Blerg. Thanks Dave! I figured as much.
Wish i had scavenged one when I was at the pick n pull a week ago. One of the 124s had a gray interior!
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Blerg. Thanks Dave! I figured as much.
Wish i had scavenged one when I was at the pick n pull a week ago. One of the 124s had a gray interior!
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I recently faced this issue with my G-wagen, same clips. I found a few at yards so was OK.
TRUCKTEC sells them via amazon or eBay. Dunno the quality but I would not put one on my car. But an option.
Cheers,
Gerry
Installed this on friday before a mini weekend road trip. For lack of a better description... its so nice n tiiight!
https://youtu.be/vj30zcEEwbY
Plus the mirror lights work reliably again.
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https://youtu.be/vj30zcEEwbY
Plus the mirror lights work reliably again.
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New MB OE. Tom was able to send one... and one clip only.
https://media0.giphy.com/media/plzfvOtwX7t3q/giphy.gif
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Oh! Sorry - I had seen that photo of your invoice. Good work. That's a CRAZY price for said clip.
They are pretty easy to get at wrecking yards, and often still in good condition. I've started grabbing them when I see good ones, particularly for my G-wagen.
I have ordered new ones from MB in the past (as spec'd in the EPC for my G-wagen), and the ones I got from MB were physically larger and different from the ones on the G-wagen, which were the same as the ones used for the 124, 202, early 210 and such. So I've started snagging spares in tan and gray. Need to get some black ones for the E500.
Cheers,
Gerry
They are pretty easy to get at wrecking yards, and often still in good condition. I've started grabbing them when I see good ones, particularly for my G-wagen.
I have ordered new ones from MB in the past (as spec'd in the EPC for my G-wagen), and the ones I got from MB were physically larger and different from the ones on the G-wagen, which were the same as the ones used for the 124, 202, early 210 and such. So I've started snagging spares in tan and gray. Need to get some black ones for the E500.
Cheers,
Gerry
Yes. $34 for some plastic, with integrated ‘wiring’. I’ll definitely be grabbing them in future pick n pull visits
The one that failed literally disintegrated. The plastic had turned into an almost wax like substance. Just crumbled when you touched it!
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So a few additional oddity observations that have cropped up over the last few weeks:
1. I think my blower regulator is on its way out. The blower has randomly decided to stop responding to PBU commands. As indicated this is intermittent. Luckily it always seems to work first thing in the morning (TG for defrost), but after I drive the short distance to my coffee shop on the way to work, it will not respond after I have re-started the car. Then, a bit later, it will suddenly work. Reading the very helpful threads here leads me to believe that its a) regulator, b) blower fan, c) in line blower fuse, d) PBU. I hear the vacuum pods and A/C condenser respond to PBU commands, so I'm thinking its not that. The intermittency also rules out the fuse in my book. Let me know if you disagree. The blower motor itself seems like it could withstand a low yield nuclear attack, so I'm thinking its not that.
That leaves the regulator. I'll have to investigate this weekend. Luckily being a facelift car, this exchange seems to be massively easier.
2. Thanks to the intermittent blower in line item 1, I have been given ample opportunity to drive the car with the blower off. Today while driving at low speed in the parking lot, I noticed a very soft clicking noise emanating from the dash area while the car is moving. The clicking has a cadence to it, and is quickly drowned out as you pick up speed. This gives you an idea of how quiet it is. The cadence does not seem to be speed dependent.
3. There is something in my trunk lid. It sounds like a small piece of plastic that occasionally is dislodged and taps around when I open the lid. This only occurs occasionally though. I have had the trunk liner off twice now, and can't find anything! Its driving me nuts!
1. I think my blower regulator is on its way out. The blower has randomly decided to stop responding to PBU commands. As indicated this is intermittent. Luckily it always seems to work first thing in the morning (TG for defrost), but after I drive the short distance to my coffee shop on the way to work, it will not respond after I have re-started the car. Then, a bit later, it will suddenly work. Reading the very helpful threads here leads me to believe that its a) regulator, b) blower fan, c) in line blower fuse, d) PBU. I hear the vacuum pods and A/C condenser respond to PBU commands, so I'm thinking its not that. The intermittency also rules out the fuse in my book. Let me know if you disagree. The blower motor itself seems like it could withstand a low yield nuclear attack, so I'm thinking its not that.
That leaves the regulator. I'll have to investigate this weekend. Luckily being a facelift car, this exchange seems to be massively easier.
