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OWNER a777fan (E420)
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Lol. Yeah. They have been on my amazon list for awhile and i keep forgetting. Thanks for the reminder! Ordering now ...
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Nice work! The liquid on the back side of your driver side insulator is the classic case of the hot-misfire problem. Cleaning everything up should keep the problem away for quite a while. If it happens again, try replacing the insulators with new Bosch (<$100/pair aftermarket). The caps & rotors can remain in service for quite a while now that you've cleaned them up, I didn't see any evidence of carbon-tracking or significant wear.
Make sure to use anaerobic sealant on the cam solenoid, btw. Also would be good to let it dry overnight before starting the engine.
Make sure to use anaerobic sealant on the cam solenoid, btw. Also would be good to let it dry overnight before starting the engine.
Nice work! The liquid on the back side of your driver side insulator is the classic case of the hot-misfire problem. Cleaning everything up should keep the problem away for quite a while. If it happens again, try replacing the insulators with new Bosch (<$100/pair aftermarket). The caps & rotors can remain in service for quite a while now that you've cleaned them up, I didn't see any evidence of carbon-tracking or significant wear.
Make sure to use anaerobic sealant on the cam solenoid, btw. Also would be good to let it dry overnight before starting the engine.
Thanks guys! I really am surprised those rotors from 1996 are still chugging along. Amazing little piece of engineering there. I can basically expand that statement to cover all the other parts I encountered. There was a nice solid feeling to everything I pulled off the engine. The little details like the plug wire channels really made me smile. So much thought put into everything, rather than just having things flopped about!
I ran across another thread last night that talked about the MB sealant, which I'll have to go back and find. Any recommendations for an aftermarket equivalent? Or is this a spot where MB is best? Oh.. and sealant on the bolts as well? or just the backside of the solenoid?
Any anaerobic should be ok, I believe. OE is 002-989-47-20-10, $33 list, $24 discount. There are some aftermarket equivalents such as Loctite 574, or the Elring version (click here). If the bolt holes go through to the back side, yes, apply sealant to the bolts as well. Photos here:
http://www.w124performance.com/images/M119/cam_solenoid/
Its been dumping like crazy the last few days here in the PNW, and I have had ample opportunity to experience what happens when you combine high horsepower levels, rear wheel drive, and skinny tires. I've mostly had difficulty accelerating away following a turn at an intersection. But this morning on the freeway on ramp I was able to break traction after 'goosing' it at 35-40 mph. 
That will get your attention, especially if you haven't yet consumed enough coffee.
That will get your attention, especially if you haven't yet consumed enough coffee.
Yup. And that is why I like ASR, no matter what the guys in the Matt Farah 500E video said about it. Without ASR, upgrading to limited-slip helps the problem of turning while accelerating from a stop, but would probably make the freeway on-ramp issue even worse.Its been dumping like crazy the last few days here in the PNW, and I have had ample opportunity to experience what happens when you combine high horsepower levels, rear wheel drive, and skinny tires. I've mostly had difficulty accelerating away following a turn at an intersection. But this morning on the freeway on ramp I was able to break traction after 'goosing' it at 35-40 mph.
The easiest fix is to use the stickiest tires possible (with wet traction as high priority since you live in Seattle).
Yup. And that is why I like ASR, no matter what the guys in the Matt Farah 500E video said about it. Without ASR, upgrading to limited-slip helps the problem of turning while accelerating from a stop, but would probably make the freeway on-ramp issue even worse.
The easiest fix is to use the stickiest tires possible (with wet traction as high priority since you live in Seattle).
hehe... agree. I'm already on the hunt for a wider OEM rim that will fit without rubbing to increase the width of the tire. The tires on there are only a couple of years old, but aren't the greatest in the wear department. Even more of a reason to get to my suspension refresh sooner rather than later.
Although (on the wider tire subject)... and maybe I am thinking to much about this, but since the overall weight of the car doesn't change... doesn't that mean the contact patch between the tire and the ground will remain the same? The shape of the patch will be different since the tire is wider, but the overall area of the patch should remain the same, no?
More boxes arriving!
Thermostat, oil filter, and plenty of panel clips for the junkyard trim piece I picked up.
oh.. plus the gleit...and the anaerobic sealant for the cam solenoids!
I am going to have to double check EPC... but I feel like I have the wrong thermostat. My car is an April '94 build, which makes me think I need the early PN. I was using EPC when I placed the order though... perhaps one too many after work whiskeys that night
Thermostat, oil filter, and plenty of panel clips for the junkyard trim piece I picked up.
oh.. plus the gleit...and the anaerobic sealant for the cam solenoids!
