OWNER doolar

[doolar]

You were right Roger. It was the old injectors. I put in the other set I have, and the car started immediately. It still won't run on all cylinders though, backfires sometimes and is really weak, so I'll check fuel pressure first, then I'll pull each plug to see if I can find out which one(s) are not firing. I guess I'm looking at either low fuel pressure (FPR and/or fuel pumps) or injectors. This is what I'm going to try to pinpoint now, I've swapped out most (all?) other possible things that can make this issue.

I'll pull codes again too, I actually drove the car a few hundred meters outside today, just to give it the chance to spew some new codes, and that it might cough to life of course.

 

[gsxr]

Thomas, how long were the old injectors in storage? Glad you got it running!

 

[doolar]

Thomas, how long were the old injectors in storage? Glad you got it running!

Since November 2013, so five years. They didn’t like that apparently. I’m quite suspicious about the other set too, many of my problems started after that completely unnecessary swap of injectors, I just didn’t make the connection at the time. Those were the ones I got refurbished as I’ve reported before. I might just get new ones regardless, I can r&r injectors in 15 minutes nowadays.

I just placed an order for a new Bosch FPR. Hopefully I can troubleshoot the rest tomorrow!

 

[gsxr]

Since November 2013, so five years. They didn’t like that apparently.

D'oh! I was afraid of that. Makes me wonder how the couple sets of spares I have on the shelf are doing...

 

[Taxi Driver]

You were right Roger. It was the old injectors. I put in the other set I have, and the car started immediately. It still won't run on all cylinders though, backfires sometimes and is really weak, so I'll check fuel pressure first, then I'll pull each plug to see if I can find out which one(s) are not firing. I guess I'm looking at either low fuel pressure (FPR and/or fuel pumps) or injectors. This is what I'm going to try to pinpoint now, I've swapped out most (all?) other possible things that can make this issue.

I'll pull codes again too, I actually drove the car a few hundred meters outside today, just to give it the chance to spew some new codes,
and that it might cough to life of course.

GOOD NEWS, should I say, I told you so? I know, however your feelings now. Times when I have had issues, bad uneven running
low on Power in gear, 3-4000rpm, ALWAYS has been related to the ignition, caps rotors, plugs,cables, not so much.

Fuel supply, i.e. injector condition, after fuel filter change, a good part of injector Clean, of a good quality, that I recommend.

 

[doolar]

GOOD NEWS, should I say, I told you so? I know, however your feelings now. Times when I have had issues, bad uneven running
low on Power in gear, 3-4000rpm, ALWAYS has been related to the ignition, caps rotors, plugs,cables, not so much.

Fuel supply, i.e. injector condition, after fuel filter change, a good part of injector Clean, of a good quality, that I recommend.

My feelings are great thank you very much I don’t get irritated over these things easily. I made something stupid and learned from it. Move on, next!

I’ll start with codes and fuel supply tomorrow. I’ll get there in the end.

 

[doolar]

I fixed another thing today I remembered now. My trunk lock has been acting up lately, I guess the car's been sitting for too long. The lock mechanism wouldn't engage always when closing the trunk lid. Sometimes I had to try several times for it to grip. Thought I had to lubricate it, so I started with the three adjusting screws on the inside of the trunk liner. But presto, there was a popping sound, and something back there unhinged itself. I carefully tried the lock mechanism, and it works again. Fastened the three bolts, tested and yey my trunk is now acting normal again. Hopefully this was just a "I'm your car and you drive me to rarely, so I'm gonna go gremlin on you" moment. Time will tell.

I usually try to use the two door locks and the trunk lock so they will get some exercise, avoiding just using the driver door lock. Usually I unlock the car at the driver door every time, and alter between locking from the trunk or the passenger side. If I'm in a hurry, I can always make up for it on the road later.

 

[doolar]

She is running, good!!! And it was all my mistake. Please indulge yourself.

Started today with reading codes again, none had come back. That felt good!
Tested with MAF disconnected, still ran like crap. Tested with my other EZL, no difference.

With those three things crossed off, I moved on to the injectors. Placed a screwdriver on each injector and listened for the clicking sounds, they were there on all of them, so my injectors are working.

