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OWNER a777fan (E420)
- Thread starter a777fan
- Start date
That sucker was in there. Tried one last time with the easy out, and it locked up the drill. :|
Glad a certain ‘must have’ tool posting tipped me off on a deal on the Mil impact. Loving it so far.
I separated the halves. Ripped off the rock hard donuts and took some dirty pics... Bow chika wow wow!
The ETA gasket was fractured in two places
Pulled off the EGR pipe, which wasn’t as nasty as I thought it was going to be.
Cleaning time!
And the final result:
Left the EGR pipe to soak overnight
Also filled up the internals of the intake with the Simple Green. We’ll see how much junk I can get out.
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Glad a certain ‘must have’ tool posting tipped me off on a deal on the Mil impact. Loving it so far.
I separated the halves. Ripped off the rock hard donuts and took some dirty pics... Bow chika wow wow!
The ETA gasket was fractured in two places
Pulled off the EGR pipe, which wasn’t as nasty as I thought it was going to be.
Cleaning time!
And the final result:
Left the EGR pipe to soak overnight
Also filled up the internals of the intake with the Simple Green. We’ll see how much junk I can get out.
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Just glanced through the thread....if I was spending that much time with my car, I am sure wife would have packed up and left by now.
I barely got to redo the ignition system on the E320 last week. Good to have two W124s, one is always down
Yep. I am a lucky guy.
Also its hockey playoffs season right now, so the husband is otherwise occupied.
:I’d love to have this thing back on the road for the memorial day weekend. We’re taking a road trip down to Portland, and it would be a great ‘break-in’ cruise.
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A bit more time on my hands this morning, so I attacked the upper manifold.
Also took the throttle linkage off to clean it up. Caked on dirt everywhere
Lol, apparently only took photos of the bowden arm linkage.
With all the sliding linkages in that thing, I assume i should apply some grease upon reassembly?
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Also took the throttle linkage off to clean it up. Caked on dirt everywhere
Lol, apparently only took photos of the bowden arm linkage.
With all the sliding linkages in that thing, I assume i should apply some grease upon reassembly?
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More cleaning time today. I’m waiting for two big parts shipments which should be here Tuesday and Wednesday. It’s giving me some needed time to clean everything up as much as possible. I had left the EGR pipe to soak over night, and it came out great.
The slightly gunked pickup even came clean:
Then finished up the rest of the upper manifold and throttle linkage, which is where I left off yesterday.
I got most of the residual grease and dirt out of all of the linkage ball joints, and then re-lubed them upon re-assembly with this stuff
I wanted to avoid a thicker paste like grease to minimize dirt pickup, but if anyone has any better suggestions, please let me know. I also lubricated all of the pivot points with that stuff
I mounted the throttle clap trap back up. Is it not supposed to be perpendicular to the intake? Mine looks like its bent forward (towards the front of the car) slightly...
The lower half of the intake makes me think there was some sort of coolant leak in the passenger side rear corner.
That would explain at least some of the gunky bolts. I cleaned all that up as best I could, and then took a brass brush on the drill to clean out the bolt passageway.
Also found this little manufacturing mark near one of the bolt holes
Not sure if the milling machine initially hit in the wrong spot, or what.
Finished off the upper manifold by cleaning out the injector ports with a nylon brush on a drill, coated with simple green:
Clean as a whistle now!
Moved on to the injectors. All were just dusty and dirty. I have ordered new o-rings, so i wanted to get those off. Example photos from one of the eight.
Dirty:
Clean:
I did note that one of the injectors has a crack in the pintle cap:
Anyone see any concerns with this? I’m planning on using as is.
Polished up the fuel rail too
Power steering stuff was up next:
Dirty:
Clean:
Chased out the threads on the bracket bolts that go into the block. I think they had anerobic on em
Gotta love the original hose clamps, complete with MB star!
Attacked the rest of the engine bay plastics and miscellaneous parts.
