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500Eboard Management
OWNER DJ RaMiN (E420)
- Thread starter DJ RaMiN
- Start date
You're right, sir! I'll get the breakout box!
Oh, one thing I would like to add is that the idle issue is only present when car is cold. Once the car reaches the operating temperature the idle issue goes away!
BTW, Jon's @emerydc8 issue (link below) is very similar to my issue!
www.500eboard.co
I gotta check the VR!
On the side note, what exactly is T/LLR module responsible for?
BTW, Jon's @emerydc8 issue (link below) is very similar to my issue!
ABS Light with High/Hunting Idle (non-ASR car) (SOLVED) | 400E / E420 Discussions
I started getting an intermittent ABS light today, accompanied by a high and hunting idle if the car is in neutral. I could engage the cruise control while the ABS light is not illuminated, but as soon as the light comes on, the cruise control cuts out. I flushed the brake system about a year...
I gotta check the VR!
On the side note, what exactly is T/LLR module responsible for?
Yes, sir! Indeed!
Also I think its a good time to replace the lower harness as well. What are my options? Does Jono @jhodg5ck still do the rebuilds?
Jono still does rebuilds AFAIK, or you can order the repair harness from Kurth Classics in Germany.
Nice!
Not sure how much Jono charges, but Kurth Classics price (about $235) isn't bad! But probably have to wait a month to get it, huh?
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I found a post here that the OP mentioned he got it in 10 days!
So looking at photos in the posts, Jono's rebuild comes with the large positive cable & metal brackets, but for Kurth's you have to reuse the large positive cable & metal brackets. Shouldn't be that bad!
What's the deal with voltage regulators these days! Seems like everything is made in China/Taiwan nowadays!
Bosch (Taiwan), Beru (China), Huco/Hitachi (China)?
Bosch used to be good when it was made in India? I'm seeing the made in Taiwan ones are failing too soon!
Both the SL500 and and E420 have about 90k miles. Maybe I should get more VRs just in case the one on the SL500 goes bad soon!
Bosch (Taiwan), Beru (China), Huco/Hitachi (China)?
Bosch used to be good when it was made in India? I'm seeing the made in Taiwan ones are failing too soon!
Both the SL500 and and E420 have about 90k miles. Maybe I should get more VRs just in case the one on the SL500 goes bad soon!
Yeah... Bosch UK moved to Bosch India and now Taiwan/China. Even the OE/Genuine is made in Taiwan/China.
I hadn't heard of them failing too soon, if accurate, that's depressing. They are so cheap (<$15?) that it's probably worth keeping a spare on the shelf so you don't have to wait days to order a replacement.
I hadn't heard of them failing too soon, if accurate, that's depressing. They are so cheap (<$15?) that it's probably worth keeping a spare on the shelf so you don't have to wait days to order a replacement.
Yeah! At that price, I gotta get a few!Yeah... Bosch UK moved to Bosch India and now Taiwan/China. Even the OE/Genuine is made in Taiwan/China.
I hadn't heard of them failing too soon, if accurate, that's depressing. They are so cheap (<$15?) that it's probably worth keeping a spare on the shelf so you don't have to wait days to order a replacement.
But, I'm kinda concerned about the part numbers!
0021548506 is the old part number and 0021549206 is the new one, right?
Not sure why some websites show 0021548506 is the correct one for my 94 E420 and some show 0021549206!
0021549206 is $10.81
And 0021548506 is $43.16!
Assuming a stock alternator, the EPC shows 002-154-85-06 superceding to 002-154-92-06. The #92 is NLA from MB but #85 is still available.
002-154-85-06 = Bosch 1-987-237-077
002-154-92-06 = Bosch 1-197-311-242, which supercedes to 1-987-237-075.
The 143A-150A alternators all specify #92 instead of #85. I don't know what the difference is.
002-154-85-06 = Bosch 1-987-237-077
002-154-92-06 = Bosch 1-197-311-242, which supercedes to 1-987-237-075.
The 143A-150A alternators all specify #92 instead of #85. I don't know what the difference is.