On to sparks. I disconnected the plug cables from the spark plugs and put in a spark plug in the cable, just to observe the spark. I did this on each of the plugs, and quickly noticed an either weak or none existing spark on several of them, in the end four, all belonging to the right distributor. Now I'm onto something!

Here comes the funny part. I disconnected the coil wire from coil and distributor, and replaced it with another coil cable from my dads 500E. Started the car, and it still ran poorly, but I could hear a strong spark sound from the engine bay. So went to have a look, and lo and behold, my "disconnected" cable was producing a big long spark. There's only one conclusion I could draw from this, and that is that it's still connected to the coil of course, meaning that I have indeed connected the cables wrong when I reassembled after the intake manifold job.
Turns out that I had connected the coil cable to the nr 1 cylinder at the distributor, and the nr 1 cylinder to the coil at the distributor...

When I reassembled the cables upon completing the intake manifold job, I had them all marked, I had a schematic, I laid them all out on the engine before tucking them in, double and even triple-checking that I had it right, which I obviously didn't have. I ended up mixing two plugs at the distributor after all precautions taken.

Connected them correct, and vroooooom she started and idled immaculate.

One silly mistake made all this trouble.

But today I finally got to drive the car on the road, took a short trip of around 15 kilometers, even made it out on the highway. The car runs really strong!

So now, all I have to do is change the engine oil, filter, attach the skid plate under the engine, and then see what happens at the MOT/emissions test. I'll get that done Monday!

I'm really happy that it was just a simple mistake on my end, it didn't cost any money.

I have to say thank you to all of you guys contributing to finding the fault. Sorry that it was a major cock up on my part...

 

[Trae]

As Jono would say, "Been there, done that.".

 

[doolar]

I made a little video, not that used to Imovie and Youtube at all, but it's ok I guess. I'll do better next time!

Enjoy my ramblings!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/YAYxXzOsIZo?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

 

[JC220]

Nice video!

Its interesting that the same covering on your LHD drive car has yellowed exactly like the same part in my RHD C124 Coupe. There must be some production issue with that particular piece that causes the discolouring. I have located a car with the correct panel as my CE so I’m going to go get that and swap it out. It does not have the yellowing so could have been replaced at some point

 

[doolar]

My theory is that it's the glue/foam on the backside, since that's the same color. I have some discoloration on the drivers side panel too, but not as bad as this. I'll try to locate a used piece in better condition, and also try to restore the color of the one I have. Don't think it'll work though.

 

[sheward]

Congratulations on getting the problem sorted. Your car looks great. I like the re upholstery work. Looks a bit like the w210 interior and matches well.

Drew

 

[doolar]

The uphostery are made to look like the W210 interior. It was done in the late 90’s when the 210 was the new modern car, and the PO wanted that fresh look. The color goes great with the light blue exterior.

 

[doolar]

Progress, but not quite there yet with the emissions. They’re better now, but I forgot to put in the stock LH, (the WOT one seems to make the emissions worse).

I’ll measure the ECT sensor values and try with a new 02 sensor, check/reset codes and adaptation again, and drive around for a day or two. Then new emissions test.

I had a blast today driving though in the nice autumn rain. It’s such a blast with the FGS switch! I’ve never had the chance to use the FGS fully, just around the block. I was suspicious of it before, because it wouldn’t change to fourth gear, but it does, only later than normal. So I really like this setup, ”S” on the transmission selector is really ”sport” not ”standard” now, with starts in 1st and later upshifts. ”E” is starts in 2nd with earlier upshifts (I redubbed it ”easy” instead of ”economy”). Feels like I really have two different settings now on my gearbox. Can’t wait to get that Wavetrac installed...

 

[doolar]

Never a dull moment with this car! Read the codes today from yesterdays driving, some new, some came back:

Pin 4
DTC 4 Voltage at hot wire MAF sensor (B2/2) insufficient or too high, or open circuit in ground wire at hot wire MAF sensor
DTC 13 IAT sensor (B17/7), open/short circuit

Pin 7
DTC 6 Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch
DTC 7 Message from CC/ISC control module (N4/3) faulty Reception from LH-SFI control module (N3/1) faulty

The MAF DTC on pin 4 came back, any ideas? Bad MAF?
DTC 13 on pin 4, I ordered a new IAT sensor, the one on the car looks like crap anyway, and it only costs $12.