Everything ready to go back in:
In my last remaining moments, I attacked the drivers side of the head & block.
Before:
After:
Still needs some work, but starting to get there!
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The slightly gunked pickup even came clean:
Then finished up the rest of the upper manifold and throttle linkage, which is where I left off yesterday.
I got most of the residual grease and dirt out of all of the linkage ball joints, and then re-lubed them upon re-assembly with this stuff
I wanted to avoid a thicker paste like grease to minimize dirt pickup, but if anyone has any better suggestions, please let me know. I also lubricated all of the pivot points with that stuff
I mounted the throttle clap trap back up. Is it not supposed to be perpendicular to the intake? Mine looks like its bent forward (towards the front of the car) slightly...
The lower half of the intake makes me think there was some sort of coolant leak in the passenger side rear corner.
That would explain at least some of the gunky bolts. I cleaned all that up as best I could, and then took a brass brush on the drill to clean out the bolt passageway.
Also found this little manufacturing mark near one of the bolt holes
Not sure if the milling machine initially hit in the wrong spot, or what.
Finished off the upper manifold by cleaning out the injector ports with a nylon brush on a drill, coated with simple green:
Clean as a whistle now!
Moved on to the injectors. All were just dusty and dirty. I have ordered new o-rings, so i wanted to get those off. Example photos from one of the eight.
Dirty:
Clean:
I did note that one of the injectors has a crack in the pintle cap:
Anyone see any concerns with this? I’m planning on using as is.
Polished up the fuel rail too
Power steering stuff was up next:
Dirty:
Clean:
Chased out the threads on the bracket bolts that go into the block. I think they had anerobic on em
Gotta love the original hose clamps, complete with MB star!
Attacked the rest of the engine bay plastics and miscellaneous parts.
Everything ready to go back in:
In my last remaining moments, I attacked the drivers side of the head & block.
Before:
After:
Still needs some work, but starting to get there!
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I am viewing these pictures with equal measures of envy and admiration. Envy for the copious amounts of time and superhuman abilities to resist matrimonial strife. Admiration for the level of persistence and determination to press on until the job is done 100% to your satisfaction. Well Done.
Holy crap. So. Uh, what do you charge to clean an entire intake assembly if I ship 'em to you?
hehe... thanks sir!
And for you, the first one is free.
I am viewing these pictures with equal measures of envy and admiration. Envy for the copious amounts of time and superhuman abilities to resist matrimonial strife. Admiration for the level of persistence and determination to press on until the job is done 100% to your satisfaction. Well Done.
Thanks very much! We keep a chalkboard by the door that records the number of garage hours spent, which needs to be updated whenever I come back in the house. The number translates directly into 'dinners out' which I end up paying for. :lol:
Wow – that’s very nice! Great job man, great to see such a clean intake! What did you use to clean the gunk off – that simple green stuff pictured?
For the injector with the cracked top I would buy 1x new (Or good used) to replace it.
Keep the updates coming this is great stuff
Wow – that’s very nice! Great job man, great to see such a clean intake! What did you use to clean the gunk off – that simple green stuff pictured?
For the injector with the cracked top I would buy 1x new (Or good used) to replace it.
Keep the updates coming this is great stuff
Thanks much Joe!!!
Guh... I just looked up the price of one new injector...
Yep, I like DarkCISide injectors, which are cheap but do wear out, LH injectors are very very expensive but fortunately don’t wear out with any frequency.
I do keep a set of LH injectors soaking in a jar of kerosene in case I ever do need them.....parts hoard thing.
Because crack pipe
I do keep a set of LH injectors soaking in a jar of kerosene in case I ever do need them.....parts hoard thing.
Because crack pipe
No need to buy a new injector. The plastic caps should be available separately (possibly via aftermarket, IIRC?).
Gerry, I'm not certain if keeping injectors submerged in any fluid is advisable. Did a reputable source suggest this? Any input from Klink or Jono?
