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RESTO PROJECT: M119 / W124 / E500 Engine Top-End Refresh

Totally agree on the 80+. I was driving mine earlier this week on very empty freeways around here, and it was just loving the higher speeds we were doing. I won't say how high but significantly above 80+.
 
Totally agree on the 80+. I was driving mine earlier this week on very empty freeways around here, and it was just loving the higher speeds we were doing. I won't say how high but significantly above 80+.
Come on, you can tell us. I hit 134-137 mph a few times a week, when conditions permit, on a certain stretch of my regular route, in my 400E. Can't go higher as there's an in-following highway lane further ahead with other cars always present and can't start accelerating sooner until after a turn out that is sometimes occupied by a highway patrolman :v8::woohoo:
 
I had my previous near 300k miles 1992 400E in excess of 120 mph on a local freeway at a very early hour of the morning. Like a 1976 Jaguar XJ12 that I worked on years ago as a mechanic, the perception of speed just wasn't there. In other words, you didn't feel like you were going that fast.

I haven't had the opportunity to take my current E420 out on the same road (yet), but I'm sure it would perform equally as well.

Dan
 
I had my ...1992 400E in excess of 120 mph on a local freeway ... the perception of speed just wasn't there. In other words, you didn't feel like you were going that fast.
This. ^^^

In a properly-sorted 124, and particularly V8 models, the only difference between 70mph and 140mph is that the tach and speedo needles are pointed more to the right side of the cluster. Maybe a tick more wind noise. Otherwise you want to flip on cruise control and fiddle with the radio, which lucky German residents get to actually do on the Autobahn, traffic permitting...

:wootrock:
 
I’ve had a few bursts to 140+ but in CA it’s pretty risky. One stretch is the end of a north/south frwy that you can see ahead for at least a mile to a rising ramp to an east/west frwy. When you pass the last offramp if its clear ahead you can punch it from 70-80 up to about 140 :wahoo: before you come up on the transition to the other frwy.

Just a cheap thrill unless you’re caught. That would be ugly. I think over 100 CA can crush your car.

One other time I was going to a Saturday early morning meeting at about 7:00 AM on basically an empty frwy. I was at about 100 and had just passed under an overpass when a CHP Officer on a motorcycle passed me on the right side and motioned me to slowdown then he went on his way. Whew!:jono:

I’ve been a pretty good boy since then. :)
 
Trivia: The existing hole is not for airflow to the resistor. There is supposed to be a short rubber hose connecting a hose barb on the headlight, that routes out through that hose. This keeps pressure from the "airbox" around the headlight from entering the headlight, potentially causing condensation to be pushed into the headlight housing.

The same headlight ventilation system is used on all 034/036.


View attachment 109681
Sorry for the hijacking the thread but do you happen to know how long is that hose and where it ends? And is there any picture where the hose/route could be seen? It seems to be available from the dealer..

Ps.
Just found this topic it has very useful info and great detailed pictures! Thanks Gerry for the excellent work!

jnes
 
Sorry for the hijacking the thread but do you happen to know how long is that hose and where it ends? And is there any picture where the hose/route could be seen? It seems to be available from the dealer..

Ps.
Just found this topic it has very useful info and great detailed pictures! Thanks Gerry for the excellent work!

jnes
You can see a couple of photos of this hose on the passenger side below.

I would say the length of hose is perhaps 7-8 cm at the most.

Cheers from Von Karman Drive
Irvine, CA

img_0752-jpg.110751


img_0754-jpg.110753


img_0757-jpg.110756
 
In response to a couple of folks who have asked about the so-called "finger foam" piece at the inside of the corners of the bumpers and fender area:

Part numbers are 124 628 51 98 (right side) and 124 628 55 98 (left side).

Both pieces are NLA from MB. RevParts sites say that both are available. Do not believe them.

img_0383-jpeg.109664
Another "dumb" question.. Are those foams E500E/E400E specific parts? Or can they be found pedestrian W124 models also?
-jnes
 
Another "dumb" question.. Are those foams E500E/E400E specific parts? Or can they be found pedestrian W124 models also?
-jnes
Those foam pieces 124 628 51 98 and 124 628 55 98 can be found on other 124's, appears to be mostly V8's and diesels... but not on every 124 model. It isn't clear in the EPC why some have them, and others do not.
 
Those foam pieces 124 628 51 98 and 124 628 55 98 can be found on other 124's, appears to be mostly V8's and diesels... but not on every 124 model. It isn't clear in the EPC why some have them, and others do not.
I heard that those foam parts are found only in facelift models (E500)? Can someone verify that?

Or is it also in 500E models?
 
Tonight I removed the crankshaft "hub" and harmonic balancer from the crankshaft. I used the puller I had, and a 3/4" box-end wrench to pull it off. It wasn't too much effort, but took a bit of strength. This exposed the leaking crankshaft seal, and the dirty area around the crank on the front of the timing cover and the top of the oilpan.

