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OWNER DJ RaMiN (E420)

DJ RaMiN

Raw Mean
Member
Hey guys!

This is Ramin, I'm from NorCal. I've been lurking around this forum for years lol. I almost bought a 500E back in 2013, but ended up doing something else.

I've been a BMW only guy up until 2013 when I decided to start a little project. Like I said, I was planning to buy a 500E, but instead I ended up buying a rolled over E46 M3, which I used the whole drivetrain to swap into my E46 325i sedan. So I needed another car to drive around while doing the E46 project. That was the time I bought the black on black 1993 190E sportline.

That was my official entrance into the Benz world. I mean my dad had a 190E when I was a kid so I always wanted one.

The hype, let me rephrase that, the love for 80's and 90's Mercedes is definitely contagious! My wife wasn't a big fan of the 190E at first, but slowly over time she started liking it! Her favorite Mercedes from that era is the R129. So last year we got her one! Arctic White over Royal Blue SL500.

Anyway, I have been looking to get a W124 for a while. Finally found one and had to get it!
1994 E420 Polar white on Black!

Everyone around us are switching to electric cars and my wife and I are buying V8s lol.
Vite BMW (S54 swapped):
IMG_20220612_152128_566.jpgPXL_20220813_201509155.jpg

The 190E:

PXL_20220818_214257041.jpgPXL_20220815_225224464.jpg

The SL500:

PXL_20220305_184019010.jpgPXL_20220311_010029267.jpg

The E420:

PXL_20220830_023312908.PORTRAIT.jpgPXL_20220823_020502531.jpg
 
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While cleaning the engine bay of the E420 the other day, I came across something interesting!

Trying to figure out what these holes are for, on the distributor cap covers. There is a small hose connection on each intake pipe connection, behind headlights as well. So I wonder if there should be a hose that goes from the intake pipe to the distributor cap cover. For it to stay cool or something?
orca-image--1753161462.jpeg

I know that's not OE and someone got creative somewhere down the line.
orca-image-545004936.jpeg

My wifes SL500 doesn't have that. Plus I couldn't find anything related to it on the web. When I run the part numbers for distributor cap covers, they don't have any holes on them like these.
 
Is that teat on the zoom tube? Was there a hose going off of it to plug the hole in the cap cover? (it is ornamental by the way)
 
Trying to figure out what these holes are for, on the distributor cap covers. There is a small hose connection on each intake pipe connection, behind headlights as well. So I wonder if there should be a hose that goes from the intake pipe to the distributor cap cover. For it to stay cool or something?

I know that's not OE and someone got creative somewhere down the line. My wifes SL500 doesn't have that. Plus I couldn't find anything related to it on the web. When I run the part numbers for distributor cap covers, they don't have any holes on them like these.
That sure is creative... not quite sure what they were trying to do, looks like it was routing outside intake airflow to the distributor cap area. Weird. DO NOT add hoses, just ignore the holes and cover them up.

If you have misfiring issues, add venting slots in the cap, and confirm the insulator is dry & cam seals are not leaking. Lots of info on the forum on this topic...

:shocking:
 
Is that teat on the zoom tube? Was there a hose going off of it to plug the hole in the cap cover? (it is ornamental by the way)
That nipple fitting is not on the zoom tube. It's on the cover that's behind each headlight, that connects to the zoom tube. Not sure what it's called (attached a photo). And also there wasn't any hose connected to those fittings. So I wonder if they never finished the mod or maybe the dealership took them off?

Previous owner/first owner was a 75 years old lady. I doubt she did something like that lol.

Looking at service records of the car, it only has been serviced at the dealership and one other independent shop. Maybe the indy shop did it? But why?

Found a photo of those covers on the web:
Screenshot_20220909-071128.png
 
The intake scoops behind the headlights have pressurized intake air. Someone was trying to force air into the covers over the distributor caps. Don't know why they thought this would be a good idea... in wet weather, it would be a very bad idea.

:duck:
 
The intake scoops behind the headlights have pressurized intake air. Someone was trying to force air into the covers over the distributor caps. Don't know why they thought this would be a good idea... in wet weather, it would be a very bad idea.

:duck:
Intake scoops! That's the name I was struggling with lol. 🙏🏼🙏🏼

Yeah, that would be a very bad idea in wet weather!