On pin 7, I had both these codes before, so they've been erased just to come back. Any ideas there?

An finally, todays outro, I had a ton of fun driving the car quite inspired. Got on the throttle reasonably quick from a standstill, and broke my left drive axle.

So now I have to r&r that, not difficult at all, and it's not the first time I break one in a 124-car (though never in my 034 up until now). Do any of you guys know if they're the same as for the six cylinder cars? IIRC they differ in length depending on ASD, am I correct? If they fit from a six cylinder car I have a few dismounted ones in the garage.

 

[gsxr]

Never a dull moment with this car! Read the codes today from yesterdays driving, some new, some came back:

The MAF DTC on pin 4 came back, any ideas? Bad MAF?
DTC 13 on pin 4, I ordered a new IAT sensor, the one on the car looks like crap anyway, and it only costs $12.
On pin 7, I had both these codes before, so they've been erased just to come back. Any ideas there?

Pin 4
DTC 4 - Sounds like a bad MAF or wiring issue, if this keeps coming back. Do you have a digital scanner to view live data?
DTC 13 - If the new sensor doesn't fix it, check the wiring and connector.
Pin 7
DTC 6 - If the NSS is not new, I'd replace it. Also make sure it's adjusted properly.
DTC 7 - That is weird. I'd re-seat all the modules and clean the contacts.

An finally, todays outro, I had a ton of fun driving the car quite inspired. Got on the throttle reasonably quick from a standstill, and broke my left drive axle. ... Do any of you guys know if they're the same as for the six cylinder cars? IIRC they differ in length depending on ASD, am I correct? If they fit from a six cylinder car I have a few dismounted ones in the garage.

The axles are not the same as 6-cyl. Also, the .034/.036 ASR axles are thicker (32mm) than non-ASR (25mm). Axle breakage is extremely rare in USA, were yours rusted?

 

[doolar]

Pin 4
DTC 4 - Sounds like a bad MAF or wiring issue, if this keeps coming back. Do you have a digital scanner to view live data?
DTC 13 - If the new sensor doesn't fix it, check the wiring and connector.
Pin 7
DTC 6 - If the NSS is not new, I'd replace it. Also make sure it's adjusted properly.
DTC 7 - That is weird. I'd re-seat all the modules and clean the contacts.

I don't have a digital scanner I'm afraid. I'll see if I can borrow one, or maybe it's time to take the plunge and get one. I have a Dell laptop prepared for one of those China C3 ones. My other option is to use another MAF and see if it throws code again. I have a used one in the garage, that worked fine the last time it was on a car.

The sensor is on it's way home, I'll check the wiring and connector too.

I'll replace the NSS, I've never replaced it, and I have not found it on any of the invoices from the PO.
Thanks for the tip on the modules, it's on my todo list now for tomorrow.

The axles are not the same as 6-cyl. Also, the .034/.036 ASR axles are thicker (32mm) than non-ASR (25mm). Axle breakage is extremely rare in USA, were yours rusted?

I'll remove the axle tomorrow to inspect it, I'll report back what I find. It's likely that it's rusted, the car's been going all year around in Sweden and Germany until I bought it, so rust is inevitable.

 

[doolar]

Some research and it seems like the axles on my car is A1293502710, it's the same axle as for the SL500 (without ASR?). I'll check my broken one for p/n to verify it of course.
If so then I won't have too much of a trouble sourcing a used one. It's a cool €1000 new, so that won't happen.

 

[doolar]

Forgot to report on the ECT measurement results. Now I didn’t remove it to measure it, I just wanted to ballpark it, and see that it reacted to different temperatures. Started with a measurement with a cold engine in the garage, where it was 15 degrees C today. The Ohm was between the values for 10 and 20 degrees. Next measurement was with a warm engine, 80 degrees on the cluster gauge. The value corresponded with the Ohm for that range. So I conclude that the sensor is doing its job.

