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OWNER smoker (1995 E420)

All 1995 USA models of the 124 had the machine-finished wheels with clearcoat (aka 'High Sheen'), but only in 15".

A good wheel shop can machine the face and replicate the look on a set of painted wheels, but it ain't cheap if you have to ship the wheels both ways.

:spend:
 
@smoker,
Wow! That’s $14,300 bucks for what sounds like a real case of fraud.:mad: Have you gotten any kind of a refund or satisfaction for the lousy work done by Westside Tire. Based on your version of what happened, to me it looks like a small claims suite at a bare minimum.

At a minimum, how about the $1,300 for the ceramic coating they didn’t apply?

BTW, Your car looks real nice.

lol
 
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@smoker,
Wow! That’s $14,300 bucks for what sounds like a real case of fraud.:mad: Have you gotten any kind of a refund or satisfaction for the lousy work done by Westside Tire. Based on your version of what happened, to me it looks like a small claims suite at a bare minimum.

At a minimum, how about the $1,300 for the ceramic coating they didn’t apply?

BTW, Your car looks real nice.

lol
@TerryA Thanks :)

I wanted to close the chapter with them and don't feel like dealing with them anymore. @gsxr suggested the same. I just took the hit and moved on.
 
All 1995 USA models of the 124 had the machine-finished wheels with clearcoat (aka High Sheen), but only in 15.

A good wheel shop can machine the face and replicate the look on a set of painted wheels, but it aint cheap if you have to ship the wheels both ways.

:spend:
Dunno if these wheels have clearcoat, but I'll keep that in mind when I have the car repainted, a few years from today :)
 
Hello folks

Good Afternoon!

I've a few problems and researched the hell out of it, but couldn't find a clear answer. Hoping that someone can pinpoint and help me -

1. A/C center vent - Using the highlighted up arrow. I normally run on Low fan and not on Auto or High. Air comes from the side vents and not the center vents. But, the center vents feel cool and maybe, there's a slight, indiscernible flow. The vents open. I checked. I also replaced the climate control unit, but no difference.

2. Rear Headrests - They used to work. But, now suddenly don't. I can't lower the headrests. I have had the position of the button changed on the center console. Also, while installing the reverse camera, the back had to be taken off. I checked from inside the trunk. I can see the blue vacuum, going in, line properly attached. But, I can't see the outgoing 2 lines. I have run the engine and long pressed the button for several seconds. Nothing. I've a rear sunshade and I checked that too, it operates perfectly and is properly seated.

3. Parking Emergency Light - When I turn the headlight knob to the left, once for left and twice for right, neither bulb flashes. Can this be connected to the headrest problem? Both of the above are on the same fuse # 9, right?

TIA for helping me out with your advice.
 
Hello folks

Good Afternoon!

I've a few problems and researched the hell out of it, but couldn't find a clear answer. Hoping that someone can pinpoint and help me -

1. A/C center vent - Using the highlighted up arrow. I normally run on Low fan and not on Auto or High. Air comes from the side vents and not the center vents. But, the center vents feel cool and maybe, there's a slight, indiscernible flow. The vents open. I checked. I also replaced the climate control unit, but no difference.

2. Rear Headrests - They used to work. But, now suddenly don't. I can't lower the headrests. I have had the position of the button changed on the center console. Also, while installing the reverse camera, the back had to be taken off. I checked from inside the trunk. I can see the blue vacuum, going in, line properly attached. But, I can't see the outgoing 2 lines. I have run the engine and long pressed the button for several seconds. Nothing. I've a rear sunshade and I checked that too, it operates perfectly and is properly seated.

3. Parking Emergency Light - When I turn the headlight knob to the left, once for left and twice for right, neither bulb flashes. Can this be connected to the headrest problem? Both of the above are on the same fuse # 9, right?

TIA for helping me out with your advice.
1. Sounds like the center vent vacuum actuator is not working. You should ONLY feel cool or ambient temp air from the center vents, NEVER heated air. Probably need to pull the passenger airbag and check the vacuum tree there with a Mityvac handheld pump to see if the actuators are holding vacuum, or not. Then replace whatever is not working.