I should connect the two fitting on the scoops maybe it’s worth a few unicorns? 😜😜

Thank you for the guidance! Car runs smoothly and has no misfire. Caps and rotors and insulators/dust shields have all been replaced back in late 2020 at the dealership.

Since these services were done at the dealership I was really interested to know what spark plugs the dealership used. I took one out and of course they used a resistor plugs (FR8DC+). Already purchased some F8DC4 plugs and will replace them at some point.
 
Since these services were done at the dealership I was really interested to know what spark plugs the dealership used. I took one out and of course they used a resistor plugs (FR8DC+). Already purchased some F8DC4 plugs and will replace them at some point.
Whoa! The dealer installed non-OE plugs? That's bizarre. I'd expect they would have installed OE (Mercedes-branded) plugs, which in 2020 would have been the Beru equivalent of F8DC4, shown below.

But yes, get the resistor plugs out of there, and gap the new non-resistor plugs to 1.0-1.1mm (not 0.8mm).

1662737531120.jpeg
 
Yeah, a few years back when I wanted to replace the plugs on the 190E, I tried to get them from the dealership and the plugs they had for my car were resistor ones. So I backed out and searched on the web and noticed few other people had that same experience. Of course non resistor plugs for M103 are harder to find than ones on the M119. Anyways, because of that experience, I decided to check the plugs on the E420.

Did the same with the SL500. That one had the right plugs!

So yes, I'll replace them soon and will gap them to 1.0-1.1mm. 🙏🏼🙏🏼
 
Things already done to the E420, things planning to do and some concerns:

Remove clear facelift turn signals/indicators and install Euro amber ones: Done.
Clear vs Amber turn signals.jpg
Euro spec turn signal on the left vs. early US spec turn signal on the right (California UV is no joke):
Turn signals Euro vs US.jpg


Lamin-x headlight lens protection film: Done.
Lamin-x - left.jpg
Lamin-x - right.jpg

Install M117 zoom tubes (foam ones needed some attention): Done
M117 zoom tubes installed.jpg
Old factory zoom tube.jpg

Replace dipstick o-ring: Done
Dipstick O-ring.jpg

Power steering fluid flush and filter change: Done
PSF and Filter.jpg

Replace oil filler cap gasket: Have the part, will do soon.

Replace air filters: Done

Replace MAF sensor mesh: Have the part, will do soon.

Replace air filter housing mounts: Done.

Install non resistor spark plugs: Have parts, will do soon!

Maintenance .jpg

Flush coolant: Will have to buy coolant. Car has period correct yellow coolant now. Not sure to flush it with same color G-05 or go with Blue G-48.

Oil and filter change: Have parts (Liqui Moly 5w40), will do soon!

Oil.jpg

Replace cabin air filters: Have parts, will do soon!

Hood insulation pad: Its still fully intact, but it does smell old and the foam doesn't reflex back when you press it.

Replace instrument cluster bulbs: One bulb is out. Debating if I should go with LED or stick with halogen. Replaced halogen ones with warm LED on the 190E few years back and kinda like it that way.

To take the cluster out, do I have to unhook the speedometer cable from footwell area before? Heard some mixed info on the web.

Car has a period correct aftermarket CD player (Sony cdx 5060) and it works perfectly, might replace it with Bluetooth continental one. If car was a 1993, would have jumped on a Becker BE1432. Not a big fan of 1994 and up Becker BE1492.
Stereo.jpg


New carpet floor mats: Car has genuine MB rubber mats, but want genuine carpet style.

Headliner: It's sagging in some areas, so needs to be rewrapped.

Antenna: Original Hirschmann has been replaced with an universal Hirschmann Hit Auta 2050. Motor is fine and everything works, just needs a new mast. Original owner provided me a new mast, but it's the one that works with the original power antenna not the Hit Auta 2050. Haven't been able to figure out what mast works with Hit Auta 2050.
Antenna.jpg

Remove facelift US taillight lenses and Install Euro amber preface lenses: Done

Hella Euro taillight lenses.jpg

Tailights installed.jpg

Wheels and tires: Car came with stock 8 holes (15s) and they are chrome. I hate chrome! So for now I put my spare 190E set on it. These are the early R129/190E EVO I wheels. 16x8 ET34. Tires are 205/50/16 fronts and 225/45/16 rears. I have a set of 8 holes 16x8 ET34. These are the original wheels of my wife's car (SL500). They need new tires.