2. Thanks to the intermittent blower in line item 1, I have been given ample opportunity to drive the car with the blower off. Today while driving at low speed in the parking lot, I noticed a very soft clicking noise emanating from the dash area while the car is moving. The clicking has a cadence to it, and is quickly drowned out as you pick up speed. This gives you an idea of how quiet it is. The cadence does not seem to be speed dependent.
3. There is something in my trunk lid. It sounds like a small piece of plastic that occasionally is dislodged and taps around when I open the lid. This only occurs occasionally though. I have had the trunk liner off twice now, and can't find anything! Its driving me nuts!
IME... an intermittent blower is usually the blower motor itself failing, likely due to worn brushes. Remember that facelift cars use a different blower assembly, so if you buy one, make sure to get the correct part number.
A failed regulator usually results in either a fixed speed that you cannot change, or a dead blower (zero speed). Jono likes to replace both at the same time, but...
The clicking noise may be the heater valve pulsing, if you have the heat on; or it may be the manifold that controls the vacuum pods. Both are normal noises.
A failed regulator usually results in either a fixed speed that you cannot change, or a dead blower (zero speed). Jono likes to replace both at the same time, but...
The clicking noise may be the heater valve pulsing, if you have the heat on; or it may be the manifold that controls the vacuum pods. Both are normal noises.
IME... an intermittent blower is usually the blower motor itself failing, likely due to worn brushes. Remember that facelift cars use a different blower assembly, so if you buy one, make sure to get the correct part number.
A failed regulator usually results in either a fixed speed that you cannot change, or a dead blower (zero speed). Jono likes to replace both at the same time, but...
The clicking noise may be the heater valve pulsing, if you have the heat on; or it may be the manifold that controls the vacuum pods. Both are normal noises.
nooooooo!
It's not all that common for pushbutton units (PBUs) to go out, so I wouldn't go there.
No matter what you do, as a matter of course, just change the 30A strip fuse that controls the blower motor. You should be able to get one at a McFLAPS store ... whatever you do, DO NOT go to your "stealer" as they will charge you like $10 for a $0.50 part. Either that or order it online. In fact, order three or four "just in case."
If you replace the blower motor (and that is the problem), go ahead and spend the money and replace the regulator too. Again, a different part for pre and post-facelift cars, so get the right regulator. If you have an early car, I believe you can get an OEM Behr regulator at a significant discount from the "stealership" prices. If you have a facelift car (as I believe you do), it's KAEhler or Stealer, pick your poison. I don't recommend KAE products, but it's a lot cheaper than the stealer part, albeit IMHO of less quality.
My experience with bad regulator is as gsxr says ... totally inop blower fan.
Also, don't bother buying the replacement motor and changing over the "squirrel cage" fan to the motor. It's a hassle and often times brittle plastic breaks, or it's unbalanced, or there is some other complication. Just get the entire motor/fan assembly.
It's going to be close to $400 in parts, but that's how this job is. Fortunately it's a DIY job labor-wise.
The labor is incremental to replace the regulator when you have the blower motor out, so it's wise to just do the job once and be done with it for 10-15 years. Good opportunity to clean out the top of the heat exchanger too.
I did this job in the days before I started doing HOW-TO articles, unfortunately, so we don't (yet) have a good HOW-TO on it. It would be welcome.
Behr blower motor link (various vendors, MB #124 820 06 08, list $474): Here ($230) Here ($228) Here ($259) Here ($278) Here ($245)
KAE blower regulator link (various vendors, MB #124 821 21 51, list $410): Here ($142) Here ($166) Here ($148) Here ($177) Here ($155)
Cheers.
Gerry
No matter what you do, as a matter of course, just change the 30A strip fuse that controls the blower motor. You should be able to get one at a McFLAPS store ... whatever you do, DO NOT go to your "stealer" as they will charge you like $10 for a $0.50 part. Either that or order it online. In fact, order three or four "just in case."
If you replace the blower motor (and that is the problem), go ahead and spend the money and replace the regulator too. Again, a different part for pre and post-facelift cars, so get the right regulator. If you have an early car, I believe you can get an OEM Behr regulator at a significant discount from the "stealership" prices. If you have a facelift car (as I believe you do), it's KAEhler or Stealer, pick your poison. I don't recommend KAE products, but it's a lot cheaper than the stealer part, albeit IMHO of less quality.