2. I know you said you checked the seating of the shade, but usually (95% of the time) the culprit here is not having the rear shade properly set in its slot, and not pressing the small switch on the end of the shade that's in the slot in, so that it allows the switch to electrically actuate the vacuum pods to drop the rests. Again, you can test the pods with a Mityvac to see if they are holding vacuum and working. I would DOUBLE-CHECK that the shade is actually down on both sides and that the small button switch is indeed depressed. You could also check to make sure (with a multimeter) that the vacuum pods are getting an electrical signal from the dashboard switch.

3. You may not understand how this function was designed to work. The bulbs should not flash. The switch sets each side's lamp as a solidly lit lamp, as a warning to oncoming drivers in the dark that that lamp's side of the car is perhaps a hazard on the road. One click of the switch to the left actuates one side and keeps the lamps on, a further click to the left illuminates the OTHER side's lamps (parking lamps). The only thing that flashes the lamps is the red "Flasher" switch, which flashes ONLY all FOUR of the lamps (at each corner).
 
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1. Sounds like the center vent vacuum actuator is not working. You should ONLY feel cool or ambient temp air from the center vents, NEVER heated air. Probably need to pull the passenger airbag and check the vacuum tree there with a Mityvac handheld pump to see if the actuators are holding vacuum, or not. Then replace whatever is not working.
The center vent feels cool, but there is no air coming out of it, unlike the side vents. What do you mean by ambient temp air? There is no heated air coming out.

2. I know you said you checked the seating of the shade, but usually (95% of the time) the culprit here is not having the rear shade properly set in its slot, and not pressing the small switch on the end of the shade in so that it allows the switch to electrically actuate the vacuum pods to drop the rests. Again, you can test the pods with a Mityvac to see if they are holding vacuum and working. I would DOUBLE-CHECK that the shade is actually down on both sides and that the small button switch is indeed depressed. You could also check to make sure (with a multimeter) that the vacuum pods are getting an electrical signal from the dashboard switch.
When you say pressing the small switch on the end of the shade, where exactly is it? And, yes, the shade is actually going down on both the sides, uniformly. Is it possible to lower the head rest manually, for now?
3. You may not understand how this function was designed to work. The bulbs should not flash. The switch sets each side's lamp as a solidly lit lamp, as a warning to oncoming drivers in the dark that that lamp's side of the car is perhaps a hazard on the road. One click of the switch to the left actuates one side and keeps the lamps on, a further click to the left illuminates the OTHER side's lamps (parking lamps). The only thing that flashes the lamps is the red "Flasher" switch, which flashes ONLY all FOUR of the lamps (at each corner).
Well, the bulb is not turning on, neither side. Is this a separate problem connected with the headrest or just some loose connection somewhere? I had replaced the knob unit + installed Euro lights.

Thanks @gerryvz for helping :)
 
@smoker,
The rear light on the driver’s side also will burn brighter when you pull the knob fully out. This was a Euro thing so an oncoming driver could tell you were on the side of the road and fully pulled out of the driving lanes.
 
@smoker,
The rear light on the driver’s side also will burn brighter when you pull the knob fully out. This was a Euro thing so an oncoming driver could tell you were on the side of the road and fully pulled out of the driving lanes.
This is not correct. The brighter taillight on the driver's side, activated as said when the knob is pulled out TWO detents (first detent is the spoiler-mounted front fog lamps on the E500E) is strictly a FOG LAMP, designed for drivers behind the car to be able to see the car ahead of them in dense fog. When the rear fog lamp is activated, the small brownish-yellow "dot" lens in the center of the headlamp switch should also light up.

Actually, the fog lamp became standard and included on US cars I believe around the 1991 or 1992 time frame on W124 models. My 1989 560SEC does not have the fog lamp feature (a US-spec car), while my 1994 E500 DOES have it.
 
The center vent feels cool, but there is no air coming out of it, unlike the side vents. What do you mean by ambient temp air? There is no heated air coming out.


When you say pressing the small switch on the end of the shade, where exactly is it? And, yes, the shade is actually going down on both the sides, uniformly. Is it possible to lower the head rest manually, for now?

Well, the bulb is not turning on, neither side. Is this a separate problem connected with the headrest or just some loose connection somewhere? I had replaced the knob unit + installed Euro lights.