EVO I Wheels.jpg

Suspension: Planning to go with Bilstein B8s, but as far as springs, I have no idea what to do.

H&R springs is one option, but I'm worried that they might be too soft. That was the issue on my 190E. So shorter R129 SL500 springs were firmer than H&R lowering springs for the 190E.
 
Hello and welcome!!

  • I believe you are missing the L and R rubber strips that sit longitudinally along the inner edges of the fenders —- in the engine bay.
  • Why M117 Zoom Tubes (just curious) instead of New M119 ones?
  • Thanks for reminding me that I need to change my dipstick o-ring as well!
  • No heavier weight oil (heavier than 5/40)? Assuming you are in the NorCal SF Bay area, it does get pretty toasty here sometimes?
  • How come the euro ambers look amber in the first pic, but then look ultra intense in the 2nd pic?
 

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Hello and welcome!!

  • I believe you are missing the L and R rubber strips that sit longitudinally along the inner edges of the fenders —- in the engine bay.
Hi! Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼

Oh I have those, I removed them to clean up and recondition.

PXL_20220913_035346864.jpg


  • Why M117 Zoom Tubes (just curious) instead of New M119 ones?
M117 one's are cheap, and I just bought them to use them on daily basis. Will get a set of M119 ones if still available new and use them only for shows and stuff.

  • Thanks for reminding me that I need to change my dipstick o-ring as well!
Haha, its a part not many people bother to replace.

  • No heavier weight oil (heavier than 5/40)? Assuming you are in the NorCal SF Bay area, it does get pretty toasty here sometimes?
Hmm, what grade do you recommend? The dealership in SJ used 5W40 for my wife's SL500 (M119). However the service records of the E420 shows the dealership in Belmont used 10W40 in the last oil change service.


  • How come the euro ambers look amber in the first pic, but then look ultra intense in the 2nd pic?
Not sure, probably because of the room lighting.
 
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Hmm, what grade do you recommend? The dealership in SJ used 5W40 for my wife's SL500 (M119). However the service records of the E420 shows the dealership in Belmont used 10W40 in the last oil change service.
I mean, technically we're supposed to select an oil based on the coldest temperature we experience.
  • 5W-50 is good down to FREAKING COLD and it never gets this cold here.
  • 10W-40 is good down to -4F, but it never gets this cold here.
  • 20W-40/50 is good down to 32F. I don't think it has even gotten down to 32F in the 20+ years I have lived here ... although maybe it does get this cold once in a blue moon up in the North Bay or East Bay perhaps?
  • I choose 15W-50 because this is good down to 5F, which is big margin for me in the city ..... and of course 50 weight up top is good for oven-land (Sacramento) temps too.
😎


[500Eboard] 63969C2C-2377-45BB-84F1-A2CFDCF31FDD.jpeg
 
I mean, technically we're supposed to select an oil based on the coldest temperature we experience.
  • 5W-50 is good down to FREAKING COLD and it never gets this cold here.
  • 10W-40 is good down to -4F, but it never gets this cold here.
  • 20W-40/50 is good down to 32F. I don't think it has even gotten down to 32F in the 20+ years I have lived here ... although maybe it does get this cold once in a blue moon up in the North Bay or East Bay perhaps?
  • I choose 15W-50 because this is good down to 5F, which is big margin for me in the city ..... and of course 50 weight up top is good for oven-land (Sacramento) temps too.
😎


View attachment 154007
Great info!

I actually use 15W-50 in my high mileage 190E.

You're right, it doesn't get that cold here in the bay area. So 5W-40 may not be ideal. I'll go with higher W in the future oil service.

Looking at service records of the E420, Belmont dealership used Kendall 20W-50 from new till 50k miles. Then the owner took it to the Indy shop and they used 10W-30 for a few intervals then the last service/most recent service at the Belmont dealership again, which they used 10W-40.

Will send the current oil in the E420 (10W-40) to Blackstone labs to see how it's doing.
 
@gsxr

Hello, sir!

These are the part numbers I have for sportline springs. Could you please confirm if what I have is correct?

Front sportline spring:

124-321-42-04

Rear sportline spring:

124-324-36-04 or 124-324-28-04 (I believe 36-04 is firmer?)

Thank you!
 
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#42 front is correct.

Rears are different LENGTH, which will vary depending on optional equipment installed. There's a chart in the EPC which helps you figure out which one works with your car. #28 is medium length, #36 is tall (for more junk in the trunk). Likely would use #28 unless you have a trailer hitch.