I also removed the O2 sensor to inspect it. Looks good, and I replaced it not so long ago. Tightened it down again, and struggled back the connector. This was of course no guarantee of anything, but atleast I know it’s not visibly broken, and that it’s seated correctly both in the exhaust and at the connector.

 

[gsxr]

Did you measure the 2-pin ECT (for the HVAC system), or the 4-pin ECT (for the engine management)?

 

[doolar]

Did you measure the 2-pin ECT (for the HVAC system), or the 4-pin ECT (for the engine management)?

The 4-pin, used the table for the ECT’s from your webpage.

 

[doolar]

Checked codes again, since I swapped in the original LH instead of the WOT one. No codes, none of the codes that kept recurring on the WOT LH came back. I didn't drive that long before the axle broke, so I'll drive some more to see if there's any new or recurring ones, otherwise I may deem the WOT LH not functional (for my car).

Then it was time to start looking at the drive axle. Got the car up on jacks, removed the wheels (I'm gonna take the opportunity to clean wheels, brakes and wheel arches, and maybe fit my braided brake hoses, if I can find them) and had a look. Yes, the axle is very split in two, on the wheel side. Fortunately it didn't break anything while spinning around in there.

Then on to gathering the tools, and cleaning out the hex screw heads from 23 years of dust and grime. Then I had to stop for the day, so I'll remove the axle tomorrow. I'll post proper pictures of the axle then.

Found an axle from a non-ASR -92 SL500 with only about 70k miles on the clock for €100 including shipping from a breaker here in Sweden. So that's on its way home, and will probably arrive Friday or Monday.

 

[Taxi Driver]

Checked codes again, since I swapped in the original LH instead of the WOT one. No codes, none of the codes that kept recurring on the WOT LH came back. I didn't drive that long before the axle broke, so I'll drive some more to see if there's any new or recurring ones, otherwise I may deem the WOT LH not functional (for my car).

Then it was time to start looking at the drive axle. Got the car up on jacks, removed the wheels (I'm gonna take the opportunity to clean wheels, brakes and wheel arches, and maybe fit my braided brake hoses, if I can find them) and had a look. Yes, the axle is very split in two, on the wheel side. Fortunately it didn't break anything while spinning around in there.

Then on to gathering the tools, and cleaning out the hex screw heads from 23 years of dust and grime. Then I had to stop for the day, so I'll remove the axle tomorrow. I'll post proper pictures of the axle then.

Found an axle from a non-ASR -92 SL500 with only about 70k miles on the clock for €100 including shipping from a breaker here in Sweden. So that's on its way home, and will probably arrive Friday or Monday.

Well, that drive shaft is the 2:nd one I have seen broken Clean off, on a W124 i.e. the first one, on a 300TE a friend had,
his Young boys at that time were out testing their new drivers licens....it was a 5speed manual btw, I guess that Wheel suddenly
gained a lot of grip, alas it broke. Also, the ASR wich sometimes is not that funny to have, has saved many 500E etc drive shafts.

It takes a good deal of Power to keep the Wheels spinning and harm the rubber, not the shafts. I guess You did not play around?

 

[a777fan]

Then it was time to start looking at the drive axle. Got the car up on jacks, removed the wheels (I'm gonna take the opportunity to clean wheels, brakes and wheel arches, and maybe fit my braided brake hoses, if I can find them) and had a look. Yes, the axle is very split in two, on the wheel side. Fortunately it didn't break anything while spinning around in there.

Then on to gathering the tools, and cleaning out the hex screw heads from 23 years of dust and grime. Then I had to stop for the day, so I'll remove the axle tomorrow. I'll post proper pictures of the axle then.

Found an axle from a non-ASR -92 SL500 with only about 70k miles on the clock for €100 including shipping from a breaker here in Sweden. So that's on its way home, and will probably arrive Friday or Monday.

nuts! You should send it out to your local transportation safety board for a full on metallurgical analysis!

seriously though, i'll be curious to see the fracture surfaces once you have it out of the car...

 

[doolar]

Well, that drive shaft is the 2:nd one I have seen broken Clean off, on a W124 i.e. the first one, on a 300TE a friend had,
his Young boys at that time were out testing their new drivers licens....it was a 5speed manual btw, I guess that Wheel suddenly
gained a lot of grip, alas it broke. Also, the ASR wich sometimes is not that funny to have, has saved many 500E etc drive shafts.