My experience with bad regulator is as gsxr says ... totally inop blower fan.
Also, don't bother buying the replacement motor and changing over the "squirrel cage" fan to the motor. It's a hassle and often times brittle plastic breaks, or it's unbalanced, or there is some other complication. Just get the entire motor/fan assembly.
It's going to be close to $400 in parts, but that's how this job is. Fortunately it's a DIY job labor-wise.
The labor is incremental to replace the regulator when you have the blower motor out, so it's wise to just do the job once and be done with it for 10-15 years. Good opportunity to clean out the top of the heat exchanger too.
I did this job in the days before I started doing HOW-TO articles, unfortunately, so we don't (yet) have a good HOW-TO on it. It would be welcome.
Behr blower motor link (various vendors, MB #124 820 06 08, list $474): Here ($230) Here ($228) Here ($259) Here ($278) Here ($245)
KAE blower regulator link (various vendors, MB #124 821 21 51, list $410): Here ($142) Here ($166) Here ($148) Here ($177) Here ($155)
Cheers.
Gerry
a777fan,
I found it no big deal to change the blower motor. Yes, there are a number of plastic parts to remove but I thought it was pretty straightforward.
If you wind up needing to change the regulator, I found it basically impossible to remove the heat sink. I even practiced at a dismantler. You will likely break the plastic surrounding the unit.
My ultimate solution was to follow a tip I got here and simply leave the aluminum heat sink in place. You unscrew the little electrical unit that is bolted to it. Get some thermal paste and attach your new electrical unit (I guess this is actually the regulator) to the old heatsink. Piece of cake.
The noise in your trunk lid? I know this one! One of your liner clips has broken off at some point in the past and the piece is rolling around inside the lid. I have the exact same noise. The piece never seems to move to where I can reach it.
I found it no big deal to change the blower motor. Yes, there are a number of plastic parts to remove but I thought it was pretty straightforward.
If you wind up needing to change the regulator, I found it basically impossible to remove the heat sink. I even practiced at a dismantler. You will likely break the plastic surrounding the unit.
My ultimate solution was to follow a tip I got here and simply leave the aluminum heat sink in place. You unscrew the little electrical unit that is bolted to it. Get some thermal paste and attach your new electrical unit (I guess this is actually the regulator) to the old heatsink. Piece of cake.
The noise in your trunk lid? I know this one! One of your liner clips has broken off at some point in the past and the piece is rolling around inside the lid. I have the exact same noise. The piece never seems to move to where I can reach it.
a777fan: +1 Dave & Jerry's comments. Just a few weeks ago I had to replace the regulator in my 94 E320. Symptoms were intermittent blower operation for a week or so followed by no blower function at all. The factory regulator is quite expensive --$506 list. I went with the K.A.E. part at $199 from my local foreign car parts store. Note that the heat sink could not be detached from the wiring harness unlike the factory part that I removed. This made installation of the K.A.E. part a wrestling job to get it under the plastic piece.
Since your is a facelift model its a good time to replace the dust filters. Remember only the lower clip opens--don't try to open the upper one, just slide the upper filter down and out.
Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
Peter Weissman
Since your is a facelift model its a good time to replace the dust filters. Remember only the lower clip opens--don't try to open the upper one, just slide the upper filter down and out.
Hope this is helpful.
Regards,
Peter Weissman
There's an inexpensive tool specifically for this project:
[video=youtube_share;_SPflUyT1rQ]https://youtu.be/_SPflUyT1rQ?t=25s[/video]
Thanks to every one for all the insightful replies!
I'll have to dig into the HOW-TO's a bit more to determine what testing I need to do to confirm it is indeed the blower. I should just be able to pull the motor and apply a 12V power source directly, correct?
It would be a little surprising to me if it was the motor, as the car only has 130k on it. I guess time attacks the brushes as well though..? Good to know that reg failures are usually permanent, however.
A real bummer about those prices though. I hate going aftermarket too.
And of course if it IS the motor, and i DON'T replace the reg, i'll constantly be assuming I have a ticking time bomb buried in my dash.
I'll have to dig into the HOW-TO's a bit more to determine what testing I need to do to confirm it is indeed the blower. I should just be able to pull the motor and apply a 12V power source directly, correct?
It would be a little surprising to me if it was the motor, as the car only has 130k on it. I guess time attacks the brushes as well though..? Good to know that reg failures are usually permanent, however.
