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OWNER a777fan (E420)

I reset the all of the codes as well as the adaptation today on the LH module. We’ll see if I still get the zoomie cold starts happening.

I was going to deep clean the leather today, but got distracted with another project. Decided to take out the drivers side headlamp and inspect the fan resistor as the last step in troubleshooting my current running temp. Many posts talk about the heat load these little guys go through causing corrosion at the contacts, which leads to higher resistances in the circuit, which stresses out the already taxed 15 amp fuse. Given that my fuse was blown, I wanted to make sure there wasn’t anything fishy going on in there.

The FSM was pretty helpful in getting the headlight out. A few pics along the way.

Dirty side marker area
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Headlamp out, mystery cable clip found in bottom of headlight surround:
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Theres the little bugger:
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Headlight surround out:
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1st little safety cage removed:
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Removed:
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Contacts didn’t look too bad actually, but you can definitely see the heat cycling.
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Wires didn’t look too bad either:
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I hit them with a little sandpaper and acetone before I put them back regardless.

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While I was dinking around in there, i noticed that the IAT sensor had somehow become trapped under the drivers side distributor trim, and was being held against the serp belt [emoji51]

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I disassembled the connector:
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And tried to get some appropriate heat shrink tubing around the pins. That was not possible. I used the next size up, but had to then cover it with electrical tape to get the loose tubing to stay in place. I then covered the whole thing in high temp electrical tape. Needless to say, it ended up looking like shit.

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I had recently gotten a high temp soldering iron, so I figured that I would take it all apart again, and do it right.

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Kinda sorta proud of those re-solders: [emoji3]
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So much better!
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I need to order a new sensor and a new connector.


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That sensor should be held in place by a special (pricey) clip inside the air duct. The clip is often missing.
Nice clean headlight-area. [emoji106]
 
That sensor should be held in place by a special (pricey) clip inside the air duct. The clip is often missing.
Nice clean headlight-area. [emoji106]

Now that you mention it, there was a metal clip I found while removing all this, that might be the one you are referring to. Couldn’t find a spot for it when re-assembling. I’ll post a picture tomorrow.

Thanks for the compliment! This was one of the areas I couldn’t get to easily when I had the top of the engine apart. Now its clean too!


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Your resistor and wires are cleaner than any I've ever seen. The car must have spent a lot of time in a cool climate. The IAT wire repair looks great!

So, do the fans work on low speed now with a a new fuse in the cube relay? To test w/o running AC, you can short the leads at the red switch at the receiver/drier, with the ignition turned to position 2 (lights on, nobody home).

:watermelon:
 
I found it interesting that it was soooo clean. My wires were strands about 3-4" up the harness so it was all rebuilt but yours did look great.
 
The metal cover on the resistor should be removed - it was placed there to protect it from dripping plastic from the horn over the top of it. Remove the horn or remove the cover or both :) let that thing get as much air as possible.

Your horn is just fine. The stupid plastic horn cover is long gone. DO remove that perforated metal cover that currently enshrouds the resistor. THAT cover IS the devil's work.


Thanks guys. Can I remove the ENTIRE cover, IE - both pieces? Or just the perforated piece?
 
Your resistor and wires are cleaner than any I've ever seen. The car must have spent a lot of time in a cool climate. The IAT wire repair looks great!

So, do the fans work on low speed now with a a new fuse in the cube relay? To test w/o running AC, you can short the leads at the red switch at the receiver/drier, with the ignition turned to position 2 (lights on, nobody home).

:watermelon:

Thanks Dave! I'm not sure about the cool climate... It was originally sold at 'Von Hausen Motors' in Sacramento, and the original and longest owner lived in Fairfield. ?!?

I did confirm that the fans do turn on with the new fuse. I haven't upped to a 20A as advised by Klink, I figured I'd see how long a new stock 15amper lasts me, then make a decision.
 
only keep the resistor, the other isn't needed since as Klink said - the plastic on the horn is gone now. You want massive air flow and nothing preventing the heat from getting out of the resistor.
 
Oh, no zoomie cold start up this morning. Although its not super cold in the mornings right now to begin with. I'll keep monitoring.
 
I am fine with keeping the small rectangular section cover over the resistor, but that perforated L-shaped cover has got to go.

I might have missed it in other posts, but what is the function of the resistor?


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I might have missed it in other posts, but what is the function of the resistor?
The resistor makes the twin electric fans run at low speed, by reducing voltage to the fans. In the process, it dissipates heat.

:strawberry:
 
Spent some time this morning one four different items. Two were lingering from the top end ‘re-fresh’ and two were new.

1. Changed out the o2 sensor. Man that thing is in an awkward spot. Luckily I just happened to have a 22mm o2 socket laying around. Otherwise I never would have gotten it out.

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Old sensor on the bottom

And some closeups of the old one:

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I did not have any records of it being replaced, so I have no idea how many miles were on it. How does it look?