After installing the puller, I began turning the center shaft of the puller in a clockwise direction. This began the "pulling" action or the harmonic balancer and hub, together.
View attachment 101690


In the next couple of photos, you can see the hub and balancer progressively being pulled off of the crankshaft snout.
View attachment 101691 View attachment 101692


Here, the puller has been removed from the hub, and the hub has been extracted all of the way off of the crank snout. It can be removed by hand from here out. Note the black mark (made with a Sharpie marker) and the mark on the front of the block, to line up the hub and the crank (which has a Woodruff key on it for aligning the hub. Pull the hub off of the crank when it gets to this point.
View attachment 101693 View attachment 101694


With the hub removed from the crankshaft, I clamped it in a bench vise, and made a mark with a center punch where the Sharpie mark had been made with the hub on the car. Here you can see the center punch being used, and the small mark it made on the edge of the hub.
View attachment 101695 View attachment 101696


And here on the block, I made a corresponding mark with the center punch to formalize this marking I'd made earlier with a screwdriver. This will help when aligning the hub (with the Woodruff key) after installing the new front crank seal.
View attachment 101697 View attachment 101698


The next step is to thoroughly clean the area (I will block off the crank snout with tape to avoid dirt getting inside the engine past the seal). Then I will replace the seal, and re-install the hub, harmonic balancer and pulley. Note the pieces of corrugated wire and vacuum line sheathing that have flaked off over the years, and were sitting on top of the oil pan. These are also being removed. Hopefully the next installment will show "before" and "after" photos of the front of the timing cover being cleaned. I have 15 cans of brake cleaner ready to go to assist with cleaning!!
View attachment 101699View attachment 101700


Here are a few close-up views of the hub. You can clearly see the shiny area on the hub where the old crank seal rested. Although I couldn't "snag" this shiny area with my fingernail, I could definitely feel with my fingertips that the area was worn and slightly depressed from the rest of the hub surface.
View attachment 101701 View attachment 101702


Here's what the seal look like next to the hub, and resting on the hub in roughly the same position as the original seal. The trick will be to "set" the new seal in the end of the timing cover in a position where it is 2-3 mm off-set from the "old" crank seal position, which is where the shiny/depressed area is on the hub.
View attachment 101703 View attachment 101704


Here are a couple of close-up views of the hub, where you can really see the crank seal's resting area on the hub.
View attachment 101705 View attachment 101706
For the M104, do you sugggest using the standard seal or the repair seal?
 
Use the standard seal. It will be fine. You just may want to insert it to a slightly different depth than the original one was at.
 
For the M104, do you sugggest using the standard seal or the repair seal?
As Gerry said, use the standard seal. However BEFORE removing the old one, try to measure the position relative to the timing cover face. Ideally you want the replacement to be ~3mm away from the old position. If it was flush with the surface, use the seal install tool to press the new one in 3mm deeper.

If the exisitng/old seal is slightly recessed already (1.0-1.5mm) you may want to install the new seal slightly protruding. My M104 had the existing/leaking seal flush and I installed it 3mm deeper/inset, click here for photos.

I'm not sure what the factory position is on M104 but most M119's seem to have the seal slightly recessed, and if I'm replacing one of those, I set it 3mm further out from the original position, as shown below.

crank_seal8_protruding.jpg
 
More parts added to the bottom of the list.