1663124229137.png
 
#42 front is correct.

Rears are different LENGTH, which will vary depending on optional equipment installed. There's a chart in the EPC which helps you figure out which one works with your car. #28 is medium length, #36 is tall (for more junk in the trunk). Likely would use #28 unless you have a trailer hitch.

View attachment 154045
Great info! #28 it is then! 🙏🏼🙏🏼
 
Nice job on the S54 E46Sedan swap. Manual, I presume? The E9X sedans have my attention for when I decide to “downsize” if I don’t go electric. Welcome to the forum, I see you’re off to a roaring start!

Cheers,

maw
 
Nice job on the S54 E46Sedan swap. Manual, I presume? The E9X sedans have my attention for when I decide to “downsize” if I don’t go electric. Welcome to the forum, I see you’re off to a roaring start!

Cheers,

maw
Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼

No, it's a SMG actually. The donor car was a SMG and and of course it required more wiring work when doing the swap, but its kinda unique in my opinion. Plus the legendary E46 M3 CSL was only available with SMG.

PXL_20220818_002454922.jpg

E90 M3 is nice! S65 has an amazing sound. Of course you have to watchout for rod bearings with all these S engines.
 
Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼

No, it's a SMG actually. The donor car was a SMG and and of course it required more wiring work when doing the swap, but its kinda unique in my opinion. Plus the legendary E46 M3 CSL was only available with SMG.

View attachment 154048

E90 M3 is nice! S65 has an amazing sound. Of course you have to watchout for rod bearings with all these S engines.
love that interior!
 
Thank you! 🙏🏼🙏🏼

No, it's a SMG actually. The donor car was a SMG and and of course it required more wiring work when doing the swap, but its kinda unique in my opinion. Plus the legendary E46 M3 CSL was only available with SMG.

View attachment 154048

E90 M3 is nice! S65 has an amazing sound. Of course you have to watchout for rod bearings with all these S engines.
Yeah mine is a TiAG over Imola SMG convertible. I'm on the hunt for a CSL tune now, because I bought a complete spare SMG system. So I may as well CSL tune that extra computer. I run TTFS now.

maw
 
I don’t understand why the red was not more popular when these cars were ordered.

However, I did buy my coupe from the “2nd owner” who sold it to me 2 weeks after he bought it for his wife.
She told him the red didn’t go well with any of her clothes.
Original owner’s wife must’ve felt differently, no?
 

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Things already done to the E420, things planning to do and some concerns:

Remove clear facelift turn signals/indicators and install Euro amber ones: Done.
View attachment 153968
Euro spec turn signal on the left vs. early US spec turn signal on the right (California UV is no joke):
View attachment 153969


Lamin-x headlight lens protection film: Done.
View attachment 153970
View attachment 153971

Install M117 zoom tubes (foam ones needed some attention): Done
View attachment 153972
View attachment 153973

Replace dipstick o-ring: Done
View attachment 153974

Power steering fluid flush and filter change: Done
View attachment 153975

Replace oil filler cap gasket: Have the part, will do soon.

Replace air filters: Done

Replace MAF sensor mesh: Have the part, will do soon.

Replace air filter housing mounts: Done.

Install non resistor spark plugs: Have parts, will do soon!

View attachment 153976

Flush coolant: Will have to buy coolant. Car has period correct yellow coolant now. Not sure to flush it with same color G-05 or go with Blue G-48.

Oil and filter change: Have parts (Liqui Moly 5w40), will do soon!

View attachment 153977

Replace cabin air filters: Have parts, will do soon!

Hood insulation pad: Its still fully intact, but it does smell old and the foam doesn't reflex back when you press it.

Replace instrument cluster bulbs: One bulb is out. Debating if I should go with LED or stick with halogen. Replaced halogen ones with warm LED on the 190E few years back and kinda like it that way.

To take the cluster out, do I have to unhook the speedometer cable from footwell area before? Heard some mixed info on the web.

Car has a period correct aftermarket CD player (Sony cdx 5060) and it works perfectly, might replace it with Bluetooth continental one. If car was a 1993, would have jumped on a Becker BE1432. Not a big fan of 1994 and up Becker BE1492.
View attachment 153978


New carpet floor mats: Car has genuine MB rubber mats, but want genuine carpet style.