Gerry, I'm not certain if keeping injectors submerged in any fluid is advisable. Did a reputable source suggest this? Any input from Klink or Jono?
Doh! Totally forgot to answer your question earlier Joe, sorry about that.
Yep, its ‘extreme’ simple green, which basically means its non-corrosive to aluminum, which regular simple green is. Meets all sorts of aviation specs and such.
Cleans stuff really well, especially if you’re not on a schedule and willing to let it soak. Its a little easier on the hands than carb/brake kleen too (i still wear gloves however). I get lazy and buy it off amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001VXU7OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OUJ-AbEYQC9YG
Some of the tougher spots were attacked with acetone. Typically does the number when the e-green runs outta gas. Dab some on, a little agitation, and boom, the stain is usually gone.
Large fine bristle art brush (which you can find cheaply on amazon) are great agitators. Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YDZO10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_h1J-Ab4Z3TP2W
Its kinda amazing how effective the small flexible bristles are at getting the junk out.
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Oh the insanity!
Box 1 from Tom cataloged and ready to install. One more from Tom, and one more from mboemparts tomorrow.
Had a few minutes of daylight to finish up the top of the drivers side.
The PS pump has this little date plate attached to the front:
And i can once again tell which kind of pump I have:
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Box 1 from Tom cataloged and ready to install. One more from Tom, and one more from mboemparts tomorrow.
Had a few minutes of daylight to finish up the top of the drivers side.
The PS pump has this little date plate attached to the front:
And i can once again tell which kind of pump I have:
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Since my days are no longer complete without updating this thread...
The mboemparts haul showed up today, and yes I did receive a lower radiator shroud:
And the remainder of my cooling system parts:
Finished up the passenger side upper front:
Didn’t know this was an anodized clip!
Then started kn the drivers side lower. Apologies but no ‘before’ shots.
This sucker still needs some work, but to give you an idea of the gunk, I thought it was painted black...
That power steering pump had to have been leaking for years.
I’ll probably give the drivers underside a little more love tomorrow, move on to the passenger side, and call the cleaning portion good.
Weeelllll maybe not. Just look at these gross valve covers!!!
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The mboemparts haul showed up today, and yes I did receive a lower radiator shroud:
And the remainder of my cooling system parts:
Finished up the passenger side upper front:
Didn’t know this was an anodized clip!
Then started kn the drivers side lower. Apologies but no ‘before’ shots.
This sucker still needs some work, but to give you an idea of the gunk, I thought it was painted black...
That power steering pump had to have been leaking for years.
I’ll probably give the drivers underside a little more love tomorrow, move on to the passenger side, and call the cleaning portion good.
Weeelllll maybe not. Just look at these gross valve covers!!!
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I’ve already buried it in a new section of garage floor.
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Nope. Not planning on it. They aren’t showing any signs of leaking. All oil coming from the top seems to be emanating from the magnets (on both sides non the less), which will be re-sealed with anaerobic.
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Very good. My thought was you are there, and look original (shadows make it hard to tell) so it was a matter of time — which could be 12 months or 12 years.
True. I did think about it, but i feel like I have already dug deep enough on this round. Easy enough to pull the caps and rotors off later if they start seeping.
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I agree. Over ~15 years and over a dozen different M119's, I've never had these seals leak. If you had the front head covers removed (for chain rail replacement), sure, it's easy enough on the workbench. But if they are dry and you're not going that far in, I'd let sleeping dogs lie...
LOL. Even on the workbench, it required some effort to get them seated squarely, at the proper depth. I'd be nervous attempting this on the car, although I know people have done it successfully. I only did it one time, on an engine where I had the head covers removed and figured I'd experiment for grins (they weren't leaking, but said engine had nearly 200k on the clock).
That being said, I have wondered a little about lowman’s theory that oil and/or moisture is coming through the seals in tiny quantities that we do not recognize as a leak but that may be contributing to the dreaded 119 distributor-itis.