I am going to have to double check EPC... but I feel like I have the wrong thermostat. My car is an April '94 build, which makes me think I need the early PN. I was using EPC when I placed the order though... perhaps one too many after work whiskeys that night
Is that snow in the background of left window or just reflection? Today's is one of the days where I appreciate the heated leather seats
Fuuunnnny...
Does anyone know how to interpret this EPC return? I can't tell which PN I need for the selected control arm.
The notes don't give any hints if the 210 number superceeds the 124 number. Its interesting though, when I type the numbers into mboemparts, it comes back and tells me the 124 number 'fits my 1994 e420' while the 210 number does not.
The notes don't give any hints if the 210 number superceeds the 124 number. Its interesting though, when I type the numbers into mboemparts, it comes back and tells me the 124 number 'fits my 1994 e420' while the 210 number does not.
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I think the 124-number may be the bolt kit to replace existing bolts, with old / factory links.
The 210-number is the kit needed when replacing the links with the new-style links, which have different bolt hole diameters.
So, it depends if you are replacing any links or not...?
The 210-number is the kit needed when replacing the links with the new-style links, which have different bolt hole diameters.
So, it depends if you are replacing any links or not...?
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Awesome. Thanks! That would make sense, since the CA part numbers all start with 210!!
I think the 124-number may be the bolt kit to replace existing bolts, with old / factory links.
The 210-number is the kit needed when replacing the links with the new-style links, which have different bolt hole diameters.
So, it depends if you are replacing any links or not...?
Stopped by the dealer today with my title to order a new complete set of keys. The Master and Valet are both still available, but the wallet key is NLA!
Just get an extra master key and remove the plastic, boom there’s your wallet key!
oof! is that what they look like underneath?!
I'll have an extra master after the new ones show up, so I'll give it a shot!! Thx.
The aerodynamics on this car show a lot of thought and effort. It's literally the only car I have ever driven whose driver and passenger windows as well as the rear view mirrors stay free of water at speed, even in the most blinding rain!
My wet commutes are so much safer thanks to this.
My wet commutes are so much safer thanks to this.
Very likely, yes. It's the combo relay in the compartment behind the fuse box. Pretty common problem. If you have a local Pick-n-pull you could snag a couple of used ones, or get them from eBay, or from captruff / David Hendy. I vaguely recall new ones were a little spendy. I've had to replace this relay on a few different cars.
Thanks much Dave. I assume the relay is the same for all 124s?
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Yes, I believe it's the same for all 124's. P/N 201-821-02-47, new is $62 delivered from Naperville:
https://www.mboemparts.com/oem-parts/mercedes-benz-turn-signal-and-hazard-flasher-2018210247/
Speaking of which... Jeff has one on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302585426003
(The #00 was replaced/superceded by the #02.)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/302585426003
(The #00 was replaced/superceded by the #02.)
A quick update here. Forum friend ‘luckymike’ and I came to an agreement for his 17” monoblocks, and I couldn’t be happier. They need a little bit of love, but will look great on the E420 once I’m able to pick them up from CA!
Many thanks to Mike for a great experience and personal delivery. I hope we’re able to connect when I pick the wheels up, or if he ends up visiting the Puget Sound area.
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Many thanks to Mike for a great experience and personal delivery. I hope we’re able to connect when I pick the wheels up, or if he ends up visiting the Puget Sound area.
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This has happened a few times on rare occasion, so I thought I would mention it.
I'll pull up to a light after the car is warm (read: lukewarm since I still haven't had a chance to replace the t-stat). Once I have come to a stop the idle speed begins to oscillate, rising and dipping, and acting like its going to stall. Sometimes it has concerned me to the point of throwing it into N, and giving it a little gas. It perks right up and acts normal. Light turns green, I pop it back into drive and take off. Everything is normal. Pull up to the next light, and its fine! Won't happen again for another few driving cycles.
:?
I'll pull up to a light after the car is warm (read: lukewarm since I still haven't had a chance to replace the t-stat). Once I have come to a stop the idle speed begins to oscillate, rising and dipping, and acting like its going to stall. Sometimes it has concerned me to the point of throwing it into N, and giving it a little gas. It perks right up and acts normal. Light turns green, I pop it back into drive and take off. Everything is normal. Pull up to the next light, and its fine! Won't happen again for another few driving cycles.
:?
Codes? Particularly from the E-GAS module?
Oooh. Good questions.
The car does not currently habitatate in a garage. (don't shoot).
This not my daily, more like an every other daily. I've only owned the car since the beginning of September, so I'm not too certain if its related to the current weather. I have not scanned for codes. I currently don't have a blinky blinky box. Building one is on the list!!! I did at one point (over a Month ago now) have a Check Engine light on after starting. I shut down and re-started, and the light went away. Is that how the light operates? Turns off, but still might have codes stored? I took the fact that it went off as a sign of a fluke.