It takes a good deal of Power to keep the Wheels spinning and harm the rubber, not the shafts. I guess You did not play around?

Funny, I broke an axle on our 300TE many moons ago. That time, I only drove gently off from a red light in town, you know normal city driving. *SNAP* and off it went. The axle was rust bitten.

This time around, I was enjoying myself with some inspirational driving, but in a sensible "42-year old with family" kinda way. Just wanted to get a quick start, so I maybe gave 3/4 throttle, not stomping it but a fast depressing of the pedal. *SNAP* and that was it. It'll be interesting to inspect the shaft tomorrow, to see if there's any visible damage.

Agree with you on the ASR thing. My car must release the energy through the wheels, or something must give.

 

[gsxr]

For people with non-ASR 400E420's, you could upgrade to the ASR axles, which are substantially thicker. Probably not worth the hassle unless you have easy/cheap access to a pair of the correct axles.

Although I've never snapped an axle shaft on any car, I did blow up an inner CV joint. This was on a RENNtech W210 E60 with Hoosier drag radials at the track. As it was coming out of the waterbox, one of the tires gripped before the other and *boom*. I have photos but need to upload them to my website. This was painful as I was in competition and the breakage meant I couldn't make it to the final round of the race. On the bright side I was able to pick up a replacement axle from a local salvage yard for <$50 or so.

Interestingly, most of the W210's have the smaller 25mm axle shafts, like the non-ASR 124.034. I forget if MB upgrade the axles for the W210 E50/E55/E60 AMG or not. From memory I think they all use the same axle shafts, with slightly smaller CV joints than the W124+M119.

 

[doolar]

For people with non-ASR 400E420's, you could upgrade to the ASR axles, which are substantially thicker. Probably not worth the hassle unless you have easy/cheap access to a pair of the correct axles.

Are they a fit length wise and so on? The thought struck me, since I know the ASR ones are thicker (but why, shouldn't it be the other way around?). If they are a match size wise, I'll just get a pair from the breakers until next time , and swap out both of them. The ASR ones are even easier to find, since ASR became standard in 93 I think on the R129. Maybe this is a good thing to do when I drop the Wavetrac in. I'll not be gentler on the throttle then for sure.


Edit: Found a SL60 AMG at a breaker in Sweden, maybe those shafts are beefier? Only about $150 a piece...

 

[Taxi Driver]

For people with non-ASR 400E420's, you could upgrade to the ASR axles, which are substantially thicker. Probably not worth the hassle unless you have easy/cheap access to a pair of the correct axles.

Although I've never snapped an axle shaft on any car, I did blow up an inner CV joint. This was on a RENNtech W210 E60 with Hoosier drag radials at the track. As it was coming out of the waterbox, one of the tires gripped before the other and *boom*. I have photos but need to upload them to my website. This was painful as I was in competition and the breakage meant I couldn't make it to the final round of the race. On the bright side I was able to pick up a replacement axle from a local salvage yard for <$50 or so.

Interestingly, most of the W210's have the smaller 25mm axle shafts, like the non-ASR 124.034. I forget if MB upgrade the axles for the W210 E50/E55/E60 AMG or not. From memory I think they all use the same axle shafts, with slightly smaller CV joints than the W124+M119.

Thanks, I have to take a couple of meassures and compare, E50, 400E non ASR, the 500E and also the C43.
I wonder about the length ASR vs non ASR the plan I have is to use an ASD diff on one of the cars?...

My 400E when I bought it, had a left rear without any thread! (no ASR) so...

 

[TerryA]

Forget the axel shafts. Go for the engine!!!!

 

[doolar]

Forget the axel shafts. Go for the engine!!!!

It seems to be gone (the yard is not close to me, but they've got all parts from the car listed.) I also checked for the LH but it's all gone.



Started today with the easy jobs, namely replacing the FPR with the new one, and the IAT (intake air temperature) sensor with a new one. The IAT came with housing and all for a measly 128 Swedish Kronor ($15.61) without any discounts at the Mercedes-Benz dealership. Reasonable.