Part NumberList PriceNet Price I PaidQuantitySourceOrderedNotes
119 200 15 0185.5085.501Pelican PartsJan-2018Graf water pump for M119.
119 201 03 805.255.251Pelican PartsJan-2018Genuine MB water pump gasket to engine.
120 997 03 466.506.502Pelican PartsJan-2018Elring crankshaft seal (ordered 2).
BM 116-0140114.95114.951Pelican PartsJan-2018Baum Tools M117/M119 crankshaft lock.
119 078 00 814.003.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase vapor hose rubber elbow
102 094 02 122.401.752MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
119 094 02 124.503.381MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
119 094 03 1214.5010.751MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
119 094 26 8216.5012.131MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather elbow hose
119 094 27 8219.5014.381MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 28 8240.0030.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 31 8228.5021.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 40 8220.0015.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 44 8228.5021.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 55 8233.5025.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 71 8233.5025.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
000 987 27 2710.507.882MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase vapor hard plastic line. Superseded from 129 987 10 27
117 990 15 782.201.634MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
117 997 01 902.401.751MB AnnapolisApr-2018Breather hose clamp
126 997 06 900.700.501MB AnnapolisApr-2018Breather hose clamp
119 050 02 1619.5014.381MB AnnapolisApr-2018Timing chain rail - top
119 050 03 1622.0016.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Timing chain rail - top
119 052 09 1614.5010.632MB AnnapolisApr-2018Timing chain plastic "comb" guide
119 052 11 1614.5010.632MB AnnapolisApr-2018Top timing chain rail - cylinder head
119 052 13 1664.0047.501MB AnnapolisApr-2018Timing chain slide rail, driver's side
119 094 45 8214.0010.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Smog pump hose
119 094 46 8228.5021.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Smog pump hose
119 094 47 8212.509.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Smog pump hose
119 094 72 8224.5018.131MB AnnapolisApr-2018Smog pump hose. Superseded from 119 094 57 82
000 141 94 25379.00379.001RFC ElectronicsApr-2020Rebuild and test existing ETA by Don Roden
000 987 27 272.442.443AutohausAZApr-20203 meters Cohline large diameter black crankcase breather line
018 997 79 474.164.162AutohausAZApr-2020Elring M119 camshaft seals
119 141 26 8012.3912.391AutohausAZApr-2020Elring M119 intake manifold gasket, right side
119 141 15 809.719.711AutohausAZ
Apr-2020
Elring M119 intake manifold gasket, left side
HC 608091.681.682AutohausAZApr-2020Norma/Gemi MAF-ETA boot clamps. Ended up re-using MB clamps
000 158 14 351.871.8710AutohausAZApr-202010 meters Cohline vacuum line, white
119 142 08 801.941.941AutohausAZApr-2020Elring EGR valve gasket
116 200 03 1518.4918.491AutohausAZApr-2020Wahler thermostat for M117/M119
117 997 09 821.771.771AutohausAZApr-20201 meter Cohline black rubber vacuum line
124 682 07 2643.1343.131AutohausAZApr-2020GK W124 hood pad (without aluminum foil rectangle)
008 542 45 1716.1516.151FCP EuroApr-2020Beru two-prong coolant temp sensor at intake manifold
005 542 26 1727.5027.501FCP EuroApr-2020Beru one-prong coolant temp sensor at intake manifold
008 542 32 1720.6120.611FCP EuroApr-2020Beru four-prong coolant temp sensor at intake manifold
119 158 01 0261.0961.092FCP EuroApr-2020Beru M119 distributor caps
119 158 01 8845.3745.372FCP EuroApr-2020Bosch M119 distributor insulators
003 094 61 0411.2811.282FCP EuroApr-2020Two Mann M119 air filters
007603 0141040.050.053FCP EuroApr-2020Three Elring coolant temp sensor aluminum washers
601 078 02 456.754.801MB AnnapolisApr-2020Crankcase air hose joint
117 078 02 813.702.647MB AnnapolisApr-2020Black rubber vacuum hose connector. Superseded from 117 078 01 81.
119 078 00 813.902.761MB AnnapolisApr-2020
120 078 01 816.004.202MB AnnapolisApr-2020Superseded from 140 176 15 26.
117 140 02 659.006.008MB AnnapolisApr-2020Superseded from 117 140 02 65 64.
119 142 01 802.401.682MB AnnapolisApr-2020EGR pipe gasket at intake manifold
119 158 05 8521.0015.001MB AnnapolisApr-2020Black plastic surround for cam solenoids & distributors that mounts to front of cylinder head cover.
119 158 06 8519.5013.801MB AnnapolisApr-2020Black plastic surround for cam solenoids & distributors that mounts to front of cylinder head cover. Superseded from 119 158 03 85.
116 276 09 293.202.282MB AnnapolisApr-2020Plastic connector for crankcase vapor hoses
123 276 16 301.400.962MB AnnapolisApr-2020Plastic vacuum line
123 276 19 304.403.122MB AnnapolisApr-2020Plastic vacuum line
012 545 04 282.001.449MB AnnapolisApr-2020Plastic two-prong pin bushing housings
000 995 52 442.501.683MB AnnapolisApr-2020Drain hose clamp
000 995 58 44 641.501.081MB AnnapolisApr-2020Superseded from 000 995 58 44.
000 995 23 651.701.202MB AnnapolisApr-2020
000 995 66 654.903.482MB AnnapolisApr-2020Dual cable clip. Superseded from 115 995 03 65.
001 997 81 524.002.881MB AnnapolisApr-2020Superseded from 014 997 87 82.