Thanks @gerryvz for helping :)
Center vent air flow / vacuum pod issue:

Ambient temp air = outside air temperature. Usually indicated by the small LCD gauge at the bottom of the instrument cluster.

If the external air temperature is say, 70 degrees, that should be the ambient temp air as it flows into the car through the HVAC vents. Sometimes, at some ACC system settings, this ambient air can flow through the center vents in the dash - but generally mixed with cooled air with the AC system activated.

If nothing is coming out of the center vent, then very definitely the center vent actuator vacuum pod is inoperative. And likely at least one of the other five vacuum pods in the system is likely also not working. Again, you need to pull the glove box and use a MityVac hand vacuum pump to test the the vacuum tree -- specifically each of the six pods' ability to hold vacuum. This is at most a one-hour diagnostic that you can do yourself.

Latest vacuum pod availability is located here.


Rear head rest not going down + hazard light issue:

Have you checked the forum for these problems?

Screenshot 2023-06-22 at 11.30.36 AM.jpg Screenshot 2023-06-22 at 11.32.22 AM.jpg



Make sure the shade is fully depressed into its slot. It may take a manual push. There is a small electrical switch in the slot that MUST be depressed by the shade's top horizontal bar being fully engaged into the slot.

Here are photos of the shade not fully retracted, and then fully retracted, into the slot.

IMG_8653.jpeg IMG_8654.jpeg

Also, the engine must be running when the headrest down switch is activated. This is because the vacuum to operate the headrests comes from the engine running.

Per the threads above, please remove, inspect and replace the requisite fuse (#9?).
 
I don't think Fuse 9 is involved at all.

ETM shows fuse 8 for the parking/marker lamps. Rear headrest switch is fed by fuse 1.

1687454904700.png
 
I still believe Fuse 9 is a player in all of this.

Would hardly be the first time that the factory schematics do not reveal the true interconnectedness of the various systems emanating from and through the fuse box.
“DTDT” trumps all…
 
Hello folks

Sad to say that I crashed the car, Don't ask me how. It's left me with a hole in the heart and no car can replace this car. The car had 98000 miles on the odometer. The right side of the car and the rail were totally damaged. Everything else, including the radiator etc is undamaged.

USAA is offering me $15,500 after deductibles. I am new to this and I don't know how much should I ask for.

Please advise. I've to finish this asap.
 

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OH NO!! SO sorry about the accident. That looks like it will be expensive to fix.

The $15.5k offer isn't terrible but I'm sure you would like a bit more. I would strongly recommend getting a formal appraisal. Assuming the appraisal number is higher, that gives you some leverage to negotiate.

Note you do NOT have to settle this quickly. Insurance companies try to pressure you into a settlement. Take your time, do not rust anything.

:runexe:
 
The $15.5k offer isn't terrible but I'm sure you would like a bit more. I would strongly recommend getting a formal appraisal. Assuming the appraisal number is higher, that gives you some leverage to negotiate.

Note you do NOT have to settle this quickly. Insurance companies try to pressure you into a settlement. Take your time, do not rust anything.
I don't have access to any independent appraisers. At the same time, I do not see any E420s on sale to compare, especially cars as fully loaded as mine was.

What in your opinion would be a fair value to ask?

I've to stress that I am sailing on 06/23 and I'm out of time too :(
 
That’s shitty, so sorry to see this.

The only positive I can see is that the airbags deployed and hopefully saved you from any injuries.

I hope you get an insurance payout commensurate with the time, effort and costs you have expended.
 
I don't have access to any independent appraisers.
You'll need to hire one. I believe you can do this online, there are "remote" appraisers that will use your photos and documents to provide a valuation.


At the same time, I do not see any E420s on sale to compare, especially cars as fully loaded as mine was.
This will be VERY hard since your car had ASR, heated orthopedic seats, rear roller blind, in a rare color. Appraisers & insurance won't give you much additional value for the rare options, unfortunately.


What in your opinion would be a fair value to ask?
I really have no idea - I have not been following the 034 market in a very long time. See if you can find any for sale, or confirmation of sales on Bring a Trailer, that may help you. It will be difficult to get beyond around $20k or so as that's getting into 500E territory.