Well then I advanced to removing the axle debacle. Surprisingly the big 30 mm wheel nut came off reasonably easy, I was counting on some real struggle. Then I just had to tap the axle a little and out she came.

Next up was removing the six screws at the diff. They were trickier, but again, I had expected more of a challenge than I was given. If you do this, please make sure to clean out the bolt heads properly. I know most of you guys here know this well enough, but I just felt to remind anyone who reads this. The heads are not deep, and it takes some proper force to release them, so naturally if the tool is not properly in it may end in a disaster fast. (That's what she said )

Anyway, after that I just had to wiggle the axle a bit for it to come loose from its seat. On the bench I could quickly see that the axle was not in a very good shape at all. Removed the boot, and while there are plenty of grease left on both sides, it smells really rancid, and the color is shifting from black to gray. The boots themselves are in good shape, not even surface cracks. Also I could determine that water had with the help of surface rust penetrated the boot, on both sides.

The break area; well it is most probably a rust issue. Moisture and salt probably got in between the rubber boot and the shaft, eating away at the metal over the years.

I'll need to replace my axle on the right side too, there's no way that it is in any better condition than the left one that broke.

I'm enclosing 8 pictures, 4 from each of the two halves, of the break surface. Unfortunately I forgot to take pictures of the goo inside the boot, but I'll do that tomorrow.

So, if you have a car that's been driven in salty/winter conditions, you really need to inspect your shafts. Also, if the CV joints has not been re-greased, I'd look into that too.

I took delivery of the axle from the breakers today, haven't unwrapped it yet, it's tomorrows job, along with fitting it. I'm not going to re-grease it now. I'm gonna look for a good set of two axles, if possible some beefier ones, and do them over by the book. Then I'm going to use the one I got now as my spare, so when I remove it, I'll overhaul that too and put it on my parts shelf.

 

[doolar]

Fitted the axle today. When I unpacked it I immediately saw that it was indeed a thicker axle, even though it's not for an ASR car. But the measurements added up otherwise, so I decided to try it. The condition of the shaft, boots and the general state of it is very good. No rust, no leaky boots. This axle has not done too many (if any) winters, and less than half of the milage I have on my car.

Fitting was straightforward, I had to release the exhaust a bit to be able to get it in place. Then I loosely fitted the nut on the wheel side, and then the six bolts at the diff side. After that I removed the bolts one by one, Loctited and torqued them down to 70 Nm. Then I torqued down the nut to 240 Nm. Refitted exhaust, on with the wheels that I washed yesterday.

Drove for about an hour, I filmed it all with my action cam, I'm posting a link to 40 minutes of driving and talking, for anyone who's lonely. The drive went very well indeed, no strange vibrations from having two different axle diameters. I will as I said yesterday get two good used ones that I'll rebuild with new boots etc, and keep the shaft I fitted today as a spare on my parts shelf.

Checked the ATF level when I came back, it was perfect, and smell and color looks like I did a oil change yesterday (it was 5-6 years ago). I'll probably do an ATF plus filter change this winter, I'm far from the milage interval, but time is alway a factor too.

Pulled codes, one came back, and that's DTC 6 "Starter lock-out/backup lamp switch" on pin 7. That's the only one that I had after an hour's driving. So then it is a new NSS I need. I also noticed that the car idles a bit faster in P, around 11-1200 rpm. Also I had a missed upshift from 1-2 on the day that the axle failed. So it's really not impossible that the DTC is true. I'll order the NSS on Monday.

I promised a picture of the goo in the CV boot, so it's added below.

 

[Taxi Driver]

Hi, Thomas did I miss from what MB your new drive shaft originated? Nice to hear/see owner video clips, when I am finished
after the Winter I hope to make a clip or two, hopefully on both the 6liter AND finally, the 400E with the E50 AMG
motor, up and running. Let's see when I brake my first shaft....maybe need a diff lock of some kind?

Safe thing to do, is fitting the most hefty shaft available, now when the going gets tough or even tougher.

 

[gsxr]

Screenshot attached from 400E/500E Introduction manual on the rear axle shaft specs.