002 997 24 90 642.401.682MB AnnapolisApr-2020Zip tie. Superseded from 001 997 83 90.
003 997 72 901.501.082MB AnnapolisApr-2020
040621 0082002.501.801MB AnnapolisApr-2020
040621 0102003.402.401MB AnnapolisApr-2020
040621 0162004.002.881MB AnnapolisApr-2020
119 200 03 85NLA49.921eBayApr-2020MB water pump reservoir **NLA**. Purchased from eBay vendor.
119 158 02 3132.4632.462eBayApr-2020Two Beru M119 distributor rotors. Purchased from eBay vendor. Difficult to find
B07PFQSXK714.9914.991AmazonApr-2020Fuel injector rebuild kit for Bosch fuel injectors.
FK3OV4-278.898.891AmazonApr-20203/4" drive, 27mm impact-rated socket for tightening M119 crankshaft bolt
20401314.8714.871AmazonApr-202010 feet of 1/4" Heatshield Products Hotrod Sleeve for underhood vacuum lines
20401223.7523.751AmazonApr-202010 feet of 1/2" Heatshield Products Hotrod Sleeve for underhood vacuum lines
2435074.3374.331Home DepotApr-2020Tekton 3/4" drive torque wrench with high torque capacity
111 051 00 439.506.722MB AnnapolisMay-2020Cam solenoid armature. Supersedes 104 051 04 43.
119 051 00 77109.0078.002MB AnnapolisMay-2020Cam solenoid. Must be paired with armature 111 051 00 43. Supersedes 119 051 01 77.
119 201 01 802.401.681MB AnnapolisMay-2020Water pump top housing gasket. Supersedes 117 201 01 80.
119 202 02 222.401.681MB AnnapolisMay-2020Belt tensioner round plastic cover. Supersedes 119 202 01 22.
119 203 03 825.503.961MB AnnapolisMay-2020Large diameter short top coolant hose between water pump top housing and intake manifold.
129 505 07 8627.0019.201MB AnnapolisMay-20201 meter, rubber seal between vertical side of radiator and radiator support. Supersedes 129 505 08 86.
124 830 54 9635.0025.201MB AnnapolisMay-2020Coolant hose between rear of intake manifold and heater core inlet.
124 830 76 9659.0042.001MB AnnapolisMay-2020Coolant hose between rear of block and coolant recirculation pump. Supersedes 124 832 64 93.
001 989 89 20 1034.5024.601MB AnnapolisMay-202050mL tube of orange anaerobic ("koala claw") sealant. Newly supersedes to 002 989 47 20 10.
000 990 44 921.200.843MB AnnapolisMay-2020Small plastic rivets that attach rubber seal that protects top of condenser to upper radiator support.
000 995 92 426.504.683MB AnnapolisMay-2020Black rubber 1-inch hose mounting clamp for high-pressure SLS line to oilpan area. Supersedes 000000 001045.
015 997 23 48 645.002.401MB AnnapolisMay-2020Extra round rubber thermostat gasket (M117/M119). Supersedes 015 997 23 48.
001481 0030312.101.464MB AnnapolisMay-2020Cam solenoid armature pins.
000 094 17 6010.007.081MB AnnapolisMay-2020M119 airbox rubber gasket around top of MAF.
104 990 10 043.202.282MB AnnapolisMay-2020M119 cam solenoid armature stretch bolts. Supersedes 914008 005000.
916016 0202014.403.123MB AnnapolisMay-2020Small gray 1/2-inch rubber cable clamps.
119 010 13 3034.5024.601MB NapervilleOct-2018M119 valve cover gasket, left. From parts stock.
119 010 14 3035.0025.201MB NapervilleOct-2018M119 valve cover gasket, right. From parts stock.
124 501 61 82117.0084.001MB NapervilleOct-2018Lower radiator hose to expansion tank. From parts stock.
220 997 16 5260.0042.601MB NapervilleOct-2018Transmission cooling hose, right side. From parts stock.
019 997 41 8267.0048.001MB NapervilleOct-2018Transmission cooling hose, left side. From parts stock.
007603 0061061.901.3218MB NapervilleOct-2018Copper valve cover washers. From parts stock (I have ~125 of them).
103 988 01 116.504.684MB NapervilleJan-2017Rubber intake box mounts. From parts stock.
1Transmission pan gasket. From parts stock.
1Elring transmission filter. From parts stock.
1Hengst oil filter. From parts stock.
1Mann power steering fluid filter. From parts stock.
1Behr radiator
119 010 00 627.005.041MB AnnapolisMay-2020Brown plastic MB oil separator for cylinder head.
119 016 03 8014.009.961MB AnnapolisMay-2020Rubber sealing gasket for brown timing chain top guide.
119 016 05 8013.009.121MB AnnapolisMay-2020Rubber sealing gasket for brown timing chain top guide.
119 016 01 8122.0015.601MB AnnapolisMay-2020Rubber "funnel hose" for oil separator in cylinder head.
119 094 00 934.503.242MB AnnapolisMay-2020Spring clips for valve covers, to help position and retain airbox when mounted atop engine.
201 805 02 227.255.161MB AnnapolisMay-2020"Crows-foot" vacuum connector for vacuum distributor located above brake booster / fuse box area.
104 990 00 222.902.046MB AnnapolisMay-2020Small screws used for mounting cam adjuster to end of intake cam. Due to FSM error, probably redundant and not needed for job.
126 800 00 7831.0022.202MB AnnapolisMay-2020Three-way vacuum valve located above brake booster, to replace original vacuum valves.
000 995 74 444.503.242MB AnnapolisMay-2020Plastic clamp for lower wiring harness near alternator.
000 995 80 443.702.642MB AnnapolisMay-2020Smaller version of plastic clamp per above, for deep-parts stock purposes.
124 520 02 0573.0052.201MB AnnapolisMay-2020Passenger side cooling pipe for engine mount, for deep-parts stock purposes.
I'm ready to start assembling the required pieces to refresh my top end at some point. I think this list --- in post #174 --- is THE list of parts to get (outside of completely NLA parts like the tank to catch excess overflow coolant) --- correct? Thanks.
 