I have 5 M119 engine cars that either I or close friends own. I am going to do them all pretty soon and see how they hold up. At least one of the cars definitely needs [to be] done, because I can see the obviously crookedly installed seal leaking away...
I have 5 M119 engine cars that either I or close friends own. I am going to do them all pretty soon and see how they hold up. At least one of the cars definitely needs [to be] done, because I can see the obviously crookedly installed seal leaking away...
This might make good reading for you. 'RE the magnet oil leak. I'd bet the leak is coming from the magnet themselves....
https://www.500eboard.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10318
The magnets are, by far, the most common oil leak at the upper / front of the engine. The tough part is after you re-seal the magnet, then find out it's leaking between the metal body halves and you need to either cut them apart to re-seal (per the excellent thread linked above), or replace with new. Had that happen [still leaking a bit after re-seal] a few times, years ago, before I figured out what was going on! Grrrrr.
Thanks Joe! Bah! Something else to add to the list!
I'll have to look at the magnets closely to see if I see any signs of seepage out of the seam or electrical connector.
Can anyone point me to an FSM description of how the adjustment solenoid works? I haven't seen this type of cam adjustment before...
The M119 FSM doesn't really explain how it works, but the magnet (solenoid) pulls an armature forward which is attached to the advance mechanism attached to the intake cam. The mechanism is pressurized by engine oil, and the oil pressure advances intake cam timing by 25° crank angle. The solenoid just pulls the armature out, which triggers the oil pressure to advance timing.
I think it may be covered in more detail in the M119 engine introduction manual, which is part of the 140-chassis intro manual. Or it might be in the R129 intro as the original system was used on the 119.960 (KE injection), with 20° CA.
Found it! See attached PDF, skip to printed page # 114:
There are so many loose (but bagged) parts floating around the garage, I thought I would make myself a little re-assembly list to try and stay organized.
Guhhhhhhh......
I am sure I am missing something, or some of these are might be out of order, or will be accomplished in some sort of parallel sequence. If you have any tips on the Order of Operations here, plz let me know!
(I'll be adding 'How-To' links to this list as I have time)
Finish cleaning lower engine exteriorRemove EZL and clean drivers side inner fender areaRe-apply thermal paste to EZL and re-install in new cleaned home500eboard HOW-TO- Flush Block &
Radiator Remove & clean valve coversClean Metal Oiler tubes & install new o-ringsInstall new oiler tubesReplace upper timing chain guides? (Don't currently have part!)- Re-install valve covers w/ new gaskets
Replace spark plugsTest EGR valve for correct functionalityRe-assemble Intake Manifold/ETA/EGR assembly, and rear lower manifold vacuum line- Replace all other vacuum lines and connections
- Install intake assembly w/ new intake mani gaskets
Re-assemble injectors with new O-rings, and replace broken pintle cap on injector #7.Install on fuel rail.- Re-install spark plug cable tray
- Investigate cam magnet leaking, re-install w/ anerobic and let dry
- Re-install ignition system components, insulators, rotors, caps etc, trim cover.
- Re-install spark plug wires
- Re-install fuel rail
- Install new thermostat 500eboard HOW-TO
- Install new coolant expansion tank and level sensor
- Install new cooling hoses
- Fill block & expansion tank with coolant per GSXR procedure
- Re-install engine upper wiring harness
- Re-install engine trim, airbox, intake tubes etc.
Guhhhhhhh......
I am sure I am missing something, or some of these are might be out of order, or will be accomplished in some sort of parallel sequence. If you have any tips on the Order of Operations here, plz let me know!
(I'll be adding 'How-To' links to this list as I have time)
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The M119 FSM doesn't really explain how it works, but the magnet (solenoid) pulls an armature forward which is attached to the advance mechanism attached to the intake cam. The mechanism is pressurized by engine oil, and the oil pressure advances intake cam timing by 25° crank angle. The solenoid just pulls the armature out, which triggers the oil pressure to advance timing.