 

[doolar]

Hi, Thomas did I miss from what MB your new drive shaft originated? Nice to hear/see owner video clips, when I am finished
after the Winter I hope to make a clip or two, hopefully on both the 6liter AND finally, the 400E with the E50 AMG
motor, up and running. Let's see when I brake my first shaft....maybe need a diff lock of some kind?

Safe thing to do, is fitting the most hefty shaft available, now when the going gets tough or even tougher.

From a 1992 SL500, without ASR according to both the breaker and the VIN/datacard.

 

[Taxi Driver]

Most helpful, Thomas & Dave BUT when looking for how long the different shafts are, I have seen, 66cm 64cm 61...
pressed in cm? The width of the diff, ASR to non ASR doesn't the shaft length differ the two apart?

Another thing I am going to use the newer uprights w the ABS sensors at the bearing/outer joint and I guess the
ABS ring will fit the older joint?

 

[doolar]

27 minutes of easy driving and talking. The sound is not good at all, I'll use my Zoom H1 (sound recorder) the next time, it way out of battery. I really don't like editing video, so this one is just a long shot of film. I'll better myself (maybe) next time.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/SUJ09CD9ni4" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

 

[Taxi Driver]

I know, I know, did check right now, first BAAAD the shafts were 25mm, offcourse..... The question about the Diff width
there were a distance collar between drive flange and the inner shaft joint, to compensate for the ASR, my guess
the ASD is the same width as the ASR diff.

 

[Taxi Driver]

Thank you thank you ever so much Thomas.... I really hope this does inspire more people here to make a
Road Movie of their 034/036es. What camera did you use? Very nice.

 

[gsxr]

Most helpful, Thomas & Dave BUT when looking for how long the different shafts are, I have seen, 66cm 64cm 61... pressed in cm? The width of the diff, ASR to non ASR doesn't the shaft length differ the two apart?

I believe the ASR and non-ASR diffs for .034 are the same width, which means the shafts would be interchangeable. However, I have not yet confirmed this 100%.

Another thing I am going to use the newer uprights w the ABS sensors at the bearing/outer joint and I guess the ABS ring will fit the older joint?

Good question - I don't know. I too was interested in converting an ASR W124/M119 to use the outboard sensors at the wheel carrier, but I don't know if the number of teeth are the same on the CV joint ring, compared to the number of teeth on the flange inside the differential. And, some wire splicing would be needed as well. If it works, this would open up differential gear ratio selection for the W124 with ASR.

 

[doolar]

Thank you thank you ever so much Thomas.... I really hope this does inspire more people here to make a
Road Movie of their 034/036es. What camera did you use? Very nice.

Thanks for the kind words Roger! I use a Sony HDR-AS30V action cam, I bought it in 2014 IIRC. I like the Sonys because its slimmer than the Gopros, and the Sonys are usually a lot cheaper with about the same video quality. There's not as many accessories for the Sonys though. But for car shooting you only need a suction cup really. This Sony have a 170 degree angle which I used in this video, it distorts the image a lot of course, but it is nice for filming in a crammed area such as in a car.

 

[Taxi Driver]

The width between the inner cvj will be the same due to that distance piece, typically MB to use the
same length shafts but why the 25 vs 32mm thickness? I will test the outer ABS ring and sensor
if it does not compare I Think you can, maybe? use the front hubs a la w210???

Open up...the possibility to play with different rear axles/diffs, not to be bound to the ASR only diffs, yes.

 

[doolar]

Replaced the NSS with a new one today. Checked codes, reset adaptation, started the car. Still high idle in P and N, stable at 1100 rpm, but high. Maybe it’s because I reset adaptation again? Or cold engine, I let the coolant temps go up to 80 degrees, same idle.

Well, I’ll try with another MAF, recheck the throttle linkage and a good drive, to see what happens with idle and to see if I get any new or recurring codes.

 

[doolar]

Found the high idle reason. When I assembled the plenum etc I adjusted the rods for the throttle linkage, since I had the ball joints removed from the rods. Turns out that I adjusted the ball joint on the rod two rotations too tight, which resulted in that the arm on the ETA wouldn’t engage the idle switch.