It’s probably pretty close. But there are always more parts…..I was shocked at how much needed replacing.

And the stuff I did made the GVZ $10K rule look like mouse nuts. What I did would probably have run $20-25K at a shop.
 
More parts added to the bottom of the list.


Part NumberList PriceNet Price I PaidQuantitySourceOrderedNotes
119 158 05 8521.0015.001MB AnnapolisApr-2020Black plastic surround for cam solenoids & distributors that mounts to front of cylinder head cover.
119 158 06 8519.5013.801MB AnnapolisApr-2020Black plastic surround for cam solenoids & distributors that mounts to front of cylinder head cover. Superseded from 119 158 03 85

Hi Gents. Is there a replacement for 119-158-06-85 perhaps? It seems to be NLA. The other side 05-85 is still available. Thanks.
 
Not that I am aware of. If it is indeed NLA, it’s fairly recent. I saved my old ones. They were in decent condition.

I only got new ones because they were pretty cheap, and avaialble, and a "soft part" under the hood....so why not ?!?

Perhaps parts for people to harvest in the future from 140s and such in the wrecking yards, as long as they are in good condition.
 
Not that I am aware of. If it is indeed NLA, it’s fairly recent. I saved my old ones. They were in decent condition.

I only got new ones because they were pretty cheap, and avaialble, and a "soft part" under the hood....so why not ?!?

Perhaps parts for people to harvest in the future from 140s and such in the wrecking yards, as long as they are in good condition.
I’ve discovered that it usually is best to call around the dealerships even when the part is listed as discontinued. You never know there might just be one lying around somewhere. It’s time-consuming but doing so paid off for me.
When I tried to get the fan bracket for my M104, it was listed as NLA, but Nick at MB Naperville was kind enough to do a search for me, and he found one ‘somewhere’, apparently the ‘last one’ in the US.
 
Hi Gents. Is there a replacement for 119-158-06-85 perhaps? It seems to be NLA. The other side 05-85 is still available. Thanks.
There is no replacement. This is a fairly recent NLA that I was not aware of.

You don't need to replace this plastic frame unless it's damaged. Usually, the damage is the "prong" is broken off that retains the retainer clip for the plug wires (and, that driver-side retainer clip 119-158-01-73 has been NLA for years, but could be 3D printed easily).

If yours are intact, you don't need either side. The covers are more often damaged (119-158-02-85 left, 119-158-04-85 right), either the tiny prong at the inside bottom corner is broken, or the upper square hole is broken that locks the cover in place.
 
The @gsxr is correct - these plastic frame parts typically DO NOT need to be replaced, unless a prior "mechanic" was in there and somehow they were stressed or broken, such as when replacing the cam solenoids or seals, or replacing spark plug wires. The mounting holes are metal-reinforced, so again they typically don't break unless someone who didn't know what they were doing somehow cracked them.

Most people won't really need to replace them.
 
More parts added to the bottom of the list.
Part NumberList PriceNet Price I PaidQuantitySourceOrderedNotes
102 094 02 122.401.752MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
119 094 02 124.503.381MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
119 094 03 1214.5010.751MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
119 094 26 8216.5012.131MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather elbow hose
119 094 27 8219.5014.381MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 28 8240.0030.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 31 8228.5021.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 40 8220.0015.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 44 8228.5021.251MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 55 8233.5025.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
119 094 71 8233.5025.001MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose
000 987 27 2710.507.882MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase vapor hard plastic line. Superseded from 129 987 10 27
117 990 15 782.201.634MB AnnapolisApr-2018Crankcase breather hose joint
117 997 01 902.401.751MB AnnapolisApr-2018Breather hose clamp
126 997 06 900.700.501MB AnnapolisApr-2018Breather hose clamp

May I ask --- in the bold above, where does part 000-987-27-27 (or superseded 129-987-10-27) come from?
I have identified all the other ones not in bold on diagram 119.974 - 14 - 030 as follows:

Screen Shot 2021-08-05 at 3.12.39 PM.png

But I cannot find the applicability of this part number to the M119.974 in the context of the work @gerryvz that you did? 000-987-27-27 (or superseded 129-987-10-27)
I see the following diagram for the SL500:

Screen Shot 2021-08-05 at 3.15.19 PM.png

And I see that the part is used for the charcoal filter for the 124.036, but I dont remember @gerryvz you touching the charcoal filter. Am I missing something obvious? Thanks.

Screen Shot 2021-08-05 at 3.18.00 PM.png
 
000-987-27-27 is the 8mm OD black Tecalan tubing from the intake manifold, to the purge ("MOT") valve near the EZL. It would be considered part of the replacement of all the PCV toobies. See engine group 14, subgroup 125, callout 32. Two meters are required (1.6m needed).