I've to stress that I am sailing on 06/23 and I'm out of time too :(
Ouch. That doesn't help. Is there any way you can keep the car and store it until you return? It would be a shame to let this go to salvage auction.

:wormhole:
 
Yes.

Thinking of accepting the offer today and buying a 2015 ML400. Has 88,863 miles on it for $15,000. Has almost everything, except parktronic.

My garage wants me to go in for a 2008-2009 E350 or a E500, but tbh, I'm tired of sitting low and having lights shined into my eyes. Plus, the extra space in the trunk and almost a better mileage is always welcome.

Your opinion?

Any 2015 ML owners on this board? :)

PS - I'm really hating to leave this board and buy a car which is not the W124. But, there's no way to buy another E420 with all the specs that I had. It was an unique car and seems like a part of me has died. I really loved that car.
 
I feel your pain. We lost our E420 a number of years ago (pics here) and I've been reluctant to reinvest the time/money into another modified build.

2015 ML450 is the W166 chassis. I like those, there are a lot of neat features on them. Sales brochure is here. I think @LWB250 owns a 166? Or maybe that was a 164... I forget. Someone else on the forum has a 166 too. Read up on the twin-turbo M276 engine issues, I don't think it has the same concern with scored cylinders as the M278/M157 big brothers.

:tumble:
 
I feel your pain. We lost our E420 a number of years ago (pics here) and I've been reluctant to reinvest the time/money into another modified build.

2015 ML450 is the W166 chassis. I like those, there are a lot of neat features on them. Sales brochure is here. I think @LWB250 owns a 166? Or maybe that was a 164... I forget. Someone else on the forum has a 166 too. Read up on the twin-turbo M276 engine issues, I don't think it has the same concern with scored cylinders as the M278/M157 big brothers.
I really am not in the mood to buy another car, not after having owned the E420 and specced to my needs, but in USA, you can't survive without a car.

The later models and other brands leave a lot to desire.
 
@smoker - So sad to see your w124 car journey come to such an abrupt end. You put some great parts into this car and it was such a clean example of an E420. Did insurance give you a cost to buy back the car itself? Might be worth it to grab some of the parts off of it.
 
I didn't ask and neither am I equipped to part out the car, store them and go thru the hassle of selling it.

just want a clean break.
 
I have a 2010 ML on ~155k miles. It’s probably got at least another 50k miles left in it but I’m nursing it to a degree as it’s an OM 642 and is showing signs of the common issues. I much prefer to tinker with the M119…

I honestly can’t see myself buying a newer car when the time comes. Quality is rubbish and cars are built to a price point not a quality level for the past decade or 2.

I WFH most of the week and it’s only about 10 miles door to door. I use the ML as a workhorse and earn tax free mileage from time to time which is nice.

I’m actually looking at a C124 as a replacement and foregoing the mileage and hiring a car for any business trips.

@smoker my ML is on 20” wheels and tyres are NOT cheap, it also drinks diesel for fun. Add into that the effing stupid UK VED rates I pay and my cost of ownership per mile is approaching supercar levels.
 
I have a 2010 ML on ~155k miles. It’s probably got at least another 50k miles left in it but I’m nursing it to a degree as it’s an OM 642 and is showing signs of the common issues. I much prefer to tinker with the M119…

I honestly can’t see myself buying a newer car when the time comes. Quality is rubbish and cars are built to a price point not a quality level for the past decade or 2.

I WFH most of the week and it’s only about 10 miles door to door. I use the ML as a workhorse and earn tax free mileage from time to time which is nice.

I’m actually looking at a C124 as a replacement and foregoing the mileage and hiring a car for any business trips.

@smoker my ML is on 20” wheels and tyres are NOT cheap, it also drinks diesel for fun. Add into that the effing stupid UK VED rates I pay and my cost of ownership per mile is approaching supercar levels.
Tires here are not cheap either. The Michelins on the E420 16" cost me $775 in 2023 and when my wife put the same ones on her Subaru 19", they were $1000 :(

Some of the pics of the ML400
 

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The tyre prices seem comparable.

Looks nice, what is the 2nd seat function button in photo 2? Cooling?

I must say Parktronic is great and I definitely miss it in cars which don’t have it.
 
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