflict, it was on the losing end of the duel.

Nice BanzWorld avatar too @Gatorblue92 !! 100% Q*Baert, Shepster, leftCoastgeek and Jayare approved !

lol I guess it is the same avatar I use there.

The lock was still functioning but it had been sticking for the past few weeks. Finally got the time to change it since all of my kids activities are canceled for the foreseeable future. Took all of 5 minutes With the proper tool.
 
Aah, so it was just the typical front piece falling off of the main body, along with some stickiness? You certainly dodged a bullet with that one, congrats.

And a lesson to others to change their cylinders out! My former 1995 wagon's cylinder was working fine, but I ordered and changed it out and was surprised to find that mine looked exactly like @Gatorblue92's -- the front piece had broken off of the body. But I didn't have any stickness. If you have the tool, it's a 5-min job as said.

I bet more than quite a few of you E500E drivers out there have cylinders that are exactly like this one, and don't even know it !!
 
what are the current sourcing options for monoblocks? are they available new from M-B or any decently priced aftermarket options? I need new wheels and tires and before I stockpiling 15" machine polished 8-holers, wanted to see monoblocks are a better option. Also, machine polished are harder to maintain versus the polished ones which are semi-DIY with tons and tons of elbow grease (versus no DIY option for machine polished).

I bought these from another member about 3 years ago and had them on my 300TE wagon. They are the staggered 17’s from the W202. Great for the non 036 cars but not a good choice for the 036 due to their offset.
 
Don't want to hijack G-blue's thread.....but I'm guessing if I use the "SEARCH" function I will find out what the "right tool" is?
 
Don't want to hijack G-blue's thread.....but I'm guessing if I use the "SEARCH" function I will find out what the "right tool" is?
:searchdammit:

 
Don't want to hijack G-blue's thread.....but I'm guessing if I use the "SEARCH" function I will find out what the "right tool" is?

I highly recommend using the right tool for this job. It’s available on eBay for about $20. I used an old metal coat hanger on a prior car and it wasn't easy to get it lined up for installing the new one.
 
I highly recommend using the right tool for this job. It’s available on eBay for about $20. I used an old metal coat hanger on a prior car and it wasn't easy to get it lined up for installing the new one.
Totally second this. Its the same as using coat hanger pieces as a dash cluster puller. It works (I did it for years), but when you have the right tools for the job, it takes 90% of the angst and hassle out of the job.
 
Regarding the right tool for the job, couldn’t agree more...

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I do think these cluster and tumbler tools mentioned are amongst the easiest “special” 124 tools for a parsimonious DIYer to fabricate from stuff lying around other than coat hangers.
 

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Gator, awesome. Please post here how the suspension feels with shorter springs and HD Bilstein dampers

Will do. This is the 3rd W124 I’ll have on this setup but the first .034. Both my former 300E which I scrapped due to structural rust and 300TE had (still has with the new owner) the same setup and I loved how they looked and handed.

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Gator, could I please ask you to try to quantify how much more stiffer/jarring the ride with 17 inch wheels and 45 profile tires, shorter springs and stiffer struts/dampers vs stock 15 inch wheels and stock suspension feels to you? Is it 25, 50, a 100, or some other percentage? How much better the handling is? Thanks
 
Gator, could I please ask you to try to quantify how much more stiffer/jarring the ride with 17 inch wheels and 45 profile tires, shorter springs and stiffer struts/dampers vs stock 15 inch wheels and stock suspension feels to you? Is it 25, 50, a 100, or some other percentage? How much better the handling is? Thanks

It did feel a bit more planted and the steering was heavier with the Monoblocks over the stock wheels which is expected since they are quite a bit wider than the stock 15's. I'm expecting it will be a more "rough" and firm ride on the lowering springs with the B8's and the monoblocks but I'll update when I get it completed.
 
Is the car on jack stands? If yes, can you post a pic of where you placed them under the car? Thx!

Yes it was on jack stands. I put them under the rubber jack points on the rockers. I use a floor jack under the differential or the front crossmember when I lift and then leave it there as a backup in case a stand fails. Same with the wheels I removed under the car.
 