1628209465548.png
 
000-987-27-27 is the 8mm OD black Tecalan tubing from the intake manifold, to the purge ("MOT") valve near the EZL. It would be considered part of the replacement of all the PCV toobies. See engine group 14, subgroup 125, callout 32. Two meters are required (1.6m needed).


View attachment 136311
Thank you!!!! I don't know how I missed that on my gsheet!
 
@gerryvz @gsxr

Question if you don't mind --- I spent several hours going through that awesome exhaustive parts list --- thank you!
In this diagram below, I noticed that the only parts on your parts list are those that are highlighted - 104, 119, 122, and 137.
If you had to do it all over again, would you again just replace those four parts, or would you replace more of all that razzmatazz there, like 125, 98, 101, etc etc etc...?

1628225050388.png
 
Not necessarily needed to replace those peripheral parts because they are not soft parts. The parts I replaced are soft parts / rubber hoses. The other parts you mentioned are not soft parts, and thus were not degraded.

Any part I found (clamps, etc) that were compromised or degraded were ordered and replaced. Examples would be zip ties, or the clamps that hold the transmission cooler lines to the edges of the oil pan. Some degraded stuff like those clamps were not discovered until I was into the job, and then put on a subsequent parts order.

I cannot tell you enough the value of thoroughness, and taking one’s time to do the job.

Realistically, I could probably have done this job in two months instead of the five that it took me. I contracted Lyme Disease and babesiosis in the middle of it, which took me out for the better part of a month, and otherwise because of COVID just took my time. The scope creep also contributed, but in the end the job was much more thorough and satisfying. It was a long and strange journey from the original quest to merely replace a badly leaking front crank seal…..
 
May I ask --- in the bold above, where does part 000-987-27-27 (or superseded 129-987-10-27) come from?
I have identified all the other ones not in bold on diagram 119.974 - 14 - 030 as follows:

View attachment 136300

But I cannot find the applicability of this part number to the M119.974 in the context of the work @gerryvz that you did? 000-987-27-27 (or superseded 129-987-10-27)
I see the following diagram for the SL500:

View attachment 136301

And I see that the part is used for the charcoal filter for the 124.036, but I dont remember @gerryvz you touching the charcoal filter. Am I missing something obvious? Thanks.

View attachment 136302
I did not mess with the charcoal filter. Didn’t see that I needed to. Even the purge valve was not in the original scope, until I determined that it was not working.

I would bet that 95% of peoples’ purge valves on this forum are not working. But they have no idea this is the case.
 
Hi Gerry.
Do you have a part number for the vapour line that runs from the mot valve to the top of the engine ?
Thanks.
 
Hi Gerry.
Do you have a part number for the vapour line that runs from the mot valve to the top of the engine ?
Thanks.
It's the black larger-diameter Tecalan tubing. MB part number 000 987 27 27. You need 1600mm of this tubing. It should be ordered by the meter from MB, so you'll have to get 2 meters.

CO-0009872727.jpg
 
Today I spent about 4.5 hours out in the shop, while the forum's software restore from backup was ongoing. I'll talk about that in another thread.

Only had one photo from last night, before my camera died. That was the first photo of loosening the cam cover bolts, which are 5mm Allen-head bolts. I loosened a few on the driver's side, but loosened all of the bolts on the passenger side cam cover, and removed it from the car, as mentioned.
View attachment 102502


This morning, when I started working on the car, I focused on cleaning up the front cover for the passenger side cylinder head. Here is what it looked like after about 30 minutes' work -- as compared to the driver's side cover, which is still installed on the car. I used a Scotch Brite pad soaked in brake cleaner to scrub off all of the old anaerobic sealant, with a razor blade tip used to get in the corners where the pad couldn't reach. Chlorinated brake cleaner works well to soften up the dried-up anaerobic sealant. Anyhoo, here's what it looked like when I was done cleaning.
View attachment 102503


Before I started scrubbing the cylinder head cover in earnest, I pressed out the old (reddish-brown) camshaft seal from the cover using a 30mm impact socket. Worked well, and the seal came right out. Here is what the seal looked like, compared to the new (black) Elring seal that was soon to be pressed into the cylinder head cover.
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The old camshaft seal was noticeably stiffer and more fossilized than the new seal, particularly along the sealing edge that touches the camshaft. I also could see small "micro cracks" in the surface of the seal, telling me that it was probably not far away from causing a major oil leak and in strong need of replacement.

Using the other (slightly smaller diameter) ratchet end of the same 30mm socket, and a hammer, I was able to drive in the new seal carefully, and evenly. I used small hammer blows in a pattern all around the seal, which worked well. I pressed the new seal about 0.5mm below the front edge of the cylinder head cover. However, seeing as the old seal was around 1.5 mm below the front edge, and the fact that there is plenty of room behind the area to press the seal further in, I think I am going to press the new seal about 2-2.5mm further in, so it rests in a different spot that is further back on the camshaft.