I think it may be covered in more detail in the M119 engine introduction manual, which is part of the 140-chassis intro manual. Or it might be in the R129 intro as the original system was used on the 119.960 (KE injection), with 20° CA.
Found it! See attached PDF, skip to printed page # 114:
Thanks Dave! I love love love these old manuals.
I'd like to get my hands on paper copies at some point. (What can I say, I am nostalgic) Do you have luck with them on ebay?
It depends which manuals you are looking for, some are REALLY hard to find, others are pretty common. eBay is pretty much the only source. Note there was never a print M119 manual, btw... only microfiche (?) and the electronic stuff in the WIS / CD-ROM. If there's a particular manual you want, drop me a line, I have some duplicates I was planning to list on eBay eventually. Note that some of the print stuff commands silly money as they're all long OOP...
I think I’ve reached my limit of cleaning for this round. Got most of the lower half of the front done, and started working my way back down the underside. Its pretty clean down there now, but not stellar. I figure I’ll be back under there at some point to do the lower harness, and can attack it more then if need be.
Got the drivers side inner fender all cleaned up.
Before:
EZL off
I’ll have to take clean pictures tomorrow. I apparently forgot!
EZL on bench
The paste didn’t look too bad. I assume it must have been done at some point recently.
It cleaned up pretty well
Apparently did not buy enough thermal paste!!
More should be here Saturday
With that dead end, i decided to flush the radiator. No pics. Just ran the hose till the fluid draining was clear. I’ll flush the block after I have the intake back o n.
I decided to pop the valve covers. Pretty clean!
All tucked in for the night.
How does this front guide look?
I don’t see anything obvious.
Finished up the night with starting to soak the metal oiler tubes. Cut the old o-rings off and gave em a nice little soak.
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Got the drivers side inner fender all cleaned up.
Before:
EZL off
I’ll have to take clean pictures tomorrow. I apparently forgot!
EZL on bench
The paste didn’t look too bad. I assume it must have been done at some point recently.
It cleaned up pretty well
Apparently did not buy enough thermal paste!!
More should be here Saturday
With that dead end, i decided to flush the radiator. No pics. Just ran the hose till the fluid draining was clear. I’ll flush the block after I have the intake back o n.
I decided to pop the valve covers. Pretty clean!
All tucked in for the night.
How does this front guide look?
I don’t see anything obvious.
Finished up the night with starting to soak the metal oiler tubes. Cut the old o-rings off and gave em a nice little soak.
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Looking good! Regarding the heat sink paste - less is more in that application. The paste is there simply to fill any small air gaps between the inner fender steel and the EZL. Too much paste will actually act as an insulator. I would apply a very fine layer of it.
The upper / center chain rail guides look fine. However! They can look perfect, until you try to remove them... that's when you find out if they are OK or not. The plastic "fingers" should flex easily and allow removal intact. Usually what happens is, the fingers snap off because the plastic is fossilized. The fingered clips are cheap ($10 each or something?) and I would replace them while you're in there. Generally no need to replace the main plastic piece the fingers clip on to. Be careful, if the top fingers snap off, the 2 bottom fingers can break and fall into the engine... extraction can be a chore. It's probably difficult to see, but use a flashlight and eyeball the inner guides below the intake adjusters, make sure the tops & bottoms are still present.
Your engine looks unusually clean inside, btw. The PO's must have either used synthetic, or changed dino religiously. Given the complete lack of the typical brown varnish, I'm suspecting synthetic. Either way, that is a nice surprise!
Your engine looks unusually clean inside, btw. The PO's must have either used synthetic, or changed dino religiously. Given the complete lack of the typical brown varnish, I'm suspecting synthetic. Either way, that is a nice surprise!
Thanks Joe. I will make sure I continue to spread the layer thiiiiin.