Headliner: It's sagging in some areas, so needs to be rewrapped.

Antenna: Original Hirschmann has been replaced with an universal Hirschmann Hit Auta 2050. Motor is fine and everything works, just needs a new mast. Original owner provided me a new mast, but it's the one that works with the original power antenna not the Hit Auta 2050. Haven't been able to figure out what mast works with Hit Auta 2050.
View attachment 153979

Remove facelift US taillight lenses and Install Euro amber preface lenses: Done

View attachment 153981

View attachment 153980

Wheels and tires: Car came with stock 8 holes (15s) and they are chrome. I hate chrome! So for now I put my spare 190E set on it. These are the early R129/190E EVO I wheels. 16x8 ET34. Tires are 205/50/16 fronts and 225/45/16 rears. I have a set of 8 holes 16x8 ET34. These are the original wheels of my wife's car (SL500). They need new tires.

View attachment 153982

Suspension: Planning to go with Bilstein B8s, but as far as springs, I have no idea what to do.

H&R springs is one option, but I'm worried that they might be too soft. That was the issue on my 190E. So shorter R129 SL500 springs were firmer than H&R lowering springs for the 190E.
Are the tail lights DOT or Hella? I thought the whole Euro Amber shtick was just the front turn signals...
 
I don’t understand why the red was not more popular when these cars were ordered.

However, I did buy my coupe from the “2nd owner” who sold it to me 2 weeks after he bought it for his wife.
She told him the red didn’t go well with any of her clothes.
Original owner’s wife must’ve felt differently, no?
I'm jealous! 🤤

"She told him the red didn’t go well with any of her clothes." Thats a lame excuse! 🤯
 
Are the tail lights DOT or Hella? I thought the whole Euro Amber shtick was just the front turn signals...
Hella, so euro taillights don't have the the tiny side bulb. Not too noticable on w124s, because the lens is red all the way, but on w201 and r129, that part of the lens is much more noticeable, because the lens color changes from amber to red.

W124:

orca-image--991364223.jpeg
orca-image--45011793.jpeg

R129:

IMG_20211111_095852.jpg
 
Hella, so euro taillights don't have the the tiny side bulb. Not too noticable on w124s, because the lens is red all the way, but on w201 and r129, that part of the lens is much more noticeable, because the lens color changes from amber to red.

W124:

View attachment 154094
View attachment 154095

R129:

View attachment 154096
Oh wow very interesting... looks like ill have to pick up a set then lol - while we're on this topic has anyone wired the euro rear fog?
 
Nice combo! CSL tune is great! I need to get it as well!
I think TTFS is fine, actually. YKTD, the more aggressive the tune, the more aggressive the wear n tear. Immutable laws. But these days I don’t really drive the car much so I figure it can handle the wear n tear. If it was a daily and/or track car, I don’t think I’d go any more aggressive than TTFS. The CSL tuned TCU will be a “nice to have” experiment that I can swap in and out at will.

I did the same with my S55k (separate TCUs) but I’ll likely go back to the stock TCU.

maw

EDIT ... I recently found out the CSL 255 tune makes changes to the engine DME and the SMG computer, so that's a no-go for me (unless I find a spare engine DME). I think multiple retunes on an engine computer is just asking for trouble.
 
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I think TTFS is fine, actually. YKTD, the more aggressive the tune, the more aggressive the wear n tear. Immutable laws. But these days I don’t really drive the car much so I figure it can handle the wear n tear. If it was a daily and/or track car, I don’t think I’d go any more aggressive than TTFS. The CSL tuned TCU will be a “nice to have” experiment that I can swap in and out at will.

I did the same with my S55k (separate TCUs) but I’ll likely go back to the stock TCU.

maw
Nice! that's the way to go! And like you mentioned, if you don’t really drive the car much, it should be able to handle the wear n tear. 👍🤞
 
:update:

Did some more work on the E420!

Swapped the resistor plugs with non resistor ones.

Replaced the top mesh and ring on the MAF sensor and cleaned the sensor.

MAF sesnor top mesh and ring.jpg
MAF sensor.jpg

Replaced the old/cracked trunk lid stop rubber boots.

Old trunk stops.jpg
New trunk lid stop.jpg
New fender trunk stop.jpg

Replaced the old cabin air filter. I don't think they were replaced in years!

Old Cabin air filters.jpg
New cabin air filters.jpg

More to do!