Here are a few photos of the pressed-in seal, showing from the back-side that there is plenty of room to press it in further. Again, I think I'm going to push it in about 2mm further.
View attachment 102506 View attachment 102507 View attachment 102508


Next are a couple of photos of the camshaft area and the front of the cylinder head, as I began cleaning them with a Scotch Brite pad and brake cleaner. The first photo shows things about 30% cleaned; the second photo shows things about 80% cleaned.
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Next up, I turned my attention to the smog pump. After some deliberation in recent days, I decided to remove it for a few reasons:

1) To clean up the area underneath and behind it;
2) To replace all four of the smog pump hoses, which I'd ordered new ones of back in early 2018;
and 3) because I was curious as hell about the area !!



The first thing I did was to remove the sleeve containing the two vacuum lines from the vacuum valve behind the passenger-side front headlight to the intake manifold. These lines were fossilized, and one had actually cracked multiple times in the past! I threaded the sleeve with the vac lines through the smog pump bracket, and moved the lines out of the way. All of these will be replaced, of course, in due time.....
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This freed the smog pump to be removed. It is held to the front of the cylinder head by three 13mm bolts. Two of the bolts are the same size, and the third (lower) bolt is much longer. I made short work of removing them, noting when they came out that they were encapsulated with anaerobic sealant to prevent oil leaks.
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After removing the three bolts, the smog pump came free, as you can see.
View attachment 102518


This also freed up space and line of sight to remind me of all of the dirt and grime that I'd missed in my earlier cleaning behind and below the smog pump and alternator. Sigh....
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With the smog pump removed, it was time to start removing the hoses that connect it to the engine. I was very glad I did. I rotated the smog pump about 90 degrees and after loosening a couple of spring clamps, the hoses started coming free.
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Here are the hoses and valve assembly, as removed from the engine.
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And it was time to break out my bags of new MB rubber smog pump hoses. No Harbor Fright smell here.....
View attachment 102528


Some comparison photos of the old and new smog pump hoses.
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A couple of the hoses had to be persuaded off with the tip of a flat-blade screwdriver.
View attachment 102534


A photo of the smog pump hose carnage ... but I'm not done yet !!!
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The short hose that connects the smog pump to the engine was stubborn, so I just turned the smog pump more until the hose ripped off.
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Here's the new smog pump hose that connects the pump to the engine, loose and installed. Notice how all of the clamps and the valve are nicely cleaned in the next photos.
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NOTE: I can not tell you enough how badly the smog pump hoses were fossilized. They were so hard that if I would have thrown one, it would have easily broken a window, or given someone a concussion if it hit them in the head. All of the smog pump hoses are cheap from MB, and TOTALLY WORTH replacing. Particularly if you are "in there" doing an alternator replacement, a smog pump replacement, or this type of top-end job. Again, this is easily $500 of ALL cars' $5,000 or $10,000 of deferred maintenance. Age and heat kill this rubber.


With all new smog pump hoses re-installed, it was time to break out the ... yes, you got it !! .... orange koala-claw MB anaerobic sealant goo. This is EXPENSIVE stuff, but contains as I said, koala-bear claws, Japanese-grown satsuma pulp, and other esoteric ingredients to warrant that expense.
View attachment 102542 View attachment 102543 View attachment 102544


It's imperative to coat the ends of the 13mm bolts that hold the smog pump bracket to the cylinder head with the orange koala-claw goo.
View attachment 102545


Then you can tighten the bolts, to re-attach the smog pump to the cylinder head.
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Here's what things look like, re-assembled. It took me a LONG time to remove, clean, and then re-assemble everything, but it was totally worth it. Very happy.
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Next, just for a change of pace, I turned my attention to the valve covers. I will be replacing the valve covers with ones I had powder-coated red a couple of years ago. Here's what they look like, side by side. I did install the valve cover gasket to this passenger-side cover. After that wind-down, I called it a day.
View attachment 102550View attachment 102551
Hello Gerry,

I removed the smog pump the other day and put it back without using the MB anaerobic sealant and now I have a massive oil leak that is coming from somewhere near the smog pump... Do you think these two things are related?

I also don´t have any of the smog pump hoses attached because they all broke and I haven´t found (locally) replacement hoses yet. Can oil leak from here too?
 
I removed the smog pump the other day and put it back without using the MB anaerobic sealant and now I have a massive oil leak that is coming from somewhere near the smog pump... Do you think these two things are related?
I'm not a Gerry, nor do I play one on TV, but it's very likely your work is related to the leak. The air pump bracket bolts require anaerobic sealant (MB or aftermarket) on the bolts, or there will be a significant oil leak. See attached photo.


I also don´t have any of the smog pump hoses attached because they all broke and I haven´t found (locally) replacement hoses yet. Can oil leak from here too?
There should be no oil leaking from the air hoses.

cleaning3.jpg
 
The smog pump hoses just inject air into the exhaust, so that is all that they contain. You can only order these hoses from the dealership. As I recall they are not super cheap, but won't break your bank account either. In any case, they are a once in an ownership replacement. I would say that around 95% of the people on this forum have completely fossilized smog pump hoses that would break a window if removed and thrown at it. But....out of sight, out of mind......