All done. The alignment is way off but I kinda expected that. Didn’t replace the tie rods since they all appear to be fairly recently done and look like genuine Mercedes parts too. Took it for a quick ride and aside from the alignment it rides like it’s on rails. I’m also thinking the front needs a day or two to settle since it seems a bit nose high.
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Just realized the stock front pads were #2 and I replaced them with #3 :doh:

I know that’s what I used on my wagon after I had some rubbing issues on #2 pads with the same wheels and also on H&R springs/ B8 struts. I don’t particularly like the idea of swapping in some #4 pads in the rear but that might be the most practical solution.
 
Gator,

It looks nice. I just hope that it rides better than my old long gone 86 300E. In my setup I had used Eibach springs and Koni Reds x4 and 17” Becker Monoblocks w/ 225/45-R17x4. I must say it really looked good rolling down the road. The handling was great BUT the ride IMOP was very harsh. I tried every possible setting on the adjustable Koni shocks. I couldn’t imagine if I had brought the Koni Yellow Sport shocks.

Anyway, at that time (mid 90s) the tire selection was limited and I went thru different sets of tires before settling on a different size tire. I went from a 225/45 to a 215/50-R17 Yokohama. I spent a lot of bucks and time fiddling with the setup.

Hopefully, with the great selection of good tires available today this will help your ride. If I ever did this again but I’m not, Michelin and Continental tires would be my choice today.

Good Luck
 
Just realized the stock front pads were #2 and I replaced them with #3 :doh:

I know that’s what I used on my wagon after I had some rubbing issues on #2 pads with the same wheels and also on H&R springs/ B8 struts. I don’t particularly like the idea of swapping in some #4 pads in the rear but that might be the most practical solution.
Thickest available rear pads are #3, after that, you're stuck... or you can try some sort of spring "booster" widgets. Keep in mind the wagons is *completely* different, due to the SLS.

Be careful if you drop the front much more, as you may end up with some rubbing issues. Did you add the fender spacers up front, both in front of and behind the wheel?

BTW, was your spring kit specifically designed for the E420, or is it a 6-cyl spring kit...?

:strawberry:
 
Thickest available rear pads are #3, after that, you're stuck... or you can try some sort of spring "booster" widgets. Keep in mind the wagons is *completely* different, due to the SLS.

Be careful if you drop the front much more, as you may end up with some rubbing issues. Did you add the fender spacers up front, both in front of and behind the wheel?

BTW, was your spring kit specifically designed for the E420, or is it a 6-cyl spring kit...?

:strawberry:
Its a specific 400E420 spring kit. I did use the 6 cylinder struts. Also no fender spacers. I drove the car a bit this morning and it seems to have settled out quite a bit. I’ll have it aligned and see how it looks at that point.
 
Cool - good to hear the spring kit is V8-specific. If you run into any rubbing up front, you can add the spacers (and/or roll fender lips) later on. Under normal street driving this may not be an issue, but if cornering hard, trail braking, or turning while hitting a bump... you might get some rubbing.

Remember that any changes in ride height will tweak the alignment slightly. If possible get the ride height sorted out first, THEN get the alignment.

Can you measure all four from wheel center to fender lip, on a level surface, and note the fuel tank level? Full vs empty tank can change the rear height by 1/4-1/2". The front is not affected by fuel level though.

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All four corners are within 1/8 of 25” from the ground to the bottom of the fender opening. I did have the car aligned this afternoon and it looks nearly level now and rides so nicely. I understand the firmer ride isn’t everyone’s preference but I’m very happy with how it turned out. Too bad I’ve got nowhere to go at the moment 😭

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Gator, so how much firmer is your current set up vs stock? If you'd try to quantify, what would the percentage be? Thanks
 
Gator, so how much firmer is your current set up vs stock? If you'd try to quantify, what would the percentage be? Thanks

I would say maybe 15-25% firmer than before lowering. It's also a bit hard to quantify since I was running on badly worn ball joints and LCA bushings but decent Sachs struts prior to the new parts.
 
OK, but can you measure to wheel center, as shown in my photo? I don't have any reference data measured to the ground.

Sorry for the delay. It’s been a crazy week at work.
I’m at just over 13” on the rear with a full tank of fuel. The driver front is 13 1/2” and the passenger front is 13 1/4”

Not sure why there is such a difference between the front wheels. The car looks pretty level now and is driving perfectly straight after an alignment.

I just went for a 20 mile drive (to my office oddly enough) and I’ve put about 75 miles on the car since lowering and I’m still very pleased with how it turned out even if the front is still a tad high.
 

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