Need to do a coolant flush. Still debating on what kind to use. G-48 or G-05. Car does have the yellow coolant in it now and it would be easier to just do G-05. Doing G-48 requires more work to wash the system out then refill. But if you experts recommend G-48, I'm ok with doing the extra work.

As far as draining, I gotta get a hose for draining the block for each side. I believe my car has the updated plug since it's a 94. As for refilling and burping the system, is there a special procedure? Does M119 have a fill plug on the head like M103? I didn't see anything about it in the manual, it just says to fill the reservoir.

I'm also doing the transmission service after the coolant flush. I bought the kit to do this service on the 190E and luckily I found a dogleg manual transmission for it to do a manual swap, so I won't need this kit any longer for that car. I got the fluid and the filter kit. As far as I know, I can use the same filter from the filter kit, I just need the transmission oil pan gasket, since the one from the 190E kit is incompatible. I'll get a new drain plug and crush washer as well. Am I missing anything?
 
If you have G-05 in there now, use G-05 again. Pre-mix and pour in pre-mixed only. Drain the block, refill the block through the upper radiator hose first (~5 qts) then pour the rest into the plastic reservoir or use a vacuum filler. There is no bleed plug on the head like M103.

Get a new OE gasket for the transmission. Crush washer for the converter is aluminum and smaller than the copper washer for the pan. Read the "HOW TO" on this forum for details.
 
I had no idea they sold replacement mesh screens for the MAF. Thanks!
Yes! Great little fix for the upper screens which always seem to be damaged. The smaller-diameter lower screen is also available but is rarely damaged. Buy locally if convenient to avoid concerns about shipping damage...

:banana2:
 
If you have G-05 in there now, use G-05 again. Pre-mix and pour in pre-mixed only. Drain the block, refill the block through the upper radiator hose first (~5 qts) then pour the rest into the plastic reservoir or use a vacuum filler. There is no bleed plug on the head like M103.

Get a new OE gasket for the transmission. Crush washer for the converter is aluminum and smaller than the copper washer for the pan. Read the "HOW TO" on this forum for details.
Great! Thank you, sir! Will do that! 🙏🙏
 
So you're doing a 5MT swap? Wouldn't it be easier to find R129 SL320 MT to use? Marc at Sun Valley Mercedes Transmissions may have one sitting around somewhere.

maw
Yes, doing a manual swap on my 190E Sportline. So you're talking about the 717.451 dogleg on 1990-1992 300SL-24 129.06, right? Thats a nice one to have as well! I have a 717.404 dogleg from a 190E 16v. So I'll be using that for now. I'm actually doing a M104 swap in the 190E soon and might end up going with a 6 speed MT later on. :coolgleam:
 
I had no idea they sold replacement mesh screens for the MAF. Thanks!
Yeah! No problem. When I was replacing the air filters noticed the hole on the mesh and was like I gotta replace that for sure. After seeing the ring on the mesh I kinda figured that part may be available separately. :thumbsup2:
 
Yes! Great little fix for the upper screens which always seem to be damaged. The smaller-diameter lower screen is also available but is rarely damaged. Buy locally if convenient to avoid concerns about shipping damage...
Yeah, small one was ok on mine. I got mine locally from the stealership. And you are right, these do get damaged easily, so I'm kinda glad I didn't order it online. 👍
 
Yes, doing a manual swap on my 190E Sportline. So you're talking about the 717.451 dogleg on 1990-1992 300SL-24 129.06, right? Thats a nice one to have as well! I have a 717.404 dogleg from a 190E 16v. So I'll be using that for now. I'm actually doing a M104 swap in the 190E soon and might end up going with a 6 speed MT later on. :coolgleam:
No, I thought you were doing a swap on the 420… disregard.

maw
 
My wife's SL500 wheels, I need to refinish them and get some rubber for them to use on the E420. I really want 225/50/16s, but thinking 205/55/16 is the ideal size. As far as the paint. I got the Wurth wheel paint, which I heard it has the closest match to factory MB wheel color. I still need to get some primer and clear for the project. The Wurth paint alone is about $40 a can! I don't want to go broke and get the primer and clear from Wurth as well lol. Maybe an alternative/cheaper brand that can be purchased locally? Maybe don't even use clear on them? Any recommendation is welcome!

Wheels.jpg
Wurth wheel paint.jpg
 

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