Yes, the smog pump [bracket] bolts MUST use the anaerobic sealant to prevent oil from escaping. That is 100% the cause of your oil leakage problem. Unfortunately, you will have to remove the pump and do the job over. Order the hoses from the dealership. I think I had all of them laid out -- as I recall there are three or four hoses. It's why I try to document my steps carefully for the benefit of others who come later.....
 
Those Beru rotors are reboxed OE/Genuine Doduco. If you look closely at the top you'll find the MB part number, and also the Star log, both covered in lacquer.

:shocking:
Is this still true in 2022?
They appear to be red in FCP's listing vs black-colored Gerry installed

1654528224192.png
 
Is this still true in 2022?
They appear to be red in FCP's listing vs black-colored Gerry installed
I think you missed this discussion in the last year or two. Beru changed what they rebox. Previously it was OE Doduco, now it is reboxed Facet with a slightly different Beru part number so you can tell the difference. Deets are at this link. Since FCP has t hem on clearance, I'd suspect either they are going NLA, or FCP had too many warranty claims and they are dropping them from their catalog.

If you can find any of the old-stock Beru/Doduco (possibly at NAPA) for a low enough price, great. Otherwise, shell out ~$90/ea for OE, 119-158-02-31. But do not buy the orange/Facet/Berus. Second choice would be Bosch from FCP with lifetime warranty.

:spend:
 
Now, it's time to turn to the cylinder head cover itself. Examining it closely, I could see that the cam seal was inset into the cover about 2mm. I will try to take better photographs, but when I replace it with the new seal, I will only inset it around 0.5mm into the cover. This should give about a 1.5mm off-set from the original position of the seam against the camshaft.
102611-383ffad376fbdc93b4c8f9cae00bcf25.jpg 102612-fb11ea1ead8e273c06ba3434548ab27f.jpg
Is this more of a theory, or more of an empirical observation that if the new seal is installed in the same spot the old one was in (camshaft, crankshaft, etc) it will leak?
 
Is this more of a theory, or more of an empirical observation that if the new seal is installed in the same spot the old one was in (camshaft, crankshaft, etc) it will leak?
It's somewhere in the FSM that in general, if replacing a radial seal that has been in the same position for a long period of time (say, 100kmi or more) then the new seal should be located 2-3mm away from the original location. Applies to crank seals front & rear, and these cam seals too. Crank/hub seals should be ~3mm different as discussed previously, cam might be ok with 1.5-2.0mm.

Any time you replace a radial seal, carefully inspecting the sealing surface of the shaft (crank/hub, or cam sprocket) for ridges or other abnormal wear / pitting / etc.

Be careful though, if a seal was replaced previously, it may have already been moved from the factory-installed position. In that case you want the new seal to be at the best surface of the shaft, and not accidentally move it back to a more-worn area. YMMV, etc.

:klink3:
 
A pintle cap is the small replaceable piece of the injector designed to protect the fragile pintle end of a fuel injector.
During the installation/extraction phase? Otherwise it has bearing on the functionality of injector at all, right?
 
During the installation/extraction phase? Otherwise it has bearing on the functionality of injector at all, right?
I suppose primarily during installation and extraction yes. But in any case make sure they are all present and in good condition.

I do renew the injector o rings and pintle caps etc when I have the injectors out and also ultrasonic clean, flow and drip test them.
 
No. I still get 16~17 MPG around town. My latest fillup on Sat shows 19.5 MPG for a brisk drive from NYC home a few weeks back. Can’t complain about that.
Understood, thanks. I was curious if the disconnected vacuum line to the air pump that you've discovered at initial disassembly stage and partially clogged EGR pipe had any effect on the fuel economy
 
Understood, thanks. I was curious if the disconnected vacuum line to the air pump that you've discovered at initial disassembly stage and partially clogged EGR pipe had any effect on the fuel economy
The air pump and EGR primarily affect emissions (at different points in the warmup/operating cycle) but should not affect overall fuel economy.
 
A pintle cap is the small replaceable piece of the injector designed to protect the fragile pintle end of a fuel injector.
If you do replace the pintle caps, make sure that you enlarge the hole in the replacement caps to the same diameter as the original caps. I think I documented this in my HOW-TO ... I just used a drill press and a socket to hold the cap for drilling, after I measured the original caps' diameter using a drill bit.

The replacement caps' holes tend to be too small as they come.
 
If you do replace the pintle caps, make sure that you enlarge the hole in the replacement caps to the same diameter as the original caps. I think I documented this in my HOW-TO ... I just used a drill press and a socket to hold the cap for drilling, after I measured the original caps' diameter using a drill bit.

The replacement caps' holes tend to be too small as they come.
I got my pintle caps from Master Injector in UK Gerry, I believe they make them directly and the fitment was exact same as OEM IIRC but will check in future as I have a M104 set to do this weekend actually!
 
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