A real bummer about those prices though. I hate going aftermarket too.
And of course if it IS the motor, and i DON'T replace the reg, i'll constantly be assuming I have a ticking time bomb buried in my dash.
Yes! I keep thinking this, but when I remove the liner, I see nothing!!! Your case at least proves that I am not crazy.
Yes! I keep thinking this, but when I remove the liner, I see nothing!!! Your case at least proves that I am not crazy.
It's in the reinforcing ribs. Boroscope?
It must be. I might just take the liner off and drive around with it till it falls out.
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This seems a bit superfluous now that either the blower motor or regulator are going out. But these arrived today care of GVZ!
They’ll need a little bit of love, but should be a fun little project. I’ve always wanted a set. Think they make the sills look a little more special.
Oh... and lemme tell ya. If you ever need anything shipped, the honch is your man. Seriously. The man could open a packaging business. Took me 15 minutes to get into the package and through to the sills!!! Thanks gerry!!!
:gvz:
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They’ll need a little bit of love, but should be a fun little project. I’ve always wanted a set. Think they make the sills look a little more special.
Oh... and lemme tell ya. If you ever need anything shipped, the honch is your man. Seriously. The man could open a packaging business. Took me 15 minutes to get into the package and through to the sills!!! Thanks gerry!!!
:gvz:
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Pretty wet in the PNW today, so I foolishly decided to address a few things on the car. I had just got my order of new copper fuses in the mail, so I wanted to swap those in. Took about 10 minutes, and I didn't even have Uncle Kent's handy dandy pliers!
Old Fuses all nestled in their home for the last 24 years...
Presto!
Shiny new fuses in place!
What is the fuse in Position 'D' for? Its not shown on the fuse card.
My E-torx sockets also arrived this week, so I could finally change out the serp belt. Steve (SG-Motorsports) noticed it was starting to crack when he did the alignment a month or two ago. And sure enough, it was!
Not horrible... but starting to go.
New belt in place:
I've noticed that my Air Pump is a bit rackety when its activated after a cold start. Not sure if this is normal, or if its starting to go:
Vid idiling with it off:
I then attempted to attack the Blower Motor... but that's a whooole different story.
[video=youtube;BiTfKAWiyUc]
[video=youtube;w4LktemjmDo]
Old Fuses all nestled in their home for the last 24 years...
Presto!
Shiny new fuses in place!
What is the fuse in Position 'D' for? Its not shown on the fuse card.
My E-torx sockets also arrived this week, so I could finally change out the serp belt. Steve (SG-Motorsports) noticed it was starting to crack when he did the alignment a month or two ago. And sure enough, it was!
Not horrible... but starting to go.
New belt in place:
I've noticed that my Air Pump is a bit rackety when its activated after a cold start. Not sure if this is normal, or if its starting to go:
Vid idiling with it off:
I then attempted to attack the Blower Motor... but that's a whooole different story.
[video=youtube;BiTfKAWiyUc]
[video=youtube;w4LktemjmDo]
Last edited by a moderator:
That belt had some life left in it, but yeah, pretty cheap and easy to replace.
I found that serpentine and V-belts (560SEC) didn't last nearly as long in the heat of Texas as they did when I lived in the PNW. That goes for a lot of rubber parts. The heat and humidity of Houston took its toll.
I found that serpentine and V-belts (560SEC) didn't last nearly as long in the heat of Texas as they did when I lived in the PNW. That goes for a lot of rubber parts. The heat and humidity of Houston took its toll.
https://youtu.be/Z4Pk5gf08po
Its alllliiveeee!!!
If you’ve seen the how-to i put together, you know it was the damn inline leaf fuse. Honch, Louis, gixxer, you were all correct!!
The bright side is that I know how to take all that stuff apart now.
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[video=youtube;Z4Pk5gf08po]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Pk5gf08po[/video]
Its alllliiveeee!!!
If you’ve seen the how-to i put together, you know it was the damn inline leaf fuse. Honch, Louis, gixxer, you were all correct!!
The bright side is that I know how to take all that stuff apart now.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
[video=youtube;Z4Pk5gf08po]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4Pk5gf08po[/video]
I can't tell you how many times people have sworn up and down to me that their 30A strip fuse is "just fine, I checked it with a microscope!" yadda x3.
Then when I tell them to "press on the middle of it with your finger" it falls apart and breaks in two.