Oh.. its a non-ASR car, which means its a TTL/R, right?
It's easier to just buy a blinky box... but I'd recommend shelling out for a 38-pin breakout box, used with a blinky box that has 4mm pins, to make your life easier. Fiddling with 1mm pins down a dark hole with unmarked sockets isn't fun. (Ideally, shelling out for Chinese SDS is the best option but at $500 that's a bit steep if you have no other MB's to use it on.)
Non-ASR does mean T/LLR, correct! Same function thought, for idle speed control. My wild guess at the moment is a vacuum leak somewhere, btw.
CEL generally stays on, but you can check the DM codes (the DM controls the CEL) using the built-in LED & button in front of the CAN box. This only will allow reading/clearing DM codes, nothing else. Check out the stickes in the De-Coding subforum.
Non-ASR does mean T/LLR, correct! Same function thought, for idle speed control. My wild guess at the moment is a vacuum leak somewhere, btw.
CEL generally stays on, but you can check the DM codes (the DM controls the CEL) using the built-in LED & button in front of the CAN box. This only will allow reading/clearing DM codes, nothing else. Check out the stickes in the De-Coding subforum.
Post 50 is missing the pictures... I went back to see what you had completed in your 5k deferred MX. So as GSXR (he is real, I know his kids are secretly on instagram) said perhaps a vacuum line is loose or off, and since your issue is hot related, I wonder if you are wet again due to condensation not fully burning off.
Uhhh....GSXR & Mrs. GSXR's 'kids' reside in their shop, and out in their driveway *ahemW140*
Gerry, what is up with the missing images in that post? They were imported to the 500Eboard server, but are now MIA! They appear to be 1x1 pixel (corrupt) image files?
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/35.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/36.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/37.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/38.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/39.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/40.jpg
Dunno. Need to edit the post and re-upload them. Interesting. First time I've seen that.Gerry, what is up with the missing images in that post? They were imported to the 500Eboard server, but are now MIA! They appear to be 1x1 pixel (corrupt) image files?
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/35.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/36.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/37.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/38.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/39.jpg
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/images/imported/2017/10/40.jpg
As you noted in Post 50, I did clean out the insulators of gook a month or two ago. The idle fluctuation this time is completely different, and definitely not the misfiring that was apparent with the wet insulators.
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Tuesdays and Thursdays are my 'fun' commute days where I don't have puppy drop off duty, and can drive the E420 to work. Amazingly, today was the first dry day in as long as I can remember. As such, I was able to get into the kickdown switch on the on ramp. When this thing finds first... watch out. Still exciting and surprising after owning for several months!
Dealer is preferred. Is Steve Geyer available? I'd at least ask if he does that sort of thing these days.
Indy shop is OK if they align a LOT of Mercedes... and either have the spreader bar to set pressed toe, or know how to properly compensate for it. Almost anywhere else, they'll get the toe screwed up.
Dealer is preferred. Is Steve Geyer available? I'd at least ask if he does that sort of thing these days.
Indy shop is OK if they align a LOT of Mercedes... and either have the spreader bar to set pressed toe, or know how to properly compensate for it. Almost anywhere else, they'll get the toe screwed up.
ah! righto... I'll have to reach out to him. Thanks for the reminder!
I need a bit of help. Trying to install a vent tube for the battery in the trunk. I’m not entirely clear how its supposed to be routed. There is the rubber drain plug under the battery, but the one hole in the battery tray that I thought would accept the tube is completely covered when the battery is installed.
You can see what I think is the drain hole (rubber plug removed) and the hole in the tray frame that looks like its meant for the vent tube.
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You can see what I think is the drain hole (rubber plug removed) and the hole in the tray frame that looks like its meant for the vent tube.
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Hmmmm... That looks a little different from the 500E battery area.
The following is a picture of the 500E battery area without the tray installed. What I did was use the REAR hole for the vent tube. The vent tube in my car goes from the rear of the battery, then goes under the battery tray and into the hole shown below the sheet metal. The tube does not go THROUGH the battery tray .... it goes AROUND the battery tray and then under. (at least that's how I did it in my 124.036)
The following is a picture of the 500E battery area without the tray installed. What I did was use the REAR hole for the vent tube. The vent tube in my car goes from the rear of the battery, then goes under the battery tray and into the hole shown below the sheet metal. The tube does not go THROUGH the battery tray .... it goes AROUND the battery tray and then under. (at least that's how I did it in my 124.036)