When I order from RM European, parts usually come from South SF. That's like 40 mins from me. So most of the time I get them the next day!
Hey guys 
,
Some updates:
Kurth Classics lower wiring harness arrived yesterday!
And breakout box, per @gsxr 's recommendation:
Now I gotta find some time to do the DIY.
,Some updates:
Kurth Classics lower wiring harness arrived yesterday!
And breakout box, per @gsxr 's recommendation:
Now I gotta find some time to do the DIY.
Planning to do the lower wiring harness job this weekend following the "How to" thread. Any tips/recommendations?
Just that it's not a fun job... plan on quite a few hours, and take your time. Wouldn't hurt to snap a few photos of the routing in different places before you take it apart. The .034 routing is VERY different than the .036 routing, btw. Don't forget to disconnect the battery or you'll get a really nice light show.
Thank you, sir! I did the job finally. Will post updates soon!
Updates, updates, updates!
It's been a while! Hope all is well with everyone!
Finally in the beginning of December of last year, I decided to do the necessary work on the E420. And by necessary I mean the lower wiring harness job. The car needed a smog inspection this month, so I had to get it running right.
As I mentioned before, my voltage regulator was toast so I started by replacing that one first. I saw some DIYs online that said you could replace it without removing the alternator, but that wasn't possible in my case. There was no room for the black plastic cover to come off the rear. Anyways removing it wasn't hard at all.
Alternator removed.
New vs. Old voltage regulator.
Now back to the lower wiring harness. I tied a long speaker wire that I had laying around to the top end of the old harness and pulled it down.
Nasty old harness!
I bought the harness from Kurth Classics in Germany and used the existing fat positive cables & metal brackets from the old harness. Used 3M Super 33+ and wrapped them together.
End result.
Pulled the new wire up and connected everything up and started the car. It fired right up! Then I went and checked the voltage at the battery and it was within normal range!
Still no AC though! So I decided to remove the screws that hold the 15 amp fuse and see if it has a crack and it was cracked indeed! It looked so good and I couldn't even tell if it was cracked while in the car! Replaced that and AC works again!
The car needed new shoes. So initially I was planning to refinish the 8 hole 16s from my wife's R129 and use them, then I decided to do something else!
I got a good deal on a set of Maxilite Sador wheels. They're 8.25x17, same size and specs as EVO wheels and they dont look that bad in my opinion. For tire size I went with 225/45/17. So far so good! Definitely need to lower the car slightly and get AMG fender spacers.
I got a good deal on a set of Maxilite Sador wheels. They're 8.25x17, same size and specs as EVO wheels and they dont look that bad in my opinion. For tire size I went with 225/45/17. So far so good! Definitely need to lower the car slightly and get AMG fender spacers.
I forgot to post these here!
Jason Cammisa and Derek Tam-Scott had an informal get together to celebrate Bruno Sacco’s 90th bday in November in Berkeley. Here are some photos from the event. So many E500Es and a Nice E42 AMG!
Jason Cammisa and Derek Tam-Scott had an informal get together to celebrate Bruno Sacco’s 90th bday in November in Berkeley. Here are some photos from the event. So many E500Es and a Nice E42 AMG!
Attachments
The 500SL is out of hibernation!
First thing I notice was the antenna wouldn't go up. I mean I coud hear the motor, but nothing happens. I got a spare mast, so I was like if its the mast, I could replace it. The actual removal and installation method for the mast wouldn't work of course, because it won't come up when you turn the radio on. Then I noticed I could pull the mast without any resistance when radio is off. Nothing seems to be wrong with the old mast. Tried to put it back, but it wont bite the tooth, tried with the new mast and stil won't bite.
Anyone ever had this issue? What could be the problem. I'm thinking to take the whole assembly apart and see what's happening inside of it.
First thing I notice was the antenna wouldn't go up. I mean I coud hear the motor, but nothing happens. I got a spare mast, so I was like if its the mast, I could replace it. The actual removal and installation method for the mast wouldn't work of course, because it won't come up when you turn the radio on. Then I noticed I could pull the mast without any resistance when radio is off. Nothing seems to be wrong with the old mast. Tried to put it back, but it wont bite the tooth, tried with the new mast and stil won't bite.