2. Replaced the spark plug wire suppressors for cylinders 5 and 6. No pics, but these two had high resistances when i went through all the plug wire components a few months ago.

3. Replaced the IAT sensor. One of the pins had broken off the original, allowing it to come loose and flop around the engine compartment. Hakkie also pointed out that there should be a clip holding the sensor in, which I was not aware of. I found a clip when i removed the headlight. I’m not sure its the correct one, but it sort of works, so I am happy.

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Nice n snug!

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Went for a drive. Man this thing idles smoothly now. I’m thinking the high resistance on plugs 5 and 6 were preventing full combustion, and causing the rich smell I was getting. Either that or the o2 was funky. Ah... forgot to mention. I reset the adaptation before the drive.

4. This one was cosmetic. I replaced the grille insert. This was a california car, and got its fair amount of sun. Hence the front grille was quite faded.

Old (L) v. New (R)

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And installed. Which was quite easy!

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I re-used the chrome strips for now, although they are quite beat up. We’ll see if they are obvious enough to bug me!


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So I've had a few days of driving around with the new O2 sensor and the new plug suppressors on 5&6, and I like the improvements. Power at part throttle seems to be up, and all in all the car feels much 'happier'

Additionally, I think the car is running cooler. I've thought about this, and come up with the following explanation. Let me know if you think it holds water.

- Additional resistance on plugs 5 & 6 reduced the efficiency of the combustion process in those cylinders, resulting in more unburnt fuel in the exhaust
- O2 sensor interpreted this extra unburned fuel in the exhaust as a rich mixture
- LH module in turn leaned out the fuel trims
- This lean operation resulted in the engine running hotter than it would normally

With the suppressors changed out, 5&6 are now back to fully burning the fuel they are given, and the O2 is no longer seeing a false 'rich' mixture. The LH is no longer errantly leaning out the fuel trims, and the engine runs cooler.

The temps here in the Seattle area have been cooler the last few days, so I'll have to wait for the summer weather to return to really test this out. But my notional temp gauge observations so far see a lot less movement in the needle at idle than I used to.
 
When i replaced the O2 sensor on my car i also could feel more "power". Good thing you changed it. Also nice you found the missing clip. [emoji106]
Happy car! [emoji2]
 
When i replaced the O2 sensor on my car i also could feel more "power". Good thing you changed it. Also nice you found the missing clip. [emoji106]
Happy car! [emoji2]

Thanks Hakie! Did I install it correctly? It didn't seem to fit well in any orientation I tried.
 
Spent some time this morning one four different items. Two were lingering from the top end ‘re-fresh’ and two were new.

4. This one was cosmetic. I replaced the grille insert. This was a california car, and got its fair amount of sun. Hence the front grille was quite faded.

Old (L) v. New (R)

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And installed. Which was quite easy!


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Mine is also quite faded (and like yours, my chrome strips are also pretty beat up).
Where did you source the replacement? Naperville / OE or are there other sources (I can't believe I'm asking this .... every time I go non OE for cosmetic parts I end up regretting the decision due to fit/finish problems....but I figure I'd ask. :-) )

Thanks.
 
Mine is also quite faded (and like yours, my chrome strips are also pretty beat up).
Where did you source the replacement? Naperville / OE or are there other sources (I can't believe I'm asking this .... every time I go non OE for cosmetic parts I end up regretting the decision due to fit/finish problems....but I figure I'd ask. :-) )

Thanks.

Yep! Naperville. The insert is a very reasonable (IMHO) $46 USD.

You can also buy the entire grille assembly, but that is like $400 and change [emoji51]


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Picked up some Dodo Supernatural Leather cleaner after JC220 recommended it via another thread. It works pretty well! The pictures are kinda hard to tell, but the driver seat looks much much better. Can’t wait to get the rest of it all done.

Before:

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Front bolster done:
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Amazing how dingy the rest of the seat looks in comparison.

The whole lower seat except the rear bolster done.
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There are some weird spots left after the cleaning on the front bolster, as illustrated in this video. Not sure if its residual stuff thats not coming off? Or...?

https://youtu.be/Scl8TqhnIT4


[video=youtube;Scl8TqhnIT4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Scl8TqhnIT4[/video]
 
If the dye is worn, then the cleaner will leave a "dark" spot. It will eventually dry out. But the seat cover in that area may need touch up dyeing.
 
Picked up some Dodo Supernatural Leather cleaner after JC220 recommended it via another thread. It works pretty well! The pictures are kinda hard to tell, but the driver seat looks much much better. Can’t wait to get the rest of it all done.

Great stuff! The Dodo Juice cleaner is the best I've used. That is a big difference on your 1x bolster!

Yes I think the patches is areas of worn Dye. If you could get it pro matched by sending off the armrest lid for example you should be able to just touch in those worn areas. Or if you feel brave do the whole seat! Just be sure they not only match the leather colour but also the Sheen level.
 