It's really something that should be replaced, out of hand, every 5 years as a normal maintenance item. And every owner should have five of them on hand, in their parts hoard.
Unlike a lot of E500E parts, it's not expensive to maintain a spare set or two of ceramic copper/brass bullet fuses, and 4-5 30A strip fuses......
Then when I tell them to "press on the middle of it with your finger" it falls apart and breaks in two.
It's really something that should be replaced, out of hand, every 5 years as a normal maintenance item. And every owner should have five of them on hand, in their parts hoard.
Unlike a lot of E500E parts, it's not expensive to maintain a spare set or two of ceramic copper/brass bullet fuses, and 4-5 30A strip fuses......
Indeed! It is one of those things that I wouldn't have believed until it 'happened to me'. Especially after volt metering it at both ends to check continuity and voltage!
It crumbled like that sun visor clip.
I'll tell ya what though, I had a heck of a time finding one of them locally. None of the auto parts stores carried them. Had to resort to the dealer, and order some backups off Amazon! I wish I could have been more patient, but the defroster is a go/no-go item here in the PNW this time of year.
It crumbled like that sun visor clip.
I'll tell ya what though, I had a heck of a time finding one of them locally. None of the auto parts stores carried them. Had to resort to the dealer, and order some backups off Amazon! I wish I could have been more patient, but the defroster is a go/no-go item here in the PNW this time of year.
Same problem a few years back. Visual inspection showed no signs of damage or crack. Once I removed the strip it broke in two and the hairline crack was not visible prior to removal. If in doubt remove the fuse you'll be surprised how many are damaged.
Bwahaha!! $5 !!!
Fuses are among the very first things that savvy E500E hoarders have in their parts collections.
30A strip fuse = MB# 000-545-20-34, $3.00 dealer MSRP in USA. It's also Bosch # 1-191-017-004.
FCP and AHAZ are $0.79 and $0.63, respectively... RMEuropean is $0.31, Importec is $0.31 each.
https://importecautoparts.com/parts/part_number/000 545 20 34/3
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/PartNumberSearch.aspx?pnsearch=0005452034
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0005452034
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-fuse-strip-0005452034
1992-1993 models also use the same 30A strip fuse for the twin electric auxiliary fans in front of the radiator/condenser, btw. 1994-1995 models have ATC blade fuses in separate relays in the compartment behind the fuse box, instead of a 30A strip for the twin fans. All years (ok, 1988-up) still use the 30A strip fuse for the HVAC blower. 1986 and early 1987 had a 25A ceramic bullet fuse, with a factory upgrade to replace it with the external 30A strip... I had to do this upgrade on my early-build 1987 300D (kit shown here).
FCP and AHAZ are $0.79 and $0.63, respectively... RMEuropean is $0.31, Importec is $0.31 each.
https://importecautoparts.com/parts/part_number/000 545 20 34/3
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/PartNumberSearch.aspx?pnsearch=0005452034
https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/0005452034
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mercedes-fuse-strip-0005452034
1992-1993 models also use the same 30A strip fuse for the twin electric auxiliary fans in front of the radiator/condenser, btw. 1994-1995 models have ATC blade fuses in separate relays in the compartment behind the fuse box, instead of a 30A strip for the twin fans. All years (ok, 1988-up) still use the 30A strip fuse for the HVAC blower. 1986 and early 1987 had a 25A ceramic bullet fuse, with a factory upgrade to replace it with the external 30A strip... I had to do this upgrade on my early-build 1987 300D (kit shown here).
It's unbelieveable the stealer matrix-priced markup on small parts like these strip fuses.
The stealer in downtown Houston charged USD $11-12.00 for a single MB-branded Bosch F8DC4 spark plug ... they were available via Naperville and other sources for around $1.50 at the time (now around $2.50 apiece).
The stealer in downtown Houston charged USD $11-12.00 for a single MB-branded Bosch F8DC4 spark plug ... they were available via Naperville and other sources for around $1.50 at the time (now around $2.50 apiece).
"Perfect for the garage, or just around the house!"
If you had checked for voltage at each wire just immediately past the screws WITH THE BLOWER SWITCH ON HIGH OR DEFROST SELECTED, you would have seen a huge voltage drop across the fuse. Without the blower attempting to get current through the fuse, you would have seen good voltage at both ends of the fuse. That's how micro-cracked fuses get "tested" and missed all the time...
Ah, thank you. An electrician I am not. :/
I’ll have to attempt this next time.
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