This was quite easy to troubleshoot, I just removed the air filter box, and looked down on the rod and arm. I could see that the arm didn’t rest on the stop, it was perhaps 3 mm from the stop. Started the engine and poked it with my screwdriver, and immediately the idle sank. So I adjusted the ball joint two rotations, and that was it.

Now the car idles at aroud 650 in N and P, compared to the 1100 I had before. All rpm’s are read from the cluster, so it’s not exact, but it seems good now. In D or R the rpm drops to 500.

So took a short drive, about 50 km’s, when I came back, I read codes. None! So it seems I’m getting there. I’ll still need some more driving, and I’m going to replace the MAF, but it’s definately closer now!

One more thing, when I engaged the FGS module before I replaced the NSS I thought the car shifted to 4th gear very late. That should not be affected by the FGS at all, all that module does is engage first gear, so I couldn’t really understand what was wrong. So I thought I’ll just deal with it later, I have bigger issues now.

But after I replaced the NSS it’s working 100%! Now the car shifts to 4th at a normal rpm, throttle and speed even with the FGS engaged.

All in all, a few good hours with the car!

 

[nocfn]

Sorry I didn't suggest that. The M117 is completely linkage throttle, with 4 of those buggers and one has a spring action barrel that stretches out even if the length is proper. Good catch!

 

[Taxi Driver]

.. All in all, a few good hours with the car!

So Thomas, when your done with the "Little brother" isn't it TIME to get your grips on the real Thing, the 500E????

 

[doolar]

So Thomas, when your done with the "Little brother" isn't it TIME to get ypur grips on the real Thing, the 500E????

Thing is, it’s not my car, it’s my dads. He’s closing on to 70 years, and have his very own ideas on what he needs to do with the 500. I honestly just want it driving, since I know he maybe have 10 more good years left. But he won’t acknowledge that, and it would probably just make him furious if I intervened with his grand plans. And I always offer him my assistance whenever needed and possible. I’ve had several talks with him to try to get him to just finish up and make it a driver, and he usually agrees with me. But then he thinks of a new improvement, and starts taking stuff apart. He is talking about how he can improve the heads now, so I’m expecting them to be off the car soon.

But I don’t think his 500E will see the road until it’s too late. Sadly, because I know how much he loves to drive that thing, and I think he should enjoy it while he still can, instead of trying to improve it for years.

(Sorry dad if you read this, but we’ve talked about it.)

 

[Taxi Driver]

Yes I Think I know, the thing seems to be, just to posess and own a car, cars of your Dreams, I myself have been
sitting on two Jaguar MK2's 3.8 since nineteeneighty, yes 1980 had one running just Before there were Wife and kids.

Some day soon.... maybe I will, just got my retirement this year, still working half time, perhaps I will take up
this and some other "cans I have been kicking down the road" for some decades now?

Many Projects but I Think they help to keep you alive, sort of up and running, I can tell you this and the 500 Extasy
forum/Community, has been a help since my wife passed away some years ago, to say the passion for MB 500E
and the fixing of,,,

Let the "old one" drive around in the 420 and enjoy driving, take over the joy fixing the 500E your self.

Anyhow, glad to hear the running of the M119 looks good, congrats.

 

[doolar]

Kind and thoughtful words Roger! Get those Jags on the road, I grew up in a MK2, which my dad fully restored in the mid-70’s. Went to Italy in that MK2 when I was three years old. My very earliest memories!

Agree with the part about that it keeps you alive and going too. My dad’s really enjoying himself, and it keeps his brain busy, so why spoil it?

 

[Taxi Driver]

Kind and thoughtful words Roger! Get those Jags on the road, I grew up in a MK2, which my dad fully restored in the mid-70’s. Went to Italy in that MK2 when I was three years old. My very earliest memories!

Agree with the part about that it keeps you alive and going too. My dad’s really enjoying himself, and it keeps his brain busy, so why spoil it?

Thomas, I Believe you can recall that Connoly hide air and scent, no? My first Jag, 1974 a MK2 3.4 and a 420, the TOP
saloons by then, as the 500E came to be, the "red line" is obvious aint it?

Funny there we have some common issues/things, see....