I did a quick search prior to posting this, but I'm curious about a behavior I have observed. When I stick the transmission in gear, R, D or anything else which results in motion... there seems to be a 'tick tick tick tick' emanating from under the car. I generally observe this when stopped with the windows down, next to something that can reverberate the noise, like a parking garage wall or similar. So its not very loud. I'm less certain its present when moving, simply because its pretty quiet and gets drowned out with road noise. Since this only happens in gear, I am postulating it has something to do with the transmission, which otherwise seems to shift quite well. No noticeable delay going into reverse or anything.

Is anything to be concerned about? Or am I being too sensitive (as usual...)
 
It is probably just coincidental thermal ticking of the exhaust system. Air conditioner condensate water dripping onto a hot exhaust system also often makes a sound that resembles a “tick”
 
It is probably just coincidental thermal ticking of the exhaust system. Air conditioner condensate water dripping onto a hot exhaust system also often makes a sound that resembles a “tick”

Interesting!

It might be... i guess the tranny moves around a bit when its in gear versus p and n. Maybe something is moving and contacting an exhaust member.

The gear lever does act like a light switch for the noise. P or N goes goes away. Anything else, the noise is there. Instantly.


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Here is an attempt to capture the tick tick tick. I got from drive, to neutral, and then back to drive.

Apologies for the lack of landscape. I took advantage of a drive through window wait!

[video=youtube;aUHPEegtN-Q]

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I’ve listened 4 times and don’t hear anything abnormal. Maybe listening live is different but the drivethru just magnifies every sound. Your car is not an electric Tesla, it’s a machine with machine sounds.

My solution, Get your burger and drink, roll up the windows and drive away. Next time park the car walk inside and place
your order. Problem Solved.
 
I’ve listened 4 times and don’t hear anything abnormal. Maybe listening live is different but the drivethru just magnifies every sound. Your car is not an electric Tesla, it’s a machine with machine sounds.

My solution, Get your burger and drink, roll up the windows and drive away. Next time park the car walk inside and place
your order. Problem Solved.

In-N-Out Burger for you Terry? :p Any time we are in Cali those are a must visit!

:bbq:
 
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Jon, in your video I *think* I can hear what sounds like a normal bottom-end engine noise, that I've heard on some of my M119's. It's a very rythmic tapping sound that will vary with engine RPM. Not sure if this is what you are referring to, but if so, it's nothing to worry about. I've had oil analyses done on most all my M119's and never had anything of concern in the report.

If it's a different noise, then I'm not hearing it in the video.

:detective:
 
Jon, in your video I *think* I can hear what sounds like a normal bottom-end engine noise, that I've heard on some of my M119's. It's a very rythmic tapping sound that will vary with engine RPM. Not sure if this is what you are referring to, but if so, it's nothing to worry about. I've had oil analyses done on most all my M119's and never had anything of concern in the report.

If it's a different noise, then I'm not hearing it in the video.

Thanks dave! The more I listen to it, I think your right.

The fact that I can hear it in gear is due to the fact that its louder at the lower gear engaged engine idle speed.

Thanks for all the diagnoses! I will once again be able to sleep at night. :P


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Got the monos mounted up today, and I am loving it.

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The shorter sidewall really adds to the steering feel. Turn in is much more crisp. The overall ride harshness isn’t that different either. I’m really diggin it.

The PS4s are slightly noisier than the primacy’s but thats to be expected.

Also, I didn’t realize the 8 holes were Ronal’s!

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Thanks dave! The more I listen to it, I think your right.

The fact that I can hear it in gear is due to the fact that its louder at the lower gear engaged engine idle speed.

Thanks for all the diagnoses! I will once again be able to sleep at night. :P

I'd like to hear a little better rendering, but it isn't frightening me too badly. Forgive me for not re-reading your entire restoration thread, but I'm assuming that since you've done so much, your oil tubes are A-OK?
 
I'd like to hear a little better rendering, but it isn't frightening me too badly. Forgive me for not re-reading your entire restoration thread, but I'm assuming that since you've done so much, your oil tubes are A-OK?

Sure did Klink! They were replaced with metal ones and new o-rings.


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Nothin like french tires on german cars! Amirite? :)

I love the Michelins --- they are correct!

On balance though, I have found Michelins seem to get brown much faster than Bridgestones. I don't know why this is. I have Michelins Pilot Super Sports and Bridgestone Potenza S04s side by side on two cars in the garage. The Bridgies start to need tire dressing after 1000 miles or so. The Michelins seem to cry out for dressing about 350 or so miles. Dunno why this is. (This is all dry weather driving - no precipitation)
 
Interesting. I am a Mich man through and through, so I never have another manufacturer to compare to!

Can’t get enough of Bibendum!


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