Anyone ever had this issue? What could be the problem. I'm thinking to take the whole assembly apart and see what's happening inside of it.
Very common problem / failure mode. Sounds like one of the plastic gears inside has a broken tab. If so, you can fix this by replacing the plastic gears... either with good used ones from a junkyard, or buying new aftermarket/Chinese gears. I just did this on one of my cars a couple months ago...
Oh great, seems like an easy fix. I'll look into it! Thank you, sir!Very common problem / failure mode. Sounds like one of the plastic gears inside has a broken tab. If so, you can fix this by replacing the plastic gears... either with good used ones from a junkyard, or buying new aftermarket/Chinese gears. I just did this on one of my cars a couple months ago...
On that subject, what do you guys think of Kurth Classics's replacement options for Hirschmann Auta 6000EL antenna?
They actually offer two different ones:
Beru
Kurth Classics
They actually offer two different ones:
Beru
Kurth Classics
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Both of those are "universal" antennas and they WILL NOT fit like the OE/factory antenna. I would repair your existing one if possible. Next option is buying a used one (must be correct part number for your specific car/VIN).
Oh, I see! They're kinda of like the universal one that Hirschmann offers then. Hirschmann Auta 2050. Alright, I'll just repair the old one.
Hey guys! Hope all is well!
Did some work on the E420!
Swapped the LH module (got one with WOT enrichment)! I noticed a bit of gain at low RPM, but noticed it a lot at higher RPM, around 5-6k is the peak. So far, I love it!
Installed AMG fender spacers! Somehow I remember it was kinda easier on the 190E, even though 190E has more spacers. Or maybe I'm getting old!
Before:
After:
Did some work on the E420!
Swapped the LH module (got one with WOT enrichment)! I noticed a bit of gain at low RPM, but noticed it a lot at higher RPM, around 5-6k is the peak. So far, I love it!
Installed AMG fender spacers! Somehow I remember it was kinda easier on the 190E, even though 190E has more spacers. Or maybe I'm getting old!
Before:
After:
Send your other LH to @Alphasud40 to have the circuitry re-flowed with solder as needed and capacitors updated.
Hey guys! How's it going? I don't have much of an update for car related stuff, but my wife and I are expecting our first baby this December! Exciting times, and I'm super busy getting baby's room ready. At the same time I'm trying to finish up some car work, because I won't have time for a while to do anything after the baby comes.
Anyways, I have few questions for you guys.
Lets say hypothetically
, I install an AMG bodykit on the car. As for front bumper fog lights, I wasn't able to find anything on the web, related to the wiring for them.
I know there is a small wiring harness that connects the headlight to the fog light. So basically fog lights get their power from it.
This harness (202 540 21 07) is NLA, so I'm trying to see if anyone has extra ones that want to sell.
The harness:
The second option is to make my own harness.
To build this, I'll need 2x of the plastic sockets: 012 545 46 28 and some of the male to female bushing pins: 010 545 52 28 and some wiring.
The socket housing:
The pin:
The socket housing 012 545 46 28 is NLA. So I can kinda fake it and use a regular 4 pin socket housing or 6 pin one (if I plan to do Euro headlights at some point) and drill holes on the back of it and use male to female pins.
Now I need to know the pinout for the US headlight wiring (Standard w124 facelift), so I can figure out what wire is for the center fog lights, so I can use the same one for the bumper fog lights. Some say its the green wire, but I need confirmation. Thanks in advance!
My other question is about the chrome strips on the bumpers.
If I wanted to take them off and add them to the AMG bumpers, is there a method/template that is used to mark and make the holes on the new bumper? If not, I'll have to put the bumpers on top of each other and mark those holes on the new bumper, then make the holes.
Please advise, thank you!
***Photos added are from google.**
Anyways, I have few questions for you guys.
Lets say hypothetically
, I install an AMG bodykit on the car. As for front bumper fog lights, I wasn't able to find anything on the web, related to the wiring for them.I know there is a small wiring harness that connects the headlight to the fog light. So basically fog lights get their power from it.
This harness (202 540 21 07) is NLA, so I'm trying to see if anyone has extra ones that want to sell.
The harness:
The second option is to make my own harness.
To build this, I'll need 2x of the plastic sockets: 012 545 46 28 and some of the male to female bushing pins: 010 545 52 28 and some wiring.
The socket housing:
The pin:
The socket housing 012 545 46 28 is NLA. So I can kinda fake it and use a regular 4 pin socket housing or 6 pin one (if I plan to do Euro headlights at some point) and drill holes on the back of it and use male to female pins.
Now I need to know the pinout for the US headlight wiring (Standard w124 facelift), so I can figure out what wire is for the center fog lights, so I can use the same one for the bumper fog lights. Some say its the green wire, but I need confirmation. Thanks in advance!
My other question is about the chrome strips on the bumpers.
If I wanted to take them off and add them to the AMG bumpers, is there a method/template that is used to mark and make the holes on the new bumper? If not, I'll have to put the bumpers on top of each other and mark those holes on the new bumper, then make the holes.
Please advise, thank you!
***Photos added are from google.**
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When I'm attempting this sort of thing where no pattern is available, I'll put a dab of colored grease or paint on every peg and then carefully align the piece from above and lower it onto the base piece (bumper) which will leave grease marks as hole indicators.
Nice! I'll give that a try!
I was thinking of the same method as well, I've done it before.
That would be amazing if you got some! Please do let me know.
It's been many years since I looked at these lighting connectors so I'm not sure what you are needing. What I have are two six pin female connectors with pins and pigtails as well as 4 male pins (no connector).
I do have a W210 E55 parts car. I don't know if a similar connector was used on it. If so, I have them, but it may be a week or three before I could retrieve them.
I do have a W210 E55 parts car. I don't know if a similar connector was used on it. If so, I have them, but it may be a week or three before I could retrieve them.
Hey! Thank you for getting back to me. I have a feeling we're not talking about the same connector housings. I think what you have is a regular 6 pin housing with female pins. The housing I'm talking about is what is used in between the headlight and the regular 6 pin connector and the pins in there are female to male pins (like what I posted above), So the female side of it goes on the headlight pins and then the regulator 6 pin house goes on the male side of it.
Just to be sure, could you please post some photos of them?
And as far as W210, I don't think they use similar connectors and housings.
Thank you!
No worries!
Hey guys, so I want to switch some wires around in the headlight connector housing. I want the center fogs (on headlights) to come on with high beams as aux high beams, and use the wire previously used for center fogs to hook up the bumper fogs.
So according to my research, this is the U.S. headlight wiring pinout:
Pin 1 - Fog light (Gray/Green)
Pin 2 - Ground (Brown)
Pin 3 - High beam (White/Black)
Pin 4 - Low beam (Yellow/Black)
The new wiring pinout:
Pin 1 - Fog light (Gray/Green), desolder the pin and use the wire for bumper fogs.
Pin 2 - Ground (Brown), solder in an additional new wire for bumper fog or just jump it from the body.
Pin 3 - High beam (White/Black), jump a tiny wire to pin 1 inside the socket housing? I'm open to suggestions. Trying to avoid taking the headlight out to make the connections inside the headlights.
Pin 4 - Low beam (Yellow/Black)
What do you guys think?
So according to my research, this is the U.S. headlight wiring pinout:
Pin 1 - Fog light (Gray/Green)
Pin 2 - Ground (Brown)
Pin 3 - High beam (White/Black)
Pin 4 - Low beam (Yellow/Black)
The new wiring pinout:
Pin 1 - Fog light (Gray/Green), desolder the pin and use the wire for bumper fogs.
Pin 2 - Ground (Brown), solder in an additional new wire for bumper fog or just jump it from the body.
Pin 3 - High beam (White/Black), jump a tiny wire to pin 1 inside the socket housing? I'm open to suggestions. Trying to avoid taking the headlight out to make the connections inside the headlights.
Pin 4 - Low beam (Yellow/Black)
What do you guys think?
